swpaguy said:Hello folks. New to this site hoping on answers and tips. I have a Ford 8n tractor that has a 226 industrial motor in it. I'm not sure what the difference between industrial and regular is. It's 6v neg ground. "
That should be 6 volt positive ground. If you are new to generators on auto engines,you need to buy a Motors Manual to cover 1948 to 1951 Ford cars or trucks.
One of the forgotten gems of information you will learn about is polarizing generators/voltage regulators.
If you hook up a system set up for positive ground with a negative ground,it will start and run normally,but the amp gauge will show a discharge,and all the other electrical gauges will read backwards. If this happens with you,you need to swap the battery cables to positive ground. You may or may not have to repolarize the generator/regulator. I can't remember now.
flathead 226 industrial
- Thread starter swpaguy
- Start date
Bender":2b7iwj0y said:
Huh, didn't realize I said negative ground. It is positive ground.
I did finally get the carb done. It was nasty inside. Hopefully I got it clean enough. I'm confused as to why it was totally dry when I took it off. The power jet gave me a real hard time and I chipped it getting it out. I fouled the Ridge smooth hopefully it will be ok. I'm going to clean the tank and fuel lines before I do anything else.
Struggling with the carb. I've had it apart 3 times now cleaning and spraying everything. Each time I get the same result. It's leaking from between the throttle body and the carb. I've read that sometimes that's common and the gasket will swell. It leaks when cranking and I haven't got it to start yet. Confused.
sounds like it's flooding out on you and it won't start because the plugs are getting wet (fouled) with fuel. Did you get the float level height and drop set correctly? Is the float still in good condistion? IE not cracked where its getting heavy with fuel? The floats are one of the most common causes of flooding on these old carb's. If your still using the fuel pump you need to check your fuel pressure at the carb it could be just too high a pressure pushing against the float. You could use a fuel pressure regulator to reduce that if you don't have one now. Also check if the two mating surfaces of throdle body and carb body are flat. Good Luck 
I checked the float, no bubbles. I adjusted it to 1 11/32 (that's in the middle of the range) from gasket to bottom of float. I didn't check or know what to check for on the drop. Dunno about the fuel pressure yet. It didn't seem to leak bad today(4th time taking it off). I ordered the hardware kit and replaced the getting worn out screws, sprayed it down again and reinstalled. Checked the mating surfaces with a straight edge. ..seems good. I always have a hard time starting it for the first time each year, so I'm not too worried yet. Thanks.bubba22349":3993b7ig said:
Ok but is that with the bowl cover upside down for the measurement of float level height? Better for it to be exact height or just slightly lower then being higher then spec. IE higher as in the top of float is closer to the top of bowl cover. The float drop is with the cover as its installed on carb base so that it drops down into the fuel bowl. Sometimes if they drop down more then the spec they will stick at the bottom of the swing (or arc) and this allows the carb to flood. Good luck
bubba22349":1jj9j7by said:Ok but is that with the bowl cover upside down for the measurement of float level height? Better for it to be exact height or just slightly lower then being higher then spec. IE higher as in the top of float is closer to the top of bowl cover. The float drop is with the cover as its installed on carb base so that it drops down into the fuel bowl. Sometimes if they drop down more then the spec they will stick at the bottom of the swing (or arc) and this allows the carb to flood. Good luck
Yeah that was upside down. The specs I found for that was 1.322-1.353. I didn't see anything about drop spec anywhere. I think I will install a fuel pressure regulator. Thanks for pointing that out, I never thought of that. I'll keep you posted.
Ok your particular carb may not have a spec for the drop some of the other carb brands did. Yes most of the really old carb's used back then weren't designed for very much working pressure usually they were only gravity feed from the fuel tank so it was a common thing to see fuel regulators used on these older engines. Good luck
No Spark now. I only have a test light to work with at the moment. The ignition was bad, replaced that. Replaced points and condenser. Cap and rotor are ordered. Test light shows power from coil aND that's the last it lights up. I'm electrically handicapped, especially without a meter. Any tips.
Check to see that the distributor is still grounded (point plate) good as well as the condenser i.e. It's not loose. Turn the engine so it's on #1 of the compression stroke (points still closed) ignition key on. Hookup your test light to distributor wire side of the coil, turn the engine so the points just break open while watching the test light at the same time to see if the light flashes. Make a test wire that you can hook up to the battery post and the spark plug end of the plug wires now use your test light to see if you have continuity on each of the plug wire posts of the (rotor side) of the distributor cap, also test the center coil wire post the same way. Good luck
Cap and condenser is tight. Battery started to die so I didn't do all the test. This is what I did so far. Test light to both+and- side of coil with distributer side disconnected was good. Negative side with wire connected and cranked no light flash. Replaced small coil wire to distributer cap. Tried connecting middle cap wire to a plug and crank but I don't think I had them touching good,either way it didn't spark.
