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1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

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CoupeBoy
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1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #1 by CoupeBoy » Wed Dec 10, 2014 11:49 am

Some of you have been around long enough to remember when 6 years ago I had to blow apart my front suspension for some structural repair.
Mustang Upgrades this week (Month)
The car itself had the suspension redone and the exterior was painted in Dec 2000 so its showing some age. The body isn't getting repainted any time soon, I'll continue to touch it up as needed.
What it does need is an overhaul of the suspension system, unknown miles total since rebuild. I can tell you that my wife put on a lot of miles last summer. 25 miles each way to work, 5 days a week for work, plus gym on Saturday she drove it basically from late March - first week in November. Good grief I hope my math is wrong.. that means 7 months, 4 weeks per month, at least 300 miles per week.. 12600. (which means I didn't change the oil nearly often enough)

Truthfully I never drive the car, I never see the miles rack up. The only reason I even changed the oil was because I drove it one day and when it was at highway speed the oil pressure was below the 'low' mark on the gauge. Let it forever be known that I am a bad car owner :nono: (I need a facepalm emoticon, I never did the math on how much she drove until I started typing this)

So back on topic..
The car currently has 4 wheel NON-power drum brakes, which were rebuilt in (you guessed it) 2000
Stock style export brace, no Monte Carlo
Saggy rear leaf springs
Idler Arm that needs to be replaced -- steering box isn't that tight either...

I'll need to do a lot of this rather quickly so if you have any information that you want to know about any of these conversions, ask early and ask often. I won't actually be able to drive the car with the motor swaps in it because hopefully I'll have the suspension blown apart, but I am willing to measure anything or make/mock anything you like while its apart. I have a 'brief' 3 month window in which to get this all done. When March rolls around it has to be going back together for Summer driving or else I may as well find a new home :lol:

The plan Broken down in the 3 main areas..
Engine/Transmission
1. pull current motor (its v-shaped and displaces 289 cubes)
2. Install a 1975 250 (i6)
2a. With stock 170/200 mounts (taking measurements and noting where modifications can be made)
2b. With stock 1969 Mustang 250 (i6) motor mounts (more measuring)
2c. With the Custom i6 Motor Mounts that I created a while back.
3. Install 1970 170 i6 using the i6 to SBF adapter that I created.
3a. First with stock i6 frame and motor mounts
3b. Replace those with the Custom i6 Motor Mounts that I created.
4. Install a 240 or 300, design and build custom conversion motor mounts.
5. Design and at least mock up a couple intake/exhaust combinations (eventually for my '67 Mustang Coupe)
5a. With a 1pc int/exh flange I'll make a MPFI/Turbo setup
5b. With a 2pc setup I'll make a standard 4bbl/header setup.
6. Reinstall v-shaped motor with custom SBF motor mounts (sorry guys, the car is the way my wife wants it)
Image
backed by an AOD also on a custom Crossmember (should work for a T5 or AOD.. I'll find out soon enough)
Image

A teaser shot... these parts are already cut, just waiting to have the edges ground smooth, sanded and painted..
LCA tubular strut plates (2 styles -- standard/coil over)
T5/AOD crossmember
Tubular export/monte carlo plates
Custom i6 Motor mounts

Image
Last edited by CoupeBoy on Wed Dec 10, 2014 1:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild (on hold for the Season 3/1/2015)
1963.5 Falcon Convertible Build (just getting started 3/15/2015)
Case 1830 Skidsteer FordSix Repower Thread (started 4/4/2015)
1970 170/C4
1967 200/C4
1965 240/bellhousing/flywheel/clutch/3.03 bell pattern
1975 250/flexplate
1975 300/flywheel

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #2 by CoupeBoy » Wed Dec 10, 2014 11:50 am

