My 200 Project

It wouldn't change first much between 3.25 and 3.5 but I agree having 4.03 1st and, more importantly, only .81 5th is somewhat limiting. Especially if you want to cruise 70 for long drives. Sounds like you've got it figured out. 3.25 will definately be a noticeable improvement over 2.8. (y)
 
My advice is stay 2.83 axle till you know the 17 inch wheels are a functional thing...its hard to fit 17s on Cheros due to geometery and rear axle to gaurd clearance, so its just another unknown.

Tune the air fuel with a wide band header bung, and fit a heat shield under the carb and get the EGR hole blanked off real good. Get the ignition and hot fuel handling issues taken care of first
 
"...awide band header bung..."
Up that hi? Not down past the 2 collectors in the "hook ups"? ( the two 3-inta-2s).
Or as in Oz lingo put it in the "pipes" ?
 
StarDiero75":37j1sp7c said:
By the way, i got the exhaust put on, and man, does it sound mean. 2" with an H pipe and flowmaster 40s.
Click to expand...

Did you take it to a shop for a custom job or did you purchase a kit?

-Shawn
 
65_Stang_170":7pthyubv said:
StarDiero75":7pthyubv said:
By the way, i got the exhaust put on, and man, does it sound mean. 2" with an H pipe and flowmaster 40s.
Click to expand...

Did you take it to a shop for a custom job or did you purchase a kit?

-Shawn
Click to expand...
I had it custom made at a shop. He modified the down pipes the VI headers came with and installed the O2 sensor on there for the AFR gauge. $550+tax. I didn't think that was too bad
 
xctasy":d9dummau said:
My advice is stay 2.83 axle till you know the 17 inch wheels are a functional thing...its hard to fit 17s on Cheros due to geometery and rear axle to gaurd clearance, so its just another unknown.

Tune the air fuel with a wide band header bung, and fit a heat shield under the carb and get the EGR hole blanked off real good. Get the ignition and hot fuel handling issues taken care of first
Click to expand...
After talking with my buddy, i may just do 15s. The 15s will look more period too.

I'll consider the heat shield, i totally never thought of that.

I'm pretty sure the EGR is blocked good. At this point, since I've sprayed a lot of starter fluid around it and never noticed a prob i think its alright.
 
"...I'll consider the heat shield..."
I'm at that right now. 1/8th sheet alu lies around the shop (more labor intensive).

Has any1 seen that 'corrugated" very thin, hand bendable alu sheets available? I
C it in large sheets under USA & Jap cars at the cat & other exhaust areas...

Thanks
(y)
 
Might find a good heat shield off something at picnpul that can be customized a bit for your use.
 
bmbm40":2cds88th said:
find a good heat shield off something at picnpul
Click to expand...
that possibility disappeared yrs ago.

Here a junk yard is not that anymore. It is like an open air library or wearhouse. Everything stacked sorted organized catalogued & ina puter. The rows'n isles have #s/ltrs scrawled on end posts (like rd signs I guess).

Every thing 10 yrs or older, gone, crushed. U wanna a part? they deliver (from their own yrd or some1 else) or U wait ina office
for an hr. No 'walk thru the yrd' (too many pilfers/robs?, too many suits?) these daze.

My best bet is: 1) here w/the Q I asked; or 2) Y/M/M cross ref. (I got late '90s early 21st cent Subie as a guess due to what comes thru the shop here). And 3) ol stand by - after mrkt raw supply, universal fit, DIY.

Bronk bros use 1/2 - 1 inch coupling nuts'n the alu sheets I mentioned. There's a paint on product heat shield for restorers like us. If it is rust inhibitive too I might add it. I think it needs a proprietary top coat (all needs a gun and is expensive I'm sure). I need minimum I don't think the fire wall/transmis tunnel needs it but certainly the pass fl bds do. The proposed exhaust (the last CI headers Will had fit a bronk w/a lill massage - that wuz a Q many had) will B close'n short (headers, collectors, hook ups to Y, miniature muff, out either thru rocker or just infrnt of pass tire. System needs 'tucked up' for off rd. All stainless except muff as of now. That is a 12x2X4 (can it B that sm?) "free from closing/bankrupt Midas" aluminized turbo I saw hang frm the celling retail model each time I delivered prts. I wuz a Zoner for 5 yrs.

This may leave off the carb shield tho - is where I saw the 'corrugated hand malleable sheets' the OZ or Argie guy had big sheets almost like inner fenders, in a 100% racer. Wouldn't a 12 X 12 (or 18) inch sheet B nice? (Nother long screed but HTH Ryan).
 
chad":1yop0ktf said:
bmbm40":1yop0ktf said:
find a good heat shield off something at picnpul
Click to expand...
that possibility disappeared yrs ago.