Try the coil tests again with battery fully charged. Make sure both of the battery cables are clean and tight make sure the grounds going to the engine and chassis are clean and tight too. You should be able to see a spark when the points break open both across the point contacts and then also at the coil on distributor side. If you don't see it at the coil it may be one of two things. Bad or broken wire from the points (the distributor lead) or it could also be a bad or weak coil but unless you have a volt / ohm meter to use you can't really test a coils primary and secondary coils windings properly see below for the testing meathod. Good luck Edited
1. On an genuine OEM Ford coil (note other brands of aftermarket coils can have other specs) the reading across the ignistion switch side coil post and distributor side post should be .7 to .8 ohms
2. With one lead on either side of the coil and other on the center secondary (coil wire lead) inside post should read 6500 to 7500 ohms.
3. With a 6 volt positive ground system the ignistion switched lead wire (it may be coming from a resistor block) but then goes to the - /negative side coil post. The + / Posative side coil post goes to the distributor. When or if it's hooked up backwards (wires reversed) this can also be a cause for hard starting since the coils output is reduced.
Edited1. On an genuine OEM Ford coil (note other brands of aftermarket coils can have other specs) the reading across the ignistion switch side coil post and distributor side post should be .7 to .8 ohms
2. With one lead on either side of the coil and other on the center secondary (coil wire lead) inside post should read 6500 to 7500 ohms.
3. With a 6 volt positive ground system the ignistion switched lead wire (it may be coming from a resistor block) but then goes to the - /negative side coil post. The + / Posative side coil post goes to the distributor. When or if it's hooked up backwards (wires reversed) this can also be a cause for hard starting since the coils output is reduced.
Ended up being the wire inside the distributer. It started but only for a few seconds. Blew out a bunch of black smoke, I'm assuming from the excess gas in the engine. Been meaning to ask...why is there a small hole drilled in the cap. All the napa caps have the hole, it's near the bottom right where the clip goes.
Yes it was likely flooded with the extra gas, its really easy to flood those old 6 volt systems if everything isn't just right. Cap hole is to vent the inside of the cap allowing some fresh air inside all theose Sparks jumping their gaps can cause (Ionization or Ozone gas I think). There have been many cases were an engine starts missing and even quits from the build up of this gas inside the distributor cap then when the cap is opened to look for the cause of the trouble nothing is found so cap is replaced and engine starts runs fine again until it happens all over again. Glad you found the problem on the distributor lead one of curses of having old wiring. Good luck Edited
EditedProblems never end. I ran it for a short time last weekend before it ran out of gas.I thought I had a couple of gallons in it so I was confused. Put a gallon or so in it today and ran it again. Ran fine, oil pressure between 45-60. I did hear a tapping sound but I can't tell if it's valves or fan belt. Either way it's coming from the front somewhere so I soaked all the valves tonight. After putting a gallon in it ran out very quick. I pulled the dips tick, sure enough gas in the oil. I turn the gas off when not running so I could rule out carb overflow. What other ways could it be getting in there? Could the fuel pump leak and run into the oil pan? I guess it's possible from flooding it a few times before it could've gotten in there but it really seems to be going thru gas quickly when running.
Getting fuel into the oil with your setup the most likely causes are from the fuel pump, and in combo with the fuel tank shut off, last would be the carb. You could test the fuel shut off easy by disconnecting the fuel line at the fuel pump inlet and put a can under it letting it set over night or for several hours if any fuel leaks into the can then the tank valve isn't sealing good. On the fuel pump the diaphragm could be bad (split or hole in it) this would allow the fuel to leak right into the engines crankcase. Carb would be the last thing since its so much higher then the fuel pump it would be hard for it to leak much more than what's in the fuel bowl into the engine if it did the cause is usally the float or the needle and seat. Most of these should be fairly easy to fix like the fuel pump or fuel shut off valve the valve could have a nut on it to snug it up a little, pump rebuild kit or rebuilt fuel pump. Good luck
48ford+, yes that's the way. But you should start a new post for your questions for the best results. Good luck