59 F-100 / 223 six...my project

Zac,

PM sent with my email.

I kind of understand what you are talking about but I could not determine a way to position that swivel bracket/linkage so it would work with my carb. Least not a way that it would bolt to anything. All I have right now is the piece hanging off my carb (the little spring arm in the first pic) and the bracket shown in the 2nd/3rd pics. I figure I can fabricate the rod that goes to my accelerator pedal linkage on the firewall.

The "custom" throttle cable and aluminum bar are coming out, I just havent removed them yet.


Updates...well, I went on vacation with the family this weekend. Nothing done on the truck BUT I did get my radiator and gas tank back from the shop on Friday :D

Putting up Christmas lights today (the wife is off work). Back on the truck tomorrow... ;)
 
sorry....NOT back on the truck today....still messing with xmas lights. My outdoor receptacles are not working for some reason. :|
 
Ok, I took a better look at your pics after I emailed you and we don't have the same pivot piece. I'm not sure which one is correct because the PO did lots of interesting things to the truck sometime in the past. Also, neither one looks like the illustration :unsure: I can only guess there might be differences between the car and truck set-ups? Or one, or both, of us has the wrong parts...

On my bracket (and it might be hard to tell from the pics I sent) it has a through bolt that goes through the actual pivot and bolts to the rear hole on the intake cast riser. The PCV mount bolts to both of the holes in the riser. There isn't any mounting holes 90* from the pivot like yours seems to have. It just stands upright, and pivots in the middle like a simple bellcrank.

The finnicky part on mine is where the linkage on the carb itself connects to the short upright link. It has to have a bend in it to clear the choke cam right above it. That bend then makes the upright link go off on a slant to the pivot bracket. It all works, but something is off. I haven't put too much effort into fixing it since I plan on going to a multiple carb set-up in the not too distant future.
 
Thanks for looking Zac. I just may have to rig up a temp solution to get me by. Might be able to modify the bracket I have to get it to work. We'll see...
 
That's awsome you're a member on here as well. I already posted a pic on the HAMB, but your right, your pivot arm is different. Dennis Carpenter should have what you need.
 
bubba22349":ykpv5gxt said:
Not sure if this will help you but here are some pictures of a stock 54 car setup. It looks kind of like the linkage you have.

http://img340.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=englinkage3.jpg

I think you could bolt it right to the intake to exhaust bolts next to the carb mount bolts and than a make up a rod to the gas pedal.
Click to expand...

Bubba, I am glad you posted those. That is exactly what I have and I actually had the bracket bolted right where your picture shows and still couldn't figure it out. I think I can make it work but could I ask you to post one more picture showing the acellerator pedal arm on the firewall? I am thinking that the arm on my truck is longer (which would open the throttle faster, with less pedal travel). Also I assume that the super long spring is the throttle return ?

Thanks again for sharing your images. Sort of motivates me now. ;)

-Kevin
 
Your welcome glad to be of some help, Yeah a picture or two sure helps when you where not the person that took something apart! :nod: Yes the long spring is for the throttle return though the length would not really mater as much as the pull tension. :unsure: Sure will try to post a picture showing the accelerator arm linkage in the next few days. (y)
 
Here you go, Kevin. (y) First picture is a firewall shot of the all stock 54 Customline 223 setup.
The second picture is linkage on my 56 F-350 as you can see it's not stock running gear, this is a combo of a modded stock pedal assembly and custom made to fit parts. Another way would be to use the stock bell crank you have at the carb and adapt the cable type pedal to link to it. Good luck :nod:

http://img440.imageshack.us/content_rou ... ia=mupload

http://img227.imageshack.us/content_rou ... ia=mupload
 
Oh heck, that arm is longer than I expected. I think I could rig something up based on those pictures :unsure: . Thanks for the assist Bubba!
 
