My 55 F100 is running with the stock 223, mechanical fuel pump and Holley 1904 glass bowl carburetor. Although this does not happen all the time, occasionally while idling the gas will rise all the way to the top of the bowl and the engine will die. Although I suspect I may have some junk in the needle & seat, do these mechanical pumps put out too much pressure for the 1904 to handle? Would a fuel pressure regulator possibly help prevent this? Is anyone else with a stock set-up using a regulator? I am pretty frustrated and would like to drive my truck. Appreciate any advice! Steve
Fuel Pressure Regulators
- Thread starter Steves55
- Start date
The fuel pressure reg would not hurt but it should also be fine without one if everything is stock. Only way to know is to get one of the vacuum / fuel pressure tester and check or do a volume test. You only need about 3 to 5 psi any more it pushes the needle off the seat. 
Have you all ready made sure that the float hinge pin is moving freely? 
If not could cause sticking. Also check to see that the needle is still good if it's an old steel one they will wear a grove in them and don't seal as well get a new needle and seat one with a viton seat for less troubles. Last add a good fuel filter if you don’t all ready have one. There used to also be combo fuel reg with a filter and was glass so you could see any problems without taking it apart first. 
Have you all ready made sure that the float hinge pin is moving freely? If not could cause sticking. Also check to see that the needle is still good if it's an old steel one they will wear a grove in them and don't seal as well get a new needle and seat one with a viton seat for less troubles. Last add a good fuel filter if you don’t all ready have one. There used to also be combo fuel reg with a filter and was glass so you could see any problems without taking it apart first.
Sure if you want too they are one of the easiest carbs to work on or to rebuild.
Since you said your green on this will try to give you a few basic details. First wait until engine is cooled down and you will need a can or? To catch the fuel also cut yourself a piece of cardboard or use a small tray to place on top of intake this is just so you don’t drop and or lose any of the small parts. Take the four bowl cover screws out and remove the retainer ring and the glass bowl (wish I had a couple them for my 54 are getting hard to find). Pull the float pin the needle will be dropping out also so watch out for that (a small screwdriver or a pick would help to genitally hold it up place). Clean the pin with a small wire bush, fine sandpaper or etc. It’s cleaned and ready when the pin slides in and turn freely i.e. float drops easy. Would be good idea to get a can of spray carb cleaner and clean out the fuel bowl while you have it apart. I would have to see it but generally if the carb has not seen service in a long time more than likely the bowl gasket will need to be replaced. Inspect the needle for wear too while its out if its grooved replace. Lastly inspect the float the brass ones sometimes will have a crack and fill with fuel than it would need to be replaced or cleaned (open crack a little with a pick and shack the fuel out) than dry and solder the hole up. Link has couple pictures but since you have a glass bowl you probably can all ready see what needs to be done. Hope this is of some help Good Luck http://img710.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=holley1904.jpg
fmartin_gila
Well-known member
Little more info for you. I run a 62 F100 with a stock 223 and a glass bowl 1904. Been about 5 or 6 years now since a rebuild on the carb. It was set up exactly to specs as to float height, float drop and such, but would occasionally overflow as you are doing. After you get the bowl off and before you disassemble any further, look real close at where you adjust the float drop. Once in a while, the float will drop down and then little retainer can flip over and lock the float down, causing it to overflow. This will usually happen when you hit a little bump and jostle things at the right time for all this to happen. You will see which part has to be very slightly bent to prevent this from happening again.
Another thing, if the little wire clip isn't installed the right way, when the float drops it can pull the needle at a slight angle and get it slightly cocked in the seat, which will also cause it to flood. Study it very carefully and good luck.
Fred
Another thing, if the little wire clip isn't installed the right way, when the float drops it can pull the needle at a slight angle and get it slightly cocked in the seat, which will also cause it to flood. Study it very carefully and good luck.
Fred
Thanks Fred. I thought about posting this as a seperate thread but it may tie into my problem so here it goes. When I recently replaced my defective fuel pump with an Airtex 4208. I installed it with the outlets on the bottom and with the push lever angling downwards. It works fine but now I think this may have a connection to my Holley 1904 flooding problem. I read an article in one of those Ford F100 history books and it mentioned that the 54 & 55 6 cylinder models used an inverted pump. Interesting so I checked out the fuel pumps for 55's on Mac's Auto Parts website and sure enough the picture appears to be my Airtex pump only inverted. Did I install this incorrectly or am I using the wrong pump. I wasn't having flooding issues until I changed the pump. Maybe with the lever pointing downward is making it produce too much pressure. Needless to say I'm a bit confused on this one and my apologies if I managed to confuse anyone else reading this.
Would have to see a picture of your pump but doubt you could even bolt it on wrong by way it's made.
They did change pumps towards the end of production of 223 in 1960's (Carter’s)where they used pumps that are facing down with in and out also down Airtex was just a rebuilder so they may use any number of brands, years or style pump cores for an application. Here is some pictures of couple of early style pumps that could have been used the engine is a 54 (has vacuum pump for wiper). Mine is also a 54 and like this one except dose not have vacuum it has a glass bowl pointing up with in and out also up. http://img190.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=f ... elpump.jpg
fmartin_gila
Well-known member
The arm has to be angled UP if mounted properly. After looking at an old pump I still have, it looks like it could be installed upside down, but I don't know if it would work or not and don't know what the results would be.
Fred
Fred
fmartin_gila
Well-known member
NOTICE; PUBLIC APPOLOGY;;;
I am guilty of passing bad info. I hope it has not caused any undue problems. I just looked at the old pump I previously referenced and the pump mounted on the engine, I was visualizing it mounted wrong. THE PUMP ARM HAS TO BE ANGLED DOWN.
Fred
I am guilty of passing bad info. I hope it has not caused any undue problems. I just looked at the old pump I previously referenced and the pump mounted on the engine, I was visualizing it mounted wrong. THE PUMP ARM HAS TO BE ANGLED DOWN.
Fred