Modifying Stainless Header

I have the dual out stainless header like Vintage Inlines and eBay sells, the problem I have is the back set of tubes point toward my starter on my 250 and I need to do something to guide them away.

I was thinking, at first is just to cut up the bolt-on downpipes and have them re-welded with a fairly severe bend at the very beginning, I can't weld stainless so I would have to find someone to do it for me.

The other thing I was wondering if it would be possible is having the flange milled with a slope to make them tilt out slightly. the flange is 1/2" thick and if it was milled from full-thickness at the bottom to 1/4"-3/8" thick at the top (take either an 1/8" or 1/4" thickness off the top) it would tilt the collectors out enough I could just put the downpipes on as-is with a little modification to hook up to my exhaust pipes.

The only thing that I thought about is the bolts would no longer rest flat against the face of the flange, but would it be enough to cause an issue?

Looking for thoughts on this.

See Ya,
Mike

What starter are you using? You can gain a little clearance by using a mini-starter, either late model or aftermarket.

Econoline":1eoxfw2t said:

What starter are you using? You can gain a little clearance by using a mini-starter, either late model or aftermarket.

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That is what I have, the main problem is the collector is cocked toward the starter, don't know if that is the way all of them are or if mine was just put together poorly?

I also thought about having the collector cut off and welded back on.

I think the main issue is there really isn't a 250 header out there. I may put the PaceMaker Header back on there and see if it would be easier to mod, it is steel so I might be able to weld on it myself but if I use it I would like it JetHot coated and that isn't cheap.

See Ya,
Mike

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What about a slightly angled spacer between the head and the header....The exhaust flange is angled down more than it should be for best flow, actuly does not line up right , probably pick up some flow....Old ford hot rodders trick.
Some of the mini starters are offset more than others and can be clocked.

I got "the last CI shortie" from Will as he closed dwn (B4 Matt). He could not guarantee a bronk fit. I hada minor mod & the standard starter fit. I did not use the 80s stang bent6 I had (returned 4$ back). Ground out a coupla the holes so the ex port bolts would fit thru the flange.

There was not much to it. We've made che**y headers fit dodge, etc. Sometimes just a massage w/a BFH or a lill cut under
neath'n a re weld. (&/or Put a rod down inside & bend B4 a weld-back). I think w/the CI one tube wuz cut off the flange, a lill removal & a triangular piece welded in underneath, tube reattached. It all fit btwn the frame'n 250 as it sat (on inside of frame).

I think if U angle out the underneath (grind dwn flange) it will shorten so as 2B not long enuff any more? All ways add, don't remove?

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

I cut the tubes shorter on the PaceMaker header, pie cut the lower pipe and re-welded it further out, I also dimpled the devil out of the top pipe (I think it will be ok) still need to pie cut the lower pipe again and weld further out but did not want to take it all in one big cut. May try and add a bend back on the upper pipe to start it pointing toward the inside pipe.

Going to grind a little off the bell housing as well, the flange next to the starter protrudes past the engine plate quite a bit on that side.

I will show you what I did later when I finish, haven't taken a picture yet.

See Ya,
Mike

dat's da ticket !
U Go Bro!, not long now.
I'm subscribed to see that intake cast.
I think I met U when U did 1 (a lill carb mount) for the 1100
back in 2012 or so? Don't wanna miss this one~

I don't think it will cost you to much to have someone tig the one collector back on if you cut it and index it the way you want it and take it to them. That would cost me ~$60-75 around here. I have to regularly modify stainless high rise marine exhaust manifolds and have them rejoined for new installations and it's pretty reasonable.

drag-200stang":1bxphdc4 said:

What about a slightly angled spacer between the head and the header....The exhaust flange is angled down more than it should be for best flow, actuly does not line up right , probably pick up some flow....Old ford hot rodders trick.
Some of the mini starters are offset more than others and can be clocked.

