Driveshaft for rearend swap out

Daves55Courier

Daves55Courier

Well-known member
I swapped my original rearend for a '57 rearend into a '55 Ford with 223/FordoMatic. The original driveshaft is a little over 2 inches too short. That makes since the pumpkin in the '57 doesn't stick out as far as the old pumpkin.

Anybody else do a swap like this, what driveshaft did you swap the original one for?
 
On my '52 with the 3 speed, I was able to find a longer slip yoke. I have since seen where a guy found a longer pinion yoke for the 9 inch rear......this would work better I think. I will try to find a part #.
Last resort is to have a new longer driveshaft made.
 
tinman52":3mbzmu1q said:
Last resort is to have a new longer driveshaft made.
Click to expand...
I had one shortened a while back, cost me maybe $40, shouldn't be too much more to get one lengthened. They should be able to use the yokes from the existing driveshaft and make a new driveshaft with some tubing pretty simply.

Problem for me was finding a shop that did it as there were no performance shops setup for it in Tallahassee and I learned the hard way not to trust the machine shops.
I had luck when I talked to a friend who worked for a heavy equipment shop, he recommended a shop that built driveshafts for dump trucks and other big vehicles.
 
tinman52":1ty95499 said:
I have since seen where a guy found a longer pinion yoke for the 9 inch rear......this would work better I think. I will try to find a part #.
Click to expand...

A pinion yoke that is 2-3/8 inches longer than the original? NEVER seen an animal like that. But if you can supply a part no I will check it out.
 
Asa":2fly1a1b said:
I had one shortened a while back, cost me maybe $40, shouldn't be too much more to get one lengthened.
Click to expand...

I would be VERY hesitant to try to get one lengthened. If the new piece of pipe is not perfectly butted against the old piece, the driveshaft would be "out-of-round" and would be greatly un-balanced. Any modifications to an existing driveshaft would require careful re-balancing. Counterweights would need to be carefully added and re-checked for balance.
I was actually hoping to run across someone who had picked up an old driveshaft from a junkyard that would be a perfect fit for the '55/56 to 57 rearend swap. Then all I would need to know is what year, make and model it came out of.
 
I already have a longer front yoke. It does not help anything. The shaft is longer, but the splines inside the shaft don't run the full length of the shaft. The splines begin at about the same spot they do on the original yoke. But if the splines DID run the entire length of the pipe, it would help.
 
Daves55Courier":2mf2yql0 said:
Asa":2mf2yql0 said:
I had one shortened a while back, cost me maybe $40, shouldn't be too much more to get one lengthened.
Click to expand...

I would be VERY hesitant to try to get one lengthened. If the new piece of pipe is not perfectly butted against the old piece, the driveshaft would be "out-of-round" and would be greatly un-balanced. Any modifications to an existing driveshaft would require careful re-balancing. Counterweights would need to be carefully added and re-checked for balance.
I was actually hoping to run across someone who had picked up an old driveshaft from a junkyard that would be a perfect fit for the '55/56 to 57 rearend swap. Then all I would need to know is what year, make and model it came out of.
Click to expand...

Lots of driveshafts are lengthened if its a straight tube ie the same dia. Front to rear it is quite simple. the welds are cut off and yokes are removed then a new tube the right length is installed with The yokes aligned to each other they are then re welded last its balanced. If your talking about butt welding two tubes together anywere along the tube but the ends your right it would be very hard to butt weld and have it be straight.
 
Daves55Courier":fh0wnm89 said:
I already have a longer front yoke. It does not help anything. The shaft is longer, but the splines inside the shaft don't run the full length of the shaft. The splines begin at about the same spot they do on the original yoke. But if the splines DID run the entire length of the pipe, it would help.
Click to expand...

That would still not work correctly the yoke has to be installed so its the right distance from trans tail housing (with the yoke bottomed out the rear u joint should clear the rear yoke or up to 1/4 inch of clearance) if not you will get vibration from it wobbling. Or If you have the measurement from trans tail to the rear yoke, with both of these methods the car has to be setting on its suspension (loaded) then with this measurement would be able to help you figure out the driveshaft length thats needed so you can hunt for it at your local JY. Good luck
 
Daves55Courier":zq482xpn said:
Asa":zq482xpn said:
I had one shortened a while back, cost me maybe $40, shouldn't be too much more to get one lengthened.
Click to expand...

I would be VERY hesitant to try to get one lengthened. If the new piece of pipe is not perfectly butted against the old piece, the driveshaft would be "out-of-round" and would be greatly un-balanced. Any modifications to an existing driveshaft would require careful re-balancing. Counterweights would need to be carefully added and re-checked for balance.
I was actually hoping to run across someone who had picked up an old driveshaft from a junkyard that would be a perfect fit for the '55/56 to 57 rearend swap. Then all I would need to know is what year, make and model it came out of.
Click to expand...
Any decent shop that works on driveshafts won't have any issue doing this, they will have a balancing machine to ensure that there were no severe out of balance issues when you get it back.

Some backyard grease monkey that uses a come-along and tree limb for an engine hoist isn't going to do too well, but that's not what I suggested using.
 
Having a new longer tube put in your drive shaft is probably the best option. I had one shortened and balanced here locally.....cost me about $150.
 
tinman52":qn7lsjvu said:
Having a new longer tube put in your drive shaft is probably the best option. I had one shortened and balanced here locally.....cost me about $150.
Click to expand...
this is the correct answer. We have a place in Spokane, Wa called Watts wheel and driveline. Top notch work. It may cost you, but to me that's well worth it to get it right
 
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