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Parts car turned into a "runner"

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PhantomAce
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Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #1 by PhantomAce » Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:20 am

Well, I didn't get any takers for the '61 Ranchero parts car I had, and I've got this 17 year old son that needs a car, and he always wanted a "Ranchero" like the one I'm building, so...

The thing has been sitting for 8 years since I bought it for parts, and I've taken almost nothing off of it. But, I never heard it run, and didn't even know for sure that it would. So Tuesday evening we changed the oil & filter, put one of the batteries from my boat in it, hooked up a quick hot-wiring "Y" (couldn't find the keys for it), poured a little gas down the carb, and it fired up almost instantly!
Big cloud of black smoke blew out the back, but it started right up without touching the ignition. Test-1 passed.

Wednesday we popped the hub caps off so we could go get tires, and found a LUG-LOCK on each whell. Of course, I had no idea they were there, and didn't have a key to remove them. Time to get out the grinder... Ground 2 flats on each to get a 7/8" wrench on them, and took them off that way. Then, on to "Discount Tires" for some cheap 14" tires (70 series 195's) on the 14" 4-lug stocker rims. (Think they're off a Mustang, but not sure.) So, now it has shoes on it's feet.

Then Thursday evening we put a coffee can next to the driver front tire and ran a gas line from the fuel pump to it. Pump started leaking like a seive, so I had to donate one of the extra glass bowl pumps I had for my car to it. Had some line issues to deal with, and started it up again briefly. Fuel system "OK". Test-2 kind of passed.Then, we started filling it with water... suddenly had a trail of water coming down from between the head and the block at about cyl-3 or so. Test-3 FAIL.

Friday we pulled the exhaust out of the way,to get a better look and see where the water was leaking from. Turned out to be one of the 1" core plugs in the head under the intake log.

So... Saturday morning (yesterday) we pulled the head, then went to the parts store and got new 1-3/4" core plugs for the block and 1" core plugs for the head (all brass of course), a Felpro valve job gasket kit, and a new set of plugs, and a new T-stat. Took the head and valve cover to the local self-serve car wash and pressure washed them. Set up a makeshift bench to work from and started cleaning up the head. Put new valve seals in it, and dressed off most of the carbon build on the valves by chucking them up in a drill spinning them against a wire brush and then a green scrubbie. Hit the chambers with a soft wire brush in the drill, drove in the new core plugs and reassembled the head. Painted the head and the "Power-By-Ford" valve cover Ford Blue.

This morning we put all the core plugs in the block, cleaned off the mating surface for the head, installed the head, rocker, valve cover, carb, etc... Had the thing started up and idling on it's own by dinner time, just before dark.
It's got a little "miss", thinking it's either carb or ignition related. Most likely carb and/or a vacuum leak. That's OK though, because it has that garbage "Load-o-Matic"system on it, and I'd just as soon junk that anyway. I have a distributor and old Carter YF carb from mine that I'm not using, so we'll probably swap those in tomorrow, and then see how things go.
Even with the slight miss, it sat there and idled just fine, no leaks or knocks, no smoke.

But, in any case, 5 days ago it was a "parts car" destined to have choice pieces pulled and then probably crushed, and now, today, it's looking like it'll be put back in service, and even before the one that it was supposed to donate parts to.
My son is stoked, and he learned a lot the last few days too. We'll be chasing Gremlins in the electrical and what not next, which will be a pain I'm sure, but it was really cool to see the old junker come to life!

May post a couple of pictures once we get it a little further along.
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #2 by Thad » Mon Apr 12, 2010 8:58 am

The best--- a parts car revitalised, wheels for the kid, a training aid, a father/ son sharing project, and a six cylinder Falcon to boot. Can't ask for much more. :thumbup:
There are those who just dream,
and there are those who do more than dream. ><> = +

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #3 by ludwig » Mon Apr 12, 2010 10:44 am

I love it when an accidental plan comes together. Yay!!
Image

Livin' the dream. Dad n' daughter.

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #4 by CZLN6 » Mon Apr 12, 2010 10:59 am

Howdy Back Ace:

Cool! What engine is in the derelict? The "Powered by Ford" valve cover has me confused. Easily done these days. I hope you compensated for the difference in the thickness of the new head gasket or the engine will be down on compression.

Adios, David
co-author of the Falcon Performance Handbook
http://www.falcon6handbook.com/

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #5 by PhantomAce » Mon Apr 12, 2010 12:55 pm

David,

The block is a C8 casting 200-ci, and the head is a C9. So it seems like either they were mated at the factory in a 69 or later car, or they were put together later from two different cars. Really don't know for sure when it got put in during the 40+ years before I bought the car. The only thing we do know is that neither of them came in the car in 1961.

The tranny is a 3-on-the-tree, think it's the original 2.77, but really haven't looked at it that close yet. We've already decided that once we're ready to see if it can move under it's own power (tonight?), if there are any trans issues I'm just going to find a used C4 for it. I already have a driveshaft that'll fit a C4-to-stock rear from mine that should swap right in. (Mine now has a fresh 8" w/posi from a 63 Sprint in it, with a built V8 spec C4 tranny and a Clifford built 200, but luckily I haven't had the driveshaft cut to mate up to the 8" yet.)

As for compression, yeah, I know it will be down from using the composite gasket, but I'm not that concerned about it. I have another C8 casting block in my garage that was bored .030 and has an Isky cam in it that I put in my 61 Ranchero back in about 1983 or so. Only put about 3 or 4 thousand on that engine back then before it got parked less than a year later, so we're planning on getting the engine that's in the car going decent, and sorting out any other issues so my son has wheels for his summer job. Then, in the winter, freshening up the spare engine I have, getting a fresh head built for it, and swapping it in. That'll give me time to source a good E0 head for it and get a valve job and surface mill done on it in the meantime.

In any case, I'm just jazzed that the thing is breathing again, and actually quite amazed that it came to life so easily. Seems like you just can't kill these old sixes. At least not without a fight.

Oh, by the way, I've been having a hard time keeping track of my "Ford Six Performance Handbook" lately. Can't seem to get it back from my son for some reason...
:hmmm:
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #6 by LaGrasta » Mon Apr 12, 2010 1:32 pm

Great story, I love it! Question: If it's a '68 block, does the glass bowl fuel pump work? I thought that was only for the early year engines. I thought the arm is a different length.
1963 1/2 Falcon 170/C4/8" (alt, a/c, Petronix/42v coil/8mm wires, 16" electric fan, electric fuel pump, Holley 1940, K&N Harley air filter, power dual m/c, 11" disc, 3" drop, Shelby drop, white tuck/roll, Moon steering wheel, '59 Caddy tail lights, fishtail exhaust tip, shaved trim, handles, cowl, fuel, dash, 4" radius trunk/door corners, power windows, 600w iPod system)

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #7 by PhantomAce » Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:34 pm

LaGrasta:
The pump we took off had an arm that comes almost straight out the back, and shorter, but it had the arm oriented over the cam lobe I believe.
The glass bowl we put on does have a longer arm, but at rest it's oriented downward from the housing at about a 45-degree angle.
So, nearest I could tell, it was just a matter of the lobe actuating it a little later in the cam rotation.
We bolted it up, and it appears to be pumping just fine...
However, given what you said, I think we may pop it back off and take a look to make sure there aren't any little "shiny's" on it in the wrong places. Regardless, it seems to be pumping properly. (We poured about 3-1/2 gallons or so in the tank last night, and I put a metal filter before the pump, and a clear plastic right after it so we could see when fuel got to the pump, and the plastic filter was filled within about 3 seconds or so.)