Okay great glad to shed a little light on them :unsure: It's fairlly easy to mod or build them Good luck (y)
 
59F100":3to7s8vt said:
Just quick update ....Upon further review, I decided to replace the wiring harness in my truck. I picked one up from Classic Auto Parts in Oklahoma City (local to me) and it was money well spent. It is an exact duplicate of the original and terminated with all the correct plugs and sockets which make it very easy to replace. Should be finished with that today sometime...

-Cheers :beer:
Click to expand...

Good thing I dont get paid by the hour... :LOL: . Here is where I am at...

-I finished the wiring harness installation
-fixed the wiring for the tail lights (bad grounds and crossed wires)...discovered I dont have the original tail light buckets :( ...current ones are "cobbed" in there but work (and accept the stock tail lenses)
-installed a new horn rebuild kit in the steering column with a new horn button (they dont give those away!)
-installed new glove box
-removed/cleaned/lubed/re-installed all the dash cables (vents, heater, choke, etc...)
-installed radiator freshly repaired and painted (tanks only...fins only got a dusting to even the color)
-installed gas tank freshly repaired and painted along with a new sending unit
-installed new/correct ignition switch with new bezel
-installed headlight switch after obtaining missing threaded insert
Results...functional check is good except for right front blinker should be a simple fix. I was ecstatic...nothing like seeing everything installed in the dash (not dangling over the floor boards) and working...my vents are functional, my blower motor works, the lights/blinkers work, the ignition works (havent turned the motor over yet), and the horn works!!...awesome.

Need a lower radiator hose, and need to run the fuel line and and re-install the fuel pump and I will be ready to put gas in it. I'll run some compression checks prior to attempting to start it because that is where I left off back in the spring. Stay tuned!!
 
Almost forgot...re-installed the throttle linkage arm...and had to modify the little spring arm that attaches to the carb (too long)....not quite finished with that task yet.... :LOL:
 
59F100":2hbv3vyw said:
..Need a lower radiator hose, and need to run the fuel line and and re-install the fuel pump and I will be ready to put gas in it. I'll run some compression checks prior to attempting to start it because that is where I left off back in the spring. Stay tuned!!
Click to expand...

UPDATE :(
Got all the hoses and fuel lines installed, had some issues with a leaky t-stat housing and a leaky float bowl on the carb and ran some compression tests. They were all over the place...two cylinders at 110psi, the other four were something like 80, 60, 100, 70psi (I dont recall the order). Still more checking to to there to see if it is rings or valves (or cam). I want to see if my BOG is cured with all this new stuff!!

Well after figuring out that I had my fuel lines backwards on the fuel pump, I got her running and the bog is still there unfortunately and this truck is still un-driveable. Pretty dissappointing so now I am back to the drawing board. I know the engine needs a rebuild, I might just "do it" and worry about the bog later.... :banghead:
 
Three weak cylinders if you can get that cured that will probably cure that bog too.
 
Well, judging by the blue smoke I would say I need rings as a minimum.

Question, would the heat riser cause any restriction in the intake path or does that just re-route the air flow?

I ask because I dont believe mine is functional and I never gave it much thought before.
 
59F100":1gyqukp1 said:
Well, judging by the blue smoke I would say I need rings as a minimum.

Question, would the heat riser cause any restriction in the intake path or does that just re-route the air flow?

I ask because I dont believe mine is functional and I never gave it much thought before.
Click to expand...

Blue smoke, low compression on certain cylinders indicates you are probably correct about the rings. Burned valves usually bring the compression to zero. You can try a teaspoon of Marvel Mystery Oil or transmission fluid in the cylinder and test again. Often, if there is a ring problem, the oil will bring the compression back up for the duration of the test. The only way to tell for absolutely certain is a leakdown test.

The heat riser virtually closes off the exhaust until the vehicle warms up. This brings heat to the carburetor to prevent icing and improve driveability when cold. If it's stuck open, you probably will never notice. If it's stuck closed it will cause loss of power at higher RPM and the exhaust restriction will keep a lot of heat in the cylinder head and eventually burn the exhaust valves. The engine will react very similar to a newer model with a plugged catalytic converter.

Lou Manglass
 
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