Narrowing down the build parameters on my 223.

This forum has been a big help and there is so much I've learned in a short time that I'm almost suffering from "analysis paralysis". Maybe someone has been down the road I am heading and can whittle down my options a little while figuring what modifications/upgrades to make to the 223 in my Custom 300.

What I'm trying to accomplish:
1 - The car will be used to pull a small travel trailer. 2600# maximum, worst case. More than likely it will be more around the 2400# mark. The Lo-Liner has a lower profile and does not catch as much wind as would typically found in similar travel trailers.

2 - Before traveling next summer, a AC unit of some kind will be installed. Have not settled on a make yet, but will take any suggestions that can be offered from folks who've gone this route.

Here's what I've done or plan to do:
1 - Done - Radiator has been rebuilt with a core containing 25% more coolant passages. This was done to take into account the trailer and AC loads.
2 - In Process - Replace engine driven fan with an electric. Don't need that added load at highway speeds.
3 - In Process - Electric Water Pump. Will deliver a constant flow of coolant regardless of engine speed and reduce the load from the water pump. Low current draw (6-8 amps) will have less added effect on the generator than the water pump load.

I'd like a bit more HP but not in the upper RPMs. Ideally, it would be in the 2000-3500 RPM range where the car will be driven on the highways, byways, and hills. I've seen mention of a number of options that may be of help in this area so thought I'd toss out some ideas to see what has been found to work best.

Improved breathing for both intake and exhaust:
(A) Blueprinting the head for better flow but not TOO much flow to negatively impact lower speed efficiency.
(B) Larger Valves with 4 angle cut.
(C) An RV grind on the cam.
(D) Without needing more power in the upper RPM range, it sounds like the Holley 1904 and stock manifold should do the trick without mods.
(E) The stock exhaust manifold with a good 3-chamber muffler (2.5" pipes) should also do the trick.

What do "the experts" think? Am I on the right trail or barking up the wrong tree? (I love speaking in metaphor.)

Your little 223 makes 145 hp @ 4200 rpm and 212 lbs of torque @ 2400, not bad. The stock cylinder head will support over 200 hp. Do a 3 angle valve job 30-45-60 on intake and Exhaust. For all out air flow do a 30-37-45-60 intake. Never do a 75 cut to the intake bowl on these heads. I do a 38-45-blended 60 on the exhaust. You can install a 1.84 intake and 1.600 exhaust but I don't think you need it. Any intake valve larger then 1.88 will lose air flow, even with worked out combustion chambers.
Clifford performance claims his headers and intake will increase torgue and hp 70%. That is impressive. If you run a performance manifold try to keep the motor level. At low rpm the fuel tends to run all over the place and foul plugs. I modified the truck headers to fit and it was a lot of work (but worth it .)
I don't see the electric water pump keeping up and hp savings would be minimal. All 223's need a groove cut on #3 cam journal to supply adequate lubrication to the valve assembly. With out this modification valve springs over heat and the valve train will wear early.
I like the duraspark conversion that others have talked about. The engine will start and idle better when cold. There should be a cam grinder in your are that could grind you a good rv cam.

GREAT INFO!! Thanks so much! While I have you, I'm going to pick your brain just a little more for some detail and clarification.

1 - Blueprint the head and cut the standard valves. Intake 30-45-60; Exhaust 38-45-blended 60.

2 - At the speeds I will be running (<4200RPM) will the Holley 1904 still be adequate or should I go larger?

3 - I searched your posts but did not see any write-ups on modifying the truck exhaust headers. Can I assume you used that because the discharge is more centered than the auto? What mods did you have to make as it appears the discharge is on top of the auto's suspension. Is build info available?

4 - To improve lubrication to the valve assembly, is there no groove on the cam journal or does it need to be cut deeper? Need to describe to my machinist, once he is located.

I'm not trying to shortcut anything, rather maximize what is already there and available to fit the purpose so I can spend where needed elsewhere. Now later, who knows?

Tom
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I don't think your 1904 is going to make the kind of power your are after. I like carburetors with progressive secondaries for the street, 2 or 4 barrel design. If you mount one on a Clifford manifold, mount the carb with the primary venturis away from the engine. Clifford may have something else to say about this but I find it creates better fuel distribution.
The headers were done 20 years ago, but I will tell you what I remember. I cut the truck headers about 3 inches below where the primaries merge. I ordered some 6 inch radius 90 degree X 2 1/2 elbows and attached to the headers to miss the suspension. You may need tighter elbows. Then with a collection of 45 and 30 degree by 2 1/2 elbows I worked the pipes down to under the fire wall.
There is no groove on the cam journal but the 262 motors have a groove on the cam bearings. This groove is still not enough. The cam groove is cut on a lathe .125-.1875 wide and .40 deep. The oil will run up both sides of the cam so the groove does nut need to be very deep.
The 223 timing chain can stretch rather quickly, and you can soon find that you running 4-6 degrees retarded on the valve timing. Something to think about when installing a new cam.

