Brief stall when accelerating after long idle

1965 170ci with new Autolite 1100

If the car gets to temperature and idles for too long or is shut off and turned on again within 15min.... as soon as you give it gas it dies and then recovers. Thought it may be vapor lock so I insulated the fuel line but no difference. I live at 6500ft.

Too rich? Flooding?

It might be too rich for that altitude. Do you know where the vehicle originated, altitude wise?

Econoline":2d31b3h3 said:

It might be too rich for that altitude. Do you know where the vehicle originated, altitude wise?

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San Jose. I swapped to one jet size leaner this evening and the car hated it. Was bucking like a mad horse all over the place. Didnt matter where the idle mixture screw was. Seems like the #61 jet is the overall right size.

Car runs really well other than this little issue.

"...as soon as you give it gas it dies and then recovers..." tough call.
can the carb bowl evap of fuel as U wait? cked F pump (amount & flow) and filters?
coil over hot? (let's talk more abt ign too). Motor mounts (pulling on acceleration)? Rod
or cable link for throttle?

How long has it been goin on? what if anything, wuz changed right B4 the prob started?

I am often fooled (not a real mechanic) by seeming carb issues when ign is actually off. If U
know a full (10 min) ign tune and have not found its problem yet I'd suggest one (we can guide) as
a 1st or nxt step. That gets U in good shape to cont w/the fuel issues (float, needle'n seat,
F. pump measure, etc

U just put ina carb so I assume that was set up right (nother reason to do the ign tune) but have no clue.
Y is that carb in there now? (drop my 1st suggestion if U rebuilt the carb B4 install. Evap happens to older
carbs that are loose - cracked, dried up ol gaskets, etc).

With the design of our heads log and carb setting over the hot exhaust manifold plus the current fuels that we have to deal with, it sounds like heat soak caused flooding to me. Try making a carb insulator out of some plastic and or a sheet medal plate under the base of the carb to defect the heat.

If you search some posts here on vapor lock or heat soak. I always say add a vapor return fuel filter. When addo (a old member here) told me about it. It worked like a charm. Or if you have an old electric fuel pump or can borrow one. Try adding it near the fuel tank. If that works then you can use it as a helper pump on a switch when needed. Or just go full electric fuel pump and block off the mechanical.

Or forget what I just said and do what bubba suggested. Either suggestions should work.

ADDITIONALLY:
even a phenolic spacer under the carb?