I have a collection of parts for two 226 engines..some 254 stuff... and .... After reconsideration, I am building a 226 + .060" (234 cu in), and I need a lot of these parts plus more to complete this engine and T5 conversion
(John Mummert's T5 adapter $199 + 13 S&H ("John Mummert" <fordperf@earthlink.net>)); I rec'd the kit on 3/7/2012
http://ford-y-block.com/t5in-cars-bird.htm
Mustang V8 NWC T5 case w/S10 shifter cover/tailhousing & mech speedo; arrived 2/24/12;
ebay purchase # 170783453262); NOTE, on final installation: the T5 input/pilot shaft was ~ 3/16" too long (hit the crankshaft thus interferring with allowing the T5 to fully-mate with the adapter plate). Sliced excess off w/rotating disc, and that appeared to correct the sole problem.
need to drill 2 bottom holes, ~ 0.55" or 9/16", in the bellhousing for two provided 9/16" bolts that fit throught a kit-provided stiffener metal plate from inside the bellhousing firstly, and then the 2 newly drilled holes from inside bellhousing, and then screw them into the threaded alum. adapter plate to secure the bottom of the plate.
I had to locate and order from Active Bolt and Screw, Memphis, TN, 2 flathead socket cap screws, 7/16"-20 (fine threads in this car bellhousing), to secure the top of the adapter plate to bellhousing.
51 Ford 6-car bellhousing;
CLUTCH DISC: 9 1/2" - 1 1/16" hub - 10T (P/N C8AZ-7550-A => ebay auction for a New FACTORY FORD REMANUFACTURED clutch disc for a 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 FULL SIZE Ford GALAXIE CUSTOM or other model with 240 cubic inch 6 cylinder engine and 3 speed manual transmission.));
The 1951 Ford car clutch release bearing fits/slides nicely onto the T5 retainer tube - EXCELLENT;
THROWOUT BEARING; ordering (http://www.rockauto.com) new (NATIONAL Part # 1625 Ball Bearing; Bore=1.6255", Outer Diameter=3.0625)
FLYWHEEL PILOT BEARING replacement for T5 w/input pilot hub OD of ~ 0.67":
Dorman bearing # 690018 ..... ID 0.672" ..... OD 1.576" ; for the McLeod aluminum flywheel it will have to be machined to fit.
for any one, like me before, who may not know, take the new replacement clutch release bearing and the retainer/used bearing to a NAPA machine-shop-type place and have them press off the used bearing and press the new bearing onto the bearing retainer sleeve. I got the bellhousing cleaned externally at home - inside also needs cleaning =>loads, BLACK YUCK! Called NAPA and he said he'd clean 1) the bellhousing, 2) flywheel, & 3) my gummed-up pressure plate too! At this point the T5 conversion is looking promising.
PRESSURE PLATE (9 1/2"): new, car-6 replacement; Ford brand and part number C1AZ-7563-A. This fits the following; Ford all 1949-1953, both V-8 and 6 cyl; Ford 1954 with 223 6 cyl ; Ford built after 5-31-61 and all 1962 with 223 6 cylinder engines and Mercury 1962 with 223 6 cylinder engine.... Perfection Brandpart number CA 8594, for 9 1/2" clutches. This fits the following; Ford passenger cars with V-8 from 1949-1953 and Ford passenger cars with 6 cylinder 1949-1959. ARP replacement bolts/washers (6) for pressure plate, p/n 150-2201; Summit Racing; ~ $ 15.50; TORQUE specs 25 #-ft
FLYWHEEL: The stock Ford flat head v8 flywheel can be bolted to the crankshaft of the Ford flat head six (6) and will work if the starter drive gear is changed to the 10-tooth V8 gear. The stock V8 flywheel physically bolts on the 6 crank shaft, clears everything and both are zero balanced. The stock weights are within 1 pound of each other at about 34 or 35 pounds, but the 6 has more of the weight concentrated around the outside of the flywheel, it is thicker in the ring gear area and thinner in the clutch area; TORQUE specs 65 #-ft
The ring gears are different inside diameters so do not interchange between flywheels:
The 6 ring gear has 114 teeth and the V8 has 112 teeth.
The 6 starter drive has 9 teeth and the V8 has 10 teeth and are interchangeable.
