I was surfing for parts on Summit and ran across this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sne-550-552
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sne-550-552
Sniper EFI
- Thread starter MustangSix
- Start date
Jack, i lot of Ford Six members use them.
However a DUI or a HEI produces a dirty signal & cannot be used.
That leaves the DS11 with the advance locked.
My big question is without a knock sensor it really uses an advance curve that i might calibrate on a regular carbureted engine.
Where an engine with a knock sensor can achieve optimum advance.
You will get better fuel mileage because of better fuel atomization. Bill
However a DUI or a HEI produces a dirty signal & cannot be used.
That leaves the DS11 with the advance locked.
My big question is without a knock sensor it really uses an advance curve that i might calibrate on a regular carbureted engine.
Where an engine with a knock sensor can achieve optimum advance.
You will get better fuel mileage because of better fuel atomization. Bill
The Boss is Back
see viewtopic.php?f=51&t=81515
There are Ford external prox sensors that do the job that Holleys very good technical service page just cannot work through.
Later 36-1 V6 Taurus or 3.8 Essex 90 or early Duralast that Will need an iron Three spike adaptor made.
Simple 1980-1984 5.0 LITER EECIII or 5.8 liter 351M EECII "ECA" sensor
Ford is really clever, but TFi has some major issues because its not understood well. It was born as an external "Hall" crank sensor EECIII but DuraSpark Brown Box DS II system in the 5.0 CFi /5.8/6.6liter 2-bbl 1980-1984 Lincolns, 83-84 Mercury Cougars's and 83-84 CA Tbirds and some/most 351M and 400 California Bronco's and F-trucks and E-vans.
Just single synchronized Spark only system .
My solution is to use the 5.0 6-1/2 inch iron reluctor wheel and the you can use the stock Duraspark, and control the spark with an early 1980 to 1985 Crank Position sensor with 3 prongs instead of four. The truck and passenger stuff was indexed around a 6-1/2" Crank Position Sensor with four prongs and a C1963 control system found under Duralast SU213.
All the Holley guys who have been trying to invoke brain dead 1 and 2-bbl throttle body EFi have been scratching their heads to understand how the early Hall effect works.
Since the harmonic balancer is 6-3/4" on everything, the 80-84, external D2-II Crank triggered parts can be used to fix up a TFi that isn't Dual Synch.
or 6C315
/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=67718
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums ... 63/page-38
see viewtopic.php?f=51&t=81515
There are Ford external prox sensors that do the job that Holleys very good technical service page just cannot work through.
Later 36-1 V6 Taurus or 3.8 Essex 90 or early Duralast that Will need an iron Three spike adaptor made.
Simple 1980-1984 5.0 LITER EECIII or 5.8 liter 351M EECII "ECA" sensor
Ford is really clever, but TFi has some major issues because its not understood well. It was born as an external "Hall" crank sensor EECIII but DuraSpark Brown Box DS II system in the 5.0 CFi /5.8/6.6liter 2-bbl 1980-1984 Lincolns, 83-84 Mercury Cougars's and 83-84 CA Tbirds and some/most 351M and 400 California Bronco's and F-trucks and E-vans.
Just single synchronized Spark only system .
My solution is to use the 5.0 6-1/2 inch iron reluctor wheel and the you can use the stock Duraspark, and control the spark with an early 1980 to 1985 Crank Position sensor with 3 prongs instead of four. The truck and passenger stuff was indexed around a 6-1/2" Crank Position Sensor with four prongs and a C1963 control system found under Duralast SU213.
All the Holley guys who have been trying to invoke brain dead 1 and 2-bbl throttle body EFi have been scratching their heads to understand how the early Hall effect works.
Since the harmonic balancer is 6-3/4" on everything, the 80-84, external D2-II Crank triggered parts can be used to fix up a TFi that isn't Dual Synch.
or 6C315
/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=67718
thsameguy":ejn6uvu1 said:Thought I'd follow up on this.
I ended up sending my crank pulley out to Miller's Mule in Katy, TX. Jason Miller designed a trigger wheel to bolt onto the pulley and get me what EDIS expects:
Image="http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/falcon_trigger_wheel2_sm.jpg"
The price was a very reasonable $120 - if anyone is looking for something like this, he has the design now and could sure make more of them. It should bolt to either a single-belt or double-belt pulley, but obviously would prevent you from running a third belt for power steering or AC.
