1959 Ford custom 300 223 straight 6

Hello, I'm kind of new here what I have is a nice 59 Ford that I inherited from my father in law that has a squealing noise only when I lift my foot off the gas pedal what I have done so far is put a new NOS water pump on the 223, changed the fan belt, had the generator re built, replaced the fan pulley,re built all the brakes including new wheel cyl's and new Master cyl, rebuilt the holly carb, re placed the regulator New NOS. and still have this od sound that only happens when I de accelerate, any body have any thoughts? Vacuum maybe? it does have a vacuum wiper?
Thanks for your time.
Rocky Mountain Robert.

A bad Vacuum leak can be noisy but it wouldn't be just when letting off the gas it would be constant. If this car has set for a long time it might be a good idea to replace the intake / exhaust gasket set its a fairly easy job. At a minimum warm up the engine real good and retighten / (re torque) the intake and exhaust mounting bolts. It wouldn't hurt to re torque the head bolts too if you happen to pull the valve cover off. Without being able to hear and see it, if it's a howling noise whenever you let up on the gas I would say it's the rear axel's ring and pinion gear, could have worn bearings, and or a collapsed crush sleeve causing excessive back lash. To test that theory see how much play the driveshaft has by moving it back and forth with the wheels blocked and or the emergency brake on with the trans in neutral. Good luck edited

Thank you,
for your response I will begin the checking on the items you mentioned.
The car has only about 45000 actual documented miles but you are correct even when my father in law had her he only drove her once or twice a year and when he became ill she sat for over a year in his garage and the brakes were locked up when I got her so after having her shipped to Colorado I began the loving task of going through everything I could think of, it's been a couple of years of scratching my head and wondering who thought of this Idea especially when it came to replacing the frozen front brake cylinders.
Will get back to you when this all works out,
Thanks again,
Rocky Mountain Robert

With your car being a low mileage one the intake / exhaust gasket is probably still good I would still try retightening it as mentioned in the above post. You should also reset or check the valve lash too. These are great engines (223 six) in these cars and so much easier to work on then most late models. Best of luck on the 59, Robert!

Just spoke to my son and he said dad don't you remember we stopped the car, popped the hood and still heard the sound for a short time when we revved the motor to bring up the RPMs, he said it sounded like the sound was coming from between the carburetor and the fire wall.
I think I'm about ready to have a priest come and have a listen maybe I have a bad spirit hanging around.

Thanks again, for your help,
Rocky Mountain Robert

Ok, Last week end Fathers day had a car show and took the old girl out it was a hot day and her temp went up to a little over 3/4 on the gauge and she only squealed when I when over 40 MPH and Only on De acceleration of course.
Adjusted belt and son took the car out next day for the after noon and he said no squeal but only drove her under 40 MPH and temp stayed just a little past half.
Also have a lot of hesitation on acceleration but smooth's out once I get the idle up, I believe this might be timing because car came from sea level and I live at 5000 ft above sea level, Colorado Springs, Co and although I have tried to adjust distributer it doesn't seem to want to move Hmmmm.
Even though I'm having a little trouble with the old girl, I'm beginning to really love this car she really looks sweet with her stainless steel fender skirts.
Thanks for letting me vent here, you guys are great.
Rocky mountain Robert

Yes you certainly need to do some fine tuning to get the best from the engine in its new home's location. What's is your timing now set at? On the fan belt you should only see about 3/4 inch defection in the center when you push down. If the sides of the V are shiny, is hard, or there is any cracking then it's time to replace as it likely won't grip the pulleys properly. Check also that the vacuum can on the distributor operates and holds a vacuum. Good luck

Hello. This problem sounds to me like a air leak through a deteriorated intake manifold gasket. If memory serves the manifold is aligned on the head with metal rings and the gasket surrounds them. If there is a crack in the gasket or a chunk of it fell out, it could leak in a way where it would make a squeeky squeeling sound. I have had several of these. Also it could be a bad carb gasket (although you probably changed it when you rebuilt the carb), or a leaky gasket on the heat insulator between the carb and the manifold. Also could be a leak through a crack in the manifold. You can use wd 40 sprayed sparingly, while the engine is running, around the areas that might be leaking by spraying a small area at a time to isolate the location of the leak. Use the wd 40 can that has a spray straw to accurately direct the spray. If there is a crack, when the wd 40 enters the crack into the engine it will speed up up some. Does the tone of the noise change when the throttle is opened or closed? This can be an additional clue. Good luck with this and please post your results. Richard