The starters are otherwise identical.
There is another post some place where the poster wrote that he used a v8 flywheel and the matching 10-tooth starter gear and it worked. If I recall, the aluminum flywheels weigh about 8 to 10 pounds. The measurement from the front of the starter mounting plate to the back of the ring gear where the starter gear engages is .100 more on the on the 8 than the 6 but the starter gear in the unengaged position still clears with about 1/4 inch clearance.
Therefore, the stock V8 starter with the 10-tooth gear will mount in the stock 6 cylinder location and will mesh perfectly with the 112-tooth V8 flywheel mounted to the 6 cyl crankshaft.
A stock size v8 aluminum flywheel with the v8 ring gear will fit the 6 and work with the v8 10 tooth starter gear.
After market gear reduction starters may work also but they engage the starter gear from the front of the ring gear, not the rear like the stock starter and should be checked for proper mesh, but should work. Don't forget to use the stock sheet metal plate between the flywheel bolts and the aluminum flywheel so that the bolts do not dig into the aluminum.
FLYWHEEL PLAN for lighter, AL flywheel:
1. Use Ford 6 starter, but change the drive gear to:
Item # B11350N Starter Drive With Spring - Complete Bendix - 10 Tooth - Ford V8 & 6 Cyl except 60 HP (from => Macsautoparts.com)
$34.50
2. Purchase from Speedway Motors the SOLID aluminum flywheel, Item #:
91015625; for 1932-1953 early & late Flathead V8 engines. Weighs 12 lbs.
$ 279.99
3. Send it to McLeod Industries; 1-714-630-2764 (Lee), McLeod, 1600 Sierra Madre Circle, Placentia, CA 92870; have machined to replace AL face w/steel insert; link to see what it'll look like
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flathead- ... layId=1833
labor cost ~ $175 ( $ 455 plus shpg better than $ 540 ); also, the pres plate did not mount so that machine work will be done too - send the pres plate also; $ 25 via Fed-Ex ground from 38138..
CRANKSHAFT: the best one-of-three was Fed-Ex'd 4/27/2012, for work; it will get about 4 power washes in phases, Magna-fluxed for possible cracks, check'd to see if the -.020/-.020 was ground properly about 3 yrs ago, check/correct for proper index, micro-polished, Crankshaft Ra check, dynamic balanced, etc. From there, it will be shipped straight to the engine builder, where the rotating assy will be dynamic-balanced. UPDATE: 5/12/12; The crankshaft was previously ground, but it was not properly cut; it will take a regrind from factory specs to -.040 mains/-.040 rods to get it index'd correctly (4.4" stroke); Kanter had the desired undersize main/rod bearings.
Here is update: Here is an update on your crankshaft:
=============================================
CHECK TO SEE IF THE RODS AND MAINS ARE INDEXED CORRECTLY
$50
MAGNETIC PARTICLE CRACK DETECTION TEST/INSPECTION
$75
INDEXED CRANKSHAFT AND GRIND RODS AND MAINS .040
REMOVE RUST FROM REAR MAIN SEAL
CHAMFERING ALL OIL PASSAGES
MICRO-POLISH ALL JOURNALS
$200
Your current balance is $325.
=========================
CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET GEAR 24-tooth: new, $ 67.95 + S&H, p/n 7HA-6306, from mac's
http://macsautoparts.com/campaign_searc ... r+&x=9&y=7
WRIST PIN BUSHINGS: purchased replacements off/from ebay; currently soaking in oil for a couple days, then in zip loc bags waiting for installation; 1) remove the old bushings, 2) press in the new bushings and 3) hone to respective wrist pin sizes, keeping in mind that all the wrist pins may NOT be the same size so number and measure each piston/pin/rod and keep separated/segregated. As soon as the crankshaft is completed then the full rotating assembly will be dynamically-balanced; next, every thing will be delivered for the state-of-the-art valve job, plus, the final engine assembly. Sealed Power Wrist pin bushing that fit Ford 226 and 254ci L6 engines from 1941-53. The Sealed Power NOS p/n is 6-21322 and there are 6 bushings in the set
VALVES state-of-the-art UPGRADE: regrind I-valves from 45° to a 30° angle, undercut & swirl-polish the valve heads, regrind the I-seats at 31°; keep the E-valves at a 45°, regrind the E-seats at a 46° & install 12 bronze guide liners, maybe. This should improve the performance of any engine a lot, especially a H-226 or M-254. This 1951 engine has from the factory hardened E-seats.
