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Cam removal - engine in car (roundbody)

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aribert
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Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2003 7:14 am
Location: Metro Detroit

Cam removal - engine in car (roundbody)

Post #1 by aribert » Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:52 pm

I am looking at upgrading the cam. I have not decided between the solid lifter Clifford or the hydraulic(?) Earson. Has anyone replaced the cam w/ the engine on the car? I know that I will need to remove the radiator. I tried to look at the front of the engine from under the car - I expected to need to remove the grille but now I am thinking that I will need to remove the bumper instead. If so will the cam clear thru one of the openings in the lower valence?
61 , Deluxe trim & original 54 yr old factory padded dash. Custom interior, stock color base/clear, 275K mi, My car for the last 47 years (OK, first decade "ownership" from the left rear seat). '78 200, 3.03 manual trans, '73 dist w/ points & TFI ign, Weber32/36, 15 wheels Image

91 F150 4.9 almost stock

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oldgrezmonke
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Re: Cam removal - engine in car (roundbody)

Post #2 by oldgrezmonke » Thu Feb 16, 2012 9:03 pm

The manual mentions the grille but not the bumper . See link to online manual .
http://falconfaq.dyndns.org/display1.ph ... Page=1-020 + following pages
First car - 1961 Falcon Deluxe 4door , had 1968-73
Present - 1963 1/2 Falcon 4door base model , since 2009 ,
frequent driver , work in progress
Yes I like 4doors
Lifetime member # 117 NSRA
Former A.S.E. certified mechanic
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aribert
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Location: Metro Detroit

Re: Cam removal - engine in car (roundbody)

Post #3 by aribert » Tue Mar 06, 2012 7:54 pm

Well I got the cam out - wish I had pulled the bumper. I forgot that my engine is lowered to get the 3.03 trans bellhousing to fit w/o pounding the trans tunnel. I pulled the grill & lifted the front of the engine but the engine did not come up enough (bellhouing hard into the trans tunnel) for the cam to clear the license plate rise in the bumper. I ended up removing 2 of the 3 bolts on each bumper brkt to rotate the bumper enough to get the cam to clear.

While the grille is out, I'll do the prep work for fitting an A.C condenser behind the grille.
61 , Deluxe trim & original 54 yr old factory padded dash. Custom interior, stock color base/clear, 275K mi, My car for the last 47 years (OK, first decade "ownership" from the left rear seat). '78 200, 3.03 manual trans, '73 dist w/ points & TFI ign, Weber32/36, 15 wheels Image

91 F150 4.9 almost stock

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bubba22349
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Re: Cam removal - engine in car (roundbody)

Post #4 by bubba22349 » Tue Mar 06, 2012 8:23 pm

:thumbup: Sounds like a good plan :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

MPGmustang
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Re: Cam removal - engine in car (roundbody)

Post #5 by MPGmustang » Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:08 pm

awesome!!!

have you decided which cam to install yet? is your weber direct mounted?
65mustang-SOLD-200ci-t5-scarebird disks-vintage air ac-264/274 110 cam-mav 8inch 3.8 open-350cfm-CI headers
66 Bronco-SOLD-i6 170 - rust bucket never ran...
75 bronco-SOLD-v8 c4 dana 20 33's and disk brakes, locker front/rear.

aribert
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Location: Metro Detroit

Re: Cam removal - engine in car (roundbody)

Post #6 by aribert » Thu Mar 08, 2012 8:18 pm

GMPMustang:
I still need to get the cams on a set of V-blocks and check the Earson out compared to the stock hyd cam. The Earson was sold to me as a solid lifter cam but the lifters that came with it are hyd. I need to check the ramp angle/rate to see if it is a hydraulic cam or not. Most likely I will use my Clifford 270 solid lifter cam - I like old school valve clatter. Right now I am trying to resolve what compression to raise up to. With a '78 Smog motor and going to a composite gasket I know I need to bump it quite a bit. The chambers were 61+/- cc. On both my original 170 & then an early 200 I tried to use my 170 head milled to 47cc (I calculated it at about 9.2:1 ratio). Both times the pistons expanded and the engines seized - so I know I don't want to go that severe.

I made a custom carb adapter by modifying a Clifford adapter so that the Weber bowl would face forward as intended. Image: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll27 ... 050032.jpg with carb mounted: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll27 ... 250017.jpg
looks almost bone stock under the air cleaner: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll27 ... 250018.jpg

But I want more air flow. I have now milled a slot that is about 2.25 inches long and 1.5 in. wide (with the original 1.75 bore in the middle). I am working on making a pair of patterns to get a carb adapter cast that will take the cross car oval under the carb and twist it into a fore/aft oval. I'll have to weld the two casting together since it can't be sand cast in one piece.
61 , Deluxe trim & original 54 yr old factory padded dash. Custom interior, stock color base/clear, 275K mi, My car for the last 47 years (OK, first decade "ownership" from the left rear seat). '78 200, 3.03 manual trans, '73 dist w/ points & TFI ign, Weber32/36, 15 wheels Image

91 F150 4.9 almost stock

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