While the engine(s) are out, I plan on doing some work to the engine bay itself.
Body/Structural
1. adding more bracing (ala Boss 302)
Image
I could buy a kit, but its just steel. I will template, mock, and build my own.
For those that want to buy a kit, OpenTracker sells a Tower Kit $199
2. Build a Race Style belly bar to tie the Lower Control Arm (LCA) mount bolts together.
3. Eccentric Eliminators
4. Box the UCA and LCA (I have drawings from OpenTracker)
5. Tubular Strut Rods

.... more info to come.. got called away for work.. wanted to save this post spot..
1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild (on hold for the Season 3/1/2015)
1963.5 Falcon Convertible Build (just getting started 3/15/2015)
Case 1830 Skidsteer FordSix Repower Thread (started 4/4/2015)
1970 170/C4
1967 200/C4
1965 240/bellhousing/flywheel/clutch/3.03 bell pattern
1975 250/flexplate
1975 300/flywheel

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #3 by CoupeBoy » Wed Dec 10, 2014 11:50 am

Suspension.. (again.. just wanted to save this post spot) more later today I promise..

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #4 by CoupeBoy » Thu Dec 11, 2014 7:15 am

Yesterday I cut the brackets for the tubular strut rods and started machining the clevice for the front of the rod.
Image
Close up of that drawing
Image

Future project..

Eccentric Eliminators
Image

Both of these parts were provided by a guy named buening, he's active on several other forums, he gives away this info for free. I'll start build threads for these and get them linked back to the original source. And as always, if you see something you like or want more info on.. just ask.
Last edited by CoupeBoy on Fri Dec 12, 2014 10:35 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #5 by Invectivus » Thu Dec 11, 2014 10:09 am

Personally, I'd lean toward a big bell block, so put the 289 back or toss in the 250. Is one a better motor today, or does one need a rebuild?

I wish I had time for this, I'm only half way through my starter mod, let alone do a head swap or rebuild one of my 250s. I'd like to put a 250 in my bronco, though that's harder than the mustang.
1967 mustang coupe - 200ci, 69 dizzy, adjustable rockers, headers and dual exhaust, T5.

1964 convertible falcon - Gutted.

1973 EB Bronco - 302ci (sorry!) DUI ignition, C4/D20, Dana 44, 33's

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #6 by CoupeBoy » Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:58 pm

None of my 250/240/300's are ready to be used. The 302/AOD are low mileage out of an 84 crown Vic, free to me from my dad.

Locally there is a guy I know that has an early bronco, he has both v8 and i6 frames. I've considered asking if I could use/rent them as they are not drivable. I'd like to make some 250/240/300 motor mounts.
1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild (on hold for the Season 3/1/2015)
1963.5 Falcon Convertible Build (just getting started 3/15/2015)
Case 1830 Skidsteer FordSix Repower Thread (started 4/4/2015)
1970 170/C4
1967 200/C4
1965 240/bellhousing/flywheel/clutch/3.03 bell pattern
1975 250/flexplate
1975 300/flywheel

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #7 by 1966Mustang » Sun Dec 14, 2014 12:02 am

Looks good! I'm getting back into this. I've got my car up on stands, getting ready to cut out the rear frame rails... :cry:
'65 Mustang Coupe, C4, DUI, CompCams 260, Addco 1", StreetOrTrack Front Bilstein Coilover System, Bilstein Rear Shocks, 4-1/2 leaf springs.

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #8 by CoupeBoy » Mon Dec 15, 2014 1:59 pm

1966Mustang wrote:Looks good! I'm getting back into this. I've got my car up on stands, getting ready to cut out the rear frame rails... :cry:
And yet you don't reply to my email request to see if you are alive.... :nono:

All the major components for the Custom Strut Rods is complete
Custom Built Strut Rods -- FordSix.com
Image
And starting to pick out leaf Springs (well trying anyhow)
Leaf Spring Selection -- FordSix.com
Just started working on info for building one of these..
Finished my Cobra Automotive-like 70 Engine Crossmember -- StangFix.com
IMG_5106a_600.jpg

