CI/VI Head on a 170?

65_Stang_170

Well-known member
Howdy!

As the title suggests, I am contemplating putting a CI/VI aluminum head on my stock 170 while I get the bottom end I'm going to end up using situated. Is that workable? I have a Weber 32/36. I am assuming that switching to the CI/VI head will drive the need for a cable setup for the throttle? Any other considerations?

Thanks!
-Shawn
 
sure, Y not? Did U read the stuff, talk to Matt?
It fits (probably all four small6s).
What are U thinkin?
 
In short, yes, you can.

But something to consider -- If you used a 200 block instead - you would start with about 17.6% more cylinder volume - with the same packaging.

IIWIYS - I would strongly consider the benefit of having larger displacement as your starting point (and the additional benefit from increasing from 4 main bearings to 7 main bearings).

Food for thought.
 
Thank you for the replies. I was just thinking about putting it on the 170 with what I have currently as a stop-gap while I get the 250 bottom end up to snuff. Looks like I would need the 2V adapter for the aluminum head which isn't available via the VI website, and doing a cable throttle conversion. I will probably just wait until the 250 is ready (questions to follow once I get it) before slapping the aluminum head in the car.
 
Sure you can and then some of it's set up will be ready for your new short block, so that will be a little faster install next time. Just don't expect miracles on a well used stock 170 and there will be some extra work to change it out twice. Remember that the 250 short block is taller so there will be some changes to the exhaust system and mounts for a 250. Should be an excellent combo CI / VI head with a 250 short block in your 65 Mustang. (y) :nod:
 
a '66 stang is quite different than a '69.
"...slapping the aluminum head in the car..."
and slapping the 250 (wider, taller) in is a chore.
Luck is on ur side, tho~
 
one thing you need to consider is valve size. in your case not the loss of performance you might get from too large of valves, but rather the possible interference with the cylinder wall. unless matt has made a change, the valves sizes are 1.88in/1.50ex. they fit the 200/250 bore well, but the 170 bore is 3.50" so check the valve to bore wall clearance before firing the engine in anger.
 
rbohm":2y35c8ek said:
one thing you need to consider is valve size. in your case not the loss of performance you might get from too large of valves, but rather the possible interference with the cylinder wall. unless matt has made a change, the valves sizes are 1.88in/1.50ex. they fit the 200/250 bore well, but the 170 bore is 3.50" so check the valve to bore wall clearance before firing the engine in anger.

That’s a great point. Thanks for the heads up.
 
Hi,

For what it's worth, I've run an Aussie 2V head on a 170 for the past 16 years (and the previous owner 4 years before that). No problems at all but if you have a choice of 170 vs 200/250 head gasket make sure you get the latter. Here in New Zealand the only readily available head gasket is the 20/250 sized one so for me it wasn't an issue.

When I had a hot engine built last year, my engine builder grumbled that we were losing horses because of the mismatch between the combustion chamber and the bore but it was cheaper than cutting up a log manifold head and welding 6 intake runners on so we've stuck with the Aussie 2V.

+1 on the checking of valves to deck clearance. I saw a 2800cc engine out of a Datsun 260Z a few years ago that had the cam timing wrong. After assembly, it wouldn't start on the key so the owner and his mate towed the car down the road at 50kpm (30mph) before selecting a gear and dropping the clutch. Most of the bits collected in the sump!

Alan.
 
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