flathead 226 industrial

S

swpaguy

New member
Hello folks. New to this site hoping on answers and tips. I have a Ford 8n tractor that has a 226 industrial motor in it. I'm not sure what the difference between industrial and regular is. It's 6v neg ground.
1. What is the correct oil filter size. It came with NAPA 1010.. That seems small.

2. How would i go about installing a temp gauge?

3. How do i adjust the timing? New everything and there is a slight muffled backfire in the exhaust.

4. Gap for points?(OK not everything new is installed yet)

5. A slight oil leak coming from around the fuel pump stem. Is there a gasket that would be bad?
 
Here are the Ford 226 Car / Truck engine specs I don't know of any major differences in an Industrial 226 version. Good luck :nod: Edited

"swpaguy Wrote 1. What is the correct oil filter size. It came with NAPA 1010.. That seems small."
Click to expand...

1. I don't know on the oil filter. but it maybe the right one you should be able to find that out for sure at NAPA.

"swpaguy Wrote 2. How would i go about installing a temp gauge?"
Click to expand...

2. Stock these engines had both Mechanical type Temperature & Oil pressure gauges so there should be a pipe threaded boss in the block or head to install a Temp gauge. If memory severs me right the boss is located on the left rear side of engine (this is standing facing the front of engine, if you have some pictures I can help ID it for you.

"swpaguy Wrote 3. How do i adjust the timing? New everything and there is a slight muffled backfire in the exhaust."
Click to expand...

3. See the tune up spec below to ID the timing mark on the crankshaft damper. You can use a timing light if you have a 6 volt one or use a 12 volt hooked up to an external 12 volt battery source. Another way is to set the timing mark to index and then turn the distributor until the points just start to open or use a test light to be more accurate.

"swpaguy Wrote 4. Gap for points?(OK not everything new is installed yet)"
Click to expand...

4. See the tune up spec below.

"swpaguy Wrote 5. A slight oil leak coming from around the fuel pump stem. Is there a gasket that would be bad?"
Click to expand...

5. Is it a new pump? You only have a mounting gasket and then the pump diaphragm. If the pump lever pivot pin is loose it could leak a bit there.

1948 Ford 226 Flathead Six Tune up Specs

Spark Plug Make: Champion H10

Spark Plug Gap, Inch: .030

Firing Order: 153624

Ignition Timing Mark: Is a Groove on Pulley

Engine Idle Speed 475 RPM

Distributor Breaker Gap, Inch: .024 -.026

Dwell Cam Angle: 36 degrees

Breaker Arm Spring Tension: 17-20 Oz.

Condenser Capacity: .21-.25 Mfds.

Distributor part number: 7HA-12127

Distributor Vacuum Advance Rate:
Degrees Advance:
at 500 RPM: 1-3/4 - 3, Inches vacuum: .40
at 1000 RPM: 5-1/2 - 6-34, Inches vacuum: 1.4
at 1500 RPM: 8-1/2 - 9-3/4, Inches vacuum: 2.9
at 2000 RPM: 10-1/2 - 11-1/2, Inches vacuum: 4.1

Valve Lifter Operating Clearance:
Intake: .014 Cold
Exhaust: .014 Cold

Cylinder Head Torque Lbs.Ft.: 50-60

Compression Pressure & Cranking Speed: 110 Min.

Engine clearance specs

Connecting Rod Bearings:
Journal Diameter, Inches: 2.2988
Bearing Clearance, Inch: .000-.0025
Rod End Play, Inch: .006-.014
Rod Bolt Tension, Lbs.Ft.: 40

Main Bearings:
Journal Diameter, Inches: 2.8740
Bearing Clearance, Inch: .0009-.0032
Crankshaft End Play, Inch (taken on rear bearing): .003-.006
Main Bolt Tension, Lbs.Ft.: 80

Valve Seat Angle, degrees: 45

Camshaft Valve Timing: (BTDC = before top dead center; ATDC = after top dead center)
Intake opens: 11 BTDC
Exhaust Closes Degrees ATDC: 10

Valve Spring Pressure Pounds at Inches Length:
Spring: 37 @ 2-1/8

Valve Stem Clearance:
Intake: .001-.003
Exhaust: .001-.003
 
Thank you. I will check and post pics for the thermostat on Sunday. .024 is the current point gap, just making sure before replacing them. Napa said the 1010 wad the correct filter... it came with autolite 437 plugs, so that's what i replaced with. Gap is.030.