I also plan on doing a disk brake swap on the front using this info..
Cheap Big Disc Brakes Mustang/Falcon -- FordMuscleForums.com
And over the weekend I borrowed a GM B-body caliper and one of his rear axle weld on brackets to come up with this...
IMG_0058_800.jpg

IMG_0059_800.jpg

The remaining information that I need is the drum backing plate bolt dimensions (and the spindle center in relation to them) and then to chose an appropriate angle to mount the caliper.
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1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild (on hold for the Season 3/1/2015)
1963.5 Falcon Convertible Build (just getting started 3/15/2015)
Case 1830 Skidsteer FordSix Repower Thread (started 4/4/2015)
1970 170/C4
1967 200/C4
1965 240/bellhousing/flywheel/clutch/3.03 bell pattern
1975 250/flexplate
1975 300/flywheel

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #9 by bubba22349 » Mon Dec 15, 2014 10:58 pm

Wow quite the undertaking I like everything (Mods) you have planed. Years ago on a 66 Fastback I jacked the towers back straight again and made my own tower beefing plates (Boss 302 style) with the 289 in place. Needless to say it was a bit crude looking compared to yours and harder to weld but I can highly recommend that mod it turned out great and was the best handling Mustang I have ever had. On the caliper mounting location I am thinking that rear location at about the 1:00 to 2:00 position might be the best as it would provide some protection from road debris, mud etc. Good luck on the rebuild. :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #10 by CoupeBoy » Tue Dec 16, 2014 3:07 pm

The repairs that were done in 2008 (fully welding the reinforcement plates to the shock towers and adding the Export Brace plus the roller spring perches) turned this car into a different vehicle, much more solid.
This round, should put me close to "cheap" new car territory.. I'll never have modern Traction Control, but then again.. do I want it? :twisted:

If I had a drive on lift, I'd be in heaven.

Projects that are not on the list this year either..
Rack and Pinion Steering
Progressive Rate Coil Springs
Jacking plates for Subframe Connectors
Convertible Inner Rocker Panels
1pc convertible seat pan
6pt Roll cage

Back on track...

Started a thread on the Disc Brake Caliper plates.
DIY Disk Brakes -- FordSix Forum
Image

Next up, pull the cardboard seat divider I made last year and measure it, then template it, then post it (bugs me that I can't find that info easily)
I designed some LCA tie downs too and am working on some new leaf spring plates that incorporate hoops for tie downs.

This is an old post, but I still find it interesting to read through every once in a while. I wish I had free time and space to test some of this stuff myself.
Torsional rigidity test: 67 coupe -- StangNet.com Forum
Page 1 is interesting, but he discovers a flaw that he corrects starting on page 2.

There are a couple things that I received the information from the original source or plan on making my own copy of somebody else's product that I will not be providing dimensions for.
Boxing plates for the Control Arms
You may want to email John at OpenTracker Racing. I did *years* ago and he physically mailed pieces of paper that are intended to be cut out and then hand cut from 1/8" flat plate steel.

Tank Armor
My coworker (the Cincinnati Brake Press Operator) says making my own would be easy
For the rest of you, contact them directly, the owner is a member here named Vin Man
I wish I had a 70 Mustang 22 gallon tank before building this, alas.. future upgrades.

And I haven't found this anywhere, but I really want one.. People make them, I just haven't seen one I like..

Torque Arm for traction control.
Thinking of making one that attaches to the axle tube, fixed at the bottom, adjustable at the top. Extend it forward and attache it with a shackle to a custom crossmember that also incorporates a drive shaft Safety Loop


And I still need shocks, anybody got a recommendation for something reasonably priced, hopefully that I can buy and replace at a local auto parts store?
1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild (on hold for the Season 3/1/2015)
1963.5 Falcon Convertible Build (just getting started 3/15/2015)
Case 1830 Skidsteer FordSix Repower Thread (started 4/4/2015)
1970 170/C4
1967 200/C4
1965 240/bellhousing/flywheel/clutch/3.03 bell pattern
1975 250/flexplate
1975 300/flywheel

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #11 by cr_bobcat » Thu Feb 12, 2015 10:50 am

Excellent stuff! I've got some outlaws (wife's sister) that live in the Fargo area. You're making me want to take a trip up with the '67 for some work. I wish I had the patience and mechanical chops to pull off the stuff you're doin.