Something for me to take a second look at though, thanks for the heads up!
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #8 by rbohm » Mon Apr 12, 2010 8:17 pm

8) good job ace, though i have one bit of advice. rather than track down all the electrical issues, do yourself a huge favor and get an aftermarket universal 12 circuit wiring harness, they are available starting at $150 depending on where you find them check the speedway motors catalog as a start, and rewire the car from bumper to bumper. this will give you the new style fuses, eliminate the fuse box on the headlight switch, and give you son an education on rewiring a car. you will likely have to change out some switches on the dash to make this work, but in the end the effort is worth it.
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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #9 by PhantomAce » Tue Apr 13, 2010 2:40 am

rbohm:
I'm putting a "Painless" wiring harness in mine (already have it), but... this car is on a kid's budget.
That means high labor, low cost to make it practical.
So, I've kept all of the wiring from mine, and if we run into any issues, then we'll "merge" them trying to keep it simple and cheap.
The car has no A/C, no stereo, or electric windows, door locks, etc...
Basically, trying to do this one basic and on the cheap. So, as much as I agree with the idea of doing a new harness, for this car it just isn't practical on a 17-year old kids budget.
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #10 by PhantomAce » Wed Apr 14, 2010 10:58 pm

Update:

Alright... we picked up a universal throttle linkage at AutoZone on Monday, and worked out how to configure that. But, the plate under the YF carb we decided to use was cracked, set it aside until I have time to clean it up, use a little "J-B Weld" on it, and let it sit.

Tuesday I cobbled up the throttle linkage bends at the carb mount, made some mounting studs with a couple 3/8" bolts and the grinder, cleaned up the base plate and J-B'd it back together.

Today (Wednesday): Sanded the carb base plate flat to take off the J-B excess, did some tweaks on the throttle cable bracket at the carb. Made a new bracket to carry the other end of the cable, painted and installed it. Put the carb back on, adjusted the cable, fired it up.
The "new" owner (my 17 year old) got to get in and drive the car a few feet each way (rev & first gear only sitting in my RV parking) for the first time in Lord knows how long under it's own power!

The carb does apparently need a rebuild kit (no accelerator pump action, tries to stall giving it throttle under load), but other than that, no leaks or issues. Going to pull the carb again tomorrow afternoon and see if AutoZone can get a rebuild kit for it, and if so, do a quick carb clean up and accelerator pump in it.

Also, started checking lights/electrical. The headlights (high and low beam), brake lights, tail-lights and turn signals at the rear appear to work. No horn or turn signals at the front, going to have to sort those out yet. Also, doesn't seem to have any gauges working right now. But, in general, so far it is better than I thought it would be.

It's noisy as far as rattles, but the exhaust is pretty quiet, and absolutely no smoke out of the tail-pipe or engine compartment whatsoever.

Progress...
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #11 by SteveS » Thu Apr 15, 2010 9:59 am

What a fun project. My son and I fixed up a 66 GMC much like your Falcon. He still misses that old truck today. These are valuable times for you and your son. He'll never forget the experience and neither will you.

I love it. Keep the news coming.
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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #12 by LaGrasta » Thu Apr 15, 2010 11:11 am

You're making real progress, fantastic!
1963 1/2 Falcon 170/C4/8" (alt, a/c, Petronix/42v coil/8mm wires, 16" electric fan, electric fuel pump, Holley 1940, K&N Harley air filter, power dual m/c, 11" disc, 3" drop, Shelby drop, white tuck/roll, Moon steering wheel, '59 Caddy tail lights, fishtail exhaust tip, shaved trim, handles, cowl, fuel, dash, 4" radius trunk/door corners, power windows, 600w iPod system)

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #13 by Bradbutlernc » Fri Apr 16, 2010 12:20 am

Autozone has the carb kit you need, but make sure you take in the gaskets to match them up to the carb kit, theyll sell you the wrong one in a hurry. What carb are you rebuilding? The 1100 or the YF? I have a very nice top end to a YF carb if youre having issues with yours.
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Flowmaster 40 Dual Exhaust

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #14 by PhantomAce » Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:24 am

My apologies for not getting back to everyone in a timely manner. I changed the e-mail address on my profile yesterday morning, and I didn’t realize it would lock my account up for a while. My bad…

Brad:
Thanks for the offer, but… I already took apart the YF we had yesterday, cleaned it up, reassembled, and its working great! I had bought a rebuild kit locally yesterday afternoon, but I hadn’t opened it yet, so they took it back this afternoon, no problem. Got a set of formed upper & lower radiator hoses for it instead.
Older Brother has an early 70’s Maverick (‘73?) that he is converting from a 250 to a 351-W, and he’s giving me the giving me YF off of it as a spare, and the air cleaner, just in case.

Progress:

OK, yesterday I pulled the YF carb off again, ripped it apart and cleaned it up internally, and reassembled. The accel-pump seems to be working OK now, and no housing leaks, still. But, the bracket I made at the body appears to have too much flex, so I’m going to have to reinforce it to achieve crisp/consistent response. Will deal with that tomorrow.
Yesterday we pulled the car out of the backyard/RV parking under its own power and onto the street, removed the Mustang-II front clip sitting in the bed that I originally had destined for mine (when I was planning on a 351-W years ago) from the back of it with the cherry picker. I know it doesn’t sound like much, but that was a chore. Brother came by and picked it up from me last night and we dropped it into the back of his truck just before sunset. (Long story, later…).

Going to put the doors back on tomorrow, and start cleaning up the body and get it ready for a quick paint job. Needs some serious work on the roof (someone sat on it years ago apparently), but other than that, weld the usual cracks at the vent window, fix a little rust in one ¼-panel, address a feew road dings, shoot it in primer, and it should be good enough. I figure we have about 2-3 weeks on/off worth of work in the evenings to get it ready to throw a quick coat of paint on.

Will blast a coat of ’97 F-150 white on it and call it “good enough”. Later we’ll probably buff out the panels and shoot the ’97 beige into the crease along the sides and around the taillights. May not be “show quality”, but should look decent.

Still trying to decide if it’s going to have bucket seats or leave the bench seat that is there in it or not.
Here’s the quandary: The bench seat is “all there”, but… it needs foam and upholstery. Meanwhile, I already have a really sweet console for mine, AND a spare console. Do we sell/trade the “spare” console to get funds to redo the bench, or do we keep the console and look for a reasonable set of buckets to go with it?
Decisions, decisions…

Will advise after this weekend’s fiasco/fun unfolds…
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #15 by PhantomAce » Sun Apr 18, 2010 10:42 pm

Alright, not as much progress as we would have liked this weekend.

Tried to bleed the brakes, fronts bled well enough, but we appear to have a plug somewhere in the lines to the rears. Took the bleeders all the way off both rears and hit the brakes, not a drop out of them, and still getting pressure on the pedal.
Disconnected the rear line at the MC, and got fluid out of the port there. Neither of the rears are pumping up, so best guess is it would have to be common to both, so would have to be in the line between the MC and the "T" at the rear axle.
Tried to get the fitting cracked loose at the rubber flex-line going into the T at the axle, but its not budging. So, we're soaking it in good old WD-40 periodically, hoping it'll soak up enough that we can break it loose next few days and figure out if the plug is in the line from the MC, the rubber flex line to the T, the T itself, or (least likely) the metal lines from the T to the drums...
Seriously considering just doing the dual chamber MC and new lines right now, but need to research the right pieces as far as fittings go to mate up with the later models MC first.

Been fighting with trying to rebuild the door hinges without a press, not happening... (see new thread). And, not having any luck accomplishing anything there except skewering myself in the hand with a screwdriver being an idiot...

Only good thing is we got the panel behind the front bumper / between the front fenders back on today, and then the grill mounted and the "correct" turn signals hooked up again. Oh, and I found the disconnect in the dash for the temp gauge. It's working now. Car warms up until the needle hits the lower edge of the circle in the center of the gauge, and then drops just a tad. (Which is when I think the T-stat is opening.) Still only sitting at idle, but it holds that gauge reading even if left idling for 10 minutes afterward.

Starting to look like a complete car again, except for the lack of doors on it of course.
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #16 by PhantomAce » Mon Apr 19, 2010 11:32 pm

Rebuilt the driver's door hinges tonight.
Decided not to stress out about the pins holding the check-strap in place and just left the old strap pieces and pins there. Simply re-drilled the holes to 5/16" where the pivoting rivot on the check-strap was (no longer there) and put a grade-8 bolt (1"x5/16") in there with loc-tite on the nut. Everything clears, and should hold well enough.
Had to drill out the old bushings in the center of the hinge, and the hole at the top of the hinge-pin was so sloppy the new pin would just drop in place and flop around. So much for a "drive-in" fit.
So, I drilled the top out for a brass bushing to fit tight there as well, and then drove the pin home sinking it into the bushing and spreading it out tight.
The new spring and tightening everything up appears to have made a huge difference on the operation of the lower hinge.

