Is This A Crazy Idea?

"Crazy idea?"not getting ur idea.
It is a side draft carb, not dwn draft, the IDF 'flows' @ an incredable rate
so would need more than just attaching (horozontal, not verticle)...
/OR/
short answ: "Depends"
/and/
"No. some have done it"
(Out intake & motor R close to the shock tower so need some adjustments there)
look to #35 post in this thread
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=75335
 
Georgia200":3srp1mdo said:
Mill a large log head flat, removing as little material as possible.

Fabricate a 1/2in thick plate wide enough to accept the carb base.

Bolt the plate to the log.

Drill the plate to accept three of these: $85 on Amazon, $73 on ebay.

https://www.amazon.com/KIPA-Carburetor- ... 9&sr=8-159

The 40 IDF carb's are downdraft carb's and are made for use usally on a IR (independate runner) manifold i.e. One barel of the carb for each port. I don't know how well they work on a plentum type manifold such as you are plaining, I have never tried it but have tuned lots of them on IR intakes. You could also use them on a head that had the log cut off with a made up tubing IR intake with the mounting flanges to fit the carb bases which should workout good. The Weber IDF carb's are excellent and very tunable. Good luck (y) :nod:

Triple Weber IDF's with an IR manifold on a Ford Small Six
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rTXakWIgyk0

As a comparison here is a 300 Ford with Weber DCOE (side draught) carb's
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wK1F5UI7WgU
 
o0OPPp, I got 'em mixed up. It is a down draft, looks like a side.
In that case - look out for hood clearence (even w/the plate/head mill...
 
Georgia200":1u3eys4i said:
Mill a large log head flat, removing as little material as possible.

Fabricate a 1/2in thick plate wide enough to accept the carb base.

Bolt the plate to the log.

Drill the plate to accept three of these: $85 on Amazon, $73 on ebay.

https://www.amazon.com/KIPA-Carburetor- ... 9&sr=8-159

your idea can be made to work, but you have some issues to overcome. the first is hood clearance. these are tall carbs to begin with, and that is before adding the air horns, and putting them atop a 1/2" thick spacer doesnt help. so be aware of that.

second, they can be made to work with a plenum, but the tuning is going to be a nightmare as you wont have consistent A/F control, though it will be more consistent than the stock one barrel.

third is going to be the issue of fuel stand off. this is where at certain rpm ranges fuel tends to collect in "clouds" just above the air horns. usually at low rpms due to the high velocity the carbs generate coupled with the sharp turns required due to the packaging the fuel "bounces" back through the carb and forms the afore mentioned cloud. and that cloud of fuel will cause havoc in getting the fuel mixtures right.

dont get me wrong, i love the weber style carbs, but they have issues you have to deal with.

for your application, here are three carbs i recommend instead, and using two instead of three carbs;

https://www.amazon.com/ALAVENTE-Carbure ... ljaz10cnVl

this is the venerable old 2100 autolite carb. solid and reliable and simple. it works well on a plenum style intake, and two of them would do wonders for the small six, and they are easy to tune, even with two of them on a log intake.

https://www.amazon.com/KIPA-Carburetor- ... ljaz10cnVl

this carb is similar to the 32/36 weber carb, and if you want three carbs, this would be the one i recommend, and the one i am considering for my falcon. these are progressive carbs so you get small barrels for normal day to day operation, but then open up the larger barrels for some real performance. again these work nicely on a plenum.

https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Roche ... 10&sr=8-13

this carb was put on millions of small block chevy and other GM engines. again it is a solid reliable and simple carb that just flat works, like the 2100 autolite. again easy to tune even with two of them, and they work well on a plenum intake. two of these would do the job nicely as well. and like the autolite carb, parts are readily available including rebuild kits for when that time comes. this one, like the second carb i recommended, is compact enough that it might just fit under the hood even with a 1/2" spacer.
 
Ive got a couple rebuildable 2100s. One off a 352, the other off a 289.

I also have a new ebay 2100 that I was going to put on my 289 but put an aluminum manifold and 4v on instead.

My plan is to put a 1v on first so I can get it on the road, then build my other C9 head or build a large log head. theres a head on a Fairmont in the JY that i can pick up pretty cheap if I go pull it.
 
Is This A Crazy Idea?
Mill a large log head flat, removing as little material as possible... Fabricate a 1/2in thick plate wide enough to accept the carb base. ...Bolt the plate to the log. .... Drill the plate to accept three of these: $85 on Amazon, $73 on eb


"... great minds, think '

... 'considering many different ideas for LOG manifold intakes and that's unique, I've considered attempting (mostly) what you describe . BOLTING a plate or Plenum to a horizontally sliced LOG intake would remove the complexity of welding or bonding to rapidly/repeated heat expansion-contraction of hot intake area. The sliced log would be the bottom of plenum cavity and intake for NA or FI could be implemented.

Have ideas '

... one iteration of the Tri-power 250, I used a 2" X 4" Plenum with a large Holley 2Bbl on the LOGs 3 ports . It ran much smoother than the Progressive 3X1 Holleys and would idle consistently (for a change). After a few Test&Tunes revealed it was easier tuning but not faster ...

. .
 
If you are going to go the direct mount route.
First you strip the head of all valves.
Have it magnafluxed for cracks.
To properly braze the low spots on the log, the head should be preheated to 400 F. Then fill in all the low spots.
After the head cools have it magnafluxed again for cracks.
Then mill the log with as much forward angle so the future carb is level.
Then install the hardened exhaust valve seats & have a complete valve job done.
You may have to angle surface the spacer to have the carb level.
dMZJ08e.jpg

I would not recommend heating a completed head for brazing, cause any previous valve seat work done might be wasted.
Then mill the head to get the proper chamber cc's you want.
For a carb, i would go the Autolite 2100 or a Holley 7448-350 on a small engine or a 4412-500 on a big engine.
Even the above carbs need to be checked with a wideband A/F tester to fine tune.
 
rbohm":38mozr2l said:
...
https://www.amazon.com/KIPA-Carburetor- ... ljaz10cnVl

this carb is similar to the 32/36 weber carb, and if you want three carbs, this would be the one i recommend, and the one i am considering for my falcon. these are progressive carbs so you get small barrels for normal day to day operation, but then open up the larger barrels for some real performance. again these work nicely on a plenum.
...

rbohm, that carb looks interesting! You got any info on tuning one for a Ford?
 
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