I had forgotten about the 250 custom mounts you had fab'd before. Is that something that would mount right into my '67 coupe? I recently purchased a 250 off of Craigslist for $100. Basically only bought it for the head. To be honest, I was only after the C4 that he wanted $100 for but decided the price on the 250. I'm not rebuilding the bottom end of either engine right now, but always like to think about options....

Prost! :beer:
Block: Stock C8 Block/pistons, C9-M head, 1.75/1.5 valves, dual spring, 1.65 RAU Rockers, port divider, direct mount Holley 4412-500, HEI w/20* advance, manifold vac, dual-out Arvinode exhaust, Clay Smith 264/274 110* installed w/ 4* advance, adjustable dual chain timing, C4 w/ shift kit, 3.20 (TBC) rear ratio, 9.44 SCR / 7.97 DCR

Build that Six with parts from http://www.vintageinlines.com

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #12 by CoupeBoy » Thu Feb 12, 2015 1:39 pm

cr_bobcat wrote:Excellent stuff! I've got some outlaws (wife's sister) that live in the Fargo area. You're making me want to take a trip up with the '67 for some work. I wish I had the patience and mechanical chops to pull off the stuff you're doin.
Big plans, now if only I could find the time to get it done.. free time seems to be my mystical than a unicorn
cr_bobcat wrote:I had forgotten about the 250 custom mounts you had fab'd before. Is that something that would mount right into my '67 coupe?
This picture shows a stock 200 mount next to the ones I built. When used with a 250, the top bolt hole would be used to lower the motor 1", and the slots allow for the wider block.
Image
So in theory, should bolt right in. Problem is that NOBODY has installed a set to verify it yet..

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #13 by cr_bobcat » Thu Feb 12, 2015 4:04 pm

Will this effectively provide me more hood clearance with the 200 that's already in there? I'm extremely limited on air cleaner options because of this. Well, that and my straight Monte Carlo bar. I really need to try to find a curved one for the I6. I'd take it out but don't want to give up the improved handling. I can't imagine they're too hard to fab with the right tools on hand
Block: Stock C8 Block/pistons, C9-M head, 1.75/1.5 valves, dual spring, 1.65 RAU Rockers, port divider, direct mount Holley 4412-500, HEI w/20* advance, manifold vac, dual-out Arvinode exhaust, Clay Smith 264/274 110* installed w/ 4* advance, adjustable dual chain timing, C4 w/ shift kit, 3.20 (TBC) rear ratio, 9.44 SCR / 7.97 DCR

Build that Six with parts from http://www.vintageinlines.com

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #14 by cr_bobcat » Thu Feb 12, 2015 4:15 pm

Appears that they actually are still available with the offset curve! I might have to make a purchase....

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy ... 1=A600W+01
Block: Stock C8 Block/pistons, C9-M head, 1.75/1.5 valves, dual spring, 1.65 RAU Rockers, port divider, direct mount Holley 4412-500, HEI w/20* advance, manifold vac, dual-out Arvinode exhaust, Clay Smith 264/274 110* installed w/ 4* advance, adjustable dual chain timing, C4 w/ shift kit, 3.20 (TBC) rear ratio, 9.44 SCR / 7.97 DCR

Build that Six with parts from http://www.vintageinlines.com

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #15 by CoupeBoy » Thu Feb 12, 2015 4:29 pm

The six cylinder ones are different from the v8 ones. The curve is different.
That link didn't open for me.
Back at my desk I've got a picture of a straight one that may interest you.

