First Car 1966 Rebuild Project

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tpsettle_66
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First Car 1966 Rebuild Project

Post #1 by tpsettle_66 » Tue Jan 17, 2017 2:58 pm

Hello to all,

There is so much information on here that at times it get overwhelming, but thank you. I figured I would post pics and create my build thread for the mustang. It is '66, 200 I6, 3 speed manual. It was my first car in high school and luckily my wife never let me sell it. Unfortunately it sat outside for the past 11yrs or so, but there is relatively low rust other than normal areas that will be replace with quarters and fenders in the future. I now have it inside and the time and gaining $$ to work on the restoration of the car. It will be a complete project, but I am going to try and only ask questions right now for the stage that I am at. Here is what's been done.

1. Get inside (done)
2. Get it running (done) Changed all of the rubber on the fuel lines and cleaned lines. New fuel sending unit, fuel filter. Changed oil/filter in rear end, engine, transmission. Opened all brakes, blead all lines with new fluid, changed wheel cylinder and fixed the E brake. New ignition switch and key locks (couldn't find the keys, found them after all locks were changed! I knew it would happen.)
3. Drive it (done 1/8/17)
4. Steering/Driveline/Suspension: Now comes the questions.
I would like to convert to V8 steering: Spindles, inner & outter tie rods, idler arm & bracket, pitman arm, centerlink. Is there anything else needed for the front end?
Disk brakes, been looking at the mustangsteve conversion and really like the 17in wheels. Thoughts?
1" Drop: Looking at this modification, coil spring kits look to be mid 100's, but I am wondering about the rear springs. Would I be better off getting the mid eye 1" springs, or the lowering blocks? My springs were re-arched in high school and look to be 4 1/2 leafs. The car does not sag, but I am sure a newer spring would stiffen the suspension up. Thoughts?
Change rear end to 8in if I can find a mustang one or other to bolt in.


I am going to try to acquire as much as possible then do a large swap over if it is feasible, but depends on $$ and time. Sorry for the long post, I appreciate any comments and opinions as many of you have much more experience than I do right now.

Tim

I
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B RON CO
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Re: First Car 1966 Rebuild Project

Post #2 by B RON CO » Tue Jan 17, 2017 4:46 pm

Hi, nice project. We upgraded our Mustang with a TMI seat upgrade. One of the choices is a sport seat with modern bolsters on the original frames. I see you got the Pony interior, cool. We kept the original Ford styled steel wheel which I feel really belongs on the car. I'm happy with the smaller tire look, P205 75R14. I guess I'm more of an original style guy, what the guy in the 60's might do. It is easier to steer a smaller tire. My car looks lower than yours. What size tires are on there now? Have fun and good luck
B RON CO. Still workin' on it!

1933 Ford Pickup - 59A Flathead V8
1966 Ford Bronco - U14 - 170/200 Straight 6
1966 Ford Mustang - 289 V8

tpsettle_66
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Re: First Car 1966 Rebuild Project

Post #3 by tpsettle_66 » Tue Jan 17, 2017 5:15 pm

by B RON CO » Tue Jan 17, 2017 3:46 pm

Hi, nice project. We upgraded our Mustang with a TMI seat upgrade. One of the choices is a sport seat with modern bolsters on the original frames. I see you got the Pony interior, cool. We kept the original Ford styled steel wheel which I feel really belongs on the car. I'm happy with the smaller tire look, P205 75R14. I guess I'm more of an original style guy, what the guy in the 60's might do. It is easier to steer a smaller tire. My car looks lower than yours. What size tires are on there now? Have fun and good luck



B RON CO,
Thanks for the reply, I have seen the TMI interior and seat upgrades, probably look at something like that when i get to the interior. I like the extra room and side support of those seats. I am running right now, but they are dry rotted, 205 70R14 in front and 235 60R14 in rear.
Tim

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Re: First Car 1966 Rebuild Project

Post #4 by B RON CO » Tue Jan 17, 2017 5:37 pm

Hi, try the front tire on the rear and see how you like it. Good luck
B RON CO. Still workin' on it!

