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A tisket A tasket I need A new Gasket!!!!!

Moderator: Mod Squad

eewwookk

A tisket A tasket I need A new Gasket!!!!!

Post #1 by eewwookk » Tue Dec 10, 2002 3:34 pm

I am sporting the original gasket on my greasy six. what material do you reccomend for a new one? cork? what tips do you guys have when replacing my seals. :o

Falcon62
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Post #2 by Falcon62 » Tue Dec 10, 2002 6:17 pm

I know it's "old school", but I still prefer cork for valve cover and oil pan gaskets. The trick is to apply your choice of gasket sealer to the valve cover (or oil pan) only and then carefully place it on the head (block). Do not overtorque! Factory specs call for 3 - 5 ft lbs (36 - 60 inch lbs) for the valve cover and only 7 - 9 ft lbs (84 - 108 inch lbs) for the oil pan.

Overtightening the bolts will distort the valve cover, and you'll have leaks no matter what kind of gasket you use.

Which seals are you replacing?
Phil, USAF Retired
'61 Futura 2dr
'62 Sports Futura, 200/C4
ASE Master Re-Certified Collision & Refinishing Technician

eewwookk

theese

Post #3 by eewwookk » Wed Dec 11, 2002 10:01 pm

Im just changing the valve cover and oil pan gaskets for now.

so neoprine* (spelling?) is not the way to go?

RogueS

Post #4 by RogueS » Wed Dec 11, 2002 10:04 pm

we use that one stuff that comes in the gold can, something like gold primer or something like that, i dont really remember, spray it and it gets sticky

Falcon62
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Post #5 by Falcon62 » Thu Dec 12, 2002 11:53 am

Neoprene gaskets are fine, I just prefer cork. The problem most people have is they overtorque the valve cover and/or oil pan bolts and end up distorting the sealing surface. Since neoprene has more density than cork, it appears to be able to sustain a higher torque load before squishing out. Problem is, the sealing surface is not designed to take a higher torque load and distorts. IMO, this is why so many people use neoprene instead of cork, they simply do not understand what's happening.

One thing you can try are some "wings" under the valve cover bolts to help spread the torque more evenly across the sealing surface. Check out any parts house or online places like Summit or Jeg's.

Another thing to do, is start tightening the bolts at the center of the valve cover/oil pan and work your way out, much the same as torqueing (sp?) a head. I use a 1/4" nut driver to do this and only snug lightly the first time around. Then I gradually snug up a little more and use an inch pound torque wrench to get factory spec - then no more! The result - no leaky gaskets.

That said, you can successfully use either. Just follow the manufacturer's directions for any sealants required and install to factory torque specs.

BTW, I believe the sealer RogueS is referring to is called CopperCoat. This was my favorite sealer for many gaskets when it was still available in a non-aerosol can. I haven't used any of the aerosol so I can't comment on it's effectiveness.
Phil, USAF Retired
'61 Futura 2dr
'62 Sports Futura, 200/C4
ASE Master Re-Certified Collision & Refinishing Technician

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