Identifying Adjustable Rockers

6

65_Stang_170

Well-known member
Howdy!

I was just wondering if there was a way to differentiate between the 1.5 and 1.6 adjustable rocker arms. I have some adjustables, and just want to know what I have.

Thanks!
-Shawn
 
1.6 are not stock.
Any pic?
Ever looked at these B4?
 
Bolt them on the engine and turn through a revolution by using a wrench on crankshaft next use a dial indacator to measure the total lift at the valve. Next measure the cam total lift at a lifter (with the head off) compareing those two measurements will tell you the rocker arm ratio. :nod:
 
chad":1c20qvwp said:
1.6 are not stock.
Any pic?
Ever looked at these B4?
Click to expand...

Chad, Yes, the 1.6 are not stock. This is my first experience with adjustable rockers, but since they came with a CI head, I would think there is a high possibility of them being the 1.6.








bubba22349":1c20qvwp said:
Bolt them on the engine and turn through a revolution by using a wrench on crankshaft next use a dial indacator to measure the total lift at the valve. Next measure the cam total lift at a lifter (with the head off) compareing those two measurements will tell you the rocker arm ratio. :nod:
Click to expand...

Looks like I’m getting a dial indicator! I have to pull that broken piston out before going through this though...

Also, is a cam labeled/marked on the front so it can be identified while installed? This engine is a mystery, but I’m becoming a detective!

Thanks!
-Shawn
 
Cam markings are going to be found the back end of the cams last bearing journal. If you decide to pull the cam out to see what it is be sure to keep all the lifters in the order they come out from front to rear that is if your planing to reuse them and there's no reason not to on such a new engine build. That way you can make sure they all go back on their same cam lobes. I wonder if that engine even ran for very long before being pulled out. Did you do the test of the valve job seal test yet or put a straight edge on the deck to see if the head is still flat? Something like a carpenters framing square would wok for that. Good luck :nod:
 
bubba22349":wozh8ppv said:
Cam markings are going to be found the back end of the cams last bearing journal. If you decide to pull the cam out to see what it is be sure to keep all the lifters in the order they come out from front to rear that is if your planing to reuse them and there's no reason not to on such a new engine build. That way you can make sure they all go back on their same cam lobes. I wonder if that engine even ran for very long before being pulled out. Did you do the test of the valve job seal test yet or put a straight edge on the deck to see if the head is still flat? Something like a carpenters framing square would wok for that. Good luck :nod:
Click to expand...

Bummer, that's going to be a job to be able to identify the cam... I guess I need to if I want to figure out my build. The guy I bought it from said that the engine had less than 1000 miles on it before the damage happened. I'll test the valve seal along with the head surface tonight or tomorrow and report back.
 
:beer: Excellent news than the engine is practally brand new, looks like he put a considerable amount of money into it. Yes I think it would be good to know what cam you are working with and also when you get that dial indicator you can check out the cams install if it's (degree'ed properly). So you know if that was done right and you will also be able to ID and know which timing chain and gear set that was used in it. :nod:
 
By the way, there are some printable degree wheels that you can find online, (see the below link) is for one that you can custom input all your perfered info in inches such as for a wheel diameter of up to 24 inches. The wheel info is defaulted to inches and by un-selecting the inch button it goes to metrics if that should be your preference. You also can include timing marks for all the cams timing events to make it even easier when checking and add some other degree marks. Good luck (y) :nod:

Printable Degree Wheel
https://www.blocklayer.com/degree-wheeleng.aspx
 
X2 What Bubba said.
Does not matter what is marked on the cam, you cannot for sure know that it is marked right.
Just degree the cam and you will know if it is installed right and what the events are.
 
bubba22349":at9nedja said:
By the way, there are some printable degree wheels that you can find online, (see the below link) is for one that you can custom input all your perfered info in inches such as for a wheel diameter of up to 24 inches. The wheel info is defaulted to inches and by un-selecting the inch button it goes to metrics if that should be your preference. You also can include timing marks for all the cams timing events to make it even easier when checking and add some other degree marks. Good luck (y) :nod:

Printable Degree Wheel
https://www.blocklayer.com/degree-wheeleng.aspx
Click to expand...

I just went ahead and bought a degree wheel and dial indicator for the job (when I get there). I check the head surface and it is straight/flat as can be. I also poured some paint thinner into the chamber bowl and it doesn't appear that there is anything leaking. Would it be obvious? bubbles, drip, drastic change in liquid level? Either way, I'm counting both tests as a win!
 
Depends on how bad the valve seal is as to how fast it would leak but after waiting for an amount of time you if don't see any moisture inside both ports then your good to go. (y) :nod:
 
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