New member with first Flathead

Yeah looks like I found a few sources for new guides. Not too bad price wise either.

Unfortunately I'm exhausted, 14 hours overtime in this heat on a room will do that...didn't get anything done on the flatty since I sent the last pictures.

Hmm, I took the keepers off, but I can't move the cam, nor the springs, so I guess there's still pressure? It's as though the spring is just a little too large in diameter (Or the coils too close) to allow the 918 to slide all the way on to the stem and push the guide out.

Is there a way to get email updates from these threads? I have to manually check and I feel like I'm neglecting this place!
 
226-Flaty":12970w6s said:
Yeah looks like I found a few sources for new guides. Not too bad price wise either.

Unfortunately I'm exhausted, 14 hours overtime in this heat on a room will do that...didn't get anything done on the flatty since I sent the last pictures.

Hmm, I took the keepers off, but I can't move the cam, nor the springs, so I guess there's still pressure? It's as though the spring is just a little too large in diameter (Or the coils too close) to allow the 918 to slide all the way on to the stem and push the guide out.

Is there a way to get email updates from these threads? I have to manually check and I feel like I'm neglecting this place!

Yes you can be notified whenever someone responds to your posts! When you make your posts or edit them look at the Options section below the section were your typing the post. In that Options section check the box for "notify me when a reply is posted". Next in your personal "Control Panel / Dash Board" also make sure that you have your email listed for that notification. Good luck :nod:
 
If the engine is stuck and won't turn over, you'll need to remove the timing cover and the gears and/or chain underneath. Then you should be able to turn the cam. Once you can turn the cam, you can get the lifters to their low point and have a little more room to work. I really think you might be able to jam a screwdriver in between the lifter and the end of the valve stem and "persuade" the valve enough to get it moving.

Lou
 
In reply to Lou:

The engine is definitely stuck. I've removed the pistons, rods, crank, oil pump (partially), water pump, and all threaded plugs. All that's left is the cam, lifters, valves, guides and springs.

I'm afraid to put too much force on the fiber timing gear. I looked up buying a new one, in aluminum and they're really expensive, the press on ones, or only $50 or so for the bolt on. I'd assume mine's bolt on? I need to double check that. If so, I'm going to go at it, and if it breaks, I don't have to panic. If I can get teh valves to move at all, I can pull they with pry-bat or 918 I think. If not, I'm going to have to find some way to cut the springs out so I can get the 918 tool in there better!
 
I've been working 10's so have very little time to mess with the Flatty, sorry.
Anyway, I figured out I may have been using the valve guide removal tools wrong. What I learned is that if you pry up the spring, and THEN insert the KD guide puller tool, it fits nicely around the valve stem.

Here's a pic of what I did:IMG_20170727_191606[1].jpg

I put lots of pressure on the arrangement there, and the guides will not budge! It seems like the valve heads are larger diameter than the opening int he 917's cup? That's supposed to be that way right? I think the next step is a torch? I'll have to buy one if so.

Also just to be sure, the whole assembly of spring, guide and valve is supposed to pop out the top of the block right? Like I've seen in diagrams? I'll figure it out eventually.
 
The valve guides are pressed into the block very tightly. You would need a press and proper driver to get them out. I would leave them in and if they are too loose to have proper clearance with the valve, have false guides installed. To get the cam gear off, it needs to be turned until the bolts that hold the thrust plate behind the gear are lined up with the the two holes in the gear so a socket can be inserted to remove the bolts that hold the bronze thrust plate to the block. If you can't turn the cam, the gear will have to be drilled in line with the to allow them to be removed or broken off to allow access to the bolts. Aluminum gears have two bolt holes to allow them to be pulled off the cam. Once you get the cam gear off and the rear cam freeze plug and oil pump off the cam can gently drive the cam forward and backward a little to loosen it and then hopefully turn it. Do not allow any cam lobes to hit adjacent lifters! Only very early 1947 H model engines have bolt on gears with four bolts. Good luck!!!!!!
 
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