ID on engine

Phil wells

Active member
I brought what i thought was a 200ci engine from a guy that removed it from his 67 mustang, looking at the numbers, they don't seem to The numbers on head D7BE8080AB above that looks like 7F13 on the block its D8BE underneath 6015 GD . it has a hayes ignition and 1940 holly by the looks of it

On the dizzyy side towards the bellhousing ther are some other numbers (8G13T) 8 ( K252625 ) a 2 on its own and 7212 these look a bit like they have been stamped on

what would this date as?

I have posted photos in the link below





 
I will confirm with my Handbook when I get home but I believe the head is a 1977 (good) and the block is a 1978, good also as far as I know because you can go with DSII distributor and a good non scv carb. Autolite 1101 or 2100, Carter BBD and Chinese large 1v for cheap on the Ebay is what I would look into. The Weber is a fascinating performance carb but as I understand somewhat difficult to set up.
 
Phil wells":30gl68kk said:
I brought what i thought was a 200ci engine from a guy that removed it from his 67 mustang, looking at the numbers, they don't seem to The numbers on head D7BE8080AB above that looks like 7F13 on the block its D8BE underneath 6015 GD . it has a hayes ignition and 1940 holly by the looks of it

On the dizzyy side towards the bellhousing ther are some other numbers (8G13T) 8 ( K252625 ) a 2 on its own and 7212 these look a bit like they have been stamped on

what would this date as? ]

The head was cast at the Ford Engine Foundry on June 13, 1977 if the head is orginal to the block which is a 1978 design number (I would need it's date code to determine that). But if I had to guess I would lean that direction this would make the engine an early production 200 for a 1978 Ford Fairmont. That is one of the better 200 / 250 six heads it will have 1 3/4 inch intake valves, large intake log and ports, it's designed to run on unleaded fuel, and it has the larger 1 3/4 inch opening on then carb mounting base so it will accept the later larger bore carb's. All 200 and 250 six'es built from 1975 to end of production had the excellent DuraSpark II Distribitor and ignistion system this was the best system that Ford put on these small six'es. The distributor was obviously changed to a 1967 point type with duel advance this was probably orginal to the 1967 Mustang (is good for a point system the Hayes would make it a little better). The carb is an early version of the Holley 1940 in your above picture it looks to have a SCV on it this would be a miss match in parts and should for sure be changed out. Looks like you got some of the best and most sot after parts like that head. :beer: a great score! Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Thanks Bubba

Great knowledge on these sixes, I did wonder if that was an scv carb, could you point me in the right direction to order a correct carb to match it . Been looking on rock auto site , they have various carbs on there under different years. Would prefer a manual choke as the there is already a cable in the ranchero
 
Hi Phil, looks like I made quite a bad mistake on the ID of the Distribitor, in looking at it again on a larger computer screen have determined that it is indeed one of the great DuraSpark II units, it might then be orginal to the 1978 engine block! Looks like someone has used an earlier 1967 to 1975 style rotor and cap on it. The Hayes box was then used in place of the factory DuraSpark II ICM. The DuraSpark II Distribitor is another great part score for use in your combo :beer: .

If you want to look for the block date code we can finish up if there is a tie in to the head. It often looks like a small raised metal tag with a screw head on each end, like the heads date code it will have a number, a letter, and one or two more numbers.

A Carter carb off a 1976 or 1977 Ford Maverick or Mercury Comet or 1978 Fairmont could work well. Though these late carb's are all of the Auto Choke type yet since you have a 1978 engine they would bolt right onto the carb mounting base of the log intake, the Auto Choke is simple and would work great. I will see if I can think of a manual choke combo or maybe someone else might know of a good large bore 1V carb with a manual choke. Good luck (y) :nod: Edited
 
Looks like someone was running a pre 68 carb on it with that adapter and the extra holes.
 
Phil,
looks like you made out quite well on that 200.
For ease of operation and parts,I have usually opted for the carter YFA but with a homemade adapter to avoid the trapeze-style linkage.
Manual choke adapters can be found on Ebay,amazon from $5 up to $25.Simple work.
I wish you luck on the clean up of the smog exhaust stuff.Go slow,use heat and sprays and don't crack anything.
have fun with it.
 
Did U get the Handbook yet? Read !
U may C the top row of Ltrs/numbers near (behind) dwn tube of exhaust begining D7xx (or 8xx).
the head may say same "D?xx-
C='60s, D=70s. The nxt Number is yr of that decade...

the best carb may B a 2100/direct mount depending on what U wanna do...
Every automotive Q is answ by the APPLICATION question.
The auto is a system, any thing U do to 1 prt effects all the others. FIRST figure driving conditions
2 lane black top, twisties, mall crawl, strip, track, drag, etc - ie 80% of the operating RPMs
Octane'n cam R next...
 
Thanks for the info, sorry for the time delay, I'm generally in bed by the time I read replies. So it seems I did ok with the engine being a later one with the better dizzy, shame about the carb having the scv, i wonder how it ran in the 1967 mustang with the auto it came out of.

I haven't got the book yet Chad as it's out of stock.