1933 Ford Pickup - 59A Flathead V8
1966 Ford Bronco - U14 - 170/200 Straight 6
1966 Ford Mustang - 289 V8

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Re: First Car 1966 Rebuild Project

Post #5 by bmbm40 » Tue Jan 17, 2017 7:45 pm

Great looking car and a fun project. The sheet metal looks straight so that is good. Probably already in your plan but a dual res master cylinder is worthwhile.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

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Re: First Car 1966 Rebuild Project

Post #6 by ags290 » Wed Jan 18, 2017 2:30 pm

Are you going to relocate the upper control arms with the "Arning Drop" to get your 1" lower ride height? I would recommend doing control arms while you are replacing the steering components since you are looking to replace the spindles with 8 cyl components. The upper and lower control arms are so cheap it isn't really worth the time to drill and replace the ball joints. Also its time to replace the spring perches while you have everything apart. Good shocks all the way around and new strut rod bushings and you should be ready for the road suspension wise. Just my 2 cents.
Kevin
Early 1965 Mustang with a 170

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rocklord
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Re: First Car 1966 Rebuild Project

Post #7 by rocklord » Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:10 pm

I agree with ags290 about doing the Arning Drop, better known as the Shelby Drop.

If you change out the upper A-arms with new, look for ones that have grease (zerk) fittings.
Early Mustangs are notorious for squeaking when the bushings dry out.
Dan

Currently Own
1965 Mustang, 200CID, 3Spd
1964 Corvair Coupe, 164CID, 140HP, 4Spd
1961 Corvair Lakewood wagon, 145CID, 80HP, 2Spd Powerglide Auto.
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tpsettle_66
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Re: First Car 1966 Rebuild Project

Post #8 by tpsettle_66 » Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:54 pm

Great looking car and a fun project. The sheet metal looks straight so that is good. Probably already in your plan but a dual res master cylinder is worthwhile.


bmbm40,
Thanks for the reply. Yes, overall the body is straight, just replace the 4 quarters to save labor rather than working through the rust spots. A dual bowl will be done with the disk brakes in front. I didn't realize what a hazard the single bowl was until learning more about it now. Kind of scary to know I drove it for so long as a kid not knowing any better!

Are you going to relocate the upper control arms with the "Arning Drop" to get your 1" lower ride height? I would recommend doing control arms while you are replacing the steering components since you are looking to replace the spindles with 8 cyl components. The upper and lower control arms are so cheap it isn't really worth the time to drill and replace the ball joints. Also its time to replace the spring perches while you have everything apart. Good shocks all the way around and new strut rod bushings and you should be ready for the road suspension wise. Just my 2 cents.


ags290,

Thanks for the info. I will add the spring perches when the rear end is out, hadn't thought about those. On the control arm swap, I guess i didn't realize that they needed to be relocated with the "Shelby Drop". I would guess somewhere on the forum it talks about it, or is it an easy move? Looks like control arm sets with bushings and sway bar links run around 400 or so? Do you have any opinions on using the lowering blocks vs. new mid eye springs in rear? Thanks again.

If you change out the upper A-arms with new, look for ones that have grease (zerk) fittings.
Early Mustangs are notorious for squeaking when the bushings dry out.


rocklord,
Thanks for the info, I will make sure to look for parts with zerks, probably extend the life of them as well. Thanks.

Tim

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Re: First Car 1966 Rebuild Project

Post #9 by tpsettle_66 » Wed Jan 18, 2017 5:00 pm

Also its time to replace the spring perches while you have everything apart


ags290,

sorry i was thinking leaf springs, now I realize you meant perches for the coil springs.

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Re: First Car 1966 Rebuild Project

Post #10 by bubba22349 » Wed Jan 18, 2017 7:30 pm

tpsettle_66 wrote:Hello to all,

There is so much information on here that at times it get overwhelming, but thank you. I figured I would post pics and create my build thread for the mustang. It is '66, 200 I6, 3 speed manual. It was my first car in high school and luckily my wife never let me sell it. Unfortunately it sat outside for the past 11yrs or so, but there is relatively low rust other than normal areas that will be replace with quarters and fenders in the future. I now have it inside and the time and gaining $$ to work on the restoration of the car. It will be a complete project, but I am going to try and only ask questions right now for the stage that I am at. Here is what's been done.