The upper hinge was pretty straight forward, but also required a brass bushing be driven in the top to tighten it up.
Shoud be OK in theory, we'll see how it works in practice tomorrow or the next day, and then tackle the passenger door hinges.
(Haven't re-hung the door yet, want to clean it up and paint the hinges tomorrow first.)

So much for the hinge rebuild kits I bought for "my" Ranchero project. Guess I'll need to get another set from FalconParts.com, and some extra bushings.

Bought a complete used grill on e-bay last week, and it was delivered today.
What a mess...
The idiot seller cobbled up 2 cardboard boxes together big enough to ship the grill, and then didn't even bother to at least label it "fragile" on the outside. So... UPS stacked something on top of it, flattening the grill out substantially. The main section is pretty much irrepairable.
Thankfully the turn-signal housings and headlight doors are "OK", but the grill and lenses are completely toasted.
Truth be known, I have another grill already, and an NOS set of turn signal lenses, so I really only needed the doors and sockets, but would have been nice to have the better grill, as the one I put in the car yesterday was the "excellent" grill I had that was originally destined for my car. And, if I didn't want the main section, then I wouldn't have paid the extra to ship that big piece. So, now I have to battle a seller over it I guess.
It never ends it seems...

Plan tomorrow is for me to tackle the support for the throttle linkage, try to tighten it up, while my son (the new owner of the car) strips down and primes the driver door hinges and re-hangs the door. Hopefully I'll have some extra daylight time to start chasing down some of the electrical "bugs" too.

Will advise as things progress.
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #17 by LaGrasta » Thu Apr 22, 2010 10:44 am

little by little…
1963 1/2 Falcon 170/C4/8" (alt, a/c, Petronix/42v coil/8mm wires, 16" electric fan, electric fuel pump, Holley 1940, K&N Harley air filter, power dual m/c, 11" disc, 3" drop, Shelby drop, white tuck/roll, Moon steering wheel, '59 Caddy tail lights, fishtail exhaust tip, shaved trim, handles, cowl, fuel, dash, 4" radius trunk/door corners, power windows, 600w iPod system)

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #18 by PhantomAce » Thu Apr 22, 2010 4:31 pm

Well, the weather has been "uncooperative" the last 2 days. Windy as all get out yesterday, and windy and raining today. So, not much progress on the car itself (as it is "outside"), but a little bit of progress in general.
The driver door hinges are primed and painted, will be doing the passenger door hinges tonight if all goes as planned.
Started sorting out the SROD I have in the garage. Have everything but the shifter, and upon opening the case and getting a look inside the gears look good. No shavings or any other issues I can see in the bottom of the case, no weird wear patterns on anything. Appears to be the same length as the C4 in mine, and I already have a driveshaft the right length for that trans with a stock rearend, yoke appears to fit the SROD output, so if I can find a shifter for it and set up a cable linkage for the clutch, then we will likely put it in the car.
I think it's going to be necessary, as the throw-out bearing on the existing clutch is making noise, and if I have to pull it down for a new clutch, then I'm not going to put the 50-yr old 3-spd back in unless I absolutely have to.
May swap to a T-5 if I can get a good deal on one and haven't had any luck sourcing the shifter for the SROD, but we'll see what happens over next several days. At least we already have the SROD bellhousing and flywheel, so the T5 should be easy at that end anyway.

After much debate, it has been decided that we're going to paint the car "Oxford White" (same color as my '97 F-150) for a few reasons.
A) The car doesn't have A/C, and no idea when it will have it, so lighter is better in the Las Vegas heat.
B) Will be a little more forgiving on the bodywork I think.
C) I was planning on repainting my truck this summer anyway, so economies of scale tell me it will be cheaper shooting them both the same color.

Will likely try to knock most of the bodywork out over next couple weeks, then prime it and simply rattle-can the Oxford White on as a base coat. That will give us a base to block-sand to later, minimizing the amount needed to cover when we spray it right later, and it should still look decent enough for a kid's car in between.
(I had to fix the side of my truck last year where it was peeling substantially on the driver's side of the cab and door. Took a weekend, pulled the 1/4-window, taped off the rest, and rattle canned it. If you didn't know better, looking at it right now you would never know the difference of where the quick-spray I did hits the original paint. Only reason I'm going to repaint the whole truck soon is, simply, 150-k+ miles worth of wind erosion on the nose and a few door dings that need addressing.)
Interior is going to eventually be the original "Palomino", but that'll come further down the road, as the soft parts (door panels, seat skins and carpet) are kind of expensive. But, at least now we know that the seat belts we order need to work with that color.

Probably going to need to source some bucket seats for it, as I don't think the shifter of the SROD, or possible T5, is going to cooperate with a bench seat. That likely also precludes using the "spare" bread-box console I have, so I may have that up for grabs soon, still deciding. Possibly try to trade it here on the board for some of the parts we need for the car going forward.
I'm OK with that, because we're planning on putting a late-80's/early-90's Mustang e-brake in the car, and that would be in the way of the console as well.

In any case, getting back on topic, plan for tomorrow and this weekend is to start on the bodywork, chase down some electrical demons, and maybe tracking down parts needed.
My son goes to a magnet school with an extensive transportation curriculum, so we're probably going to have them re-do the plumbing on the brakes front to back and put in a dual-reservoir MC out of a '67 Mustang drum/drum system. Want to try to get it ready to make a trip there for that work as soon as possible.
Once that is done, and the seat belts have been installed, and we have sorted the electrical a little bit, then it should "theoretically" be road worthy.
We'll see how it goes, and if the weather will cooperate in the meantime. Want to get as much done this weekend as we can, as I'm taking both my sons on a fishing trip next weekend with their favorite cousin that just returned home from Iraq, so nothing will get done next weekend.
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #19 by PhantomAce » Fri Apr 23, 2010 1:52 am

Second update:

The weather cooperated a bit end of the day, so we got back under the dash...
Installed the old ignition switch and bezzle from my project car, and the new ignition lockset/tumbler I had bought years ago. Had to chase down a break in the ignition wiring, and BOOM, the car starts right up by key! (We were previously starting it with a screwdriver, as I didn't have keys, AND the old ignition was screwed up anyway.)
No pumping or choke work, just hit the key and it goes! (Doesn't sound like much, but trust me, this was a big deal, given that the choke is inoperable and we still haven't touched a thing in the distributor or changed the timing.)
"Thing-1" (the kid) now has a set of keys to "his" car, this was monumental.

The nice thing is I already have a matching-key doorlock set to go with the ignition.
The bad thing is... we're lacking the spring clips that hold the lock cylinders in the doors, guess we need to sort that part out yet...

Plan for tomorrow/this weekend is to:
A) Finish sorting the throttle linkage out (yeah, I know, I should have done that already, but I haven't yet, so sue me...)
B) Sort out the gremlins in the right turn signal (kind of works sometimes, kind of doesn't).
C) Get the generator working right (more electrical, oh yay...)

Oh... went to the gas station and got 3-1/2 gallons more gas, poured it in the tank, and the gas gauge pops up working! Reading almost 1/2-tank now, still need to find a proper locking gas cap for it though. (Noooo... , he's NOT getting my NOS gas cap, that would disappear in a hurry I'm sure.)

Found a choke stove on fleabay, >$14 shipped, should show up middle of the week, that will help a bit on drivability once we get it installed.
Son is meeting with the auto-shop instructor tomorrow to see what we need to do to get the car in for:
New brake lines, mill the drums and install shoes
Master Cylinder conversion
Front end bearing pack and possibly suspension rebuild
Clutch TO (if need be)

Once those things are handled, plus we sort the turn signals and install seat belts (Dad's requirement), then the car is ready for insurance, plates, and a new driver.
Will still need to improve on the lousy vacuum wipers, but that isn't a huge issue here in Las Vegas. If it's looking like rain, I can always have him take my truck or the wife's Explorer that day.

This is getting to be fun, which is 1/2 of the idea, after all. And. Thing-1 is learning, A LOT.
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #20 by ludwig » Fri Apr 23, 2010 9:52 am

That kind of project success and the bonding and lessons learned will last a long time. It's one of the best parts of being a father.
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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #21 by PhantomAce » Sat Apr 24, 2010 10:26 pm

Udpate:
Not a good day for the car...