HEAD/MAIN STUDS - CHASE THREADS: I took a photo of the dirty tap, 1/2 - 13 after chasing one set of threads on a single main bolt threads; lots of rust etc. It was a very good idea, as each set of main bolt threads contained lots of debris and although I turned them relatively easy each offered some drag. I will shoot brake parts cleaner through after I finish to back-flush any debris that may have been left in there when I backed the tap out. This is also recommended on the head bolt threads whether you elect to use new, grade 8 bolts or studs; I am using ARP head and main studs, part #'s as follow:
HEAD STUDS (ARP)
APW1316N 7/16 ID, 13/16 OD, NON-CHAM WASHER
APN12-1 7/16-20 BLACK 12-PT NUT
AP3.750-1SB 7/16 X 3.75, SHORT-BROACHED STUD
MAIN STUDS (ARP)
ARW78N 1/2 ID, 7/8 OD, H&M WASHER
ARN12-1 1/2-20 12-PT NUT, .823 COLLAR
AR3.850-1SB 1/2 X 3.25, SHORT-BROACHED STUD
RODS 226 vs 254: I have 2 sets of 226 rods and one set of 254. The 254 rods, with removable bolts/nuts, are a little beefier vs the 226's; plus the 254 nuts are a little beffier vs the 226's. Could put the 254 nuts on the 226 rods if it looks like I can only use the 226 rods. If the 254 bolts/nuts are feasible for replacement w/ARP, then I'll contact the engine builder to see how he feels about installing the rods from the bottom as first step; then pistons and rings need to be installed on the rods. But, can the crank be installed and manage to install the rods on the crank - may be impossible?! A little EXTRA insurance on the lower end can't hurt considering the age of the materials. Using the 226 "F1 truck" rods and ordering ARP rod nuts, p/n 200-8604 for 3/8-24; ARP nut height 0.385" vs factory height of ~ 0.370 - 0.377.
UPGRADES/misc: 12v alternator/regulator conversion, added K&N air filter onto the oil-filler tube of the engine, ARP head and main studs, reline valve guides with oil-soaked bronze liners, 20/20 on the crank, original DISTRIBUTOR w/"HOT SPARK" electronic ignition 12v conversion (via ebay), true split original ex manifold, original carb & intake, new pistons (+0.060") plus copper head gasket from egge.com, aluminum cam gear, stock cam, head shaved 0.030", original 226-H rods and dynamically-balance rotating assembly, plus rebuilt oil and water pumps from egge.com; hopefully it runs good and does not leak!! PCV to be added; a friend, Randy, told me he has, quoting, "a PCV rigged up which helps a lot by limiting positive pressure in the crankcase. If you remove the draft tube from the valve cover, the hole is just right for a PCV valve cover grommet from a ‘70 Chevelle; use the Chevelle PCV valve/grommet. I used a new oil filler cap to make sure there was some incoming air filtration. Results are no blowby or oil fume smells..... i.e., Air in through the oil filler, thru the crankcase, thru the PCV, thru a hose to the vacuum port on the intake manifold. I have used this setup with a single 847 carb (original stock carb), two 847’s, and the two Holley square bowl carbs and have never had a problem." (I had planned to do something similar but with the above COMPLETE details I shall also do what is currently working; ordered PCV parts today (FRAM 181 valve, and PCV grommet Airtex 2P 1003), 10/1/2012, from rockautoparts.com)
Read some where today, a good idea to add hi-temp silicone on both sides of the copper head gasket where the water ports are located.
http://www.permatex.com/products/automo ... _Maker.htm
Initial plan is to put on an engine stand, get running and have a little fun with dual straight-UP 2" dia. pipes (verticle tubes to be welded to j-tubes off dual ex manifold, and rise about 3-4 ft above engine).
