Degreeing a Cam

StarDiero75

StarDiero75

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Howdy guys,

So I finally got my 256H Schneider cam and lifters! According to the papers Schneider sent, i need to run their additives in with the oil, is there any real benefit to it or am i fine without it? Anyhow, next up is the double roller timing set from VI. Then I'll be all set and ready to start disassembly and measure what my actual displacement is so i can mill the head.

But heres the question, how do i degree a cam and what do i need to do it? This will be in the car with the obvious parts removed so i can get the cam in and out. Also, do I need to do cam bearings, or should it be fine? I feel like to do cam bearings i need to remove the engine or have the oil pan off, which is going to be a little more than I'd like to do.

Thanks,
Ryan
 
The bearings should be fine. You definitely want to use the additives when you break in the cam. And smear it all up with the paste they sent you along with the bottom of the lifters. There are alot of videos and write ups on how to degree a cam. You'll need to fab up a piston stop to find true tdc and you'll need a dial indicator with a magnetic base. I like to start by using the centerline method to see how close you are then do the .050" events.

If you go to this website and put in your cam specs you can print a degree wheel with your cams events highlighted:
https://www.blocklayer.com/degree-wheel.aspx
 
Hi, watch the Echo video, it is linked right here in the right hear in the Small Block section. He makes it easy to learn how to degree the cam.
X2 on the Piston stop.
I used a big long bolt I stuck in an old lifter to contact the dial indicator. I had to grind off the side of the bolt to clear the block. It was nice and solid so l got good readings from the dial indicator.
You can eyeball the cam bearings and look for wear and damage. Any serious scratches or any copper and they will need to be replaced.
And X2 on the assembly line and the zinc additive of your choice.
Good luck
 
Do not forget to pull the pin on the old cam and remove the cam spacer...The cam spacer cannot be bought, the pin can be...The new cam will not be provided with these....Install the cam spacer with the inside bevel toward the cam journal.
Degree cam before installing the head.
 
I watched his video, i hope I can recreate the same thing. I gotta get a dial indicator and dial wheel.

Also, so here are my cam specs

Part Number: 13720
Grind Number: 256H
Intake Duration (gross): 256
Exhaust Duration (gross): 256
Intake Duration (.050”): 204
Exhaust Duration (.050”): 204
Intake Valve Lift*: .420"
Exhaust Valve Lift*: .420"
Lobe Separation: 112
Intake Valve Lash: .000"
Exhaust Valve Lash: .000"
RPM Range:
1250-4500
*Based on 1.5 Rocker Arm Ratio

I talked with Jerry and I said I wanted a little more torque down low since its a daily not a racer. He said 4° advance the cam, would you all do it straight up or advance it? I got a T5 and an 8" behind it.
T5- 1st 4.03, 2nd 2.5, 3rd 1.5, 4th 1, 5th .81
8" is a 2.8 but will become a 3.25

Lemme know,
Ryan
 
"...He said 4° advance the cam, would you all do it straight up or..."
that's Y I degree the cam - to tell me.
Some have advance ground in, all ways degree a cam @ instal, every 1 (read #s as U go)...
(y)
 
Based on my experience, I'd first install straight up and see exactly where it was ground. They are never spot on. Then decide how you get to your desired advance. I my case it was ground "straight up" so I installed straight up but it degreed to +3.5. So I left it there.

Though mine was a Clay Smith, ymmv. I did talk to them after my install, they told me they are never spot on and I did the right thing.

StarDiero75":8zk43rj6 said:
I watched his video, i hope I can recreate the same thing. I gotta get a dial indicator and dial wheel.

Also, so here are my cam specs

Part Number: 13720
Grind Number: 256H
Intake Duration (gross): 256
Exhaust Duration (gross): 256
Intake Duration (.050”): 204
Exhaust Duration (.050”): 204
Intake Valve Lift*: .420"
Exhaust Valve Lift*: .420"
Lobe Separation: 112
Intake Valve Lash: .000"
Exhaust Valve Lash: .000"
RPM Range:
1250-4500
*Based on 1.5 Rocker Arm Ratio

I talked with Jerry and I said I wanted a little more torque down low since its a daily not a racer. He said 4° advance the cam, would you all do it straight up or advance it? I got a T5 and an 8" behind it.
T5- 1st 4.03, 2nd 2.5, 3rd 1.5, 4th 1, 5th .81
8" is a 2.8 but will become a 3.25

Lemme know,
Ryan
Click to expand...
 
Schneider cams have 2 degrees advance ground in. If you look at your cam card below the LSA it will state the intake centerline as 110. So if you degree it with an intake centerline @ 108, it will have 4 degrees instead of 2. Like said above I'd use centerline method first and see how close it is to 110. It won't hurt to install it with 4 degrees adv. When I installed a schneider cam in my 250 in came in just over 3 degrees advanced when installed "straight up". If you find it's where you like it, then check that the events are correct. It's like belt and suspenders.

https://www.camcraftcams.com/degreeing-a-cam/
 
Econoline":17t73cwb said:
Schneider cams have 2 degrees advance ground in. If you look at your cam card below the LSA it will state the intake centerline as 110. So if you degree it with an intake centerline @ 108, it will have 4 degrees instead of 2. Like said above I'd use centerline method first and see how close it is to 110. It won't hurt to install it with 4 degrees adv. When I installed a schneider cam in my 250 in came in just over 3 degrees advanced when installed "straight up". If you find it's where you like it, then check that the events are correct. It's like belt and suspenders.

https://www.camcraftcams.com/degreeing-a-cam/
Click to expand...
Ok, I'm definitely going to degree the cam to see where it is. I guess what I was getting at is, how much cam advance should I have? I'm getting the adjustable timing set from VI so I can adjust it. Is 4° a good number to have it close to?
 
Yes 4 degree advance usally works very well for street use. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
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