Finished sorting out the throttle linkage, made an additional support bracket. Doesn't "look" fantastic, but it works. Anyway, over-torqued the end of the sheath for the throttle cable putting it back together, so another $25 donation to AutoZone for ANOTHER "universal" throttle cable kit. Got that, put everything back together, and the throttle was working much better, but still seemed to be hanging a bit, wouldn't return to idle consistently.
So, checked everything out again, and it turns out the throttle pedal was hanging up on it's hinge at the floor. Upon closer inspection determined that it was just badly corroded, first clue...
Went to pull out the lame, rusted out 11/32" bolts holding it to the floor, one came out, the other though, instead of the bolt turning, just turned a chunk of the floor.
Bad, bad omen.
Pulled all the carpet out, and the floor is swiss cheese.
Decided to fire up the gas powered compressor and get the needle-scaler out. Got all of the original carpet pad and loose pieces off to take a look.
The cab floor is absolutely shot, all 4 corners.
So, had a pow-wow with the son, time for a decision.
Do we want to tackle fixing the floor, or do we scrap the project?
Amazingly, he's game, we're going to try to fix it.
I'm not much of a welder, but my neighbor is (for a living actually). Went and asked his opinion, and he offered to help.
We're starting on the floor, one corner at a time tomorrow. Cut out to good metal, grind clean, use the old piece for a pattern, cut new to match and weld in. It's going to be a chore I think. At least I already have a 110-v mig welder w/bottle, a plasma cutter, and several versions of electric and air powered grinders and cutters. So, the tools are available, just a matter of deciding to get dirty and brave with it I guess.

Son is still stoked, and willing to put the effort in. He told me several times he wants to "save the car". So, I guess we'll see how it goes. The fun starts tomorrow morning...
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Falconman62
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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #22 by Falconman62 » Sat Apr 24, 2010 11:55 pm

That sounds really cool!

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #23 by mustang6 » Sun Apr 25, 2010 12:44 am

Deep down inside I think you must have wanted this to happen- you say you are not much of a welder but look at all the metal working equipment you have (MIG 110V w/gas, plasma cutter, etc.). I think you have been building up your tool inventory just waiting for a project like this! BTW, I'm doing the same thing.....
Scott

68 Mustang 200 ci, Aussie 250-2V head, Dual Headers, Comp Cams 252H, DSII w/MSD 6AL, T-5, V8 suspension.

65 Ranchero 200 ci, late 170 head, Autolite 1101, 3.03 3 speed, Maverick 8" 4 lug rear with 3.55 gears.

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #24 by PhantomAce » Sun Apr 25, 2010 2:36 am

mustang6:

Nawwww...
I bought that stuff to build MY car several years ago, but I still don't know how to work it, life just postponed things I guess.
I'm good with wrenches and elec... never had to weld a darn thing.
Still haven't done the floors on mine yet, I just "geared up" so I could do it, that's all, guess I'll be "learnin' and practicin'" on this car.

Good thing: If I can sort through the floors on this one, then mine will be a cinch.
Bad thing: It's my kid's car now, so I'm a little bit antsy, parent jitters and all.

We'll get through it, I'm confident that way, I can learn anything. But it's still a bummer dealing with a crash course in it right now.
Guess you can't always pick your battles though.
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #25 by PhantomAce » Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:01 pm

Alright...
No progress on the car itself today, but we got a lot of "stuff" done.
- Son and I spent the early morning cleaning up and organizing in the garage, putting tools away, getting rid of old packaging, cleaning up, etc... you get the idea I'm sure. Wanted to make sure that we had a flammable-item-free and clear area to work with the welder.
- Set up a temporary bench with a sheetmetal top in the garage to work from.
- Neighbor came over mid-morning, and we started sorting through the plasma cutter and welder. Come to find out the reason I couldn't get my plasma cutter working before is it was missing a part at the tip (shield) that it needs. Don't know "why" I don't have one, but the bottom line is I need one, so I'll pick one up at a welding supply shop tomorrow or Tuesday.
- Explained to him that I had been trying to use the welder, but we were having issues with it feeding the wire. He took a look made a few changes, we threw a new spool of wire on it, done, feeds fine. Adjusted the regulator for the Argon, and now the welder's working fine.
- Sooo... son and I spent a couple hours just running some beads on various thicknesses of stock and "practicing". The thin sheetmetal is going to take some finesse, need to practice a bit more for that, but the heavier stuff was pretty easy. I was worried that this little 110-v countertop unit wouldn't have enough output to get a good weld on anything heavy. Trust me, it will. I welded 2 pieces of 1x1 square tube with close to an 1/8" wall thickness into a mitered "L", and then we ground the welds off completely to get a look at the joint, and you can't even tell it was there. Absolutely 1 solid piece at the weld. Guess I don't have to worry about making my transmission crossmember anymore, this thing will handle it.

Now, it's just a matter of us practicing a bit more, getting the plasma cutter set-up next day or 2, and we should be hacking and wacking on the floor by mid-week. Hopefully get at least 1/4 or 1/2 of it done before we leave for our fishing trip on Friday afternoon. With a little luck we might be able to get it all done by then, but I'm not going to be overly optomistic.
Oh, and son had a lot of fun, the welder is his new best friend it seems. Hope he still likes it that much by the time we're done with his car's floor... If he does, then I'll cut him loose on the floor of mine next.
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #26 by ludwig » Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:14 pm

Can I be your son? Pleeeeze? **makes Bambi eyes**
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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #27 by PhantomAce » Tue Apr 27, 2010 1:22 am

ludwig:

Dunno if that would be a wise move on your part...
All you would inherit would be bills!
:lol:
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #28 by PhantomAce » Tue Apr 27, 2010 2:09 am

Alright, we're going to change gears a little bit here.

We're still going forward with the repair to the floors, but we took the time last night and this evening to analyze and get a plan of attack and implement it.
Has been decided that we're going to patch the floors in MY project car first, at least part of them, here's why:
A) The repairs needed are much smaller/easier, IMHO.
B) The car is already in the garage, readily accessible.
C) The floors are in good enough shape that we can use them to make "patterns" before we start cutting.
D) My welder, plasma cutter, and metal supply is all literally less than 6 feet away from the cab of mine right now.

We figure that we will take some cardboard and lay it out to my floors, and make full size patterns of each side from it. Then, we will use the driver toe-board as a "test" fix. The area necessary to repair is small enough that if we botch it, we can cut it out again and go with a bigger patch if needed fairly easily.
Then the passenger toe-board (probably the biggest fix), then both rear panels (only a couple small areas in each).
The general thought is that will give us a chance to get a flow going in a more controlled environment than on the driveway or in my RV parking next to the house, which are the conditions we will have to deal with working on my son's car.

Once we're happy with the repairs on mine, we'll take the patterns we made, cut them down to the specific sections we need, and start on the "project" car floors. Simply trying to be logical here and tackle a little more forgiving bit of work first to get a little experience behind us before we try to tackle the huge stuff.

As for progress today... we got absolutely zero actual shop work done. Instead, given the decision to get to work on my floors, we emptied out the bed and cab of mine last night and tonight and hit the interior floor with a shop vac.
This was necessary mainly because I only have a 2-car garage to work from, and as much as we try to stay somewhat organized, between tools, car parts, 2 refrigerators, various shelves and cabinets, and the car itself... well, it's kind of a tight area if you let things get out of hand.
So, I've had all my trim, a 2nd tailgate, and lots of parts stored in my car that we had to rearrange and find room for away from the car to get us working space. That took a bit of time, to say the least. But, at least now all my trim is in bubble-wrap and in one big box away from the car, most of the other parts have found a place on the shelves, and we have working room next to the car again on both sides. Still a few things in the bed, but there is nothing we have to worry about getting damaged or lighting up from any sparks.

Still planning on going fishing this weekend, so I don't know how far we'll get before then, but we're going to try to at least get started.
Have located a welding supply shop that is close to a meeting I have to be at tomorrow, and they have the part(s) I need for the plasma cutter. So, I'll pick those up while I'm out, and hopefully we will start hacking on the floor of mine tomorrow night.