1. Get inside (done)
2. Get it running (done) Changed all of the rubber on the fuel lines and cleaned lines. New fuel sending unit, fuel filter. Changed oil/filter in rear end, engine, transmission. Opened all brakes, blead all lines with new fluid, changed wheel cylinder and fixed the E brake. New ignition switch and key locks (couldn't find the keys, found them after all locks were changed! I knew it would happen.)
3. Drive it (done 1/8/17)
4. Steering/Driveline/Suspension: Now comes the questions.
I would like to convert to V8 steering: Spindles, inner & outter tie rods, idler arm & bracket, pitman arm, centerlink. Is there anything else needed for the front end?
Disk brakes, been looking at the mustangsteve conversion and really like the 17in wheels. Thoughts?
1" Drop: Looking at this modification, coil spring kits look to be mid 100's, but I am wondering about the rear springs. Would I be better off getting the mid eye 1" springs, or the lowering blocks? My springs were re-arched in high school and look to be 4 1/2 leafs. The car does not sag, but I am sure a newer spring would stiffen the suspension up. Thoughts?
Change rear end to 8in if I can find a mustang one or other to bolt in.


I am going to try to acquire as much as possible then do a large swap over if it is feasible, but depends on $$ and time. Sorry for the long post, I appreciate any comments and opinions as many of you have much more experience than I do right now.

Tim

I


That's looks like a Very nice and straight body and chassis too work with!

4. That's a good plan on your front chassis mods going with the V8 spindles and steering parts. Your steering box might not be any different from a V8 though measure the pitman shaft diameter and see if it matchs to a V8 pitman arm. A good upgrade for safety is to go with a later steering box 1968 Mustang up or even the Granada box and a later model collapsable steering column or an aftermarket column that has the adjustable steering position (i.e. A Tilt column that uses a rag joint). There are some new spindles being made that are like the Granada disk brake type but that also have the correct steering geometry for these early Mustangs (1964 1/2 to 1966). One suggestion I will give you is to do the LCA relocation ( also know as the Shelby drop) is a low budget mod that improves your handing and might also give you about 1/2 to 1 inch front end drop. The stock Mustang GT front sway bar is another good upgrade too or you can use an aftermarket. X2 on the duel master swap. I would likely use the mid eye springs but the lowering blocks would also work. Lastly a set of the old style Drag Master or Shelby traction bars and an aftermarket rear sway bar are also a couple of good up grades for the rear. I also have a chart somewhere that lists all the rim sizes with the right offsets that will fit these Mustangs if you happen to need that info. Good luck on the rebuild. :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: First Car 1966 Rebuild Project

Post #11 by tpsettle_66 » Thu Jan 19, 2017 3:27 pm

That's a good plan on your front chassis mods going with the V8 spindles and steering parts. Your steering box might not be any different from a V8 though measure the pitman shaft diameter and see if it matchs to a V8 pitman arm. A good upgrade for safety is to go with a later steering box 1968 Mustang up or even the Granada box and a later model collapsable steering column or an aftermarket column that has the adjustable steering position (i.e. A Tilt column that uses a rag joint). There are some new spindles being made that are like the Granada disk brake type but that also have the correct steering geometry for these early Mustangs (1964 1/2 to 1966). One suggestion I will give you is to do the LCA relocation ( also know as the Shelby drop) is a low budget mod that improves your handing and might also give you about 1/2 to 1 inch front end drop. The stock Mustang GT front sway bar is another good upgrade too or you can use an aftermarket. X2 on the duel master swap. I would likely use the mid eye springs but the lowering blocks would also work. Lastly a set of the old style Drag Master or Shelby traction bars and an aftermarket rear sway bar are also a couple of good up grades for the rear. I also have a chart somewhere that lists all the rim sizes with the right offsets that will fit these Mustangs if you happen to need that info. Good luck on the rebuild. :nod:


bubba 22349,

Thanks for the reply, I like all of your ideas. Planning on the steering box column, do you know if I found a '68 steering box, would that change the centerlink needed or still just the manual steering v8? One other question on the Shelby drop, with that drop should I look at the Shelby Pitman arm, or just the standard v8 as well. If you find the chart on wheel sizes, i would take that as well. Thanks!