I will add that info to my list of things to check. Thanks again!!
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All right, I've done quite a bit of reading and research and with the help of Ford 6-4u, here's what I have.

1 - Rebuild head. Valve job (30-45-60). Stock rocker arms.
2 - Regrind cam for low and mid-range power. Groove cut on #3 journal for better lubrication. New timing gear and chain.
3 - I have an Offenhauser 3x1 intake manifold. Probably not the smartest choice but period correct AND I like the way they look!
4 - Exhaust header or split manifold.
5 - Modify a 240/300 mechanical advance distributor for use on the 223.
6 - Rear springs have been re-arched and all bushings replaced. Need to do the same with Moog parts in the front.

This is what I think will give me the best overall performance for towing and little "rumble" when I get into the throttle a little bit. A few questions.

1 - Should I go with stronger valve springs?
2 - Referencing the cam and valves, what should i set as an RPM limit?
3 - For the Offenhauser intake, should I use 2 carbs (block off middle) or go with 3 smaller CFM carbs?
4 - Has anyone been successful in making the Clifford exhaust manifold work with Offenhauser intake (block off bottom)? Should I build my own tube headers or use truck exhaust and modify per Ford 6-4u?
5 - If I opt to split stock or use truck exhaust manifold, anyone known for being successful in welding on these? Sounds pretty touchy.

Thanks!!

TD
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I am glad to see you are going ahead with your 223 project. Here is my WAG on your projects.

1 The valves weigh about 110 grams and needs about 100 lbs of spring seat pressure to run a 255-270 degree duration cam@5500 rpm. The stock spring seat pressure is 75 lbs. Your cam grinder will put you on the right path.
2 5000 rpm sounds like a good safe limit for your street build. If you get in to the 220 degree @ .050 range you will get a lope at idle.
3 I like the offy, it has excellent fuel distribution. Run one carb until it is dialed in perfect and then switch to two. You do not need three. Three carbs would be for a wild street motor, even if they came in progressively.
4 If you are going to shove all that air and fuel in then you are going to need to get it out. Six exhaust ports are one of the strong points of the 223 Ford. Fenton split exhaust, if you could find one would be nice. Headers even better. A good exhaust really wakes the little 223 up.
5 If some one solved the 223 exhaust problem they could sell a lot of them.

I hope this helps and maybe others can share their ideas and experiences
6-4u

GREAT INFO! Thanks for the support!!

I'll start posting up pics when there is something to see.
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Ford 6-4u":sr4t0pqu said:

I am glad to see you are going ahead with your 223 project. Here is my WAG on your projects.

1 The valves weigh about 110 grams and needs about 100 lbs of spring seat pressure to run a 255-270 degree duration cam@5500 rpm. The stock spring seat pressure is 75 lbs. Your cam grinder will put you on the right path.
2 5000 rpm sounds like a good safe limit for your street build. If you get in to the 220 degree @ .050 range you will get a lope at idle.
3 I like the offy, it has excellent fuel distribution. Run one carb until it is dialed in perfect and then switch to two. You do not need three. Three carbs would be for a wild street motor, even if they came in progressively.
4 If you are going to shove all that air and fuel in then you are going to need to get it out. Six exhaust ports are one of the strong points of the 223 Ford. Fenton split exhaust, if you could find one would be nice. Headers even better. A good exhaust really wakes the little 223 up.
5 If some one solved the 223 exhaust problem they could sell a lot of them.

I hope this helps and maybe others can share their ideas and experiences
6-4u

Click to expand...

After many chats and even a few phone calls, the project continues. Not much progress beyond accumulating some hard-to-get parts.

Been looking for a 262 engine without much success but DID find a 262 crankshaft! Cleaning out the cylinders, and going .020 over, then modifying the crank will net about 252ci.

Add also the glass bowl 1904 and the intake and engine are almost ready to happen.

Now, if I can resolve what's going to happen with the exhaust. More on that later.

TD
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1 - The glass bowl card is rebuilt and installed.
2 - The exhaust has been replaced. A little louder than I like but will wait to finish interior to see if droning goes away.
3 - Found the vacuum advance had a major leak so replaced it. Plugged directly into manifold vacuum then adjusted timing and idle. Runs WAAAY better!!
4 - Installed 2-spped electric wipers.

Now I recall that nothing happens as quickly as I think it will.
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