My motor mounts with a 200 would allow you to drop the motor lower in the engine bay.
And the plates that bolt to the motor have enough "meat" that you could also still another set of bolt holes to move the motor rearward if you needed to. (Better balance or fan/radiator clearance)

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #16 by cr_bobcat » Thu Feb 12, 2015 4:36 pm

I've got a straight one installed right now. MustangsUnlimited seems to be the one place left that has the offset curve for the I6. At $35 maybe I should just go for it. I'll try the link again...

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy ... 1=A600W+01
Block: Stock C8 Block/pistons, C9-M head, 1.75/1.5 valves, dual spring, 1.65 RAU Rockers, port divider, direct mount Holley 4412-500, HEI w/20* advance, manifold vac, dual-out Arvinode exhaust, Clay Smith 264/274 110* installed w/ 4* advance, adjustable dual chain timing, C4 w/ shift kit, 3.20 (TBC) rear ratio, 9.44 SCR / 7.97 DCR

Build that Six with parts from http://www.vintageinlines.com

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #17 by bubba22349 » Thu Feb 12, 2015 5:37 pm

A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #18 by CoupeBoy » Thu Feb 12, 2015 5:51 pm

While that does look like the right one, I was actually thinking something like this..
MonteCarlo_592.jpg
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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #19 by CoupeBoy » Thu Feb 12, 2015 6:14 pm

To reduce the murkiness of my build thread, I started another one that has pictures and a description of the six cylinder specific Monte Carlo Brace
Six Cylinder Monte Carlo Brace (with pictures) -- FordSix Forum
cheers! :beer:
1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild (on hold for the Season 3/1/2015)
1963.5 Falcon Convertible Build (just getting started 3/15/2015)
Case 1830 Skidsteer FordSix Repower Thread (started 4/4/2015)
1970 170/C4
1967 200/C4
1965 240/bellhousing/flywheel/clutch/3.03 bell pattern
1975 250/flexplate
1975 300/flywheel

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #20 by CoupeBoy » Wed Mar 18, 2015 2:27 pm

Well this guy got put on hold for the Summer Season. Winter was cold and free time never happened.

This spring it got exactly what it needed.
New front tires
The Brakes cleaned and adjusted.

Started the Season with the Odometer reading 67332 (The speedometer is not original to the car, I use the readings to keep track of when to change oil, that's about all its good for)
Image

I hope to sneak in some simple upgrades though if possible, rear seat divider, gas tank cover, hopefully subframe connectors. Maybe even roll those front fender lips.


All is not lost though.
I'll take my ideas and apply them to the car I brought home last weekend (3/15/2015)
1963.5 Falcon Convertible Build -- FordSix Forum
Image

Onward and upward...

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #21 by CoupeBoy » Mon Apr 20, 2015 1:03 pm

The weekend of 4/12/15, I changed the oil on the Mustang. And I was greeted by this little surprise.
Image
I had two options..
1. Finish the Tubular Strut Rods that I started earlier this year.
2. Replace the bushings with new ones.

So I took steps to do both.
1. Ordered the rod ends, jam nuts, DOM tubing, and 5/8 RH and LH taps
2. Ordered Strut Rod Bushings from Autozone (duralast FA939)

The parts to take care of the problem with solution B arrived on Saturday.
Tools required
Floor Jack
Jack Stands
Trouble light
7/8" 1/2" drive deep socket
1" 1/2" drive deep socket
12" 1/2" drive extension
1/2" ratchet
7/8" 3/8" drive deep socket
4" 3/8" drive extension
3/8" ratchet
diagonal pliers
1 1/8" box end wrench

Jack up the car, place the stands, throw down a piece of cardboard and get to work.

