223 LOM upgraded to BB distributor

Finished this little project yesterday and took the Ford for a drive. WOW! What a difference! We're not talking like adding Forced Air or anything, but the car really accelerates much better.

I really only needed 3 parts: 5/16" hex key, 1/4" nut driver for 5/16" bolt, and 17/32" drill bit (Fastenall).

Here are some pics AFTER I'd removed the 12-tooth cam gear from the LOM, drilled to 17/32", then installed on the BB distributor.

On the left is the BB: 5/16" v 1/4"

Measure from the base of the distributor to where distributor seats against the block. Mine was about 5-7/8" overall. Slip the nut driver over one end, insert into distributor drive, measure. Cut of until overall length is same as stock LOM.

Make sure all is REALLY lined up before epoxy, brazing, or welding.

OH! You will need the cap and rotor for the newer distributor. Swap wires, set timing, and adjust as needed. You're done!
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congrats that should be a big improvement in both economy and performance when you get everything is dialed in correctly and tuned. What are you using for the vacuum advance to get a ported hook up? Good luck

The plan is to hard plumb the existing port to the distributor with only a short length of robber tubing at the distributor. Hopefully the rigid tube will improve signal.
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If you are planing on keeping the old Holley 1V you will need to mod the carb to get the right ported vacuum signal. This will require removing the SCV and plugging that hole with soft plug then you also plug the Venturi port hole too. You only want to bring ported vacuum from just above the throttle blade that is channeled (connected) to the carbs original distributor port. If you are changing to a newer carb (Carter YF or other) like what was used with the late style 300 distributor then your good to go! Good luck edited

Ultimately, I'll be installing 2 of the 1904s on a dual carb Fenton intake.

Isn't ported vacuum just above the throttle plate at idle?? No/low signal at idle and strong signal the more open the throttle plate?
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58custom223":2js88prf said:

Ultimately, I'll be installing 2 of the 1904s on a dual carb Fenton intake.

Isn't ported vacuum just above the throttle plate at idle?? No/low signal at idle and strong signal the more open the throttle plate?
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Click to expand...

Yes you are correct the right type of ported vacuum needs to be only sourced from just above the throttle plate. Yes that's true it will provide no or a very low signal at idle and a higher stronger vacuum signal as the RPM's go up. This is what the later model distributors need to work correctly, but it's the opposite of how an old LOM system worked. As a crutch you could T into the intake manifold fitting near the base of carb and adjust the timing to suit, until you can get the carb modded. To get an idea how the old LOD system can only work correctly with its matched carb (that had a SCV) you can read this excellent tech article in this link. http://classicinlines.com/Loadomatic.asp

An LOD system uses a combination of manifold vacuum (below the throttle blade) and carb Venturi vacuum (near top in the center of Venturi) to get a weak "Load based vacuum" for the distributor advance. The Holley 1904's & AUTOLITE 1100's and many other early carbs are made this way. In its day the LOD system was good but there where great improvements to be had and Ford started going away from the LOD system to the much better Centrical & Vacuum Advance system, it was first used on the Y Block's and Lincoln V8's in 1957. The Inline Sixes still kept the old LOD system until 1966 (with Calif emissions and then across all the states in 67) with the sixes finally getting the better vacuum & centrical advance distributor and it's matched carb as a complete system these also gave them better performance and economy too. So for the new distributor to work as it was designed to it also needs to have the correct ported vacuum source. Good luck your 58 is going to be a great ride when everything is dialed in.

I am considering this replacement also, however, I don't think the 1958 had a carb with SCV. The '55 did not. I don't think those were introduced until the 1960's. The carb with the SCV was a Holley 1908 I believe.

Anyway, if you do have a carb with SCV, could you remove the SCV and replace it with a pipe plug modified with a hole thru it and piece of tubing welded to the hole which would be routed to the distrib vac can to achieve the proper vacuum signal ?

Also, I had heard that the 240 distributor uses the exact same distributor cap as the 223 and that it should not be necessary to get different spark plug wires either. Is this not true??? Only need to replace rotor to mate with 240 dizzy shaft.

Daves55Courier, I'll need to see how that is plumbed internally. Need to pull carb to remove anyway. Right now, the spark/vacuum advance is plugged into exhaust manifold..
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Daves55Courier":1ugsygv2 said:

Also, I had heard that the 240 distributor uses the exact same distributor cap as the 223 and that it should not be necessary to get different spark plug wires either. Is this not true??? Only need to replace rotor to mate with 240 dizzy shaft.

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I can tell you the 300 is a very different distributor cap and rotor than the 223. Beyond that, I changed nothing. I will be putting on a new "ballast resistor" just because the one on the car appears to be original. I've learned NOT to change too many things at one time so always go with the minimum.
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