After all the bugs are worked out, will be looking for the right car to put this H/T5 into; maybe a cherry '49-50 Custom or Deluxe 4-door w/sun visor, "6-powered", of course. thumbup:
note: if someone can turbo-charge a 1.1L Opel engine, I just might turbo this 3.8L Ford to see what happens:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zGDoaHaQbE
M6ride
(John Mummert's T5 adapter $199 + 13 S&H ("John Mummert" <fordperf@earthlink.net>)); I rec'd the kit on 3/7/2012
http://ford-y-block.com/t5in-cars-bird.htm
Mustang V8 NWC T5 case w/S10 shifter cover/tailhousing & mech speedo; arrived 2/24/12;
ebay purchase # 170783453262); NOTE, on final installation: the T5 input/pilot shaft was ~ 3/16" too long (hit the crankshaft thus interferring with allowing the T5 to fully-mate with the adapter plate). Sliced excess off w/rotating disc, and that appeared to correct the sole problem.
need to drill 2 bottom holes, ~ 0.55" or 9/16", in the bellhousing for two provided 9/16" bolts that fit throught a kit-provided stiffener metal plate from inside the bellhousing firstly, and then the 2 newly drilled holes from inside bellhousing, and then screw them into the threaded alum. adapter plate to secure the bottom of the plate.
I had to locate and order from Active Bolt and Screw, Memphis, TN, 2 flathead socket cap screws, 7/16"-20 (fine threads in this car bellhousing), to secure the top of the adapter plate to bellhousing.
51 Ford 6-car bellhousing;
CLUTCH DISC: 9 1/2" - 1 1/16" hub - 10T (P/N C8AZ-7550-A => ebay auction for a New FACTORY FORD REMANUFACTURED clutch disc for a 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 FULL SIZE Ford GALAXIE CUSTOM or other model with 240 cubic inch 6 cylinder engine and 3 speed manual transmission.));
The 1951 Ford car clutch release bearing fits/slides nicely onto the T5 retainer tube - EXCELLENT;
THROWOUT BEARING; ordering (http://www.rockauto.com) new (NATIONAL Part # 1625 Ball Bearing; Bore=1.6255", Outer Diameter=3.0625)
FLYWHEEL PILOT BEARING replacement for T5 w/input pilot hub OD of ~ 0.67":
Dorman bearing # 690018 ..... ID 0.672" ..... OD 1.576" ; for the McLeod aluminum flywheel it will have to be machined to fit.
for any one, like me before, who may not know, take the new replacement clutch release bearing and the retainer/used bearing to a NAPA machine-shop-type place and have them press off the used bearing and press the new bearing onto the bearing retainer sleeve. I got the bellhousing cleaned externally at home - inside also needs cleaning =>loads, BLACK YUCK! Called NAPA and he said he'd clean 1) the bellhousing, 2) flywheel, & 3) my gummed-up pressure plate too! At this point the T5 conversion is looking promising.
PRESSURE PLATE (9 1/2"): new, car-6 replacement; Ford brand and part number C1AZ-7563-A. This fits the following; Ford all 1949-1953, both V-8 and 6 cyl; Ford 1954 with 223 6 cyl ; Ford built after 5-31-61 and all 1962 with 223 6 cylinder engines and Mercury 1962 with 223 6 cylinder engine.... Perfection Brandpart number CA 8594, for 9 1/2" clutches. This fits the following; Ford passenger cars with V-8 from 1949-1953 and Ford passenger cars with 6 cylinder 1949-1959. ARP replacement bolts/washers (6) for pressure plate, p/n 150-2201; Summit Racing; ~ $ 15.50; TORQUE specs 25 #-ft
FLYWHEEL: The stock Ford flat head v8 flywheel can be bolted to the crankshaft of the Ford flat head six (6) and will work if the starter drive gear is changed to the 10-tooth V8 gear. The stock V8 flywheel physically bolts on the 6 crank shaft, clears everything and both are zero balanced. The stock weights are within 1 pound of each other at about 34 or 35 pounds, but the 6 has more of the weight concentrated around the outside of the flywheel, it is thicker in the ring gear area and thinner in the clutch area; TORQUE specs 65 #-ft
The ring gears are different inside diameters so do not interchange between flywheels:
The 6 ring gear has 114 teeth and the V8 has 112 teeth.
The 6 starter drive has 9 teeth and the V8 has 10 teeth and are interchangeable.
The starters are otherwise identical.