BuBBa,
Hope this gets to you still tying to figure out the systems here.
Have replaced the belt first with one that had some even spacing on the bottom of the v part of the belt and then with one that looks more like a original and not really sure how to test the vacuum part on the distributer This is still the original Distributer other then cap, points, rotor and wires.(All New) I'll definitely do some home work to check the vacuum.
Thanks again for your kind and insightful thoughts.
TallTree

flatford6,
Yes, I will use your trick to look for the vacuum leak( Wd 40 spray) My son who does some wrenching for a living will be able to help me check this out this weekend And will post if with what is discovered.
I'm glad to be among the Ford six community just wish I could shake your hands or buy ya a cup of coffee for all your help.
Of course better yet would be if you guys lived a little closer.
Thanks You (megwetch)(Chippewa Indian)
Ogima Con Nos Sem Tig ( Chief TallTree ) Owner of the 223 Pony.

Robert TallTree":1brk7w6f said:

BuBBa,
Hope this gets to you still tying to figure out the systems here.
Have replaced the belt first with one that had some even spacing on the bottom of the v part of the belt and then with one that looks more like a original and not really sure how to test the vacuum part on the distributer This is still the original Distributer other then cap, points, rotor and wires.(All New) I'll definitely do some home work to check the vacuum.
Thanks again for your kind and insightful thoughts.
TallTree

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Hello Robert Tall Tree, V belts are suppose to grip on the sides not the bottom, if the belt is too narrow and goes to the bottom of the pulley shiv it will not have enough grip. The proper width of belt will ride near the top or slightly above the top of the pulley. On the vacuum canister if you have access to a vacuum pump your Golden then you remove you distributor cap hook up the vacuum pump and test by holding a vacuum and watching the advance plate to see if it moves and then holds its new position. Check to see if the advance plate can move also it can be rusted or gummed up so it won't move. If vacuum can arm dose not move or hold a vacuum then its likely bad and this would cause the hesitation when accelerating and or if the advance plate is stuck will cause the same trouble. Another way I have often done this test is to put a clean or new vacuum line on the distributor advance can sucking on it then place my tongue or crimp it down with a vise grip on the hose the test results should be the same as above. For your stuck distributor body (in block) try spraying some penetrating oil like like Twice as Good (NAPA) or Liquid Wrench at the base of distributor once or twice a day until you can get it to move. Good luck, I am also a Robert (Big Bubba)

I think you should be okay at 5000 ft abv sea level, but if you climb to higher altitudes you might need to get out and advance the distributor timing and richen the idle/fuel mixture at the carb. You definitely cannot attempt to make it up to Vail with your current adjustment. The engine will not run without making adjustments.

Ok,
Squeal started when I drove the car past 40 Mph and sprayed Wd-40 motor slightly revved and squeal stopped also found 4 intake/exhaust bolts really lose tightened them to specs, distributer is free and have adjusted it to 2 to 10 TDC ( still not sure of best setting) and still have hesitation almost stalls have to tap the pedal or ever so slightly push pedal gradually this only happens during acceleration will check vacuum adjustments next. Will give you the heads up if tightening of bolts stops squeal also noticed that if its necessary to remove and replace intake/exhaust manifold gasket that their are inserts and o rings does the gasket replace the o rings?
Some of the bolts look very rusty what do you recommend to loosen them Heat? WD-40?

Have my new dice hanging from the mirror and a hula Girl on the dash ,so I know she'll be running better soon.
Thanks again for all your help.
Rocky Mtn Robert

Robert TallTree":2c8e26wk said:

Ok,
Squeal started when I drove the car past 40 Mph and sprayed Wd-40 motor slightly revved and squeal stopped also found 4 intake/exhaust bolts really lose tightened them to specs, distributer is free and have adjusted it to 2 to 10 TDC ( still not sure of best setting) and still have hesitation almost stalls have to tap the pedal or ever so slightly push pedal gradually this only happens during acceleration will check vacuum adjustments next. Will give you the heads up if tightening of bolts stops squeal also noticed that if its necessary to remove and replace intake/exhaust manifold gasket that their are inserts and o rings does the gasket replace the o rings?
Some of the bolts look very rusty what do you recommend to loosen them Heat? WD-40?