Will try to take some pictures as we move along...
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #29 by PhantomAce » Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:43 pm

OK...
Picked up a new drag shield and a 5-pack each of tips and electrodes ("consumables") for the plasma cutter today. Stopped by Harbor Freight and got a couple small items (clamps etc...) while I was out. Once the day was over, we tackled the plasma cutter.
Of course, as soon as I got home with the new drag shield, I found the one that came with it, go figure.
But, it still wouldn't work. So, I decided to take the cover off and get a look inside.
Wouldn't you know it, the brass double-sided quick disconnect that connects the little internal compressor to the hose that feeds the air to the tip was disconnected, FROM THE FACTORY.
Brand new tool when I bought it, which is why I didn't take it apart, somebody at the factory must of had a hangover that day. Hooked the hose up, and the cutter works just fine now.

Took some "before" pictures of the floor of the car, then started cutting.
Removed the section of the passenger floor and toe-board that we needed to address, and then cut a patch to fit into it. It's a bit windy tonight, and I was setting off the smoke detectors in the house without the garage door open, so we had to call it a night before we tacked the patch in. But, I feel pretty confident that this is going to work. Will hopefully get the patch tacked in tomorrow night.
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #30 by LaGrasta » Wed Apr 28, 2010 1:32 pm

Cool! I love welding.
1963 1/2 Falcon 170/C4/8" (alt, a/c, Petronix/42v coil/8mm wires, 16" electric fan, electric fuel pump, Holley 1940, K&N Harley air filter, power dual m/c, 11" disc, 3" drop, Shelby drop, white tuck/roll, Moon steering wheel, '59 Caddy tail lights, fishtail exhaust tip, shaved trim, handles, cowl, fuel, dash, 4" radius trunk/door corners, power windows, 600w iPod system)

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #31 by SteveS » Wed Apr 28, 2010 3:14 pm

Two projects at the same time...good use of time and training takes place on your car and not his. :D That way his will be better. :mrgreen:

This is getting to be a daily read and is the best thread going. Now to pick from my projects. I'm disabled from indecision. :arg:
Sign of the Cat
1982 Mercury Cougar GS station wagon

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #32 by PhantomAce » Thu Apr 29, 2010 2:12 am

Thanks for the encouragement guys!
Neither of these cars are going to be "easy", but we're determined to swing at them both.

Today's progress (or not):
Well, we tried to finish fitting the first piece in the floorboard of my car tonight. (The passenger toe-board area.) We had the part rough cut to size last night, but didn't have the bend in it where it transitions from the floor up the firewall. Tonight I tried to bend it to the radius at the floor where it moves up the toe-board. But, we couldn't get a good fit/match on the radius, so in the end I decided to do the patch in 2 pieces, and we cut the top portion off the patch piece and got going on the floor portion of it.
After we cut it down to the floor only, I finished fitting the piece, clamped it in place, and started up the welder...
Man, I tell you what, butt-welding thin sheetmetal together is NOT easy.
First 1/2 hour or so of messing with it was a nightmare, half weld, half blowouts.
We messed with the settings on the welder for about an hour before we started getting anything even close to an acceptable result.
We've got the piece stitched in place now, but our plan is to grind the welds smooth tomorrow to see where we're "really" at with it, and fill in any gaps.
Once that is done, then we will fit the upper piece in the same manner.
My brother recommended we do a lapped joint instead of butt welds, as it would be "easier", but I want to try to avoid having a lap joint in the floors if at all possible.

I get the feeling these first few fixes are going to take a ton of time while we get some experience, but I'm still pretty confident that we'll be able to pull this off, and both of us will be pretty good with the welder and plasma cutter by the time we get through with both floors.

All in all, not a hugely successful day as far as time, but I think we made some good progress, and learned quite a bit, which is always a good thing. Plus, the first piece is IN the floor, pretty yet or not, it's there!
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #33 by 69.5Mav » Fri Apr 30, 2010 11:20 am

Take a piece of copper tube, pound it flat and place it behind the but weld you are trying to do. the weld won't stick to the copper and the copper will keep you from buring through.

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #34 by PhantomAce » Sat May 01, 2010 10:34 pm

69.5Mav:

Thanks for the tip!
Unfortunately, the night before you posted that I got frustrated and just decided to cut out a larger section and lap it at the top...
But, I picked up a piece of 3/4" Copper pipe at HomeDepot and pounded it flat. Have been using it since, and it does seem to help. Works like a dam and a heat-sink all at the same time, cool trick. Learn something new every day.
Thanks again!

OK, Thursday/Friday/Today's progress:
Weather complications cancelled our fishing trip for the weekend.
(Snow storms and a high of about 40 predicted this weekend, not exactly "prime" tent camping weather.)
So, we decided to stay home and work on the car(s) instead.

Have the plate tacked in to the passenger front floor and a bead stitched at back and side by the frame rail. Went from the "crossmember" bump forward to about 4" up the toe board, and from the side rail under the door to the frame rail. Have the bead welded in flush at the frame-rail (that weld was actually fairly easy), and along the back at the crossmember bump. Having a bit of an issue getting good penetration along the rail under the door, and haven't tried to stitch the toe-board end yet. This piece is taking some time, mainly because we're still learning "how" to do this, and it's been tough trying to get to good metal on the edge. We'll get it though. Planning on tackling that part again tomorrow. Once that's in tight, then I need to address a little area at the toe-board right next to it above the framerail.

Decided to work on some other pieces that needed attention if they were going to be used (extra's), figured it would give me some experience with the "thin" stuff without risking any parts that had to be used.
So, I took the spare driver door I have and welded the broken brace and cracks at the window division bar (by the interior door handle) and a crack about 2/3 of the way towards the back of the door. Actually, came out pretty good! I've got one spot on the door that had a hole in it that I drilled out cleaner and then plugged with JB-Weld. Should be OK when it sets up and gets sanded, it's not in a structural part of the skin, so it shouldn't be an issue. (Why there was a hole there I have no idea, but someone drilled it for some unknown reason.)

Then, I took one of the extra "hockeystick" bed trim pieces that had a crack in the end of it and clamped it up nice and welded that back together. Hit it with the grinder, and then a file, and you can't even see where the crack was.
That piece and the matching part for the other side both had 2 holes in them where some idiot had installed a snap-on tonneau cover. The metal is too thin and the holes are too big to plug weld, so this is another instance of JB-Weld to the rescue... I put a masking tape dam behind each hole and mixed up a batch.
Once that sets up (tomorrow?) I can grind/file/sand them down and see if they're usable. I think they will be, and they're in MUCH better overall shape than the one's on the son's "project" car. If so, then I'll hit any low spots with a little fiberglass reinforced filler and call them ready for paint.

Basically, still learning the nuance's of the welder, but we're having fun with it. Plus, not only has my oldest son (the project car's new owner) learned a lot, but my 13-yo youngest son is showing an interest now as well, and we're all 3 on this together. I'm a little antsy with cutting him loose with some of the equipment yet, but we'll get there.

All-in-all, it's not going easy, but we're having fun, and we'll get it figured out I think.
Tomorrow is another day...
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #35 by 69.5Mav » Mon May 03, 2010 10:07 am


PhantomAce
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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #36 by PhantomAce » Tue May 04, 2010 3:45 pm

Alright...
Anyone that has followed this thread/discussion knows that we're having a heck of a time with the floors.
Trying to repair mine first, as it is the "easier" repair as far as extent of the damage, and then get to the "parts car" repairs.
Have the toe-board and front floor on the passenger side of mine in place, but it isn't exactly a "pretty" fix. It's solid, but it was a real bear trying to get things lined up and stitched in.

Knowing what I know now, and having discussed this at length with my son, we think we know what we need to do to fix his floors, but I am looking for input from board members here that may have dealt with similar issues.
Here's the situation:
The floors are trash. The cancer runs pretty much all the way across the floor from the rail under the door to just before the tranny hump in front and back on both sides.
There are some areas (patchy) that aren't too bad, but in general I think the safest path is to just go for full replacement except the tranny tunnel and the crossmember hump under the seats.
- Knowing that, what we are considering is cutting 2 rips of sheet steel 1/16" thick.
One rip would be 19" to deal with both front floors. The other rip would be 21" for the rear floors.
- Then, cut some 3/4"x3/4"x1/8" angle iron and run it on the perimeters under the floor from front to back and up the toe-boards.
- Cut some 3/4"x1/8" flat stock to connect the angle stock from left to right.
- Then, with the old floor still in place, screw the steel in up tight to the existing floor to position it and mark it for location.
- Remove the steel, then cut out the existing floors.
- Once the old floor is out of the way, put the steel supports (previously cut and screwed in) back in place and weld them off to the frame rails and side rails, and run the connecting straps across, lapping the joint to the existing remaining floor areas approximately 1/2-way.
- After the support is screwed back in place and welded, then drop full pieces of sheet metal on top of it and weld it off above and below.