There is another post some place where the poster wrote that he used a v8 flywheel and the matching 10-tooth starter gear and it worked. If I recall, the aluminum flywheels weigh about 8 to 10 pounds. The measurement from the front of the starter mounting plate to the back of the ring gear where the starter gear engages is .100 more on the on the 8 than the 6 but the starter gear in the unengaged position still clears with about 1/4 inch clearance.
Therefore, the stock V8 starter with the 10-tooth gear will mount in the stock 6 cylinder location and will mesh perfectly with the 112-tooth V8 flywheel mounted to the 6 cyl crankshaft.
A stock size v8 aluminum flywheel with the v8 ring gear will fit the 6 and work with the v8 10 tooth starter gear.
After market gear reduction starters may work also but they engage the starter gear from the front of the ring gear, not the rear like the stock starter and should be checked for proper mesh, but should work. Don't forget to use the stock sheet metal plate between the flywheel bolts and the aluminum flywheel so that the bolts do not dig into the aluminum.
FLYWHEEL PLAN for lighter, AL flywheel:
1. Use Ford 6 starter, but change the drive gear to:
Item # B11350N Starter Drive With Spring - Complete Bendix - 10 Tooth - Ford V8 & 6 Cyl except 60 HP (from => Macsautoparts.com)
$34.50
2. Purchase from Speedway Motors the SOLID aluminum flywheel, Item #:
91015625; for 1932-1953 early & late Flathead V8 engines. Weighs 12 lbs.
$ 279.99
3. Send it to McLeod Industries; 1-714-630-2764 (Lee), McLeod, 1600 Sierra Madre Circle, Placentia, CA 92870; have machined to replace AL face w/steel insert; link to see what it'll look like
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flathead- ... layId=1833
labor cost ~ $175 ( $ 455 plus shpg better than $ 540 ); also, the pres plate did not mount so that machine work will be done too - send the pres plate also; $ 25 via Fed-Ex ground from 38138..
CRANKSHAFT: the best one-of-three was Fed-Ex'd 4/27/2012, for work; it will get about 4 power washes in phases, Magna-fluxed for possible cracks, check'd to see if the -.020/-.020 was ground properly about 3 yrs ago, check/correct for proper index, micro-polished, Crankshaft Ra check, dynamic balanced, etc. From there, it will be shipped straight to the engine builder, where the rotating assy will be dynamic-balanced. UPDATE: 5/12/12; The crankshaft was previously ground, but it was not properly cut; it will take a regrind from factory specs to -.040 mains/-.040 rods to get it index'd correctly (4.4" stroke); Kanter had the desired undersize main/rod bearings.
Here is update: Here is an update on your crankshaft:
=============================================
CHECK TO SEE IF THE RODS AND MAINS ARE INDEXED CORRECTLY
$50
MAGNETIC PARTICLE CRACK DETECTION TEST/INSPECTION
$75
INDEXED CRANKSHAFT AND GRIND RODS AND MAINS .040
REMOVE RUST FROM REAR MAIN SEAL
CHAMFERING ALL OIL PASSAGES
MICRO-POLISH ALL JOURNALS
$200
Your current balance is $325.
=========================
CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET GEAR 24-tooth: new, $ 67.95 + S&H, p/n 7HA-6306, from mac's
http://macsautoparts.com/campaign_searc ... r+&x=9&y=7
WRIST PIN BUSHINGS: purchased replacements off/from ebay; currently soaking in oil for a couple days, then in zip loc bags waiting for installation; 1) remove the old bushings, 2) press in the new bushings and 3) hone to respective wrist pin sizes, keeping in mind that all the wrist pins may NOT be the same size so number and measure each piston/pin/rod and keep separated/segregated. As soon as the crankshaft is completed then the full rotating assembly will be dynamically-balanced; next, every thing will be delivered for the state-of-the-art valve job, plus, the final engine assembly. Sealed Power Wrist pin bushing that fit Ford 226 and 254ci L6 engines from 1941-53. The Sealed Power NOS p/n is 6-21322 and there are 6 bushings in the set
VALVES state-of-the-art UPGRADE: regrind I-valves from 45° to a 30° angle, undercut & swirl-polish the valve heads, regrind the I-seats at 31°; keep the E-valves at a 45°, regrind the E-seats at a 46° & install 12 bronze guide liners, maybe. This should improve the performance of any engine a lot, especially a H-226 or M-254. This 1951 engine has from the factory hardened E-seats.
