226 L6 Flathead

mojojojo78

Active member
I just picked up my first 226 L6 Flathead. I started tearing it apart to see what I am getting myself into.
This is the H series (1948). I have some questions about it.
How do you get the oil filler tube out of the block? Is it just going to take a lot of elbow grease or is there something special I need to know?
I had another posting and I asked if the valves from a V8 will interchange. I think someone said they will. Will the springs change over too?
I am also wondering about the oiling system. Do these have a full flow system or is it like the V8 where only some of the oil goes thru the filter? Is it possible to change to a full flow with a common spin on filter?
I remember someone on the Fordbarn posted a picture of the straight six oil system. I just can't find it.
 
The oil fill tube is just pressed into the block it takes some elbow grease twisting and pulling up. Good luck :nod:
 
So I finally got it 75% apart. I just have the valves, cam and crank to remove.
When I got this engine I was told it was previously running and stored inside their garage. After I got it home I tried rotating the crank and it would not budge. So I took out the spark plugs to squirt some MMO into the pistons and noticed that their was a lot of rust buildup and crud in there. So I took the carb off and found the intake manifold was filled with water. I pulled the head and 2 cylinders at the bottom of the intake stroke were filled with water.
Most of the pistons came out okay, there wasn't really that much of a ridge. I didn't even break the rings. It was the #2 and #6 pistons that were tough. #6 was so rusted that I had to do a quick hone to remove all the surface rust to get that piston out. But now that they are all out the cylinders look to be in good shape. They just need to be honed, new rings and put them back in.
After I remove the valves I am going to see if they are reusable. They appear that they just need a lot of cleaning.
What would be the best way to clean this engine? I have tried engine degreaser, but it doesn't seem strong enough.
 
A Hot Tank or Jet Washer are really good I don't know if anyone uses them much now. If you can get the grease off they can be dipped in a Chem Strip vat takes all the rust off. Good luck :nod:
 
Thanks Bubba.
Will hot tanking or the chem-stripping affect the cam bearings. The engine is actually in pretty decent shape and I wouldn't want to have to replace the bearings if they don't need it.
 
Yes both of those methods will affect (destroy) the cam bearings. If you can find a Jet Washer would be best in your case, you can leave the cam in the block to protect the cam bearings and because it's a faster process it won't harm the cam bearings. Rinsing the engine off good afterwords removes the castic solution too, I have done it that way numerous times with great results. Good luck
 
Okay, I had pulled the crank out prematurely without looking for any type of timing marks or making my own. Are there any marks on the crank and camshaft gears to get them in the correct timing position? MIne has the fiber pressed on cam gear.
 
Yes there should be timing marks look for a . (Dot) or a v mark on the crank and cam gears. It Might be a hard time to see them though until they are cleaned some. Good luck :nod:
 
I did find the mark on the cam gear, now to just find it on the crank gear. There is a plate covering the gear. Does it come off at all?
I was also trying to pull the cam out. Got the two bolts off that hold the retainer plate on, but the cam won't budge. Am I missing something?
I looked at Van Pelts drawings and it just shows the two bolts holding that retaining plate on. It only moves less than 1/8" then sticks.
I have the engine turned upside down, so the lifters are holding it up. Everything is off the engine. I am stumped.
 
Sounds like the lifters are preventing the cam from sliding out of the block. With the block upside down force the lifters as far away from the cam as possible so that they allow the cam to be removed. The lifters can only be removed after the cam is removed. If the lifters are sticking in their bores, use a soft (brass) rod to drive them away from the cam so as not to mar the cam or lifters. If you are going to reuse the stock cam without regrinding it or the lifters, mark each lifter as to position so that they can be reinstalled in the same position in contact with the same lobe. Good luck.
 
Is the plate you are talking about the oil slinger? They are Tin and just slide on the crank snout up against the crank gear is its probably gummed up and stuck onto the crank gear.

X2 make sure the lifters are pushed away enough to clear the cam lobes and the cam journals. There may also be some build up of sludge on the cam bearing journals that is keeping it from coming out. If that's the case you can try turning the cam back and forth as you pull on it, then it should eventually come out. Good luck :nod:
 
I am in need of a bell-housing to fit a Ford 226 engine and will except an early style 3-speed transmission (39 to 48) I see you are near me and I have some extra 226 parts if you need something. you can call me, Roger @ 714-904-0823
 
ramjet 80":1v35kx15 said:
I am in need of a bell-housing to fit a Ford 226 engine and will except an early style 3-speed transmission (39 to 48) I see you are near me and I have some extra 226 parts if you need something. you can call me, Roger @ 714-904-0823

Your posts for parts wanted or for sale should go in the proper section "The Market Place" it's at the bottom of all the forums (see the below links for examples). Thank you for your consideration. :nod: (y)


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