Here a junk yard is not that anymore. It is like an open air library or wearhouse. Everything stacked sorted organized catalogued & ina puter. The rows'n isles have #s/ltrs scrawled on end posts (like rd signs I guess).

Every thing 10 yrs or older, gone, crushed. U wanna a part? they deliver (from their own yrd or some1 else) or U wait ina office
for an hr. No 'walk thru the yrd' (too many pilfers/robs?, too many suits?) these daze.

My best bet is: 1) here w/the Q I asked; or 2) Y/M/M cross ref. (I got late '90s early 21st cent Subie as a guess due to what comes thru the shop here). And 3) ol stand by - after mrkt raw supply, universal fit, DIY.

Bronk bros use 1/2 - 1 inch coupling nuts'n the alu sheets I mentioned. There's a paint on product heat shield for restorers like us. If it is rust inhibitive too I might add it. I think it needs a proprietary top coat (all needs a gun and is expensive I'm sure). I need minimum I don't think the fire wall/transmis tunnel needs it but certainly the pass fl bds do. The proposed exhaust (the last CI headers Will had fit a bronk w/a lill massage - that wuz a Q many had) will B close'n short (headers, collectors, hook ups to Y, miniature muff, out either thru rocker or just infrnt of pass tire. System needs 'tucked up' for off rd. All stainless except muff as of now. That is a 12x2X4 (can it B that sm?) "free from closing/bankrupt Midas" aluminized turbo I saw hang frm the celling retail model each time I delivered prts. I wuz a Zoner for 5 yrs.

This may leave off the carb shield tho - is where I saw the 'corrugated hand malleable sheets' the OZ or Argie guy had big sheets almost like inner fenders, in a 100% racer. Wouldn't a 12 X 12 (or 18) inch sheet B nice? (Nother long screed but HTH Ryan).
Click to expand...
AMEN brother. My yards are crap, they became crap. They overcharge and underdeliver.

I will look at getting some thin sheet next time im in lowes. I could make it looks nice, paint it black. Only 3 colors allowed in my engine bay, black, Ford Dark Blue, and chrome. Very minimal chrome/shiny metal. Its gaudy to me.
 
Also, i did find a vacuum leak. Back part of the EGR block off. I ripped the hole for the bolt on the outside part and figured it wouldn't matter, i guess so. I'll be fixing that tomorrow. I thought i had hit that area with starter fluid but i guess not. Its very small but its big enough to react a little to the starter fluid
 
"...thin sheet next time im in lowes..."
not much of a consumer. That place is near here (acc from Home Depot).
What paint will you use?
Have U actually seen the sheets there?
:unsure::
Thnx!
Stay Safe'n Sane
 
Bummer dude.
In Texas and northern NV still have picnpul and other yards similar to yards in the past.
 
bmbm40":1c2tvvqz said:
Bummer dude.
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Urbanization, man. That'n the 21st Century.

There's a megalopolis (tru dat. look'em up - google) Portland, ME to Jacksonville, FL (well, way beyond the now, I'm sure).
Just go down to Dallas, it's not called that anymore - its D/FW.
Las Vegas is now henderson-vegas-red rocks-paradise, etc.
Same idea & when they get there look out.
We're 2 hrs frm all that BS but they're all wunTAh`bees which produces my problem~

'S where U got ur speach use "dude" & "bummer" from, no? Culcha
:nod:
 
chad":jbjar4iq said:
"...thin sheet next time im in lowes..."
not much of a consumer. That place is near here (acc from Home Depot).
What paint will you use?
Have U actually seen the sheets there?
:unsure::
Thnx!
Stay Safe'n Sane
Click to expand...
I'll probably use a rustoleum black. Maybe high heat just in case but normal should be ok. Should it block most of the headers on the side from the top? Or just the area under the carb?
 
my mind prescribes an inverted type of U, 360*.

I think even ddown btwn the small crack between the head/vc, back a bit toward the fire wall (4-6 inches), down (all ways down) where the ex. mani is & in frnt of the carb and out the side some. The corners need lapped or cut and bonded edge to edge. A flat plate w/good dwnwrd cant, continuous under the carb.

I'm thinkin of Matt's carb hat (matches the VC) and have a snorkel (cold air tube) ordered from a WesssCoast bronk bro that OEM bent8 had ('74/7) went thru the core support. I like straight rather than corrugated pipe for the increased air flow, may B 3 ft. I need to change frm rectangle tube to round carb hat inlet along the length somehow. The 3 together aughta do it. I may stretch a bit of that blue duct filter over the top of the carb as a. cleaner. All a dream, gotta look at the prts to configure correctly. You? :unsure:
 
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