Holley 1 barrel

I advanced the timing a little, my damper has only 1 mark on it, so I measured the circumference and figured out degrees to fractions. Haven't gotten around to grooving it out yet or putting a light on it. Moved the pump link to the richer hole. now it idles off choke and has a smooth transition to higher rpms. I just have to adjust the dash pot then I'm good to go. Finally. I bought a universal overflow tank from JC Whitney, but their instructions are a little fuzzy. The overflow bung under the rad cap goes to the nipple on the bottom of the tank, but the nipple on the overflow cap goes where? How does the coolant get back into the rad? Thanks Joe

fiddyfofoad":3tf6eyfv said:

there is a vacumm port in the base where it contacts the heat sink.

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I was told (but not verified) that this hole is only used if the transmission is a Ford-o-matic. If so, there should be a ball and retainer spring inside the mating hole in the bottom of the carb. If you have manual xmission, don't worry about that hole.

fiddyfofoad":3f5ihx1q said:

The overflow bung under the rad cap goes to the nipple on the bottom of the tank, but the nipple on the overflow cap goes where? How does the coolant get back into the rad? Thanks Joe

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Yes, I believe the bottom connection goes to the radiator overflow and the top hose on the overflow bottle should just run down to below the engine for drip out. If the overflow is filled at the proper level and engine does not overheat, that drip out line will always remain dry. The radiator sucks antifreeze back into the radiator after the engine is off and cools off.

fiddyfofoad":1l73k36g said:

Moved the pump link to the richer hole.

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Not sure if that was a good idea. The pump link should normally go in the hole that is closest to the center nearest the damper. That position is intended for year-round operation normally (unless you live in Alaska maybe). The outer hole is only for use with extreme cold weather.

As I wrote in my last post my car idles and throttles up nicely, I made the dashpot adjustment as req'd, now when I put the car in reverse or drive it dies immediately. I reversed the dashpot adjustment to where it was, but it had no effect, did the same thing. What do you think might be the problem? Joe

Upon closer inspection, it seems the dist retarded itself, I guess I didn't tighten the bolts enough and the tension flex from the vacumm line tubing returned it to the original position. Re-advanced it and tightened the dist bolts tighter and now its ok. This car is killing me. Joe

fiddyfofoad":3tgfkb46 said:

Upon closer inspection, it seems the dist retarded itself, I guess I didn't tighten the bolts enough and the tension flex from the vacumm line tubing returned it to the original position. Re-advanced it and tightened the dist bolts tighter and now its ok. This car is killing me. Joe

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Ford originally used one continuous length of tubing from the carb to the vac advance. I cut off my tubing near the vac advance and cut a little off the tubing enough to leave a gap to put in a rubber vacuum hose so it is more flexible for adjustment.

I had the same thought as I was resetting it. Joe

bubba22349 said:

Yes most carb kits are made to cover lots of models and even different brands of cars and trucks, dose your old gasket happen to have the hole in it? If it dose then you maybe should have one, you can punch a hole easy if the kit dose not have the right gasket. Without some pictures it hard to tell, though Yes you for sure need that carb passage to supply Venturi vacuum to the distributor. But the base gasket may not need to have a hole in it unless there is a hole under it to connect to. Just as long as the carbs vacuum port is still able to be connected to the inside of the intake. Good luck

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Bubba. I have a Ford 1962 F100 Unibody with a 223 inline six and if it sets for more than a week it won’t start without pouring gas in the carburetor. Recently it is stalling on me even after running? I have a Pertronix upgrade and that’s it. I changed the fuel filter to a clear and see fuel in it but not getting to the carb?

Hi Ztagator, and welcome to the Ford Six forum! You should start by doing a couple of tests.
1. First do a fuel pump volume test to see how well the pump is working.
2. Next do a fuel pump pressure test.
3. The hard starting after it has been setting for a week isn't unusual with today’s fuels that have some Ethinal in it.
4. If this is the case you could fix this by putting a small click clack type electric fuel pump to use to prime the Carb before trying to start it.
5. Another less comman reason can be that the Carb has some porosity in the casting that can cause the fuel to leak out into the intake manifold.
6. With it now stalling even after you have had it running this sounds like it's time to do a good cleaning and install a fresh rebuild kit in the carb. Check the condition of the throttle shaft for looseness.
7. On that clear fuel filter what type is it? Most of the clear fuel filters are not going to show that they are full to the top.
8. One other thing that you might check is the fuel pick up line sock's condistion on the fuel level gauge unit in the fuel tank.
9. Is the fuel tank and fuel clean inside?
Best of luck

Thanks for your input. How do I know which carburetor I have and where do you order your carb kits from? Thanks

Ztagator said:

Thanks for your input. How do I know which carburetor I have and where do you order your carb kits from? Thanks

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Is the tag still on it? If so, that's your identifier. If not, carburetor kits for the 1904 in the picture is pretty standardized. The last parts I got were from Mike's Carburetor Parts https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Holley-1904-1-Barrel-Universal-Exc-Industrial-K7033_p_5923.html
No connection, just a satisfied customer.

Rock Auto also has Standard Motor Products kit 252C: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...1335406,fuel+&+air,carburetor+repair+kit,5964
I've had good luck with Standard over the years.

Be careful of the float bowl, you can warp it (or even the carburetor) easily if you overtighten.

Lou Manglass