A little history. This thing sat in the garage for 20 some years untouched. I started tinkering with it a year ago. Got her fired up by June but had some major hydraulic work to do on it. Got that done over the winter and had the genny rebuilt also. Started again in March and ran her plowing a few weeks ago. That's when the backfiring started. Other than that, she purrs good. I can't speak of rpms since the proof meter isn't working. It was rebuilt in 1983.... not too long before sitting.
 
Back in the old days Champions were very good plugs then quality went away, since the mid 1960's I have mostly used the Autolite's or Motorcraft's in my Ford's they last so much longer. (y)

When you get a chance post some pictures of your tractor would like to see it. I used to work on lots of the old 8N, 9N, and Ferggee's. I have a little John Deere 420 that am fixing up and looking for attachments for (FEL, 3 point, Disk, Etc.) to use on my place. Good luck
 
swpaguy":3w55pbqh said:
Here's some pictures

Not sure what this plug is
http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae33 ... 112905.jpg

"That is a Block Drain Petcock (same as is often used on the bottom of old style Radiator's to drain them) you turn top wing in and it lets the block coolant passage drain out the center hole then you turn it out to close it and refill."

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae33 ... 112850.jpg
Click to expand...

Only place I can see in your pictures where a Temp gauge might hookup is in your second picture. Above the coil and to the left on the head is a plug (about 3/4 inch) that looks like the right size for a sending unit to fit into. Do you see any others that are like that on the block or head? That's a good looking tractor looks like a real workhorse. :nod:
 
bubba22349":1lxnmaen said:
swpaguy":1lxnmaen said:
Here's some pictures

Not sure what this plug is
http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae33 ... 112905.jpg

"That is a Block Drain Petcock (same as is often used on the bottom of old style Radiator's to drain them) you turn top wing in and it lets the block coolant passage drain out the center hole then you turn it out to close it and refill."

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae33 ... 112850.jpg
Click to expand...

Only place I can see in your pictures where a Temp gauge might hookup is in your second picture. Above the coil and to the left on the head is a plug (about 3/4 inch) that looks like the right size for a sending unit to fit into. Do you see any others that are like that on the block or head? That's a good looking tractor looks like a real workhorse. :nod:
Click to expand...

thanks, so far it's been good. I'm not sure but I'll check now I know what I'm looking for. Would it matter between mechanical or electric temp gauge?

I believe I solved the backfire problem. I was swapping out parts trying to narrow it down and the plugs were the last thing. Pulled 5 & 6 first and they weren't gapped anywhere near .030. Set the right gap reinstalled and no backfire. .. it's always the small things.
 
Yes there is another one left side(as looking from the front) between 6 &5 sparkie. They both look like they will be a bear to get out. Kinda half afraid to try. Any tips on getting them loose safely? Same thing for the drain plug I asked about.
 
:beer: congrats on getting the tune right! It won't matter much on using an electrical or mechanical gauge as far as function goes, though the mechanical gauge is about the easiest one to do and shows temp even if the ignition is off. On how hard it is getting that plug out of the head it all depends if it's a brass or steel plug. Removal tips are the same for both get some good penetrating oil NAPA has a good one called "Twice as Good" soak it good then warm up the engine and use a good Six point socket to remove it. The Brass plugs are usually much easier then a steel one. These same tips will work on the drain petcock too (most of the older ones were brass bodies) except you will have to use an open end wrench on it try and turn it out. If it ends up starting to slip on the flats of the body then I use a good ViseGrip to lock onto it. If you are only wanting to make it function you can wire brush the center threads good put some penetrating oil on it and use a pair of pliers to gently break it loose usually they are not too hard to open (if turning in the right direction).

