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Anonymous
Guest
will a 250 crank fit into a 200 block to make like a streoker kit like when they put a 383 crank into a 350 to make a 383 stroker somthing like that will it fit yea or na thanks
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Anonymous
Guest
I don't think this is possible.
Instead find a 221 motor from Australia get it shipped here. Adam(Addo) knows these engines well he has sent/is sending a 221 to one of the members here. Give it a shot, I have some Aussie wrecker's phone numbers if you're interested.
From what I understand this has the same configuration as the US 200 block but the 21 extra cubes give it a little more torque but still retains the 200's buzziness.
DB
Instead find a 221 motor from Australia get it shipped here. Adam(Addo) knows these engines well he has sent/is sending a 221 to one of the members here. Give it a shot, I have some Aussie wrecker's phone numbers if you're interested.
From what I understand this has the same configuration as the US 200 block but the 21 extra cubes give it a little more torque but still retains the 200's buzziness.
DB
This has been discussed several times and the answer always comes up "NO". The reasons I have read were that if you look at the 200 camshaft it had to be notched to provide adequate clearance for a stock setup. There are also a couple other threads out on the forum like this one
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=170
There is/was another thread, but I cant find it right now
ron
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=170
There is/was another thread, but I cant find it right now
ron
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Anonymous
Guest
I don't have any idea about the camshaft clearance, but the journal size is no issue. Back in the seventy's, Bill Jenkins, of Chevy pro stock fame used a little trick to run the prefered small journal cranks in the stronger large journal blocks, it follows...
Find the 250 block that you want to run.
Buy a set of .020 undersize bearings, take them out of the box and scrape all the babbit off of them and install them in the block and caps.
Drill an 1/8" hole thru the shell into the cap and block (on the oposite side from the oil hole of course) and install a roll pin.
Now you have a block, when the caps are installed that has a main cap bore of 2.378 plus the babbit thats missing. now go talk to your friendly engine machine shop and tell them you want the block line bored to 2.4016.
Now you have a 250 block that will accept a set of 200 bearings and therfore crankshaft.
If you read this procedure and think I'm off my rocker, it's detailed in Jenkins' book The Chevorlet Racing Engine, and it was good for 2 hp per ci in 1976..
Find the 250 block that you want to run.
Buy a set of .020 undersize bearings, take them out of the box and scrape all the babbit off of them and install them in the block and caps.
Drill an 1/8" hole thru the shell into the cap and block (on the oposite side from the oil hole of course) and install a roll pin.
Now you have a block, when the caps are installed that has a main cap bore of 2.378 plus the babbit thats missing. now go talk to your friendly engine machine shop and tell them you want the block line bored to 2.4016.
Now you have a 250 block that will accept a set of 200 bearings and therfore crankshaft.
If you read this procedure and think I'm off my rocker, it's detailed in Jenkins' book The Chevorlet Racing Engine, and it was good for 2 hp per ci in 1976..
A
Anonymous
Guest
Sorry guys,
I just realized you want to go the other way around...
250 crank in the 200 block
well that one you'll have to figure out
but I think I'd go the other way.
the rod ratio can only get worse in the 200 block.
I just realized you want to go the other way around...
250 crank in the 200 block
well that one you'll have to figure out
but I think I'd go the other way.
the rod ratio can only get worse in the 200 block.