Have my new dice hanging from the mirror and a hula Girl on the dash ,so I know she'll be running better soon.
Thanks again for all your help.
Rocky Mtn Robert

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Yes you can use some heat or a rust penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench if you can get a small wire brush in there try to clean the stud threads as best you can first. After you get all your vacuum leaks fixed it should run much better. On setting timing that might be good or you can even go with 12 degrees BTDC depending on if you have a stick trans or an Auto. If after that you still get stumbling or hesitation you may need to adjust the accelerator pump shot timing. LOL Dice and a Hula Girl your styling now! Good luck,

Bubba,
Will try liquid wrench I do have a small oxy/acet Mini torch (I used to make and repair Indian jewelry) if and when I discover that the vacuum is still leaking.
My son will be dropping by this week end so will take another look and test drive the old girl she has a automatic trans.
Timing at this time I believe is around two the lines are difficult to read what have you done to make them more visible?
What's your thought of the new electronic Ignition system that eliminates the points and condenser? It uses the original distributer so everything still looks stock.

In the 1959 ford shop manual that came with the car(nice to have) it shows a picture of the exhaust/intake manifold with sleeves or tube inserts and O rings when I purchased the exhaust/manifold casket it came as a one piece unit fiber on one side and metal on the other do you still use the sleeves along with the new casket or does this casket eliminate the need to use any of the sleeves and O rings (the old set up)?
Megwetch (Thank You) again your insights have been a blessing.
Talltrees in the mountains

Robert TallTree":2muyztu0 said:

Bubba,
Will try liquid wrench I do have a small oxy/acet Mini torch (I used to make and repair Indian jewelry) if and when I discover that the vacuum is still leaking.
My son will be dropping by this week end so will take another look and test drive the old girl she has a automatic trans.
Timing at this time I believe is around two the lines are difficult to read what have you done to make them more visible?
What's your thought of the new electronic Ignition system that eliminates the points and condenser? It uses the original distributer so everything still looks stock.

In the 1959 ford shop manual that came with the car(nice to have) it shows a picture of the exhaust/intake manifold with sleeves or tube inserts and O rings when I purchased the exhaust/manifold casket it came as a one piece unit fiber on one side and metal on the other do you still use the sleeves along with the new casket or does this casket eliminate the need to use any of the sleeves and O rings (the old set up)?
Megwetch (Thank You) again your insights have been a blessing.
Talltrees in the mountains

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Here are some of the 1959 Ford 223 tune up specs that I have

12 Volt Negative Ground
Normal Oil Pressure is 45 to 50 pounds
Cranking Compression min. is 150 psi.

Stock Spark Plug was a Champion 870 I always crossover and use equivalent in an Autolite (2954) or Motorcraft (BSF6) plug instead, the gap is set to .034

Point gap is .025 or much better still is to use a Tach /'Dwell Meter and set it to 35 to 38 degrees.

For an Auto Trans car timing is set to 6 degrees BTDC On your damper each mark is 2 degrees so you want to use the 3rd mark from TDC (this is Zero Degrees). I clean the damper were the marks are and use some white paint or chock to help see the timing mark.

Idle RPM is set to 475 in neutral.

The valve lash is set to .019 Hot or Cold. I usually warm the car up real good and then set them it's important to check the lash every so often because they will wear some and tighten up then engine performance suffers.

This is the order I use for doing tune up's quickly on these older cars.