Many of the those old Ford's didn't even come with a temp gauge, so there were several ways to add the temp gauges. About the cleanest looking was to mount it in the front of the head. Many of the original 4 cylinder heads needed to be drilled and tapped to a 1/2 inch pipe thread to do this. Since yours has the 3/4 head size plug already it may be the right (NPT) 1/2 inch pipe thread too. Some people also removed that block drain petcock (these are 1/4 inch pipe thread) and used a Ford Jubilee NNA type accessory gauge (it's shorter in length) http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford- ... ABLAC.html , NAPA carried an adapter fitting that you can use to install it there in the block. And then there was a Ford accessory part that you can use to install it into the upper radiator hose if you have a thermostat it would be installed in the hose section above the adapter fitting. Some people also make their own out of copper fittings, if you know how to sweat copper it is a fairly easy job. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/FDS26 ... aQod_oEAtg , this fitting is also available in a complete kit with gauge too.

Do you have a set of gauges already there are sets of three gauges (Oil, Temp, & Amp.) in the 30.00 to 50.00 price range and also some with the Proof gauge too. Have you checked the drive cable for you proof gauge yet, it may be broken or unhooked? Since yours has the 226 that was swapped in it also may not have the mechanical tach drive unit needed on the passenger side front of the engine like the original 4 cylinder engines had. Good luck :nod:
 
Thanks bubba. I'm glad I found this site. Not many people with knowledge of the226 motor on yesterday's tractor. Thanks for the help so far everyone.
I will try to get a plug out. I just get nervous forcing anything loose on that motor. I did see those others you listed. I was thinking of the one for the upper hose but would rather install in the head... seems more accurate.
As far as gauges goes oil pressure works (about 65 at 3/4 throttle) amp works but proof doesn't. The cable spins on both ends but the gauge only moves when I mess with the cable.
As for the tune, I think I'm the one who was tuned when i did the plugs originally. That's the only reason i could think of for not gapping the plugs correctly...I should've checked that first.
This motor has impressed me so far, even more so now it's running smooth. Sure is a lot of power in such a little tractor.
I'll update once i get the temp gauge installed and I'm sure I'll need more tips song the way.
 
Actually in testing the one installed in the upper radiator hose is very close to the same temp readings as in the head as long as there is no thermostat or the thermostat is above that temp fitting. I think you will be ok breaking it loose on that big of a plug, is it the 1/2 inch pipe thread on the back side? You could drill a small hole in the center of the plug, this relaxes it some also a good rap with a hammer will shock it and break free a rusty grip. Heat also helps though you need to be extra careful around a fuel tank or it's vapors. Smaller bolts and studs are harder to get out when rusted up. Also when you install your new temp gauge fittings in the head use some anti seize on the threads so if you ever have to take it apart again it won't be so hard. Good luck :nod:
 
Next question. Assuming this would be the same carb, when ordering a carb kit they want to know what vehicle instead of motor. So what vehicle should I use as a reference. Also, what would cause the carb to flood after about 45 minutes of running? Im assuming a slight clog/obstruction not sure if the float would cause it after that long. Im gonna try a dose of carb cleaner in it today.
 
:unsure: The car and truck 226 engines used a slightly different version of the Holley 847 1V downdraft carb. I think the carb kits are probably the same thought. The industrial engines usually used truck parts, so try looking for a carb kit for a 1949 to 51 Ford F1 or F2 pickup. The carb float and or needle and seat could very well be the culprit, these had a brass float and many times with old age they will crack open and fill up with gas making them too heavy causing flooding. If you shake the float soon after it happens you can tell hearing the fuel slushing inside and see where the crack is, (fuel wicking out) they can be fixed if you can't find a new one. Open the hole just a little bit with a punch to get the gas out and let air dry or use a match then solder the hole shut. One other thing to check is the floats hinge pin sometimes they the get gummed up with old varnish and stick. On the needle and seat the originals where all metal and you will see a grove worn in them. Many times all it takes to fix them is to remove the fuel bowls top cover replace the needle seat and or fix or replace float NAPA used to sell both items separate from a carb kit. Lastly these old carbs like many other's can have excessive throttle shaft wear (vacuum leak) from all the years of use. This causes them to start running progressively worse as the engine gets warmed up and everything has expanded even more. There used to be sources for replacement shafts and bushing kits for the carb base. Good luck :nod:
 
Thanks again. It's been a long time since i tore into a carb.. this should be fun. I'm going to get the kit tomorrow and give it a go. Sounds like it should be easy just checking the float and needles. I tried can cleaner today. . No good. To me it just seems odd that it got so bad suddenly wo warning. But then again it is running even worse now, Gotta have the choke out a hair just to run.