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X2 great idea drag-200stang, since those headers are made to fit a 144's, 170's & 200's "long block height" a spacer would drop them down a little too for a better fit on the taller 250's. That should also be much easier then cutting and rewelding the SS headers, finding decent set of 250 headers that fit isn't easy. Good lucl

For now, I will leave the stainless headers alone and run the Pacemakers, I was considering JetHot for them but think I will not spend the money because I am not super happy with them, I think in the end the stainless ones will work better.

If there was someone with a CNC plasma and a mill they could make some wedge spacers for me I would like them in stainless but will take steel :roll:

The more I dimpled the header the longer the dimple became until it was a valley :roll: but they fit now, I cut and welded parts of the angled pieces back on, the front/lower pipe is pretty good and aligned with the outer exhaust pipe, the back/top pipe needs more added to turn it down toward the pipe.


In the picture below you can see how close they run to the starter and bell housing, you couldn't get the starter off without taking the header loose because there is no way to get any kind of wrench or socket on that outside bolt (maybe a box end wrench would slowly turn it out)


I am wanting to add some flex joints if I can get them to fit between the header and the exhaust system, I don't know how flexy those are and if I could use one to transition the upper pipe down, I am going to cut the exhaust pipes off just ahead of the clamps holding them to the car and let the clamps do double duty. I should be able to run band clamps in the front.

Like I said this one should get me going but I really don't want to burn the starter up and then not be able to change it, if I had a starter I could index I could roll the solenoid up toward the motor and I wouldn't be as much of a concern.

See Ya,
Mike

what about a removeable (flanged or clamped) section right at the collector of those headers to make it easier to remove the stater? They make some oval pipes for really low cars perhaps you could use a couple short sections there to make more room.

Thats bad news because I will have the same issue. I was hoping the ebay header would clear.

U have a Speed Daddy header w/a 250?
Which vehicle "Georgia"?

OK - no laughing - but what would happen if you used just a laser jet cut of the exhaust mounting flange? In other words, use just the flat flange itself without the header pipes? I believe I have seen them on this forum. In essence the flange would act as a spacer, but would have the same port matching as the head itself and could be sandwiched between the head and the header.

Soldmy66":28piifmm said:

OK - no laughing - but what would happen if you used just a laser jet cut of the exhaust mounting flange?

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It might work not sure, I could space out with some 1/2"? spacers and see what it does, I am not sure but it seems like tilting it gives more clearance at the bottom than moving straight out but I could be wrong. I have enough room I could go 3/4"-1" and not hit anything but I don't have any shock towers so it might be different for others or depending on what vehicle you put it in. The only thing is hitting the A/C bracket that is not on there now, then again it might give it more space :roll:

I will look for some long bolts and try it.

See Ya,
Mike

HI Mike you might contact CNC-Dude he might be able to make some spacers out of stainless or steel. There might even be a market he could capture since finding any 250 spec hears is so hard to do now. Good luck

I have a set of un-ID'd headers from CL ($75 8) ), considered modifying to fit 250's. took some pics to try figure it out. # 5 tube . starter / bell interferes :

CL headers
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Hooker 250 Headers # 6602, and Hooker 200 Headers 6601.

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200 -- 250
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The tight fit around OEM starter/bellhouse is header art-porn :roll:
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PMGR starte really helps prevent heat-soak starter problems...
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Have safe Fun







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powerband":28gdhvvn said:

Hooker 250 Headers # 6602, and Hooker 200 Headers 6601.

Click to expand...

Nice, I would hate to try and shove a set of long tube headers down in the space I have on my Comet.

I have a Clifford long tube header as well, I didn't even try it because it hangs down so far that it would most likely be dragging the ground.

See Ya,
Mike

Your problem starts way before the collector. In the above pics, you have several inches of clearance between the frame and tubes before the collectors come together. If the primary tubes weren't bent out of the header flange so sharp, then the collector would have more clearance around the starter. If you have an old cylinder head and a heavy workbench, you could heat the three tubes with a torch and try to bend them out from the head an inch or so to give better clearance around the starter. Then you may be able to straighten out the dented pipe some to regain its shape. This may help provide a happy medium of fitment before having to resort to cutting them apart.