I’m back! And so are the 144 issues (kind of)

Hello all, it’s been a very long time I apologize I’ve missed this site a lot. One crazy year as a senior in high school been scrambling trying to find if I’m still graduating or not lol. Anyways back to falcons I have a lot of free time now with only online classes so I’ve devoted some time to my 64. Here’s a quick catchup to get you all to speed.
144 engine runs fairly well but minor issues I’ve noticed. 1 is it smokes like a train sometimes. Like whenever I’m driving this car in like half suffocating from both exhaust and blow by fumes out the draft tube. If you give it throttle or load I can see a sizeable puff of blue smoke out the exhaust and into the car through various holes. I’m thinking valve seals because she still has good compression and always fires up after 2-5 cranks and doesn’t seem to be pushing out a lot of blow by. Another issue is it falls flat on its face transitioning from 0% throttle to anywhere below 25%. Engine just wants to die. Makes it hard to pull away from away stop without stalling or slipping the clutch a lot. Also I know this is transmission but does anyone know where I can find parts. The transmission is so loud in neutral now it’s louder than the engine is idling. And it makes horrible noises seems like the Input Shaft bearing is completely shot.
Thanks all
Jarod

If it wants to sputter from a stop, I'd check your accelerator pump on the carb. The blow by sucks man, if its seals you're gonna have to yank the head. My recommendation is to find another BETTER head, and rebuild that, then make it a day doing a head swap. Otherwise you'll jusg keep blowing out blowby.

Tranny wise, my 3spd in my car was very loud too. It all went away after i put in a 5spd. You can definitively look into doing that and I highly recommend it. It transformed the car. Especially since yours is a 144, I'd find a SVO WC T5 since its meant for a L4. The first gear being a 4.03, and your rear gear being at least a 3.25, you'll be able to start on any hill. But if you're dead set on keeping it old or on the column, a C4 auto is a good route to go. If you only drive sticks, and you want something like a 3spd from a V8, you're gonna need to make an adapter plate if you're that stubborn and wont do the 5spd lol.

Good luck,
Ryan

I don't know where U R in ur finances. I don;t know where U R in this car. (Even more important) where U R in ur life. Many get it going (mechanical, safety) and work on the body, interior, cosmetics. Some (me as 1) look at the whole and say - "if its good on drivetrain, I'll keep it, wrk on gettin the body, etc - there." /OR/ "if its good on the body etc I can wrk on drive train." So I don't get under water frm the beginning. I believe you did this (but it wuz free so no harm). But no matter. It is done. NOW you have a mo`chine. Thru ur own labors, own finances.

I remember U gotta lota 24!+ from some ppl around you. U ignored and made a good product. It wuz great 4 me to C U take the bull by the horns and do that. Good on ya mate !! I think its been near a yr U been able to drive it around. It may B time to stand back and say "What would I like to do now?" Hopefully as U did school U hada hobby "to blow it out on" as an alternative to the studies (wrk hard, play hard). AND that time U did some research on "falcon'. Collected data on ign and carb tunes, costs and benefits of different motors, transmissions (dreams) yards they might B in, rear gear, tire sz, etc. Ryan suggests U dump parts and upgrade. Sounds good. Nother idea is keep goin on what U got (optimize). Only U can make those decisions.

So if U R on ur way out of the area, state - the 'optimize' might B the answ, upgrade when settled (time, money, a space, etc). May B U know already what U want and its "Go, Go, Do !". no? more research then. U wanna act w/confidence, not a "gee, I don't know...ah...may B ...this?" So when there, U will know. HTH 8^ )

Welcome back Jeriod, glad your still working on your 64 Falcon! So you have severial issues going on the old 144, Assuming that your 144 is still in reasonably good shape. If you find that it isn't we recently helped another member compleate a low budget rebuild of his 1962 144 that you may find interesting the link to it is here. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=80834

On the blow by fumes you would need to install a PCV system in place of that road draft tube to be able to take care of that problem. It's odd that your 1964 Falcon dosen't already have a PCV system. How's the condistion of your floors and exhaust system since you say your getting fumes inside the car? If there are any leaks you sure need to repair those, don't want you getting any chance of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Replacing the Valve Guide Seals with the Head on the Block

On the Replacement of the valve stem seals. I will have to disagree, yes you can do this job with the head still on the engine and in the car, its a quick and easy job that I have done many times over the years on many different engines usally with good results. The exception though is if the valve guides are also worn excessively, with the good compression readings that you have this probally isn't the case, however it's good to at least check it while it's apart by trying to move each of the valve stems in their guides (after the spring and retainer is removed). You will only need a few hand tools, a spring compressor, and the new set of valve stem seals. My spring compressor is a KD that I bought many years ago it's worked every engine I ever needed to do valve seal replacements it resembles this one but sure there are many other made like it.

https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/a ... refilter=1

Optional equipment that help speed up the process is an air compressor and air chuck that fits into the spark plug threads.

Fastest way of corse is to use compressed air if you have access to it, but if not there is also an old school way that will work great. With the engine set at TDC for the cylinder you are going to replace the valve stem seals on. The reason for this is if something should happen with the pistion down the hole you could drop a valve into it, at that point you would be forced to pull the head off. With the rope method the engine is set a little before (BTDC) use some cotton type rope (clothesline was one use of this) you could probably also use some nylon rope of small Dia. like 1/4 or 3/8 it's much stiffer and harder to work with. Feed the rope into the spark plug hole as tight as you can push it in by hand. Then turn the engine up to TDC compressing the rope tighter.

