New Distributor's for use in a 226 or 254 Ford Flathead Six!

sammywayne23

New member
Hello everyone, I am new to the forum. Currently I am working on a 254 Flathead six in sort of heavy duty pickup Ford might have built in 1950. Right now this truck just has a stock 254 flatty with a T98 behind it. I thought it might be fun to play around with the big 254 and do something different. Anyways, I would like to upgrade my load-o-matic distributor. I would like to upgrade to something with mechanical advance, as I would like options for carbs. Does anyone know where a good place to start for this sort of swap would be?

Any info appreciated,


Sam
 
I have Updated this Older Post with some good news if you have converted over to a 12 Volt Electrical System with some more current Info on how you can use the stock Ford Distributor's!

Welcome to the best Ford Six Forum. Many people in the past have swapped in a number of different Distributors like the flathead or later model six cylinder MoPar, the 170, 200, or 250 (1969 up), Ford Small Six Engines form 1968 up to 1974 for a point type or if you have converted over to a 12 Volt System then you can also use the 1976 to 1983 200 / 250 Six DuraSpark II Electronic Ignition system , or a 1960's, 1970's etc. GM Six Point or Electronic Distributor (if you have also converted to a 12 Volt System) essentially modding the shaft and Distributor body as is needed to fit into your 226 or 254 Flathead Six. In general any six cylinder Distributor that turns the same direction as the Flathead Ford Six and has a centrifugal advance (with or without a vacuum advance) could be made to work plus going with one that's also a later model electronic system also helps. Most of these distributors with the exception of a MoPar flathead six will also need to have their advance recurved / modded too.

The flathead Mopar distributor's are the correct diameter to fit into the Ford Flathead Engine's. You just need to cut the shaft off of the Ford and weld it together be sure that you match the total length of the existing Ford 226 or 254 Flathead Six Distributor, then you will have a good mechanical advance. Most any Dodge Plymouth or Chrysler Flathead Six can be used for this swap there are couple different distributor types but are all the correct diameter. However if your want to use a Pertronix in it make sure that that model distributor is one that they have a unit for. If you going to use it with points or the later Mopar Electronic Control Box Swap below than you can use any of them all the way up to the early 1960's Flathead Six's (Pre OHV Six's) and that way the Advance Curve is going to be near perfect as is. Check the below Post and link for some excellent additional info on these type Distributor swaps in an older post by site member "Flatfords" who did one of these distributor swaps on his!

If you have also converted your car or truck to 12 volt system there is another upgrade that is a very simple way to go for an Electronic Ignition System using one of the 1973 up MoPar Electronic Control Box, this can be used on any 12 Volt Point Type Ignition system and on any engine. I used this method for over 37 years on my old 1956 F350 (1965 425 Old's V8) the points don't have much current going through them anymore so they don't get burned up or need to be changed. I am not going to type up how I did this since there is a good write up already online that you can find at Go Fast for Less. https://www.gofastforless.com/ next click on Electronic Ignition it has all the directions on how to do it.

Update
There is now a new Part for a reasonable price that will let you keep your old Load O Matic Distributor (this works on any Ford Distributor) and now turn it into a Programable Electronic Ignition. All you do is lock out the old Distributor's Advance System. Details are here in this Link.
https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/2013.htm

As for carb's there are numerous ways to upgrade, and if you wanting to stay with a single or go to a multi carb system? Good luck (y) :nod:

The Additional Info by site member "Flatfords"
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=21289&p=432661&hilit=DISTRIBUTOR+CONVERSIOn+226#p432661

Flatfords Quote from Mar.15. 2009

The points, condenser, rotor, and cap are the same in the mid 47 up H and M 226/254 and the 223/262. The easy thing about converting some other distributor to fit in the 226/254 is that the distributor shaft does NOT have the drive gear on it. The gear is on the oil pump and the distributor is driven by a spline in the oil pump shaft. Therefore, any distributor for a 6 cylinder that turns the right direction (clockwise from the top) can be made to fit by either turning down or sleeving up the part of the distributor that goes in the block. The clamp grips the top of the part that goes into the block. The drive shaft with the spline can be cut off of the Ford distributor and welded to the end of the new distributor at the correct length. The distributor gear on the new distributor can be cut or ground down for clearance as the hole in the Ford block is not very deep remembering, however, part of the gear is needed to establish end clearance for the distributor shaft. Almost any later 6 cylinder distributor can be used, the easiest maybe is the 6 cyl chevy 194 230 292. Also easy is the 200 cube Ford 6. Both used electronic ignition in the later distributors. See also Distributor conversion post just above this topic. Remember that a flathead requires about 10 degrees crankshaft less maximum advance than an OHV engine. The distributor will have to be recurved. Edited
 
If you want a point type then probably the flathead MoPar Distributor. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Hey Bubba,
This question is for you. Do you have the advance curve for the stock 226 H-Series?
I am looking at a different ignition so I can use different carburetion. CB Performance makes an ignition box that you can program a timing curve into. It even has a MAP sensor that can be used for vacuum advance. And it is pretty cheap.
 
