Who has experience with International's DT360?

crash-harris

Famous Member
I've started the early planning on a future project (many years down the road) that I plan to power with a mechanically injected International DT360 and a 10-speed Road Ranger SAE2 tranny. As I have gathered so far, I would have to sacrifice my first born for someone to make an adapter plate for the ZF5 or ZF6 transmissions and the DT360 would more than likely tear both of those to shreds anyway (hence the use of a medium duty transmission). I know that the DT360 is wet sleeved, making rebuilds easy and in frame. I want to find a 80-86 or 87-91 crew cab/long bed to start with, find another bed that I can steal the back half off and extend the bed box some (reasons will be explained soon). I want to strip everything down and use the factory Ford frame as a template to make my own 2x8" box frame to keep the DT from twisting it into a pretzel. Now, if your eyes haven't popped out at the amount of work this is going to take up to this point, the plan is to build a 6x6 on airbags :LOL: Ford D60 with DRW adapters up front with manual lock outs, standard Sterling 10.25" full floater for the mid axle and another behind it with a driver's side offset diff housing. The plan is to run a divorced, twin sticked NP205 with a NP200 output shaft added to it (from the offset driveline of the M715) and work out a oil pump and cooler for it with a 2-piece shaft to the front, a 1-piece shaft to the mid axle and a 2-piece shaft to the rear most axle that breaks over the driver's side axle tube of the mid axle. This will allow me to run just the mid axle in hi and lo ranges, both rear axles in hi and lo ranges, and with the hubs locked out up front, full 6x6 hi and lo range. Think cross county heavy 5th wheel hauler :p Also plan to run a 30-40 gallon rear tank with a heater in it for waste veggie oil.

For the suspension, the front is easy enough to set up on air bags, but for the rear 2 axles I'm thinking of making radius arms mounts that mimic tractor trailer bag over leaf spring brackets and building radius arms instead of using the springs. Set the bags on top of the axles instead of behind and run panhard bars from the center of each rear axle to the pass. side frame rail. This is the reasoning for the extra length of bed, 3-4' of it, and (the hardest part I think) grafting 2 dually fender flares to each other. (The girlfriend just started playing "Somethin' 'Bout A Truck"). The air bags will allow me to adjust the pressure from inside the cab depending on the load that I'm carrying with an on board air system.

My questions are regarding the DT360. First Q's are; What model air compressors are most common on these big oil burnin' diesel blocks and do they run off the timing gears like the Cummins compressors, or off a belt? I would prefer to have one that runs off the timing gears to minimize that amount of belt driven accessories the engine will have (more room for intercooler plumbing). For DT360's with manual transmissions, do they come factory with solid flywheels/can a solid flywheel be had for one without needing to be machined from scratch? Anyone have pictures of the motor mount coordinates on the block? Would 1410 series u-joints on everything but the back of the transmission be sufficient to deal with the torque from a slightly "touched" (1,000 ft. lbs. +/- 200 ft. lbs of torque) DT360 and a 10,000+ lbs. load? Would you guys be offended if I painted it in CAT colors? :mrgreen:

And remember, just working on getting everything planned out ahead of time. I still have a lot of work to do on Bruiser - getting the D60 up front and starting on the Cummins swap as well as my first WVO setup. Still have to get moved to NC when my lease runs up, build 2 houses, a shop, and a career so I can have the $$$$$$ to do this :LOL: Years down the road.

Cheers :beer:
 
What size truck are you going to be baseing this on? Have you thought about using a 88-97 F-450 (F-SUPERDUTY)frame?? There is a crew cab Cab& chassis in South Point at steels towing (I think, it could be a F-350 )?
I'd think the 450 wouldn't need as much reinforcement of the frame.
Paint it what color you want, as it is yours.
 
80broncoman":15uvg5kd said:
What size truck are you going to be baseing this on? Have you thought about using a 88-97 F-450 (F-SUPERDUTY)frame?? There is a crew cab Cab& chassis in South Point at steels towing (I think, it could be a F-350 )?
I'd think the 450 wouldn't need as much reinforcement of the frame.
Paint it what color you want, as it is yours.


7th (80-86) or 8th gen (87-91 brick nose), crew cab, long bed. I would only be using the body parts from whatever truck I can get for the project. I would only be using the factory frame as a jig to weld up a 2x8" box tube frame that would be a few feet longer and without the "hump" over the rear axle, but the same width as the pickup frame vs. the stripped chassis frame width (which is narrower).

Is there an ad on Craigslist for the stripped chassis truck in South Point? Never ventured into South Point, other than right off of Rt. 52 for groceries and materials so I'm not sure where Steel's is at. Gotta stop at Lowes on my way through there this weekend for some bolts to plug Bruiser's air ports in the 300...

Btw, I'm guessing you are relatively nearby? PM me :beer:

I would prefer to find one of these for this build -> http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/3580116731.html

Or one of these -> http://chillicothe.craigslist.org/cto/3644086964.html
 
I've also spoke to the fellas at Trail Worthy Fab about about H1 split rims with dually recenters and found out that they have had that project of the back burner for awhile. I'm guessing that they'll be producing them by the time I would be finalizing this project :oops:

I want all my trucks on H1 split rims with the PVC insert instead of the run-flats so I can mount/bead balance my own tires and not have to go looking for another tire shop to deal with. My favorite tire shop near my shop (ma/pa style, would mount/balance my 37's on 16.5's for $10-$15) closed down, found some guys here in Huntington (Used Tires - Rt. 60) that'll do the same thing for $15, but once I move to NC, I'll be out in the middle-o-nowhere.
 
Back
Top