Pics of my new 63 f100, and what carb is this?

What do you all think? Love to hear your thoughts. I have big plans. I have to start with the carb cause it leaking pretty bad. Can only afford a rebuild kit at moment. Unless theres a cheaper options ( or not so expensive ). I also MUST get the gearing down. I found out from the tag on the diff that I have 3.89. Even with the taller gears she doesn't like 60mph at all. I want her to be a daily driver so i need to get down around 3.4. Can i just swap ring and pinion only? OR can I swap my entire rearend from a pars truck? what size rear end and how do i measure or find out? What other will fit? So many questions. THANKS!!!

the ring and pinion, if you have the know-how, do it yourself, if not, giveit to a shop, that's something you won't want to make a mistake on. 3.89 gears are low, I like the idea of some taller gears, maybe 3.55 or 3.25 gears, bigger tires will help raise the speed too.

remember to test the speedo, take it to a shop for a speedo test, they CAN be off, and you could be going faster/slower than it says. EVEN if the odometer is acurate.

From your other post with the carb picture, I said the carb is an Autolite 1100. I am not super familiar with the 223's, but it looks like it is missing the Spark Control Valve circtuits. Do you have any better pictures of the carb and where your distributor vacuum is routed?

A kit for that carb should be around $20..

Your VIN number: F10JR331231 decodes as
F10 = F100 2 wheel drive
R code = Assembly Plant San Jose, Ca.
Being built in September 1962 so yours is an early production 1963. By the DSO code it was built for one of the Los Angles area dealers. It would also be the number 6,230 truck (includes all sizes of F series units) that were built at the San Jose Plant for 1963 Ford Model year
My best guess is that it rolled off the line on the afternoon of Sept. 6, 1962

J code engine = 223 1V 114HP @ 3600 RPM
Wheel Base 114 = a Short bed pickup 61/2 ‘ box
Body code 81A = Standard Cab

Color Y
Trans A = 3 Speed Light Duty
Rear Axle 12 = 3.89
DSO District Sales Office = Los Angles Area

On the rear axle it should be an easy swap being a 9 inch axle Ring and pinions are available so you could for sure change the ratio, but if you don't have the tools and experience the fast and easy way is to swap out the diff complete or the whole rear axle (more work) but is doable. It all depends on what your plans for your truck are and also depending on what gear and tire height you want to use. If your are near the L.A. area I might be able to trade you a different third member unit for it have number of spare 9’s. Good luck with your pick up

HEY BUBBA, I am very near Los Angeles. Right down the 101 in SFV. I would be amazed if you had another rearend I could swap with higher gearing. a 3.48 is what I am looking for. or something near that. Where are you located and when would be a good time. Sometime this weekend or one night this evening would be amazing. I am also looking for someone to help me put on the newer alternator that I got with the truck. The original generator finally went on me as the pre owner said it would. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I love learning about these old trucks and plan on keeping / driving here forever haha. Thanks

A question: I'll be running a T98 trans with 3.5 gears to start off with. With this 'little enging that could', is 3.25 to tall for this motor? I'll prolly be running tires in the 28.5 (235 75 15) range

I was thinking about doing 3.25 too and I have 30" tires. Some have said they will work and some have said no. I guess we will just have to see. Let me know if you run those. I have about 2 weeks and I will be putting mine in.

Ianmattf100":jmh55vdp said:

I was thinking about doing 3.25 too and I have 30" tires. Some have said they will work and some have said no. I guess we will just have to see. Let me know if you run those. I have about 2 weeks and I will be putting mine in.

Click to expand...

I'm about 6 months away from being done

Ianmattf100, think most of the differentials have left are 3:00, this maybe too high a gear with a 3 speed it all depends on how you will use your truck. Like if you use the pickup just for transportation as a freeway flyer, or hauling heavy loads, if towing a trailer etc. The 58 223 motor was rated at 212 Ft. Lb.'s of torque @ 2400 RPM so there is no real benefit over revving the engine above that RPM the best MPG is also cruising at much lower RPM's too. As an example final drive ratio (rear gear plus tire Dia.) on your F100 223 & 3 speed 3.89 rear gear and (30.00 dia) tires engine turns 2616 RPM at 60 MPH. That's real close to the combo I ran in my 56 F100 years ago tire was (29.60) worked good for everything except 60+ freeway use. A 3:25 would drop it down to 2185 RPM at 60 MPH. A 3:00 would drop you down to 2017 RPM at 60 MPH. One other thing you don't want to drive those old trucks too fast with out the brakes in top shape they didn't stop all that well from higher speeds compared to new cars. Good news is there are much better brakes from the mid 70's F150's that can be adapted as well as aftermarket kits. I am down south from your area more in between the 10 & 210 next to the 605 the Alternator conversion is fairly easy to do

A question: I'll be running a T98 trans with 3.5 gears to start off with. With this 'little enging that could', is 3.25 to tall for this motor? I'll prolly be running tires in the 28.5 (235 75 15) range

Click to expand...

vntgtrk, this again all depends on how you plan to use your truck but the good thing is since you are using the 4 speed you could pull a taller rear gear much easier. IE example of final drive ratio (rear gear plus tire Dia.) for your F100 223 & 4 speed 3.50 rear gear and (28.50 dia) tires engine turns 2477 RPM at 60 MPH. A 3:25 would drop it down to 2300 RPM at 60 MPH. A 3:00 would drop you down to 2123 RPM at 60 MPH. A 2:87 would drop it down to 2031 RPM at 60 MPH. A little taller tire would lower your RPM's a bit too.