Before this you you start of corse by removing the valve cover, after that you have to remove the rocker shaft assembly, push rods, and remove all the spark plugs to make it easier to turn the engine over by turning the fan or a socket on the crankshaft bolt. On removing the rocker shaft assembly start by loosening the two bolts in the center first and then working outward from there loosening the bolts a little at a time like one to two turns then go back to center and repeate again. I like keep all the push rods in order so they will go back on the same lifter and into the same rocker arms too. This will save you some time with the ajustable rockers not having to reset them after reassembly.

If you are using compressed air be carful the air pressure can move the Pistons and turn the crankshaft around, to help with that it's probably better to also put the other spark plugs back in place except for the cylinder your working on, that will add some resistance. But since your car happens to have a manual trans you can just put it in gear and set the parking brake (try reverse or first for the most leverage).

On your trans issues those 2.77's aren't very hard to rebuild there was a good article on doing this over on the Hamb (see the below link) and the 2.77 parts are still available. I also have a good used 1964 Mustang 2.77 (is the floor shifter type) sitting in my shop that I probably won't be using anytime soon, (Flagstaff, Az area). Good luck

Rebuilding a 2.77 Transmission
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...smission-rebuild-start-to-finish-tech.234213/

tranny: TO berring and a IS bushng replace?
Slippin the clutch all the time can wear it out (0 surface left)

Howdy Back Jarod and All:

Welcome back. An old car is nothing but time, money and knowledge. right now you have the time. I don't know about your money situation so no help there. We are here to help on the knowledge part. So, on with it.

On the trans noise, check the trans fluid. If it is low on lube it will be noisy. It may also be worn, but a proper fluid level will help to quiet it and make it last a little longer. Another possibile noise source is the throw out bearing. If the noise goes away when the clutch is depressed, that's a clue. No easy fix. It will have to be replaced sometime.

Bubba has you well covered on changing the valve stem seals. Worth doing, especially since you say the engine still had good compression.

On the acceleration problem, the accelerator pump is likely the culprit. It can be solved with a rebuild that includes a thorough cleaning, a carb rebuild kit, $50 for a rebuild kit and a can of aerosol carb cleaner spray, some tools and time. Time you have right now.
We are here to help with the know-how.

So start with a plan, keep us posted on your progress and proceed. Good luck.

adios, David

Take your seats,gentlemen.I've been working with him for about a year,until he dropped off the face of the planet.
I will be sending him head #5,a head I uncovered from my collapsed shed(!) last year.Since he's a student, I'm only asking for shipping and/or machine costs,no mark-ups.
#5 is/was a C6 casting that I hole sawed out the intake hole to 1.75,milled .060, made a crude adapter for a YF and cut for viton seals, did some bowl work on and then was given 2 200s,when all work on this head stopped.
It's in the shop now getting valve guides and a valve job.
I didn't know it was this bad,now I'm eyeballing my rockcrusher 2.77,LOM 1/4" with petronix and other items for donations( as well as making room for my FE's.)
He's going to need help covering shipping fellas.Pass a hat.

don't destroy a rock crusher. Those R pretty neat. When a lill more sq (if possible) away let's C whats nxt.
Prts here too (remember Redkin & my exhaust).

hello all. Thank you for all the responses. Bubba about the motor I agree it’s odd it doesn’t have PCV. The 64 shop manual shows it as having one. I checked the engine code it’s a 1963 block and the falcon was manufactured in May 1963 as well not sure if that affects anything. As for the floor it’s well “ventilated” considering there’s a good 1ft x 1ft hole in the rear floor pan and the entire front is patched together with sheet metal and license plates. I’m sure that’s where exhaust is getting in. Thank you for your guide on valve seals I am definitely going to look into that I am familiar with the process as I have replaced valve seals before when I was rebuilding our small block mopar. And about the transmission I checked the fluid level in it and it wasn’t low. I might just replace the fluid in there with thicker stuff but I’m not sure. I’m almost certain it’s the IS bearing. Another thing is 16 volts charging for the batter excessive?

And about that mustang 2.77 floor shift. About how hard is it to convert the floor shift back to column shift compatible with my car?

Hi Jeriod, your 1964 sounds like it was a very early model build but even if it has that may 1963 built engine it still should have a PCV system stock they were even on the 1962 models and even sooner for the California market cars. I can only guess as to why maybe a perilous owner just hated those new fangled smog devisees so much back then that they put on the road draft tube, I met many of those old timers when repairing cars and trucks.

I think your likely right about the front input shaft bearing it is a common problem on high mileage transmissions. As far as the diffenaces of the floor shift trans it has a mounting location on the tail housing for the floor shifter to bolt on. The floor shifter unit, rods, and shifter arms are unbolted and the colum shifter arms are installed. The rest is exactly the same as all other 2.77 transmissions.

Yes 16 volts is way to much over a short time that will cook your battery. A fully charged 12 volt battery will read about 12.6 volts across the posts with the engine off. If you pull the voltage regulators cover off check inside for clean contacts no pitting ect. on each of the points and also if they are sticking be carful you might want to disconnect the battery first before trying to clean the contacts with like a point file. On the old original VR's you could adjust them to raise or lower the charging voltage. As the engine RPM goes up you should get a voltage reading of around 13.8 to about a max of 14.2 volts your manual should give the exact readings, you may have to buy a new Voltage Regulator if you can't get it adjusted down some. Good luck

"perilous owner".I love that bubba,I just might be one!

:rolflmao: Lol, yes you might be Chero! I do try to keep it right yet this auto correct program will change what I am typing :arg: it's frustrating having to go back and fix them all.