Looking for some guidance from the been there done that crowd. I just finished a DSII install into my 63 F100 with a 223. It runs sooo much better now. Anyway, the problem I have is the throttle linkage to the new carb. I'm assuming I'm going to have to rig up a throttle cable of some sort. Before I attempt to rig something up I thought I'd see if anyone has any guidance or pics of how they rigged up a carter to their 223/215?
By far the cable throttle system is one of the best ways to go, I have installed many over the years in the older Fords, Hot Rods and Drag race cars all using the stock Ford cable, pedal assembly, and the cables engine mounting bracket all sourced and pulled straight from the local junk yards. Toughest part is finding a long enough cable for use on an inline six engine plus many places may not keep these older cars and trucks anymore, somtimes you might find these parts on Craig's List too. Good candidates were the Maverick and Comets from 1970 to 77, some Granada's and Merc versions up to 1983 the big Ford / Merc cars of mid to late 1960's up to 1974 with a 240 six engine, also from around mid to late 1960's up to 1985 F100 to F350's with a 300 six or 240's six'es (up to around 1974) to name a few. You will find that most of the cable type throdle pedal assemblies by year groups and for any engine combo are the same only the carb end mounting brackets used as well as the cable lenght is spefic by the engine it's used for. New cables should be able to found at some good auto parts stores like NAPA or online places like eBay may have some OEM's parts from time to time. Much easier to source are the new ones made by LoCar.
Once you have your cable and pedal parts, mount the pedal assembly so that it at a comfortable height and position take your time there so it feels right. If you found the orginal Ford parts you can also get these pedal measurements off the car or truck too and examine how all these parts are mounted. If you fallow how the factory installed theirs and Mimic the pedal mounting location and firewall mounting of the cable bracket both of these are fairly fast an easy to do requiring about four holes be drilled. Everything will fit good and be easy until you get to the intake manifold of the 223, were you may have to make an adapting bracket to mount the factory type cable bracket or custom make one to mount onto the manifold depending on available bolts or the orginal throdle linkage mounting boss location and how you oriented the carb throdle arm to avaible cable mounting location. Make sure you allow enough cable slack when finding your mounting location so that the cable can be adjusted enough in the slide bracket and so the carb's throttle lever will easily return to the fulley closed position as well as opening the carb's throdle blade to wide open too. The carb if it's from a car or truck that had a cable in it will likely have the ball type throdle lever that the cable snaps onto however if it doesn't have the ball you can get one that can be mounted on the arm from most local auto parts stores. Best of luck
Thanks for the comprehensive reply Bubba! That really cleared up a lot. It's good to know I can use Ford parts for a relatively straightforward fit. I'll have to keep my eye out on marketplace and craigslist. I'm in NY so it's hard to find part cars of that vintage, and usually when you do it's a rusted out pile that the seller thinks is made of gold
For now I'll redneck up a rig so I can at least move it around the yard or down the road to the dump.
I thought I had a slick idea with switching the throttle shaft from a Load-O-Matic Autolite to a non LOM autolite so it would be driveable until I gathered a pedal setup. Unfortunately the non LOM autolite was too worn and had a huge vac leak at the shafts. O well.
Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction
Yes I know it can be hard finding parts in some areas, and the prices on these old cars are out of this world for really rough looking ones. There is still good parts in my area that aren’t rusted out but prices are out of my range on many of the early Ford body’s I like. I have been looking quite awhile now for a project car to build if they are reasonable somebody snaps them up before I know about them and then puts them up to resell again at a new inflated price, it might be that I am just cheap though. :rolflmao:
If you happen to have a good Autolite carb with SCV you can also convert it over to the ported vacuum type with just a little bit of work I can post that info if you want. I do like your idea using the Carter YF too. Best of luck
I'd love to have that info if you don't mind. It'd always be good to have an extra usable carb kicking around. Might be easier than the temporary linkage I'm concocting that involves using an old speedometer cable as a throttle cable :mrgreen:
Just a thought, would it be possible to run my LOM Autolite and run manifold vacuum to the DSII dizzy for the time being? Seems there’s a lot of discussion out there about manifold vs ported vacuum.
Yes there is a lot of discussion on the faveriote ways for Vacuum Advance hook ups I have done them both ways and have my preferences depending on the car or trucks use. There are many that will just use full manifold vacuum and cap off the SCV port. Below is the link for the Autlite 1100 SCV mod Drop A Load by site member wsa111. Best of luck.
Thanks again That doesn’t look to terrible to do. I’m going to try running the LOM Autolite off manifold vacuum for now. If it doesn’t work out I’ll convert it. Hopefully a pedal set up pops up for me soon.
Well, all my Autolite have the ol throttle shaft vac leak. Still on the hunt for a pedal set up, so here’s my makeshift speedo cable “throttle cable.” Took a bit of adjusting to get it just right, but it actually works pretty good.
Excellent looks like a great solution, there's always more than one way make things work. Vacuum leaks caused by a loose throdle shaft in the carb's base plate are a common problem and should be expected when working on these old carb's having decades of use. They usally only wear on the one side because of the throttle linkage leverage pushing or pulling the throdle arm and shaft turning against the carb base plate hole/bore plus the return spring pulling it back shut again. Had to fix or else replace many carb's when pressed for time over the years. Back about 6 months ago FTF (French Town Flyer) over on the Big Six forum was working on fixing these same problems on his supply of Autolite 2100 and Motorcraft 2150 2V carb's that he uses on his 300 powered race cars. He located all the parts and tools to repair them and then went step by step on the repair process in his posts, you can read about how he did it in the below link. This technique and probally even the same parts could work on your Autolite 1V carb's. If I remember correctly the throdle shaft are same standard size you wold need to measure your throdle shaft OD to verify this. Best of luck. :
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it might be that I am just cheap though. :rolflmao: 
Excellent looks like a great solution, there's always more than one way make things work. Vacuum leaks caused by a loose throdle shaft in the carb's base plate are a common problem and should be expected when working on these old carb's having decades of use. They usally only wear on the one side because of the throttle linkage leverage pushing or pulling the throdle arm and shaft turning against the carb base plate hole/bore plus the return spring pulling it back shut again. Had to fix or else replace many carb's when pressed for time over the years. Back about 6 months ago FTF (French Town Flyer) over on the Big Six forum was working on fixing these same problems on his supply of Autolite 2100 and Motorcraft 2150 2V carb's that he uses on his 300 powered race cars. He located all the parts and tools to repair them and then went step by step on the repair process in his posts, you can read about how he did it in the below link. This technique and probally even the same parts could work on your Autolite 1V carb's. If I remember correctly the throdle shaft are same standard size you wold need to measure your throdle shaft OD to verify this. Best of luck. 