Removing Head Bolts

Georgia200

Well-known member
#11 doesnt want to move. Thats the bolt that goes into the water pump.

Im afraid that Im going to snap it.

Any suggestions.
 
You might try soaking it for a long while using a rust penatrint like NAPA's "Twice As Good" and then maybe try heating it some too. One other thing to try is one of those manual impack tool sets, they come with screw driver bits and small sockets and can be used with other 3/8 drive impact sockets too. You then strike the tool with a hammer which might shock it enough to break the rust loose without damaging the bolt. Best of luck (y) :nod:
 
"...going to snap it...."
all part of the process.

* Soak for daze (as many as U can wait) w/lght bulb close - penetrating fluid, PB Blaster, ATF&acetone (50%),
* turn CCW a bit then CW, then CCW a lill further & back'n forth like that...more toward CW each time but back a lill, them all CW,
* we weld a nut on, when breakin, or grind it off if too close, drill it, just abt anything but one of those 'easy outs',
* I like the sm impact (w/tq set on lowest) just tappin away, may B loosening, may B gettin that fluid dwn in there?
* Go inside (thru H2O pump'n) heat, clean off rust? Its all just what we do here, exh is just as bad...

All of these things (& more) :banghead:
 
Remove the water pump & shoot PB blaster also from the bottom.
 
wsa111":b9h7b28l said:
Remove the water pump & shoot PB blaster also from the bottom.
(y) This.
Be careful with that bolt hole, there is little threads left after the factory cut it away to make room for the pump impeller.
The water also eats it away.
Oh, I forgot you are working on a 250, Georgia 200.
The above sill applies , the bolt boss is not quite as thin as a 200.
 
Take all the advice here, but in addition, clean all the other head bolts, very lightly re oil the threads, put all the other bolts back in and gently retorque all others to 75 ft lbs and then after a day of soaking the bottom of the water pump bolt 11 with PB Blaster or WD 40 or 556, then gently torque it up to 65 lb-ft and then crack it off.

Good fortune with this.
 
"...after a day of soaking the bottom of the water pump bolt 11 with PB Blaster or WD 40 or 556, then gently torque it up to 65 lb-ft and then crack it off...."
oo00OO yeah, deeze gosh darn engineers all ways come up wid da best!
Love it. Will certinly try nxt time on my own. This I'm gunna call 'the shock it' method!
Sneak up from behind. New one 4 me...deff earns a Death frm Above! sendin ur way. Drink resposibly, now.
C-19 seeks out the under 60 y/o beer drinkers if male...
(y)
 
Much love from Dino the Dinosaur G~200.

Bolt number 11 removal got me on my 250 cross flow, but log heads have been merciful to me.

Chad... Ive been rehearsing my Covid Cough with a C90 Cassette. And a 24 pack of Coronas.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JKBD-nTSb-w

Hope this didnt de rail the ahem, thread....
 
thats the one for this era,

U stole my joke ("I hear alota abt these Coronas around here but ahma Bud man.")
24 ! I didn't drink that many even at ur age !
Man got im self inta shape, now! Took years~
But the cough? Ya need some powder in ur hair to get in the places they let me - hospitals, nursing homes, morgues... :shock:

OK, this is enuff, Serious now. 32 items on the 'essential' employees list now and I may loose mine. Find out this wk. I don't think you'll loose yours. (Them engineers!). Wish me luck, wanna B out there, make a difference. I'm ready to keep goin. Guy behind the plow in the squall, strap me to the mast, bring em off the mountain, I love it, I'm ready to go, hada g r e a t life (no don't wanna die, but...
I know the protocols. I follow the protocols. Ed others on them. Quell the fear, misunderstanding. Provide a needed service beyond that.

Thanks for the great bolt trick w/torque wrench, no way I break em now (I;ll learn a new way to snap, eh?). As Curly said to Larry "I ouda murderize U. WowowowO0oo"
 
good ol Eddie !
:LOL:
:nono:
 
All 14 out without any casualties!

I pulled the water pump and conned my wife into reaching inside the hole while I turned the bolt. She could feel it moving so I knew I had the SOB.

Now I need to get the head off. What do you think about bumping the starter and seeing if compression will break the tension?

On bent engines I usually just give them a whack or two with a big mallet and they pop right off. Not on these sixes.
 
It sure couldn't hurt if you also have a couple head bolts in real loose just in case. You could also use a hoist or engine lift if you happen to have one of them to pull it up too. Good luck (y) :nod: .
 
agreed, also sealed up & use of compressed air?
 
I put the hoist on the thermostat housing bolts, went up until the front end started to lift and let it sit. The head popped off after about 30 sec.

It has a steel shim head gasket.

Hardly any ridge on the top of the cylinder walls, I used a rag with PB Blasteron #3 and the ridge wiped right off.

Pretty close to a zero deck.

The pistons are not Ford and are not stamped oversize.

Cooling passages are pretty plugged, but the few occasions I drove the car the temp was fine. 160 thermostat.

I pulled the exhaust manifold with the head, thats the next project.

I havent looked at the valves yet.
 
w/that method I'd ck in ex port around 3/4 siamessed for a crack, may B even magnaflux the whole thing...
 
Got all but four of the exhaust manifold bolts out.

I cut the heads off them and the machine shop can deal with getting the studs out.

Head and valves look good.
 
Good job that's interesting it still had a steel shim head gasket if it's still good you might hang on to it and take some pictures of the Ford part number for reference. They are about imposable to find anymore. Any pictures of the block, head, ect? Good luck (y) :nod:
 
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