Btw, i got the plug out and the temp gauge installed.
 
And another question. I don't know much about the fuel pump on this. And I can't seem to find the answers anywhere. Is there a screen filter on the fuel bowl also and what would the gasket size be for the top of the bowl?

The local store ordered the wrong carb kit, so I have to wait until Friday. Of course I keep tinkering in the process. It runs real good with the choke out just a bit and ran great that way for over an hour. That's why in wondering about the screen filter To check for blockage.
 
:beer: Glad you were able to get the plug out and get the temp gauge installed!

Pumps with a sediment bowl usually don't have a screen the rubber or neoprene gasket goes in a grove and the glass bowl seals against it. I don't remember the size but you should be able to measure the diameter size of the grove it fits in its also a square edged gasket it should be a common size gasket used on many Early Ford's (1949 to 51 F1 for one) and even other car and truck brands.

Dose your tractor still have the combo fuel shutoff / sediment bowl on the bottom of the fuel tank? They do have a screen that goes inside the tank to keep trash from going down the fuel line. These fuel shut offs are about the same on all the Ford 2N, 8N, & 9N's, so are easy and inexpensive to find new. If you have that part on the bottom of the fuel tank since the tank is higher then the engines carb all you really need to do is run the one piece (steel) fuel line down to the carbs fuel inlet, this is called a gravity feed fuel system like used on all these old tractors originally. Next since you don't really need a fuel pump you can bypass or unhook it altogether or you can pull the fuel pump off and make a flat block off plate to cover the hole. For extra insurance you could install a common inline fuel filter just before the carb though it really should not need one with the fine screen installed in the tank. Good luck :nod:

Additionally the carb fuel inlet should also have a screen to help keep out trash below is a link to an example of the carb fitting and the fuel tank shutoff / sediment bowl. You might take it apart at each end of the fuel line and drain your tank. Then remove the carb fuel inlet fitting and fuel tank shutoff fitting to check that those screens are both still installed and that they are clean of debris. Might also be a good idea to flush the fuel tank too if you find any trash in the screens. Edited

Carb fuel inlet fitting
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-9N-2N-8N-N ... 3641.l6368

Fuel shutoff / Strainer
http://fordntractor.com/products/Ford_9 ... aQodXUsA5w
 
Yeah its nice having piece of mind. I thought it was running hot, turns out i just had the radiator over filled a bit. I wasnt sure about the pump bowl having a screen or not and i didn't want to take it off if i didn't have to. I know about the other screen. Having to run with the choke out a bit could be a number of things but a clogged filter will be my first guess. Still didn't explain why it flooded that one time, unless it's just a dirty carb.
 
Yep they need to have the proper water / coolant level, those tractors had a pretty good cooling system and almost never overheat. Your right on cleaning and rebuild of the carb it's a good place to do next along with checking or a good cleaning of the parts assembly of the air cleaner, making sure it's hose connections are good and then adding some fresh oil inside it. Good luck :nod:
 
Was just wondering swpaguy, on how your doing on the tractor and if you got the carb problem fixed. In looking over your tractors pictures again I think you might have one of the Funk Six Cylinder conversion kits when they did these installs they used the 226 Industrial motors, there were a few V8 kits made too. Good luck :nod:
 
bubba22349":351i3eot said:
Was just wondering swpaguy, on how your doing on the tractor and if you got the carb problem fixed. In looking over your tractors pictures again I think you might have one of the Funk Six Cylinder conversion kits when they did these installs they used the 226 Industrial motors, there were a few V8 kits made too. Good luck :nod:
Click to expand...

Unfortunately I haven't had a chance to get to the carb yet. I have the rebuild kit and just waiting on some kid free time to do it. I haven't run it much since, but when I do it runs pretty good with the choke out just a hair.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top