t5 conversion

mainline331

mainline331

Active member
Hell
I haven't posted on in here in a while, but thought I would share the following:
Many people seem unsure if the flathead 8 t5 adapters would work on the flat 6 .......they do
I used a wilcap adapter, and a car bellhousing which then sets you up to use a ford style input T5. I chose a world class unit from a mustang. Next I used the tailhouse and topcover from a Chevy s10 truck to move the shifter up (this is covered ad in many other articles). The only modification I had to do to the trans was shorten the input shaft maybe a quarter inch- dont know if this is because of a difference between a 6 and 8 or just that the adapter was too thin?
Next had to find a clutch disc with the right diameter for the old pressure plate with the splines from the later trans. I found something on fleabay that worked, but dont know what it was from and dont have a part number- sorry. Maybe a mustang II? Besides modifying the trans tunnel, the only fabrication to the car was to make a bracket for the clutch shaft to pivot on, since the t5 does not have the cast on nerd for the pivot. I used a clevis that I welded onto a bracket that bolts onto the trans crossmember. Besides that, just have to do the usual crossmember to new mount and driveshaft magic.
The trans shifts great, just sort of wish that the overdrive was a little less (.68). Not a problem- the torque of the six pulls it, just a big jump.... might use lower rear gears (currently 3.7). Sure love driving it. On a recent trip from Long Beach to Palm Springs (100 miles), cruising along with traffic I got ........ready for this? 26.9 mpg ! Really- I couldnt believe it. Around town is less of course, but on the freeway the thing almost "idles" down the road !
 
Its a 226 in a 1950 ford tudor sedan. I am running a weber 32/36 carb on a stock ported intake/ block, a header, 260 degree cam, higher compression, lightened flywheel, PCV, and a modified distributor from a chrysler with mechanical advance. The whole thing works out to a nice combo, but think the best modifications were the transmission and the distributor in terms of mpg and drivability. I lieterally drive it daily. I live in Palm springs which is quite warm, and I modified a 1970s Ford assymetrical flex fan and it seems to run pretty cool. I am also building another motor now, this one a 254, that I am going to step on a little more (higher compression, more cam, three carbs, more cubes)....
 
Its good to hear that you got your 226 running and that there is a simple adapter to make the trans switch. There is a clutch disk for the stock 9.5 inch clutch with a 1and 1/16th" ten spline hole (which should be the size for your t5). It is part number C8AZ-7550-A. Probably it is for a 68 on up Ford six.

Another good distributor for your 6 could be an HEI from a brand "c" six cylinder 194,230, 292 engine. They are available new for as low as $69 built in China. They turn the right direction, and have both centrifugal and vacuum advance but need to be shortened as the stock length makes them stick out from the 226 like a sore thumb. The spline from the 226 distributor would need to be welded on the HEI shaft at the correct length after the aluminum housing was shortened. This would give you a 1 wire distributor (12 volt no resistor) with about twice the secondary voltage of the point style set up. You could also call it a brand "gmc" if the brand "c" name upsets you.

Please post the progress on your 254 build up. The walls of your 254 should be thick enough to allow for an eighth inch over bore. This would require custom built pistons. If you go this route, you could offset grind the large crankpins and use .030 or .040 under size bearings in Chrysler 265 flathead six con rods for a stroke increase of about .200 inch and order the custom pistons with a relocated pin hole to make up for the shorter rod and longer stroke. Chrysler rods are much stronger than even the 254 Ford rods. Dreaming on, the custom pistons could have maybe a pop up into the combustion chamber for higher compression. With the over bore and stroke the cubic inch count would be about 285 cu inches, and the compression ratio with the stock truckhead would be around 8 to 1 plus without the pop up.
 
using a dwight bond conversion plate i installed a t5 from a s-10 behind the 215 in my 52 f3. i used the the original pressure plate with an 11 inch chevy clutch plate. you bolt the small bellhousing which houses the throw out bearing to the plate which is adapted to the t5. talk about a difference. im using a 9 inch ford rearend with a 325 ratio. its geared a little high a 345 or 373 would be better. 235 75 15 inch tires.
 
fordtruck52":1h8e5rgn said:
using a dwight bond conversion plate i installed a t5 from a s-10 behind the 215 in my 52 f3. i used the the original pressure plate with an 11 inch chevy clutch plate. you bolt the small bellhousing which houses the throw out bearing to the plate which is adapted to the t5. talk about a difference. im using a 9 inch ford rearend with a 325 ratio. its geared a little high a 345 or 373 would be better. 235 75 15 inch tires.
Click to expand...

fordtruck52 - Are you talking about an OHV I6?
 
I'm looking at swapping in a T5 myself. FORDTRUCK52 what year S10 did your tranny come out of? It seems like you had the best outcome of anyone else I have read and I have read a ton," a little overwhelming actually". Do you know which or where you got the 11" Chevy pressure plate with a 1" 14- spline center? Can I get a picture of the bracket you made to use the hand break in its original location? Do I keep the 4.86 gears in the rear or should I go with a 4.11 set that www.chuckstrucksllc.com sells for the Timken rear diff? I also haven't seen anyone post the speedo cable working out as well as yours did. Please any help you could give me would be very much appreciated. I've also looked into the Dwight Bonds adapter. Thanks again!!!
 
Late 80's GM Asto/Safari vans used the 11" clutch disc with 1"x14 splines. You may have to clearance the center of your flywheel and the bolts to clear the center hub springs. I used this setup on my flat V8 to T-5 swap and it works great.
The mechanical speedo was last used on '88 S-10 trannys, after that they are all electric.
 
hey foreman, the transmission is from an 87 s10 (i think the overdrive is .72). it has a mechanical speedometer drive and the original cable fit perfectly. i have a 9" out back with 350 gears (gonna change to 411s). my tires are 235 15s. if you have the original 16" wheels that i would keep the 486 rear end or at least try it. i can cruise at 70 with no problems but with a hill or strong headwind its hard to make headway with the overdrive. the 215 needs to be between 2400 and 3000 rpm to be happy. 1800 rpm doesnt get it. if you need more info e mail me fordtruck52@yahoo
 
Thank you very much for the info. I have located a rebuilt transmission and will be purchasing soon. I'm sure I will run into something I will need some more guidance on. Thanks for the contact information.
 
you can use either a 10 or 11 " s10 clutch plate with the stock pressure plate ( i had mine rebuilt). then you dont have to change the pedals. you do have to reuse the bellhousing from the old transmission (4 speed). the plate from bond fits the flathead v8, flathead 6 and the 215 and i think model a. it is a wellmade piece and i had no trouble installing it. the handbrake is in its original position and the hardware i made to connect it to the rear brakes has worked great so far. the stock s10 shifter get pretty close to the original seat in 2nd,4th and reverse gears but doesnt quite touch. im 6'5" so i have the seat all the way back. i think the bond coversion plate cost me 80 bucks----about a year and a half ago
 
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