HEAD/MAIN STUDS - CHASE THREADS: I took a photo of the dirty tap, 1/2 - 13 after chasing one set of threads on a single main bolt threads; lots of rust etc. It was a very good idea, as each set of main bolt threads contained lots of debris and although I turned them relatively easy each offered some drag. I will shoot brake parts cleaner through after I finish to back-flush any debris that may have been left in there when I backed the tap out. This is also recommended on the head bolt threads whether you elect to use new, grade 8 bolts or studs; I am using ARP head and main studs, part #'s as follow:
HEAD STUDS (ARP)
APW1316N 7/16 ID, 13/16 OD, NON-CHAM WASHER
APN12-1 7/16-20 BLACK 12-PT NUT
AP3.750-1SB 7/16 X 3.75, SHORT-BROACHED STUD
MAIN STUDS (ARP)
ARW78N 1/2 ID, 7/8 OD, H&M WASHER
ARN12-1 1/2-20 12-PT NUT, .823 COLLAR
AR3.850-1SB 1/2 X 3.25, SHORT-BROACHED STUD
RODS 226 vs 254: I have 2 sets of 226 rods and one set of 254. The 254 rods, with removable bolts/nuts, are a little beefier vs the 226's; plus the 254 nuts are a little beffier vs the 226's. Could put the 254 nuts on the 226 rods if it looks like I can only use the 226 rods. If the 254 bolts/nuts are feasible for replacement w/ARP, then I'll contact the engine builder to see how he feels about installing the rods from the bottom as first step; then pistons and rings need to be installed on the rods. But, can the crank be installed and manage to install the rods on the crank - may be impossible?! A little EXTRA insurance on the lower end can't hurt considering the age of the materials. Using the 226 "F1 truck" rods and ordering ARP rod nuts, p/n 200-8604 for 3/8-24; ARP nut height 0.385" vs factory height of ~ 0.370 - 0.377.
UPGRADES/misc: 12v alternator/regulator conversion, added K&N air filter onto the oil-filler tube of the engine, ARP head and main studs, reline valve guides with oil-soaked bronze liners, 20/20 on the crank, original DISTRIBUTOR w/"HOT SPARK" electronic ignition 12v conversion (via ebay), true split original ex manifold, original carb & intake, new pistons (+0.060") plus copper head gasket from egge.com, aluminum cam gear, stock cam, head shaved 0.030", original 226-H rods and dynamically-balance rotating assembly, plus rebuilt oil and water pumps from egge.com; hopefully it runs good and does not leak!! PCV to be added; a friend, Randy, told me he has, quoting, "a PCV rigged up which helps a lot by limiting positive pressure in the crankcase. If you remove the draft tube from the valve cover, the hole is just right for a PCV valve cover grommet from a ‘70 Chevelle; use the Chevelle PCV valve/grommet. I used a new oil filler cap to make sure there was some incoming air filtration. Results are no blowby or oil fume smells..... i.e., Air in through the oil filler, thru the crankcase, thru the PCV, thru a hose to the vacuum port on the intake manifold. I have used this setup with a single 847 carb (original stock carb), two 847’s, and the two Holley square bowl carbs and have never had a problem." (I had planned to do something similar but with the above COMPLETE details I shall also do what is currently working; ordered PCV parts today (FRAM 181 valve, and PCV grommet Airtex 2P 1003), 10/1/2012, from rockautoparts.com)
Read some where today, a good idea to add hi-temp silicone on both sides of the copper head gasket where the water ports are located.
http://www.permatex.com/products/automo ... _Maker.htm
Initial plan is to put on an engine stand, get running and have a little fun with dual straight-UP 2" dia. pipes (verticle tubes to be welded to j-tubes off dual ex manifold, and rise about 3-4 ft above engine).
After all the bugs are worked out, will be looking for the right car to put this H/T5 into; maybe a cherry '49-50 Custom or Deluxe 4-door w/sun visor, "6-powered", of course. thumbup:
note: if someone can turbo-charge a 1.1L Opel engine, I just might turbo this 3.8L Ford to see what happens:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zGDoaHaQbE
M6ride