I was concerned that wheel would interfere with the fan, but it doesn't. Unfortunately, the attaching hardware does:
Image="http://www.sacsaabs.org/sacsaabs.org/misc/falcon_trigger_wheel4_sm.jpg"
I'm not concerned about this right now since I won't be running EDIS anytime in the immediate future. I just wanted to have all the pieces designed and available while the motor was out of the car. At this point, I just want to get the car back on the road for the warm months - I'll get back to this once the rain comes back.
I am going to pick up some button head bolts to see if they cure the fan->trigger interference, but if not I will just remove the trigger wheel for now. When I actually move forward with it, I'll either get a slightly thinner radiator and space the fan out from the pulley, or convert over to an electric fan.
Tonight I am going to finish the bracket that will hold the crank sensor to see if it adds any more interference to consider, but it's pretty slim so I should be ok. I'll get some pictures up of that this weekend.
Only things left to figure out (which aren't important now) are what spark plug wires to use, and what MAP sensor to buy. The whole thing will come in substantially under $500, which I think is cheap money for a fully-programmable solid state ignition system that can be as aggressive or as economical as I want it to be. Not to mention built entirely using cheapo '90s era Ford parts that any parts store will carry.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums ... 63/page-38
CarMichael Angelo":ejn6uvu1 said:The car won today.
6 hours and all I have to show for it it a pic of the crank trigger wheel installed. temporary_zpse2249527.jpg
"https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/attachments/temporary_zpse2249527-jpg.114911/"
This stupid balancer has been on/off the engine about 6 times. I started out solely intending to mount it behind the balancer, but the dilemma was trying to properly locate the thing so I could. The machinist used the front balancer hub to reference off of, and that was way too big when I flipped the thing around. I did finally manage to locate it, and drill (4)10-24 holes in the outer ring of the balancer.
I painted it, mounted it up, and reinstalled the balancer.
It hit the timing cover.
Back off it came, and I di cked around trying to mount it on the front instead. That proved to be a no-go because of the balancer I bought from Summit. It's flat faced, and comes with a big steel pilot hub that goes in the front to use as a locator for a crank pulley. You beat this thing in the balancer, install the pilot, and then you use a big honkin' snap ring that came w/ the balancer to hold the pilot shaft in.
After that your supposed to be able to install the pulley over the snap ring to jam that assembly together. All of that left no room for that crank trigger wheel up front, so I fell back to the original plan. It looked to me like it was hitting the timing cover at the crank pilot, because it was sticking proud of the rest of the cover. So I cut the hell out of the crank trigger so it would get past that, and tried again.
The screws were now hitting the oil pan lip. Off it came again.
I ground the heads of the screws, and beat on the oil pan lip, and reinstalled it. It cleared.
temporary_zpsfd01cedd.jpg
"https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/attachments/temporary_zpsfd01cedd-jpg.114912/"
Now as I write this I realized that I have installed the snap ring on the wrong side of that pulley. There is absolutely nothing holding it in the front of the balancer, so I still am not done w/ this damn thing.
I also don't know if that little assed pulley is gonna charge the alternator, I may have to go the route that Scott went @RacEoHolic330, and get one custom made.
Wow, they finally made a 1bbl Sniper. Looks lie they made the small bore version though. And it looks like they have also released a hyperspark efi distributor for the falcon six!
https://www.holley.com/products/fue.../sniper_efi/hyperspark_ignition/parts/565-315
That's even better news! That will make efi timing control plug and play for our little sixes.
https://www.holley.com/products/fue.../sniper_efi/hyperspark_ignition/parts/565-315
That's even better news! That will make efi timing control plug and play for our little sixes.
$1000 for this whole shebang then? Any reports back on reliability, performance, durability?
Matt has 1/2 I believe...
Any off the shelf for the 300? (well, yeah, ford's own, last 12 yrs of production I'd say)
Matt has 1/2 I believe...
Any off the shelf for the 300? (well, yeah, ford's own, last 12 yrs of production I'd say)
chad":3t11kh27 said:
Holley has an EFI Hyperspark distributor for the 300cid, Part #565-318.
Holley also makes a 2Bbl Sniper EFI BBD for the inline 6 Jeep that supports up to 350HP.
You may be able to retrofit one of these on a stock intake manifold.
Or you could use one of their 4Bbl TBIs on a 4Bbl manifold, or one of their MPFI systems.
Holley's Terminator X EFI system for a V8 can be used on a 6cyl or even 4cyl engine.