Ok to run at 160-180 coolant temps?

Ran a test today - blocked about half the radiator with cardboard and took it for a ride... Stayed pretty much locked in at 190 the whole time! Awesome idea, I didn't expect it to work that well!
 
That's excellent, I am sure you would get semular results by removing the mechanical fan without the radiator blocked off. :nod:
 
Yeah, will do some more tweaking. Probably will change to a stock thermostat soon. But at least I feel comfortable taking the car out for long rides now.. want to enjoy it for a bit before I start making changes again.

Thanks all!
 
bubba: As a side note. I have Dakota Digital gauges and a sender in the stock location. I also have FiTech efi with it's sender in the thermostat housing. I only see a 5 degree difference in temps. The sender in the head usually reads 5-6 degrees more than the efi sensor in the housing.

The only electric fan that I know of that will fit our cars is the Sidewinder. @$420 it is expensive but works very well. I have seen it installed in some inline's and some customs.

https://the-fan-man.com/product-category/sidewinder/

Or you can find a thin fan from SPAL with high CFM and mount it offset to clear the water pump pulley.
 
Hi Marco, that fan with its off set motor would be a big help in these tight engine compartments. Haven't used or worked on that system I wonder how sensitive a difference in operating temps are to the FiTech's tuning with that 5 degree change in coolant temp from rear to front? (y) :nod:
 
Heck, I'd try a stock 190 or 195 thermostat, see if it still swings.

My suspicion is that the fancy Edelbrock "high flow" one is too sensitive. Any good cooling system should get the engine up to temp quickly, and then keep it there. Any thermostat will cycle slightly up/down until the whole system stabilizes (maybe 10-15 minutes), but the swings you're having are far too big.

Also, you could do your cooling system a favor and run a lower-pressure radiator cap, like maybe 5-7 psi. Only reason to run a higher one is if you're pushing higher temps and need to keep it from boiling. (I've run a 7-psi cap on my Buick 455 for years - hoses last forever with less stress on them.)
 
jamyers, I totally agree, I'm pretty sure it's the "high flow" thermostat that's causing all of my problems. I ordered a stock 190 Motorcraft, and it came in today.. will swap that in probably sometime this week. By the way, it feels so much better made than any of the aftermarkets I've seen (motorad, stant, gates, etc). One of these days I'll learn - just suck it up and buy OEM the first time.
 
Alright, last post.. promise. Swapped thermostats and I no longer get the big swings in temp anymore. It's still a bit tough to get up to temp but runs pretty consistently at 180-185. Need to go back to blocking the radiator for now, and am looking into electric fans. I'll start a new thread if I get that working though.

Side note, the Ford parts website lists RT1167 as the stock temp Motorcraft thermostat for the 200 in a '66 Mustang, and this is NOT correct - it's not even close to the right size. RockAuto also has the same # listed. I went to the dealership and their computers could only look up post-1980, but I had them get the part # for a '80 Fairmont, and that one does fit. Part # is RT1139, and it's very well made - even still made in the US! Temp is 192 on it.
 
Hi, I think the 1167 thermostat is for 351 Clevelands and the "385" Big Block engines. Good catch
 
Part # is RT1139
thank you~
(y)
 
So the RT1139 is the correct number for the 200's? I have been looking for a 192 temp for a while but all the websites list something different.
 
Yup that's the right one, I just put it in and works great. Noticably better made than the Motorad that I was about to put in.
 
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