66 200 mild street engine build

Hi guys,

Looking for some wisdom and incite. I posted a while back about a cylinder head search and thankfully I found a suitable donor (E0BE-BB Large Log). I then pulled the engine from my 66 coupe and found that the top compression rings for cylinders 4,5 and 6 were split inhalf and my thrust main bearing was basically non existent but no damage to crank all measurements check out. I guess that explains the lack of compression, misfiring, oil burning and lack of power.
The Plan:
Cleanup block, deck it to 0.01 deck clearance and hone cylinders. very little wear and no scoring (boring not req'd). install cam bearings and freeze plugs.
Head: mill large log head to achieve a 50cc combustion chamber. this combined with my 0.01 deck clearance and stock piston and felpro gasket will net about 9.3 to 9.5 to 1 compression. install port divider and mill log to accept the adaptor plate for a 2 barrel weber (32/36), three angle valve job, bronze valve guides, viton seals, 302 valve springs and back cut intake valves (not exhaust). i will also be gasket matching/ porting the exhaust, I don't plan to touch the intake ports, maybe ill clean up some casting flash and roughness but no major work.
I already have a header and dual 2 inch exhaust with x-pipe and a DUI street strip ignition and solid lifter 170 adjustable rockers (1.5 ratio).
after all that my question is Camshaft selection: I've done my research and how i will be driving this car(2000-5000 rpm MAX!!) and I have arrived at two camshaft options. Also ,I have a C4 Auto with stock converter but will be putting in a shift kit. My two cam choices are a vintage inlines 264/274 110 LSA (SKU: CSC-264274-HDP-100 or a Schneider 262/270 110 LSA (262-70H) in conjunction with an adjustable double roller chain and gears.
I'm looking for opinions or advice on my potential camshaft choices or other recommendations/experiences. Has anyone run these cams in a mild street build? I'm not drag racing, I'm cruising and giving it some get up and go. Don't mind a lopey idle as long as its not nauseating cause I do daily this in the summer to work.

Thanks guys, sorry this was long but I wanted make sure I made the build goals/plan clear so I could get accurate suggestions.

If you use a Victor head gasket its .044"compressed. Just a little thinner than the Felpro.
I would go with the Schneider camshaft & you will probable need to get their springs cause they will have more tension than what you have. Advance camshaft 2 degrees.
You DUI needs to not only be recurved for your application, but correct the under oiling condition which might result in shaft scoring or possible seizing.
I can fix your DUI. $115.00 plus parts & shipping. wsa111 Bill billythedistributorman@live.com

Decent plan! is that a .010 a block deck cut or piston to deck measureing a Posative or Negative piston height? If it's Positive (out the hole) and using a .050 FelPro then can work! If it's negative (down the hole) since your going to all the effort to mill / deck the block I would at least go to a Zero deck or even a + Positive (a little above the deck), to get the "Quench Distance" in the optimum range of.035 to .050. Ie this is the piston height to the block deck plus the head gasket crush thickness. A stock 1965 to 1969 200 short block that's never been rebuilt usally has a measurement of .019 piston down the hole if the the block has been rebuilt this can be .030 down the hole. Is your block still togeather so you can measure the number 1 and number 6 piston heights or did you happen to measure them? What grade fuel will you be using? Best of luck on the rebuild.

like the suggestions in #3 above. I'd NOT use the DUI (quality, results) but the whole DSII many 'racers' use ( ur by the '64 break yr. Also can up grade to '68 + carb/dizzy - no LOM/SCV).
CC the head, measure true deck (decision info) but the other spect you've listed seem reasonable!

If U go 2v direct mount let us know who machines (& look on our forum for that as there may be a local referral If ya got none. Good or bad results make an entry there as well). 8)

Hope 4 posts is not too late to say
W E L C O M E !!!
to the site and best ford i6 forum available!

I measured down and the piston is on average 0.019 to 0.02 "in" the hole (below the deck). if i use stock pistons (6.5 cc dish) will i run into piston to valve clearance if i zero deck the block.

No it shouldn't be a problem. Which head gasket do you plan to use?

The engine gasket kit from Vintage Inlines comes with a Felpro which is 0.05 compressed thickness. I know people say get a victor which is 0.044 but its just more convenient for me to use the one from the kit.
Also any insight on my camshaft selection or do you have recommendations for my build plan?
thanks

Sounds like it's a good short block that is still has the factory pistons and a .019 to .020 cut will be good. I have no problem with using FelPro head gaskets they are very good and I have used them for severial decades. The combo of parts helps to determine the machineing amount needed. My being a native of California until 8 years ago I agree with Bill about Schindler Cams being a great choice in fact you can even call Jerry and discuss your build plain and he will also give you a recommendation and even custom grind you a cam for about the same cost as an off the shelve cam grind. One thing though fore sure the stock C4 torque won't be a good fit for any thing but a stock cam or aftermarket cams that are just as tame.

awesome thank you for the tips. As for the torque converter, what type of issues will i run into? will the car be undrivable/ or will it be really sluggish or jerky? Im used to manuals so the side effects of camshafts on torque converters is new to me. any advice or help is great.

The stock six torque convertor is usally a bit too tight i.e. not enough stall speed this effects your take off from a stop. Because the cam will be raising the power level to a higher RPM, so It will be a bit sluggish on take offs but it will still be able to drive. A higher stall speed would help the car take off better. also Depends on what you like or want the car to do.

Thanks so much. so, the car will be drivable but i wont be taking full advantage of the camshaft. Thanks so much for the help. Also whats the best way to contact jerry from schneider cams? is there an email or phone number for him somwwhere?

You could also try the torque convertor first to see if you like it. Yes you can call or email him see below link for more info. Edited

Schneider Cams
http://schneidercams.com/contact-us.aspx

I think thats gonna be my plan, drive it with the stock converter and see how it goes. Thanks for all of the help!

Your quite welcome be sure to let us know how everything turns out,

Hi, if you are thinking about re-using the stock pistons take a close look at the ring lands and measure ring to land clearance on any new or used pistons. If you are using chrome moly rings you need a fine hone and smooth cylinder walls.
Get the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook from Vintage Inlines. There is a very good section on cleaning up the ports and bowls on the head, not a major port job. Before putting any effort into the head make sure it is not cracked in the center exhaust port.
Good luck