Bubba, here are the engine date numbers requested, looks like 8D86 hard to see, there is also a circle with 18576 in. So is this still a 200 from the details given or could it be a 250? I'm thinking the carter will be the easiest and cheapest option at the moment to get it up and running. I'm not familiar with electric chokes and how they switch on and of, looks like one wire feed going in, where would you route this from? also looks like two vacuum lines, one at the top, and one at the bottom, i take it the top one goes to dizzy, what is the bottom one for. I have attached a photo of one i found on eBay. Does this one look correct. I also found a few autolite 1101 that bmbm advised could be used but they look like they have scv on them and are upto 69, will this work with the engine and dizzy i have, see photo of the one i found. Another one listed on ebay for a 78 ford faimount (type: C1; Carb Model: YFA)





 
Hi Phil, having a mismatched carb and Distribitor is quite common on these Ford six'es and other early Ford V8 engines before 1957 too. The SCV carb's will work with the late style Distribitors since they are a duel advance type, but it's just not optimal for economy or engine performance as it won't operate the vacuum advance system correctly. Far worse is when people try to use the newer carb's with one of the old style LOM Distribitors, so many just don't understand how the Ford Load O Matic vaccum advance system works.

On the a Date Code last two numbers (day code) something is wrong it can't be 86 but it might be 16 or 26, can't make it out either. For the first part this decodes as April 16 or 26, 1978. In any case the range is much to far from the heads date code to be be orginal to each other. This only means the head was changed and is likely from a 1977 Maverick or Mercury Comet (or other 1977 models used this same part). The heads Design Code / Casting Code Numbers decode as being designed for a Maverick the date code shows it was near end of production for 1977 models, essentially there is no difference in a 200 or 250 head of this vintage. The block is likely from a 1978 Ford Fairmont or Mercury Zephyr the Design Code / Casting Code Number decode as the block being made for a Fairmont (or other 1978 models also used the same block) as noted before these are excellent parts both for stock use or for a moded perforance type build.

The Autolites 1100 / 1101 are a favorite carb of mine but it's hard to find one without the SCV basically the big bore Autolite is a one year only carb that was used on the 1969 250 if you can find one that would work great. A 1968 1100 off a 200 could also work but like the other finding good Autolites is getting hard. An advantage is that they can give slightly better economy and the carb linkage is slightly easier to hook up in your 1960. Otherwise the Cater YFA is an excellent carb choice I have used them on many cars and trucks two 1975's and a 1977 Mavericks all of them were on the 250' six engines, I have also used them on some 300 big six'es hard to beat their great performance. The bottom tube in the base plate is for the Distribitor vaccum advance, the upper tube is hooked up to the air cleaner on the 1970's cars you could cap it off if you don't happen to have a late model style AC. The stock Ford electric choke is easy the wire just hooks up to the Stater (S) post of the Alternator.

Both of the 200's and 250's will have 5 freeze plugs on the side of the block! A quick way to tell a 200 six from a 250 is to count the water pump mounting bolts all 200's, 170's or 144's engines will have three mounting bolts, the 250's will have four mounting bolts. 250's also have a much higher deck height then the 200 and smaller engines, and all 250's have the 6 bolt bell housing as a SBF V8 ie like a 302 351. Good luck :nod: (y) Edited
 
Brillant, thanks buba, had another look , pretty sure its 26 on the end, the water pump has three bolt holes so its a 200.
thanks for all your help pointing me in the right direction. :)
 
just searching for carbs. your right struggling to cant find a 1101 without scv found this AUTOLINE C844that says its for a 1969 250ci fairlane, what are your thoughts on these as an option?
 
It looks right in the picture, but wish I could see the other side to be sure there's no SCV. I like the Autolites a lot and that application could work good for you if it doesn't have a SCV. Sometimes the parts stores have the wrong picture on their parts listings. With a little reworking and welding of the AC base you can get the stock air cleaner from a 1960 to 1966 to fit on them too. Then if you also wanted to stealthily paint the engine in the orginal 1960 144 engine colors only an expert would know that it's a later model 200 engine, see below link if your looking for info on orginal engine colors. (y) :nod:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=80022#p622569
 
"...what are your thoughts on these as an option?..."
U may not want MY answ:

good 4 U, keep up ur 'Handbook' search...it answ all these Q U have been askin, the 'tech archive' above too, if U would just skim the whole thing...

Last, rather than 'buy stuff', after some good research/understanding U answ the APPLICATION Q...U will know where U R going, "What end product U want". This is not a "knuckle dragin" endeavor (I like the way "Click'n Clack" wrded that 40 yrs ago on the radio) but a fairly technical, scientific, learned practice and one that requires systemic thinking...

[for some1 like me - its perfect. Some 1 who is systemic oriented, up in their head planning, researchin, learnin, designing...poor or 'lacking financial wealth'. Saving money'n dumping periodically on nice prts. Is a lill crafty/handy (altho a desk job man 30, 40 yrs - built houses the 15 yrs B4 that). Have been a garage rat or car guy 50 yrs...]

Insteada grabin a carb (need bolt spacing, CFM, it's jet sizes, etc) answ the Q "What will B 80% of the RPM during drivin B?" use, application, conditions...
 
Phil wells":18fh9tx6 said:
just searching for carbs. your right struggling to cant find a 1101 without scv found this AUTOLINE C844that says its for a 1969 250ci fairlane, what are your thoughts on these as an option?

It doesn't matter if it has the SCV or not, unless your Distributor is a Load-O-Matic and needs it.

If a carb has a SCV, just plug the vacuum port on the carb, then hook the Distributor to manifold vacuum and be done!
 
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