Yes and there are several other Distributors that can can be modded to fit in the 226 and 254 inch flatheads. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
What is the best total advance on those engines??? I'm sure the compression ratio is very low, but the flatheads have poor flame travel in the chambers.
I'm sure i could curve one on my Sun Distributor Tester. But would need specs.
 
The advance cruve used on the stock Mopar flathead six Distribitor is near to the ideal for a Ford flathead 226 or 254 six. :nod:
 
Hate to bring the dead back to life or hijack but I am rocking a 1950 226 H series. I plan on staying 6 volt positive ground and leave it with points instead of going electronic. I’m aware that a good Mopar dizzy is ideal for the job by cutting the shaft and welding the ford drive shaft to the Mopar unit.

My question is which Mopar brand specifically is best suited for the swap if points are the plan or even dual points if possible. Secondly is there any manufacture date range to zone in on for the hunt. Finally is there any specific points or coil source that lives up somewhat to the quality of yesteryear before?
 
So MoPar is just their name for stock factory parts to fit Dodge, Plymouth's, and Chrysler products. The Flathead six's were used from the the 1930's to early 1960's all of them are the points type, the OHV inline engines (Slant Six's) of the mid 1960's to early 1970 I think all were also still points until about 1972 sometime after that is when they went to the Electronic Ignitions. These MoPars are about the easiest you shouldn't need to weld anything just some light machining. Also the Chevy inline six's up to about 1973 or 4 weree still point type Distributors. There were also some aftermarket Distributors too, from Mallory and others that you might find used if you hunt for them. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Thank you sir I am Looking at various options on eBay but did acquire this item as it appears to be useable as conversion piece for dual points so gives more options in my search I feel.
 

Attachments

  • 5BD61DE9-E209-4600-8425-1DA1989E54C4.png
    5BD61DE9-E209-4600-8425-1DA1989E54C4.png
    1.9 MB · Views: 29
  • AC960DE9-E16C-4790-B46D-CA84C57F30DB.png
    AC960DE9-E16C-4790-B46D-CA84C57F30DB.png
    2.1 MB · Views: 29
Good score now you just need to find one of those stock Distributors that that kit fits. The points quality is lacking on many brands today I used to used NAPA's Echlin line for most all the ignition system parts (Wires, Caps, Rotors, Coils etc.), also Autolite's too (I prefer their plugs) for their quality. There are probably a few other brands that are still good and sometimes some NOS sets are found, once you see a good set of points you know what to look for. But even back in the day there were cheaper points and condensers sets sold that were a waste of time to install if you expected them to last very long. With you staying with a 6 Volt system they will last a lot longer though. A property set up 6 Volt system can still work great today too it's all about using the correct wire gauge sizes and having clean tight connections and also great grounding. Best of luck (y) :nod:
 
So I purchase this unit notice they knocked a chunk of the price off. That being said they indicate it’s a dodge truck 6 cylinder distributor for 46 47 and 48 so I know I could be taking a gamble as the dual point kit says it for 49 and up Dodge trucks. I also purchase this ford distributor shaft for the 6 cylinder so I’m hoping this all can work together but what’s the fun of living on a sure bet lol.
 

Attachments

  • 8DBB2C55-791C-4D6F-9DF3-D74873641C46.png
    8DBB2C55-791C-4D6F-9DF3-D74873641C46.png
    1 MB · Views: 23
  • 60CC4749-B8FE-4DF2-8C66-E81333BF6794.png
    60CC4749-B8FE-4DF2-8C66-E81333BF6794.png
    1.3 MB · Views: 23
  • 5F888A36-34A3-4C5F-9DE1-CCB33E12BC11.png
    5F888A36-34A3-4C5F-9DE1-CCB33E12BC11.png
    2.1 MB · Views: 23
Well maybe that's like the ones they used back into the mid or late 1930's it does at least have a centrical advance but no vacuum advance. :nod:
 
From what I’ve read vacuum advance is not a bad thing for a daily driver really but the Ford load-O-matic was a hunk of junk the way it was designed. I also read through various forums Mopar 6 cylinder distributor has nearly ideal curve for the Flathead 226 or 254 and be better to just go straight mechanical centrifugal advance. So I figure what the hell I’ll give it a shot and gather up all that and build it into one unit if possible. I’ll either have a awesome distributor built under 100 bucks or pretty cool paperweight.
 