Basically, use the angle and flat stock to mimic the exact floor position from original, and then attach the new floor to it as 4 full panels welded to the sub-structure below just put in place.
This should give us a correct relative position for the new floors, and the new support underneath should be at least as strong as the original floors, and probably stronger.
I know it's not exactly "concourse", but $80 worth of steel I can buy locally is a lot cheapr on a kid's budget than $300-$400 worth of "reproduction" floors, that would still be difficult to get tied of to the frame rails without additional support underneath.

Has anyone attempted a manner of repair similar to this, and if so, how did it come out?
Suggestions?
Input?

Thanks all.
Mike.
(PhantomAce)
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #37 by PhantomAce » Mon May 10, 2010 2:56 am

OK, update here:

Had to find a 12" metal cut-off blade for my Delta chopsaw. That turned into a "thing", since it has a 1" Arbor (almost everything we found was 3/4" arbor for some reason). Finally located one and got to cutting steel on the weekend.
Decided to go ahead with the floor subframes. I know it may not be "correct", but it's realistically the only way that the floor will get fixed and be structural again, barring buying complete repro floorpans and having someone with experience stitch them in. May not be pretty, but I believe it will work, and having 1/16" steel floors stitched to an 1/8" thick steel frame, welded off to the side rails & unibody frame as well, should be plenty beefy.
We built up the floor frames this weekend, so the next thing for the floors is basically just mounting the frames for location fit, pull them back out, cut the floors out, and then weld the new ones in, sitting on the frames we've already built. (Position on the floor frames located by previous mounting holes, and welded off to the outer rails and the frame rails.)

Have twisted things around a bit here powertrain-wise...
My nephew is building a 1978 Mustang-II Cobra with a 351, and he has a fairly fresh C4 out of the '73 Maverick that he gave his Dad (my brother) that isn't going to be used, as my brother is pulling the running 250 out and putting a T-5 behind a 302 in that car.
Sooooo.... we're giving nephew the built C4 I had made up for my car (V8 internals and a machine to fit C6 pump), and in return he's giving us his fairly fresh 250 C4, a B&M QuickSilver shifter, and an 8" 5-lug rear out of the Maverick for future use (son's "project car" eventually).

- We're going to put the C4 out of the Maverick in the "project car" for my son, with the QuickSilver shifter.
- We're taking the built C4 out of my project and giving it to nephew for his 250 C4, swapping the pedal hanging from son's "project car" to mine, and my automatic pedals are going into his, and I'm putting the SROD I originally bought for mine in my car.
- The 200 I had built for mine almost 30 years ago (that I pulled for the new Clifford engine) is going to get the crank/rod journals checked with plastigage, then the cam pulled and cam/bearings inspected, and if all is good, then we're going to put in a new set of gaskets, new oil pump, the C9 head that we freshened up previously on the "project car", and going to stab it all in at one time.

- Son ends up with a fairly fresh C4, fresh 200 (28+/- years old but only a few thou miles) with an Isky cam, zero-decked block, with his head and a ratchet shifter.
- Nephew ends up with a built C4 that will handle his 351 in the Mustang-II.
- And, I end up with a manual (like I always wanted) in mine behind the Clifford 200. If I don't like the SROD, then I'll pull it and throw a T-5 in later. Everything else should be pretty much broken in by then.
With all the part swapping, seems like the only things we're lacking is the shim-plate and inspection cover for the SROD, clutch for the SROD, the gaskets and new oil pump (always a good idea) for the 200 going in son's car, and we need to get a radiator rotted out for son's car with a tranny cooler in it (I have one, just needs to be rotted) and a set of lines from the C4 to the tranny.
Everybody wins, on the cheap, or close to it.

The next couple of weeks ought to get really entertaining though, as we're going to TRY to get the 200 ready for the project (plastigage, gaskets, paint, pull old, drop in new, mount shifter, etc...), and, at the same time, we're going to be welding floors in.
Should be fun...

Question:
Does anyone know... will the metal shim and inspection plate from the stock 3-spd in son's project car (mated to a C8 block) fit on the SROD?
Input?

Side-note:
We're going to have a stock C8 200 short block available very soon in Las Vegas. It may not be pretty, but the engine runs right now. We're pulling the head and fuel pump off it, and then it needs to go away. Will also have a stock 3-spd tranny (2.77?) that I KNOW needs rebuilt as well with it.
If someone on the board needs it, and has a truck, PM me and you can have it and the tranny/clutch all in one shot. Just back your truck up, and we'll drop it in back with a cherry picker. Would love to get "something" Ranchero wise in trade, but bottom line is I would hate to see it go to waste. So, if someone needs a running/used 200 short block... then drop me a line, and get it out of here. Should be sitting on the floor waiting for a new home within 2 weeks.
Going to post it in the "Small Six for sale/Trade" thread as well.

This is starting to get really interesting on this end...
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #38 by PhantomAce » Wed May 12, 2010 1:58 am

OK, tonight's update:
Took apart my old 200 that was sitting in the garage tonight.
- Cylinder walls still have honing cross-hatch and absolutely zero detectable surface defects, but there is a slight discoloration on cylinder 4 (more on that in a minute).
- Crank journals look fine, slight gray discolored band right where the oil groove on the bearings is, but no discernible gouges or grooves in the journals whatsoever. In other words, the crank appears fine. The bearings are stamped .020, so it's been turned 20-over already, but that's acceptable I believe.
- The rods are stamped either C3 or C0, not sure which, but definitely one or the other, and they are also definitely forged (a big "plus" in my book).
- Wrist pins "appear" to be fine, smooth movement, no binds, no detectable slop whatsoever.
- Pistons... Stamped .040, so it was bored 40-over. I remembered it was bored out at rebuild almost 30 years ago, just couldn't remember how much. All appear fine, EXCEPT... #4. The oil control rings are locked up solid on that one. Have it sitting upside down in a metal coffee can right now with just enough acetone to dissolve anything that may be gluing them tight to the piston without submerging the wrist-pin. But, the bottom line is that in my opinion either it just locked up chemically (oil or what not) from sitting over the years, OR... the piston got hot and seized over the rings. I'm inclined to believe it's just from sitting (ran fine when parked), but I am a bit antsy with that one. Particularly considering the slight discoloration in that bore.
In any case, the engine is going to need new bearings, rings, timing chain set and oil pump for me to feel better about it, and only if that piston is OK.
At worst, it needs a full rebuild with a re-bore and 60-over pistons, in which case we probably won't even bother with it.
Will let that piston soak overnight and then see where we are from there. If it pops free, then I'm going to investigate what it will cost to get the block magna-fluxed and the head surface cleaned up, and will check with Mike at CI about a rebuild kit with a hotter cam.
If the piston is damaged... then the rebuild is scrapped, and son will just run with his existing 200, or I'll give him my Clifford 200, and then deal with another engine for mine later. (I've got a built Windsor stroker short block sitting in the corner, so I have options, just not looking forward to dealing with the front suspension issues needed to do that. Would probably just have another 6 built up for mine instead, by Mike at CI this time, but not sure at the moment.)

I guess the next couple days are going to define the path on both of these old 'cheros.
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #39 by '68falconohio » Wed May 12, 2010 8:30 pm

There is ONE .040 over piston on ebay for $12.99 if you have to go that route.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-FAL ... ccessories

-Stephen
'68 Falcon - sold
'99 F-250 Super Duty, '64 Lincoln SA-200 "Redface" - weldin' car
'04 F-350 Super Duty - racecar

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #40 by PhantomAce » Thu May 13, 2010 5:00 pm

68FalconOhio:
Thanks for that post, I might need that one...