1. Set Plug Gap
2. Set Point Dwell
3. Set Base Timing
4. On engines that have a solid litter cam, with engine warmed up good set the valve lash to spec. With a Hyd. Cam skip to next setting.
5. With the engine warmed up good set the carb mixture screw to the Lean Best Idle RPM. To do this first set it to the highest Idle RPM, then turn mixture screw in by 1/4 turn to Lean it out this will give you the Lean Best Idle.
6. Last set your Curb Idle RPM.
Edited

On the electronic conversations they can be a very good upgrade but it really all depends if you happen to use or drive the car often. Start out with all the stock settings and see how you like it afterwards then you can add a few more degrees of base timing and see how it runs. Remember though if you change the base timing then you will also need to retune the carb settings doing some or checking all above steps over again i.e. numbers 2. 3. 5. & 6. With the newer style gaskets you don't need the O rings or sleeves though if the sleeves will still fit the new gasket you could use them. When you have the intake / exhaust manifold off be sure to check to see that it's still true (Flat) with a straight edge if it's not look for an Auto Mach shop with a Belt type surfacing machine and them have resurfaced. Intake / exhaust bolt roque is 23 to 28 Ft. Lbs, Head bolts are torqued to 65 to 75 Ft. Lbs. With a car that's been sitting without use its also good to check that all your wiring connections and grounds are clean and tight for electrical and engine performance. Good luck Edited

WOW!
You definitely know your sixes good thing I didn't get into sevens or eights.
Being a amateur mechanic and trying to save some wampum ( Money )has been a slow process now if you want to speak about how to set a Tee Pee, Size a sterling ring or make a War shield, I'm your guy.
Still one day I can see me driving down the road in my Native attire with feathers blowing in the wind and as I round the bend heading off into the sunset I think ahh! I'm running with all the horses. maybe around 145.
Thanks again for your time and the detailed info will print it and keep it on hand,
TallTrees

Robert TallTree":39mi8gwn said:

WOW!
You definitely know your sixes good thing I didn't get into sevens or eights.
Being a amateur mechanic and trying to save some wampum ( Money )has been a slow process now if you want to speak about how to set a Tee Pee, Size a sterling ring or make a War shield, I'm your guy.
Still one day I can see me driving down the road in my Native attire with feathers blowing in the wind and as I round the bend heading off into the sunset I think ahh! I'm running with all the horses. maybe around 145.
Thanks again for your time and the detailed info will print it and keep it on hand,
TallTrees

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LOL, yeah have been at this a long time and my interest in Fords started longer ago then I can remember. Around 6 or so went with my Dad when he ordered a new 56 Ford F100. It was a base model with the 223 six with a 3 speed, helped him maintain it over the years, learned to drive in that old 56 and later even raced it. Over the years worked much of my life as a Mech. and also fixed up and restored lots of cars in my spare time. Well There is nothing wrong with trying to save money after all it's usually hard to earn it and it's good to know what you might really need instead of throwing a bunch of money at a problem.

I lived most of my life in the city's of Calif. in the last two years since I moved here to Flagstaff, Az area I have also made a couple of new friends Navaho's so have been learning a little about them. I do love History so yes that would be of interest to me seeing how a Tee Pee is set up, the making a of War shield, or how you make your jewelry. By the way I had to do some minor Editing for clarity in the above post after you had seen it! Good luck

I know this thread is a year old but I would like to know if you got the problem resolved, Robert. Feel free to post some pics of your car if you want. I have a '60 Edsel with a 223 and 3 on the tree so I like to see how other 223 owners are enjoying their cars. Let us know....

Time does fly yes the noise which I thought was a vacuum hose was exactly what you thought a exhaust manifold leak I found three of the exhaust bolts so loose they could be turned with your fingers so instead of taking it all apart and placing the new gasket on I decided to first just tighten them all back to spec's and low and behold no sound YES! I still have the new exhaust gasket and maybe one day I will replace the old one. Now what needs to be done is setting the timing she still hesitates upon accelerations from a stop. Although this does not stop my 28 year old from borrowing the old girl I still am a little nervous about this condition.
Last summer she got so hot (on a really hot days) that she started to over heat and vapor lock (Only at stop lights) so I installed a 12"electric fan I believe that will keep the old girl happier.
Again Megwetch (Thank You) for your time in helping me get my 1959 ford custom 300 back on the road.
Trees
P.S.
As soon as I can get some pictures up on line of the 59 I will set up a link.