Yeah the Vacuum advance I was talking about is the much newer system Ford started using on the 1957 and up V8's and also later on in their six's starting in 1966 on the Calif spec cars and by 1968 in all of them. These duel advance system's had the great centriveical advance system for better performance and the vacuum advance for greater economy for steady state hyway cruising. This system was used by just about all the brands for the decades after the 1950's continuing until the age of the computer systems took over.

The LOM system wasn't that bad, its a unique design that operates differently then any of other common systems. If it had all the correct parts operating together as designed this is including the matching SCV type Carb they can get very good economy and somewhat decent drive ability. Few people today even understand how the LOM system works, and you will find cobbled together miss matched systems used on cars mainly during the transitional years between the early and later 1960's and that can make for a very poor running car, you often see this on early Falcons and Mustang six's. I usually won't recommend the LOM to anyone except a purist that's restoring their car to all factory original. But of course if your wanting the very best in drivability or building the engine for a higher performance use then it's one of the first things that needs to be changed. I think you could have a decent working system especially with the duel points. Best of luck (y) :nod:
 
Makes sense and for my 1966 Ford Galaxie with the 289ci Windsor my intent is get lucky and acquire a dual point with vacuum advance dizzy for kinda best of both worlds.

Your right should of thought of how one of first step of hopping up the 226 is throwing dual intake on It or changing carbs. So nobody really running a factory setup as built by ford so system won’t work right.

A good example for this I learned when I was still into Aircooled VW bugs. The cooling system was always complained of as not adequate for the job so people would do all sorts of mods to cooling system.

Met a purist who explained the origins for the bug is unfortunately at the hands of the Germans so they probably learned a thing or two in Africa about heat.

He then explained that the cooling system included internal vanes that are directionally controlled by a thermostat based on its expansion or contraction. This allowed the system to restrict air when cold to help with warm up but also help when the cylinder heads start to really heat up direct more air to them than the cylinder (jugs). Finally the system included additional metal shrouding to help direct air closely over and through the cylinders.

The problem is nobody has the complete system almost always the lower shrouding is missing and the thermostat and vanes are removed or broken. In short a relatively stock motor with fully functional system is more than adequate even in the desert but people love to mutilate the system based on bad info and most importantly lack of understanding of the system. The only needed upgrade to this system is changing out the early fan shrouds aka pre-doghouse fan shrouds (believe they came out in 1971?) with the doghouse fan shrouds. Doghouse shrouds relocate the oil cooler out of direct path of the air so as not to heat it before it gets to the engine itself.


Sorry for going clearly off topic but your right and I should of realize this. That being said I got old school split headers and hope to swap the system to a dual intake and a 3 speed overdrive. Where I live it’s common to drive 30-70 miles one way on the highway for just about anything so need a lil more juice lol
 
I also have had several VW bugs over the years including a couple I pieced together when I was in the Army stationed over in Germany. Yes the original VW cooling system design is perfect if you have all the correct parts in good condition you have no over heating problems. I learned a few simple mod's to get a few extra HP out of them. One of my friends had highly moded engine in his Baha Bug when he gave me a ride in it was scary fast and a little squirrelly and I also use to tune my brother in-laws modded Baha Bug too. Had lots of fun with those VW's

Sounds like you will have a very good combo of parts many people don't realize how good these Flathead six's perform even stock they are within 5 HP of a stock Flathead V8. With a few hot rod parts, milled head, cam, two carbs, headers or a split exhaust, its easy to get quite a bit more power. There were even some Aluminum heads made back in the day and if I remember correctly Ford may have made a higher compression head for higher altitude areas like Denver and here were I live, I know they made them for the Model A's and the Flathead V8's. Last I heard one of our site members was going to make some new 2 carb intakes. I would like to find a nice 1949 Ford Business Coupe to build a Flathead Six for. I will be looking forward to hearing how yours turns out and maybe you can post some pictures of it sometime. Best of luck (y) :nod:
 
Sounds fun by the time I arrived at my unit they had decided to trade in the station in Germany for one in El Paso lol.

I was originally going to yank the 6 but learned that it’s has more torque and low end grunt. That and lack of overheating and not as likely to crack sold me on the 6 being the real Flathead to go with. If I wanted 300-500-700 plus hp then I wouldn’t be playing with a Flathead to start with these vehicles are built for reliable steady cruising and not meant to be bruisers. I’m not a full purist but believe some effort should be made to keep it original in appearance when possible with upgrades and techniques that were appropriate for the time or at least reasonably look like something that would of been done in its era.

I’m still in rebuild phase and first intend to fully restore as factory before hopping up the motor to learn to appreciate as well as understand what the factory has done.

I’ll keep everyone posted as I feel there isn’t strong documentation on the internet of hot ridding efforts of the Ford Flat 6s.
 
Back
Top