Just took a long lunch and dropped my old engine off at a local machine shop.
The machinist thinks he can save the piston. He's going to hot tank and magnaflux the block first, and if it checks out OK, then he's going to work on the piston. If that comes out OK... then he's going to do a full short block on it. Hone the block, polish the crank, new bearings, rings, core plugs, deck the block and assemble with a new oil pump.
Monday I will take him the C9 head off the engine in the car, and he's going to mill the head, new SS valves (1.75/1.50), hardened seats, new springs, and build up the log and machine it to take one of CI's 2V plates direct mount.
I just need to bring him a cam & lifters, a piston if needed, and the 2V plate.
(He's also going to provide the hardened spacers under the head bolts to make up for the milling.)
Total for all, assembled: $1,000 +/- a $100.
Said 3 or 4 days for short block only, a solid week if we have him do the head work, and I need the cam and 2V spacer to get started.

If he can stick with that pricing, then it's a screaming deal in my book.
Even if it goes up to $1,200 it's still a heck of a deal I think.

But, first, I need to get the call from him end of day today or tomorrow morning letting me know if the block checked out and if the piston is Ok.

Fingers crossed...
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #41 by PhantomAce » Thu May 13, 2010 8:38 pm

Machine shop called back.
Block is OK, piston is OK, we're a go for the build.
Started talking about the parts, and cc'ing the head / milling to spec for CR of 9.5:1.
Price went up to $1,200.
(I expected it, have never seen any verbal "first estimate" stay the same.)
Still well worth it in my opinion, son is going to basically have a brand new engine with a direct mounted Holley 2V carb and a C4 all in one install.

Talked to my brother. He's got a Holley 2V off the 302 he's using that came out of an inboard boat. Will put a kit in that and then it looks like I'll be cobbling up throttle linkage... again...
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #42 by '68falconohio » Thu May 13, 2010 11:58 pm

Good deal! I had about $1700 in a very similar rebuild, ready for turnkey operation. Except, I did the milling for the 2V plate myself and no SS valves! Happy to hear the piston/block was saved; your son will be really happy with his motor, especially if he's rolled around in a stocker before.

As another tip for your sheetmetal welding: using a 10-15* 'push angle' instead of a 'drag angle' should help you out. A push angle will net a little less penetration vs. a drag angle and keep you from burning through. This works because if you're dragging, the wire will arc on virgin material more instead of the molten puddle which is much thicker than your floor panels. When pushing like this keep the weld wire on top of the puddle. If you whip the wire passed the puddle(try to travel too fast) and hit bare metal, you risk burning through just like you're dragging.

Lap joints are your friend, as you already found out. It's really hard for a beginner to weld butt joints up in floor pans because they rarely fit up perfectly. Don't be afraid to puddlefudge it. Short bursts, welding only an inch or so. If you're welding along and see the weld isn't building up as much as you think it should, that's because it's drooping through to the underside. Stop, move to another part of the panel for a bit while it cools. Stitch welding your panels in like this will limit the distortion(which shouldn't be bad at all).
Keep your lens clean! You can't weld if you can't see!

Another thing, you can 'trick' your welding machine into delivering the same amount of wire at a lower amperage. It's a little more advanced technique, but is very useful. Increasing the 'contact tip to work distance' is how. Holding the contact tip a little farther away from what you're welding, say 1"-1 1/4" instead of the usual 3/8". Make sure you still have adequate gas coverage when you pull back, if the puddle starts popping stuff up or has pores in it, you're too far away. The increase in wire 'stick out' from the end of the contact tip increases the resistance of the circuit which drops amperage. rant on** amperage is directly related to heat....VOLTAGE IS NOT HEAT. rant off**

The links 69.5Mav posted are full of info as well.

Hope that helps a little and you're not already done welding!

-Stephen
'68 Falcon - sold
'99 F-250 Super Duty, '64 Lincoln SA-200 "Redface" - weldin' car
'04 F-350 Super Duty - racecar

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #43 by PhantomAce » Fri May 14, 2010 12:45 am

68FalconOhio:

Thanks for the welding tips!
We're still fighting with that part of it, but I'll get the hang of it eventually. The patch we put in my floor as a test is solid, just not real "pretty".
I'm thinking the 1/8" angle iron frames that we're going to be doing on his car are probably a good idea. They may not be "concourse", but they'll give me a good heat sink to weld to and provide a check for position at the same time. Given how much money we're (me) throwing at the engine on a whim, the car is probably going to end up being a bit "rat-rod" for a while anyway, and all that really matters to me is that it reliably goes down the road, and it's safe. I think this will meet those qualifications.

As for the engine...
The cam, valves, lifters and adapter plate were almost $400 from Mike, so we're still going to be in it about $1,600 total. But, I think it's well worth it. I'm a BIG fan of fixing things while they're apart, and not dealin with them "later", so knowing that my son has a new engine and fresh tranny right off the bat is a big plus to me.
From my calculations, it should run almost as well as my Clifford 6 once we put a set of headers and exhaust on it (later), and it certainly didn't cost near as much in the long run.
And, my son is already stoked because:
A) He didn't even know I was going to do this today.
B) It's "Dad's" old engine from my Ranchero when I was his age.

A plus for me, on the side, is knowing that by building this "now", I don't have to worry about him deciding to build a "nasty" V8 for it later, which wipes out all kinds of future trouble possibilities down the road.
With a couple hundred HP in a 2,400 lbs car, I doubt a new engine is going to be in the forefront of his thoughts any time soon.

As with anything car related, it's costing more, and taking longer than we originally anticipated, but it's still fun regardless.
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #44 by PhantomAce » Fri May 21, 2010 1:45 am

Update:
The "old" engine from mine is supposed to be ready Monday or Tuesday next week.
It's a C8 200, .040 over, got a 274/274 cam, 1.75/1.50 stainless valves, and a 2-bbl direct amount adapter from Mike at CI shipped direct to the machine shop. Will be dropping it in the "parts car" for son next week.
Traded off the "built" C4 to my nephew for his stock '73 Maverick 250/C4 and B&M Quicksilver shifter that used to be in my brother's '72 Maverick way back when. Ordered new "cosmetic kit", cable and C4 shift linkage to fit it, those parts should show up next couple days.
Dropped 2 radiators off to get rodded out and rebuilt locally, one is salvageable, the other is not (guess I'll be buying an aluminum for mine soon). Radiator's done, will pick it up tomorrow.
Pulled the part numbers off the Mercruiser 2-bbl Holley and ordered a rebuild kit through AutoZone, they called today and said it was in. The 302 it came off was rated at 188-hp, so I'm "hoping" it'll be a good match jet wise on the 200 we're dropping in. Mike at CI said the 200 should be worth about 175-200 HP with that cam and spring combo on a zero-decked block and cc'd head with 9.5:1 CR, so I'm thinking it might work out OK. At least it should be a good starting point, and we'll adjust from there.

Basically, we'll probably be dropping the fresh 200, C4, and my old driveshaft in next week, and we'll take it from there. But, I think it should be a little screamer, even before we start looking for a header for it, which should really open it up.

Still need to finish the floors, and start working on the interior, but it's a start.
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #45 by PhantomAce » Mon May 24, 2010 12:50 am

Brief update:
Family matters took over most of the weekend.
(Surprise party for my Mom's 70th birthday this weekend.)
But... yesterday morning before the party we rebuilt the Holley 2V carb for the direct mount on the head of the "parts car".
Wasn't that big of a deal, really. Didn't have a solvent tank or carb bucket available, but an aerosol can of Berryman B12 Chemtool and a large metal coffee can seemed to work well enough.
Even though the carb came off a boat, we took the casting numbers to AutoZone, and they found the right kit, $23.99 and 2 days to get it.
Did some research online, and it appears to be a 350cfm unit, so I'm hoping it matches up OK with the needs of the engine/cam, but I'm pretty confident about it.
Spoke to the guy at the machine shop briefly yesterday (Saturday), and he seems pretty confident that he'll have it done tomorrow (Monday), but we'll see.
Plan is to drop the engine and C4 trans in over the 3-day weekend, so if he slips a day or two, we're still OK.
Ordered the miscellaneous parts for the QuickSilver shifter last week, they should show up next day or two.
Still need to find an inexpensive used header for it, but we'll take it as it goes.
Will update as things progress.
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #46 by PhantomAce » Tue Jun 01, 2010 9:43 pm

The ever evolving project it seems...

