Should I be looking at more carb?

As per usual when a build lasts for 13 years, things and plans change. Original plan was a slightly hopped up 200 and 3.03 three speed, 3ott(stock looking) Bought a. 32/36 Weber from a gentleman who upgrade his carb , that was with my 69 head and later model large log exhaust manifold.
I now am using a 78 head with vintage inlines dual outlet header, t5z from 94 mustang,
Other specs are comp 260 h cam, 1.5 rockers, wsa111 curved ds2 dizzy with a msd 6al box.
Still haven't driven the car, I'm detailing the motor now for when the body gets painted here shortly it will be drop in ready. I have been thinking that perhaps I may want to look to a bigger carb. I have a second head that i can ship to the machine shop for a 2v conversion if needed. Just wondering if it would be worth the squeeze to upgrade now vs later.

Maybe, if you happen to be using a 2V to 1V carb adapter! Then there is no doubt about it the extra Horse Poer (HP) you would get with a direct mounted carb (Dyno Proven) versus using even the same carb with an adapter. The adapter will be a bottle neck slowing down the carb's flow into the heads log no mater which size carb you choose. This is even with the later large log heads (the best Log Head we have use next to the C.I. / V.I. Alum. Head) and the 1 3/4 inch carb base mounting hole is still small. Opening up the carb base mounting hole to 2 or if carful to elongate it 2 1/8 inches on sides and radiusing bottom of hole opening of both sides parallel with the log to help the flow turning into the log could also help some and is a cheap do it yourself project yet the 2V direct mount is the best way leads to the most potential Horse Power.

This was the direction that even Ford was taking with their last few "Experimental 200 / 250 Log Heads" even advertising these new heads in print just before the end of the small six production. It's a pity they didn't go ahead and build lots of these 2V heads as an upgrade part for these great little engines. I don't know what it would cost you to do the 2V direct mount in your area and only you can really decide if it's worth it right now or waiting until a later time. I am sure with your mod's that it is going to be a fun driver regardless of if you decide to do it now or later on, plus having that extra head would keep the down time to a minimum so you can keep enjoying your car until then. Best of luck

Car is still down for a while as it's currently sideways on a rotisserie while I same the bottom , so I could always pull my current head off and send it to the machine shop and have them mill it now.
Justand want to know if estimated dollar per gain would be worth it. Not just hp, but drivability and economy.

Ok Sure I understand, so testing shows that with a 2V carb used on an adapter was worth 5 HP increase over a stock 1V carb. This is a decent improvement in power for an easy bolt on combo, with economy and drivability also improved. This was done with all of the popular 2V carb's bolted to the adapter and in swapping on the different 2V's didn't really change things much. Showing were that restriction was at the adapter to log mounting.

Getting more HP out of a milder street driver build up is very helpful in drivability and I have often found it also gave better economy on many engines that us up to a point. So things like a free flowing exhaust system of the right size is a great improvement that you have partly done with a set of headers. These small six'es were also severely under carbed to give them good economy yet with some improvement to fuel system intake we will get rewards of both power, economy and drivability. The Ignistion system was also on the weak side and another thing you have already taken care of. Course if we want focus mainly just on the economy and drivability then it's possible to go to far on a build up to, trading the engines economy for Raw Power. Yes your current chooice of the adapter and 2V carb is also a decent one.

With a direct mount 2V carb even the same as used above the difference was to 24 HP over a stock 1V carb, quite a bit bigger improvement. That also shows that the adapter was the limiting factory. With the direct mount swapping the different 2V carb's showed some differences to with the Holley 350 CFM bring in the highest HP followed by the Autolite 2100. What does it all mean? With a little more HP the engine has become more efficient requires less throttle to maintain the same speed which then can also increase the cars economy and drivability. Best economy is going to be with Autolite 2100 / Motorcraft 2150 or using a progressive Weber carb. After you have the estimated cost to do the direct 2V mounting divide that by the 24 HP gain to get your dollar per HP gain. Also remember that several of the skilled site members have even done these 2V direct mount swaps at home with only some basic a hand tools shuch as a coupe hand grinders. Best of luck

"...to know if estimated dollar per gain would be worth it. Not just hp, but drivability and economy...."
you have to answ that. There are gains there.
See the tech archive to compare.
What will the work cost - what you yourself say abt that v results.
(AND BTW: who does it, let us know if a quality shop).
A look 1st may get ur expectations in line w/reality then may B
rate each ft/lb tq or 1 HP increase a dollar figure?
For a higher ROI geta better 'race carb"...

my advice would be to finish your build as is for now. get teh car on the road with the current combo and then decide of you want more power, or feel you need a larger carb. nothing kills a project faster than midstream changes. that upsets the apple cart, so to speak. at this point in your project, mid stream changes use up money that can go to finishing a project instead.