Help with new carb please

I have a ‘66 mustang coupe 200 inline (of course) but the Holley 1940 style carb is trash. The car will idle by pouring gas in the fuel bowl of carb. But not rev up when trying to throttle it. She would just die.

I rebuilt the carb and it will run and throttle up. But the carb is missing fast idle rod and the choke is messed up and vacuum was blocked off from the previous owner.

I don’t want to keep ‘rigging’ the carb just to make it run. So I’m gonna replace it.

What is the best carb that you suggest. There is no need for me to try to build power. So for me... the most reliable carb is what I’m looking for

Thanks

Check out vintageinlines.com
Matt may have a carb. for your application.
You would be better off getting rid of the loadamatic & get a 68 distributor & a carb without the loadamatic.
The best is get a DS11 & a ignition box & coil to top it off. Bill

i agree with bill, start at vintageinlines and see what matt has for carbs. the autolite 1100 is a good carb to run, and so is the holley 1940. but you should get the later non LOM carb and distributor for best reliability, performance, and drivability. another option would be to step up and put on a 38/38 weber carb using an adapter on the log head. i did a similar swap, i used a 2100 autolite though, and improved reliability, and driveability, as well as performance even with the carb adapter.

as for the ignition, i recommend running the mid to late 70s duraspark distributor. i hooked mine to a chrysler ignition box and msd blaster lll coil and talk about an improvement, that engine would light off first try in 30 degree weather WITHOUT the choke being on.

Thank you. My next upgrade would be a HEI Distributer from vintage inline. Would your carb recommendations still be valid? Or does that open up a can of worms?

I’m a Chevy man and build so many Chevy engines. And always been in love with classic mustangs.

So in keeping Ford a ford, I know nothing on what works (with ford) and any help will be greatly appreciated.

W E L C O M E. !!!

not sure ur expertiese, tools or knowledge. You are post 1964 block so can keep the OEM look and still get
relaibility, MPGs and pep (known a performance) w/a DSII ignition system (as suggested) and an '68+ Autolite carb. Many of us use "the Handbook" (~20, 25 $ also from Matt at 'vin inl dot com") and while waiting for delivery - the above 'tech archive' (free).

https://www.vintageinlines.com/product- ... e-handbook

https://www.ebay.com/b/Autolite-Carbure ... n_71604371

I think Mike's hasa datona relacement carb: https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Autoli ... p_281.html

the Handbook will get U up to speed on these i6 motors (different than many other co.s) ie block, carb, ignition (the LOM/SCV feedback system).

https://fordsix.com/ci/Loadomatic.html

Keep talkin, we'll keep informin !

U were postin while I wuz.
I like the DSII better. Some use your HEI 4 pin with it. See go fast for less:
http://www.gofastforless.com
rather than the ds2 control box. It makes for a neat, clean instal, easy rd side replacement, low expense (U can hide it easy too for oem look).
Rich (as posted) above likes the mopowr orange module
U can even get rid of the ford starting solinoid, ballist resistor, 'pink wire', senior moment here (that lill blk box w/the points in it, starts w/"R") & use the GM 1 wire alternator...
The sky's the limit

(ah...er...not reisitor, not rectfier...mmm... :duh:

Check out 'the Handbook' for a real nice staged maintainence/build ie drive while saving, learning the "ford's better ideas" (yeah, right) and upgrading (as per above). And the tech archive @ the big blue box above. Click on the crossed screwdriver'm wrench. I'd skip the DUI...

I just bought the handbook. Thanks for requesting it.
But my plans for this car is to add AC and drive it everywhere it came with power steering but I seen a kit I can buy to make it electric power steering. That will be cool.

So please let me know what I need to do. I might have read the post wrong, but what carb will I need for the DS2 distributer? Or is the answer in the handbook?

PopPops":1tpvqw8t said:

Thank you. My next upgrade would be a HEI Distributer from vintage inline. Would your carb recommendations still be valid? Or does that open up a can of worms?

I’m a Chevy man and build so many Chevy engines. And always been in love with classic mustangs.

So in keeping Ford a ford, I know nothing on what works (with ford) and any help will be greatly appreciated.

Click to expand...

yes, if you get the DUI ignition, my carb recommendations still apply. i prefer either of the two barrel carbs i suggested over the one barrel though. and since yours is a 66, the weber 38/38 is teh better choice imo on the smaller log.

Thank you bro. That’s is what I’m gonna look into getting. Like I said earlier, I bought the book but it will take 7-10 days to get here.