Machine shop didn't get the engine ready in time for the 3 day weekend.
(Really didn't matter, as it occured to me that I would need an adjustable rocker for it anyway, due to the zero-decking and head mill/cc op, so it wouldn't have been ready to go in and start this weekend even if the machine work was done...)

So...
We pulled the old engine and 2.77 trans out of the "project car", hooked the C4 to the Clifford 200-6 I had built for mine a few years ago, and dropped it in the "project car" instead.
(Yeah, the kid is getting the Clifford, my decision.)
Haven't got it fired up yet, as we were losing daylight last night just getting it on the tranny and engine mounts, but I think we'll have it started by this weekend.
Already got the parts I needed to set-up the QuickSilver shifter, just needs to be installed.
Fuel pump, pressure regulator, the Weber 38/38 carb needs to go on, connect some hoses, adjust valves, install radiator, etc... all the little stuff left to do, and then we'll see how it runs.
The car still looks very much "jalopy", but, for a 6, it should run like a bat out of... you get the idea.

Side note:
Since the "other" engine didn't get done in time, I told them to take the extra time to pocket port the head, and I'll be getting some 1.6 rockers from Mike at CI soon, and then it should be real comparable to this one.
The 2 engines will be "almost" identical except the "parts car" is getting a 276/276-110lc cam and an E0 head with a Weber on adapter and an auto, and mine is getting a 274/274-110lc cam with a direct mount Holley 2V on a C9 head and an SROD manual. Will be fun to see which one runs better.
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

PhantomAce
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Joined: Fri Oct 16, 2009 12:55 am
Location: Las Vegas, NV

Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #47 by PhantomAce » Tue Jun 08, 2010 12:58 am

Update:
It LIVES.....
Fired the engine up yesterday morning, briefly, just enough to warm it up real quick and shut it down.
Went back and adjusted the valve lash, again... then fired it back up and cranked it to 2,000-2,500 rpm and let it just sit and work the rings in.
Wanted to do the high idle break-in for 30 minutes, but, watching the temperature, it was getting a little hotter than I cared for at about the 20 minute mark, so we shut it down at that point. (Not "overheating", just "warmer" than I care for, so I decided to play it safe.)
I only had the timing set by ear, so now, tonight, probably going to hit it with a timing light and run it up some more. If it was a little off that could account for the temp being a bit "up".

The thing sounds absolutely nasty, for a little straight-6 with a carb anyway. Throttle response is right there, right now. It really sounds good for a little 200-c.i. economy engine. And we haven't even put a set of headers on it, or dialed in the carb yet, so it's probably only running at about 75% of output, at best.

Got too hot in the afternoon to get much done, so all we managed yesterday after the break-in was mounting the shifter assembly to the floor in the cab.
But this morning, (early, like 6:30) my son was out there, under the car, snaking the cable for the shifter, getting it adjusted at the trans, pulling the driveshaft, again... (he forgot to put the parking brake cable OVER the driveshaft originally), and working on little nit-noid stuff before it got too hot. (We hit about 110-degrees outside yesterday, and this is all outside work, as the garage has "my" project car tieing it up these days.)
Hoping to sort out the throttle linkage tomorrow night, and then it should be "driveable" enough to pull it out of the RV Parking on the side of the house over to the driveway, where it's a lot easier to work on.
Then, we start on replacing the floors, again... (think "swiss cheese")... and all new brake plumbing.

In any case, it sounds pretty darn good...
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

PhantomAce
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Posts: 137
Joined: Fri Oct 16, 2009 12:55 am
Location: Las Vegas, NV

Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #48 by PhantomAce » Sun Jun 13, 2010 2:12 am

Worked on the brakes today.
Pulled the rear brake lines from the rubber line in back all the way to the wheel cylinders.
Took the lines into the garage, cleaned everything up, blew out the steel lines to the wheels, cleaned up the "T", and replaced the rubber line at the "T".
Then, we stripped the brake hardware at both sides of the axle down to the backing plate, cleaned everything, replaced the wheel cylinders, and reinstalled.
Tomorrow we're planning on running the new steel line from the rear rubber line up to the master cylinder, install the new steel lines at the front, new shoes at the front, and the new front parking brake cable.
Have a new guide wheel and handle for the parking brake assembly in the cab, going to rebuild that assembly, then put it in, as well as the "automatic" pedal hanging from mine. (Already out, just need to clean it up and install.)
Basically, by end of day tomorrow, the brakes should be all new/refurb except the master cylinder, and everything operational, including the parking brake.
Still need to install the new dual-chamber drum-drum master cylinder I bought, but we're having a heck of a time finding the right line adapters, so we're probably going to run with the single-chamber until I can sort those fittings out.
Hoping to snake the new steel tranny modulator vacuum line while we're under the car tomorrow.
From there, we're pretty much back to the floors... (oy!), but the engine/trans/rear-end/brakes should all be up to snuff.

This has turned into a bit of an undertaking, but we'll get through it.
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

69.5Mav
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Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 5:53 pm
Location: Sunnyvale, CA

Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #49 by 69.5Mav » Thu Jun 24, 2010 12:19 pm

Any Progress???

PhantomAce
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Posts: 137
Joined: Fri Oct 16, 2009 12:55 am
Location: Las Vegas, NV

Re: Parts car turned into a "runner"

Post #50 by PhantomAce » Sun Jun 27, 2010 9:09 pm

Yes, actually, some progress. Just haven't taken the time to post, my bad...

- We ended up going through the brakes almost completely. All new wheel cylinders, new rubber and steel lines everywhere except over the rear axle (which we just blew out), new shoes on front (the rears were fine). Still using the flower-pot MC, but only because I'm having a hard time finding the adapters to put the new dual chamber drum-drum MC in.
- Rebuilt the Parking brake assembly under the dash, ran new cable from there to the equalizer bar, the rear cable was fine though.
- Had some tranny leaks to deal with, typical C4 stuff, but we got those tamed down.
- Converted to a new alternator and a one-wire voltage regulator.
-Turn signals were good in back, but nothing up front. Believe it or not though, when we started chasing them down, it was just 50 years worth of corrosion inside the connectors at the firewall and fender corners. Put an ohm meter to the wires, and everything read good between the connectors, but still nothing at the lights, even with new bulbs. (One was clearly blown, so we replaced both with ambers). Once we unplugged everything ,and hit the connections with a wire brush they all started working.
- Sorted out the shifter adjustment on the tranny (using a 30-yo "QuickSilver" ratchet shifter).
- Installed the door lock cylinders (new, matching the new ignition cylinder we put in previously).
- Installed a tranny modulator hard line (formed steel except 3 or 4 inches of rubber vacuum line at each end).
- Balanced the carb idle mixture circuits as best as I could. Still need to add a heavier throttle return spring though, the return on the Weber 38/38 is just too weak in my opinion.

Having distributor issues. I've got 2 here, but one is a dual vac unit, and the advance doesn't even seem to be working at all. Pulled that one off and put the single vac unit I used to have on mine (years back) on it, and it's better, but I think the springs are too weak. It's coming in at idle, and then it's "all in" within about 500 or 1,000 rpm more. Running it ported, above the throttle plates, might need to try it at a manifold port, just because I honestly can't remember how it's supposed to be, and if that doesn't help then I'll try some heavier advance springs on it.
Plan is to get it working for now, and then buy a rebuilt unit from AutoZone and put the springs we end up with in it with a Pertronix kit. Seems like the most reasonable "low buck" way to go to me.
Took it "around the block" for the first time 2 nights ago. It ran OK, not great, but OK. No overheating or stalling or anything like that. But... the front suspension is TRASHED. Car wanders bad, and there's about 90-degrees of play in the wheel it seems. Probably going to need to open up the steering box, lube it, and adjust the worm/sector play. Then I know it needs front and rear springs as well as shocks, and we will need to do UCA & LCA's probably.
If there's too much play in the idler/centerlink/control arms then I have most of that stuff sitting on a shelf already.
Rear springs are shot, but I've checked out the set I have on mine, and they seem to still be fairly decent, so I'm going to let my son have the new rear leafs I bought, and he can buy me a set later if I need to replace mine.
Still haven't started on the floors, but they're probably next up after I sort out the front end, and then we should be ready to get it registered. All-in-all, it's a money pit, kind of figured it would be. But, it's coming together.
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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