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Heating and gear problems

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Heating and gear problems

Post #1 by Guest » Mon Nov 11, 2002 1:10 pm

Sup my fellow falconians, Well i managed to fit a 250 with a C4 in my 61 ranchero of course with few modifications, However i still have two problems,

1- i have kept the orginal two row radiator with two pushing fans outside but it still runs hot and i'm not using a thermostat, and cant fit the orignal fan in the front.

2- my gears are way too high, any suggestions on what kind of gears i can use or rear end where i dont have to do extra work just bolt on. by the way i want to keep my 4 lugs set up.

:roll: any ideas?

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Post #2 by MustangSix » Mon Nov 11, 2002 1:57 pm

First, try putting a thermostat back in. Sometimes the lack of restriction will cause overheating.

If that two row is in good shape, it should cool a 250, at least marginally.
Jack Collins


Post #3 by Guest » Mon Nov 11, 2002 2:52 pm

i had a thermostat in there but took it off cause it was going past half marker, so i figured to try it with out it


Post #4 by Guest » Mon Nov 11, 2002 3:31 pm

How cool was it running with the old engine?

I had an overheating problem with my Ford Torino after I yanked the tired 302 and put in a hot 351... Here the rad was all crudded up and rusty - I had it changed over to a 3 row in the process and it ran super cold and at idle in traffic it went to the middle of the gauge.


Post #5 by Guest » Mon Nov 11, 2002 3:34 pm

with the 170 it went to the middle of the gauge in traffic at idle.

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Too Hot

Post #6 by Hot 6t Falcon » Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:18 pm

Well, you wanted a hotter engine....

Sorry, I couldn't resist. I drill a small (1/8 inch) hole in the top of my thermostat to let the air in the head bleed out when I am adding antifreeze/water. If I don't do that, I can't get the last 3 quarts of water in the radiator.

Next, are you certain the lower radiator hose is in good shape? Old, mushy ones will collapse under the suction created by the water pump at higher engine speeds.

A standard tranny '61 Ranchero should have a 3.50 gear in the rear.

Good Luck
Dennis Schjeldahl, (say Shell-doll)
Co-Author of The Ford Falcon Performance Handbook


Post #7 by Guest » Tue Nov 12, 2002 4:08 pm

:idea: i had a problem with high temperature after my install. changed to a 3 row radiator, no change. it went away the first time i turned my heater on. seems that i had some trapped air or something in the heater core. suddenly cleared up but i didn't know what caused my water level to be low untill i put 2 & 2 together the next day. guage is a tick under half & has worked great ever since.


Post #8 by Guest » Tue Nov 12, 2002 4:15 pm

Well i'm using all new hoses, because of the clearance on my pully to radiator they claim i cant add another row. i took my radiator apart the bottom and clear all the channels today it ran at half from home to work. but it went close to 3/4 at one time. i want to get my temp lower cause during summer time i know i'll have problems being that is cool at this time and still gettin warm, I also have ran my heater and also replaced the hoses there with no luck, engine cant even drive on the freeway due to the gears, is revved up to high even on the street :idea: i'm thinkin i need to solve my gear problems too cause runnin it that high is creating more heat.

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Post #9 by Falcon62 » Tue Nov 12, 2002 8:10 pm

Tim - How much clearance do you have between your pulley and radiator? I have about 3/8" but that's with a 200 and a 2" core in my radiator (stock is 1.5").
Phil, USAF Retired
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'61 Futura 2dr
'62 Sports Futura, 200/C4

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Post #10 by rbohm » Wed Nov 13, 2002 1:54 am

8) check you timing, too much or too little will caus the motor to heat up.the only time my falcon gets more than i tick over the bottom of the normal range is when i climb the hill on a hot day coming back from the valley into the park.
64 falcon
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05 grand marquis

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Post #11 by Guest » Wed Nov 13, 2002 10:15 am

my clearance is about the same. my 200 came from a donor 66 mustang. also put in the c-4 at same time. when i went to the 3 row radiator, fan was nicking bottom edge. seems one of the blades was bent which explains why i had to replace the old water pump after only 300 miles. is it possible that you have the wrong thermastat or your current on is stuck open. has the engine been reworked. i had to go .030 on my rebuild. i've been told that that can make one run a small bit hotter. :?:


Post #12 by Guest » Thu Nov 14, 2002 3:21 pm

I agree with the theory on overboring and running hotter. I had a '63 comet with a rebuilt 170 and it ran hot all the time, although I don't know if it had the original radiator in it (most likely). Car color may not make a differance, but it was black and the interior was way hotter than my light blue falcon so I wouldn't be surprised if the black hood raised engine temp a bit as well. It also had low gears (3.20) and I think that contributed as it ran warmer on the freeway.

My sedan with tired 170 but newer radiator and 195 degree thermostat never overheats in the summer. In the 80's it runs like crap because the carb gets too hot, but the engine never overheats even when I went from the 3 speed to the c-4 running the fluid through the radiator cooler.

As for the gearing, your best bet is to find a four lug 8 inch rear found under the early mavericks- I think from '71 up. The early mustang rearends are a bit too wide for a roundbody, and have five lugs. I have not installed it yet, but am convinced that a 3.0 ratio is best for all around driving in our cars. I've had two cars with 3.2's , and while that's better than a 3.5 it's still to much rpm to cruise at 65-70 mph wich is what traffic does here.


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