I didn't do a step by step because it would have been boring.. remove safety nut from the front of the strut, remove the front nut from the bushing, remove the washer cup, remove the bushing.
Remove the nuts that attach the strut rod to the Lower Control Arm (LCA).
Pull it out of the car, take a picture.
Image
I took it apart, even the good bushing was starting to show signs of failure
Image
Image
I was a little surprised by now off center the washers seemed to fit up against the bushings. But my guess is that this is how strut rods snap/break.
Image
the washer was cutting into the bushing pretty heavily on one side but not the other.
Image
Even the inside bushing has some heavily off center rub marks.
Image

This is the new bushing setup, it didn't come with instructions AND being that this is North Dakota, the parts stores are closed before noon, and I couldn't find anybody's install online. So I decided that this is order that I plan on installing the parts.
Image
I reassembled the strut rod back into the car in reverse order that I took it out. I used measurements that I took (very non-scientific) to get the strut rod length back to 'similar' to the ones I took out.
Another thing I noticed was that my idler arm was flopping all over. Not just a bad bushing, the bolts that attach it onto the unibody frame were loose, so I cranked those down tight.
Tools used were a 9/16" box end wrench
9/16" 1/2" drive socket
1.5ft of 1/2" extensions.

I also grabbed a piece of a 4" fence post, wrapped it in black tape, then jacked up the car and used it to roll the fender.
Before (you can see that the tire has been grabbing the fender lip and pulling it down)
Image
After
Image
1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild (on hold for the Season 3/1/2015)
1963.5 Falcon Convertible Build (just getting started 3/15/2015)
Case 1830 Skidsteer FordSix Repower Thread (started 4/4/2015)
1970 170/C4
1967 200/C4
1965 240/bellhousing/flywheel/clutch/3.03 bell pattern
1975 250/flexplate
1975 300/flywheel

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #22 by CoupeBoy » Mon Apr 20, 2015 1:17 pm

Another thing that was glaringly obvious was that I need to add in some sort of lateral control on the rearend.
when I jacked up the first side of the car, it looked like the axle moved toward the driver side a good 3-4"

My car doesn't normally have that 'dune buggy' feel to it.
Image
And the other side, sunken in
Image
Image

Not entirely sure what this means, just new leaf springs, or if I need (want) to add some additional stabilization via a track arm or watts link.
I've got an idler arm bushing that just showed up today.
And once the parts I ordered for the tubular strut rods shows up, I'll complete those and then swap out the original style rods for the improved ones.

Paint still looks pretty good for something that was done in a garage 15 years ago, if you look long enough you might find some of the many places that I've touched up the rock and door chips.

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #23 by bubba22349 » Mon Apr 20, 2015 1:29 pm

You Might take a look at the rear spring bushings and shackles the rears can wear out and the shackle pins could be worn and or the welds broken. Both are fast and easy to replace Good luck :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #24 by CoupeBoy » Mon Apr 20, 2015 1:55 pm

And that may be the case. But this car also has air shocks in the rear that I'd like to retire. I'm heading to the parts store now to get my idler arm bushing. And I also need to pick up a rear view mirror glue kit (mirror fell off). I'll check out the bushing prices.

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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #25 by bubba22349 » Sat May 02, 2015 12:45 pm

:hmmm: How are all the suspention repairs and upgrades, coming along?
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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CoupeBoy
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Location: Fargo, ND
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Re: 1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild

Post #26 by CoupeBoy » Sat May 02, 2015 4:44 pm

After I installed the strut rod bushing, my wife has been driving it daily. I have been email corresponding with OpenTracker about building a watts link. He is highly recommending Del Alum bushings. The problem is that my springs are well worn and should be replaced ($220 for a kit) Del Alum bushing kit is $200. I will be doing the springs before the bushings.

I've done other work on the car.
Hood rubber bumpers.
Headlight adjusting hardware, fixed the hi/low indicator also.
I have a new HEI distributor in a box. $55 special from amazon

As soon as I get a 3g alternator ill install them at the same time.

Speakers are on order.

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