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Cracked log

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Brayab
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Location: Baltimore

Cracked log

Post #1 by Brayab » Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:07 am

After completing the assembly of my 170 which had spun a bearing. I put the final coat of paint on the engine. As I stood back to admire my work, in what seemed like slow motion, the engine tipped over and broke the corner off of the log. :bang: It looks like I am in the market for a good used head.

lessons to be learned:
just because the block is balanced in the stand it may not be once you install the head

three wheeled engine stands SUCK!!!!

anyone have a nice head in MD?

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JackFish
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Re: Cracked log

Post #2 by JackFish » Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:23 am

:splat: Wow that sucks big time.

http://www.car-part.com
Check ebay too.
1978 Ford Fairmont station wagon
1978 Ford Fairmont station wagon
Yup, I bought another one.
1996 Chevy Caprice 9C1 (3)
1999 Dodge Ram 2500

cruzingratiot
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Location: Detroit MI

Re: Cracked log

Post #3 by cruzingratiot » Mon Jan 31, 2011 7:32 pm

where you located ?
someone here close to you may have one

had a 3 wheel stand drop a 350 25 years ago
never used one again
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Brayab
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Location: Baltimore

Re: Cracked log

Post #4 by Brayab » Tue Feb 01, 2011 11:45 am

I am in Maryland near Baltimore.

anyone know of a junkyard with old cars around here?

thanks;
Bray

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bubba22349
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Location: Flagstaff, Az. 86005 near the old Route 66

Re: Cracked log

Post #5 by bubba22349 » Tue Feb 01, 2011 5:00 pm

Where is it damaged maybe it could be welded?
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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cisco170
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Re: Cracked log

Post #6 by cisco170 » Tue Feb 01, 2011 10:49 pm

Hello. A good fabricator and welder can make a part and weld it or blaze it?

PhantomAce
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Re: Cracked log

Post #7 by PhantomAce » Tue Feb 01, 2011 11:05 pm

Brayab:

Did it hit on the front corner of the log?
You may want to take a good look at the water pump mounting area. That much force could have put enough stress on it to crack the block at that spot.
I only say this out of a bit of experience.
The first block we had built for the "parts car" project cracked right there because the kid with the lift at the shop picked the engine up by the #1 exhaust outlet bolt hole, and when he lifted it with the cherry picker the block cracked right there. (There was a rough spot in the casting on the backside of the water pump hole, and it split straight over to the outside and back towards the tranny about 1-1/2 inches along the side of the block.)
If just lifting the engine's weight improperly in that area could split at a rough spot in the jacket, then I have to wonder what dropping an engine with enough force to break the head on the same corner could do.

Just something to think about, I'd get a good look at it though if it were me.
Mine: '61 chero, Clifford 200, E0 head (1.75/1.50, 1.6 rocker), 276 Cam, H-W 38/38, CI 6-to-2 header, T5, front disc, Shelby drop, 8" 3.0-posi, buckets/console, 15" TorqThrust's. Still building...
Son's "Parts Car": '61 chero, local built 200, C9 head (1.75/1.50, 1.5 rocker), 274 cam, 2V direct, Clifford 6-to-2 header, C4, B&M QuickSilver, stock rear and susp (for now).

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JackFish
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Re: Cracked log

Post #8 by JackFish » Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:12 am

Heck last time I checked there were about a half dozen complete engines on ebay for about $100 and up.
1978 Ford Fairmont station wagon
1978 Ford Fairmont station wagon
Yup, I bought another one.
1996 Chevy Caprice 9C1 (3)
1999 Dodge Ram 2500

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rocklord
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Re: Cracked log

Post #9 by rocklord » Wed Feb 02, 2011 10:34 am

I have a head from a 66 200 that needs a rebuild, includes valves and springs. You can have it for shipping costs.
I would have larger chambers than your 170, but it could be milled down during rebuild.

I live in the SW corner of WV between Huntington and Charleston if you want to figure shipping cost.

Just let me know.
Dan

Currently Own
1965 Mustang, 200CID, 3Spd
1964 Corvair Coupe, 164CID, 140HP, 4Spd
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Brayab
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Re: Cracked log

Post #10 by Brayab » Mon Feb 07, 2011 5:21 pm

I obtained a head from a local member of the falcon club... a 1965 code but it is going to need new valves and lots of machine work....

just for fun I attempted to glue it back together, I used cold weld by permatex it was on sale for a 97 cents (you get what you pay for) it is a two part epoxy similar to jb weld.

so far so good it looks great but time will tell

this is before:

Image

Image

I will post after later

Brayab
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Re: Cracked log

Post #11 by Brayab » Mon Feb 07, 2011 5:22 pm

parts

Image

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powerband
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Re: Cracked log

Post #12 by powerband » Mon Feb 07, 2011 7:42 pm

just for fun I attempted to glue it back together, I used cold weld by permatex it was on sale for a 97 cents (you get what you pay for) it is a two part epoxy similar to jb weld.


Hey why not... When I got my '63 wagon. it had a tired 170 (C5xx) . Power-washing the dirty engine blasted a hole in in the rusty little core plug in the head under the intake :( . I mixed up some epoxy and stuffed it in the hole figuring it to be a temporary-short fix. I wound up running it with the epoxy patch for @ 4 years before swapping in a '71 170. No leaks or trouble with the epoxy and in a hotter area than that corner . It can work 8) ...

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Brayab
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Location: Baltimore

Re: Cracked log

Post #13 by Brayab » Fri Feb 11, 2011 5:09 pm

here is the after pic

Image

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I am going to apply another coat then sand and paint it?

time will tell

Brayab
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Location: Baltimore

Re: Cracked log

Post #14 by Brayab » Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:27 pm

got the engine installed and running so far so good???

Thad
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Re: Cracked log

Post #15 by Thad » Mon Mar 28, 2011 3:08 pm

Intake is not pressured I know that is obvious just had to say it. The epoxy should hold if it does not get to hot. We used JB to set screw-in plugs in oil gallary plugs never a problem but required heat to later remove. After a trip check for heat. If you can touch with out burning your fingers, OK. If not suggest a heat barrier, alum foil around header in the area closes.
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