So I do appreciate y’all expertese (I think I spelled that wrong)

Howdy Pop and All:

The correct carb for your stock '66 200 is an Autolite 1100. This carb has a Spark Control Valve (SCV) that is designed to work with the stock Load-o-Matic, vacuum only, distributor. The SCV sends a load sensitive vacuum signal to the advance in the L0M distributor. The stock '66 carb works with the stock distributor. together they make a good running stock system. Changing one will create an imbalance. You will not be happy. If you change one you should plan on changing both.

Ideally, if you wish to change to a DuraSpark II ignition (and I would recommend it) you will also need to match it to a '68 - '69 Autolite carb, or upgrade to an Autolite 1101. A stock '66 1100 will be a mismatch.The distributor upgrade has both centrifugal and vacuum advance and is compatible with the vacuum signal from an '68 - '69 Autolite 1100 and '69 1101. The 1101 carb is slightly larger in CFM than a stock, original 1100. Unfortunately Autolite has been out of business since the early 70s. The beauty of this combo is it is all stock- linkage, fuel lines, air cleaner- fit, with one easy modification to accommodate a large throttle bore in the carb.

What trans is in your car? Keep us posted on your plans.

Adios, David

My car, she has an automatic. And I’ll do the DS2, just trying to figure out the right carb. I’m looking into a 38/38 Weber. Just don’t know which one to get

that will need an adapter (see Matt) I believe.

38 mm is fairly large (esp 2) - is a modern (new)cam recommended?
Where's "AK" when U need 'em?

Can U convert rod to cable linkage? Will U send this all out to B done?

"...Just don’t know which one to get,,,"
same ol, same ol - "What is the application?"
THE automotive Q to every choice...
As a 'system', change 1 thing - effects all others...

I can convert from rod to cable linkage. That’s no prob for me. And I’ll do all the work myself. I won’t send it off to be done

If you go to a 2-bbl, here are 2 threads you should look at:

Direct-mounting a 2-bbl adapter to a log manifold (ditching the ford adapter plate, lowering the carb, and keeping the original throttle rod)
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=32460&p=235935&hilit=carb+adapter+mount#p235935

And if you want to keep the stock air cleaner housing:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=74078&p=570113&hilit=carb+adapter+mount#p570113

Also, you *can* use an early SCV carburetor with a later non-LOM distributor, simply by plugging/capping the SCV port on the carb and hooking the distributor to manifold vacuum (anywhere under the throttle plate, Ford often has ports in the manifold.) Just don't try to hook a non-LOM distributor to an SCV port/carb, that won't work for sure.

Also, understand that most "rebuilt/remanufactured" Carbs, especially the big-house ones like you'd get through your local parts store, are mechanical abortions done by unskilled gorillas using large wooden mallets and 3-foot crowbars. I haven't seen a good carb come out of a parts store in 25 years.
Hell, I'd take a crappy new chinese clone over anything "remanufactured" by Holley, your odds are far better.

So make sure you get one from a reputable source.

Thank you bro.

I’m trying to send the photos of the carb and distributor.

This is how I got the car. Like I said before. I’m new to line6 and I don’t know much over this. But any help is appreciated

"...So make sure you get one from a reputable source...."
or get any & rebuild what ever comes out of ur mail box or acc the parts counter.
Have U tried:

car-parts.com

I got one there after looking up Y/M/M on Mike's carb

https://www.carburetor-parts.com

Others go to rock auto, autozone, NAPA, our "4 Sale" forum...
"...the most reliable carb ..." I thought a 38 yr no touch YF (carter) pretty good on my working 'truck' (170/2.8 bronk log skidding woods 'truck'). Opposite direction to the 38/38. That's Y I asked 'application". The 200 is a rev-er compaired to my tq-er (250) so peppie w/a 38/38...

Well since you asked for suggestions I would look at the Autolite 1101 for easy install and more cfm. They are all old though so get one rebuilt/rebushed from a good carb supplier.
Also available is a chinese (I know) reproduction 1v 250 cfm carb pretty low priced on ebay. Under a $100.
And a 2v you may be able to install yourself is a Carter BBD available on ebay in three different cfms used on Chryslers v8 and six for decades. Old would probably need rebuild or also available new on ebay from china less than $100.
Webers are cool but I have heard from various people they are hard to set up and get running good.
Probably as important would be a DSII dist and wsa111 can do a custom curve for you.