Tim

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Re: First Car 1966 Rebuild Project

Post #12 by bubba22349 » Fri Jan 20, 2017 12:31 am

tpsettle_66 wrote:
That's a good plan on your front chassis mods going with the V8 spindles and steering parts. Your steering box might not be any different from a V8 though measure the pitman shaft diameter and see if it matchs to a V8 pitman arm. A good upgrade for safety is to go with a later steering box 1968 Mustang up or even the Granada box and a later model collapsable steering column or an aftermarket column that has the adjustable steering position (i.e. A Tilt column that uses a rag joint). There are some new spindles being made that are like the Granada disk brake type but that also have the correct steering geometry for these early Mustangs (1964 1/2 to 1966). One suggestion I will give you is to do the LCA relocation ( also know as the Shelby drop) is a low budget mod that improves your handing and might also give you about 1/2 to 1 inch front end drop. The stock Mustang GT front sway bar is another good upgrade too or you can use an aftermarket. X2 on the duel master swap. I would likely use the mid eye springs but the lowering blocks would also work. Lastly a set of the old style Drag Master or Shelby traction bars and an aftermarket rear sway bar are also a couple of good up grades for the rear. I also have a chart somewhere that lists all the rim sizes with the right offsets that will fit these Mustangs if you happen to need that info. Good luck on the rebuild. :nod:


bubba 22349,

Thanks for the reply, I like all of your ideas. Planning on the steering box column, do you know if I found a '68 steering box, would that change the centerlink needed or still just the manual steering v8? One other question on the Shelby drop, with that drop should I look at the Shelby Pitman arm, or just the standard v8 as well. If you find the chart on wheel sizes, i would take that as well. Thanks!

Tim


Hi Tim, the center link is determined by the Chassis year and its width. The 1967 and up Mustangs have a bit wider chassis as they were designed so that the big block V8 engines would fit into them (like the 390, 428, FE's and later on the 351 W's & C's, 429's). So you will want to use the stock 1965 / 1966 V8 center link and tie rods. On the Shelby pitman arm that depends if you also want the quicker steering rate that they had. The early model Shelbys were almost full on race cars they used the power steering gears in the steering box to also give a quicker steering rate too (i.e. Without the power assist). Ok it will take me awhile to find that wheel chart in my old computer files when I do will post it for you. Good luck :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: First Car 1966 Rebuild Project

Post #13 by bubba22349 » Fri Jan 20, 2017 7:09 am

Hi Tim, there are some wheels up to 18 inch that will fit early Mustangs. Here is info from the old chart I have you might have look for a tire size conversion to newer current tire sizes and maybe also do a MIlimeter (MM) conversion with some brands of newer wheels. Good luck :nod:

Ford Mustang Aftermarket Tire & Wheel Sizes
Halibrand Engineering researched the Mustang wheel/tire sizing issue. For optimum results, they suggest living within these parameters for the early Mustang’s



1964 To 66 MUSTANG WHEEL/TIRE FITMENT
Wheel Size Correct Backspace Suggested Tire Size
15x6 4.000 in P215/70R15
15x7 4.250 in P225/60R15
15x8 4.500 in (rear only) P255/60R15 to P235/60R15
16x7 4.250 in P205/55R16 to P255/60R16
16x8 4.500 in (rear only) P225/50R16
17x7 4.250 in P205/50ZR17
17x8 4.500 in (rear only) P235/45ZR17
18x7 4.250 in P225/40ZR18
18x8 4.500 in (rear only) P245/40ZR18 to P265/35ZR18
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: First Car 1966 Rebuild Project

Post #14 by tpsettle_66 » Fri Jan 20, 2017 12:51 pm

Hi Tim, the center link is determined by the Chassis year and its width. The 1967 and up Mustangs have a bit wider chassis as they were designed so that the big block V8 engines would fit into them (like the 390, 428, FE's and later on the 351 W's & C's, 429's). So you will want to use the stock 1965 / 1966 V8 center link and tie rods. On the Shelby pitman arm that depends if you also want the quicker steering rate that they had. The early model Shelbys were almost full on race cars they used the power steering gears in the steering box to also give a quicker steering rate too (i.e. Without the power assist).


bubba22349,
Thanks so much for the information. I ordered a bunch of front end parts yesterday that were on sale. I went with the normal pitman arm as the shelby combo was 1/4 of the $$for those 2 pieces of what I was already spending. I'll dive more into the tire sizes as I get closer to that point. Moving forward though, should be picking up spindles this weekend. Thanks!
Tim

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bubba22349
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Re: First Car 1966 Rebuild Project

Post #15 by bubba22349 » Sat Jan 21, 2017 6:23 am

Your very welcome, good luck on the build :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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