300" L6 Piston & Head Information

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300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #1 by old28racer » Thu Apr 13, 2017 1:17 am

How far down are stock 300 pistons from top of block?
How much can be taken off the top of block safely?
How much can be milled from 240 & 300 head?



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #2 by pmuller9 » Thu Apr 13, 2017 7:46 am

Depending on the year the pistons can be anywhere from .035" to .070" in the hole.
The piston dish volumes also vary.

There are also 3 different heads that can be used on the 300
The 240 head with around 68cc combustion chambers
The 300 carburetor head with around 76cc combustion chambers.
The EFI head (1987 and newer) with around 68cccombustion chambers.

Can you tell us more about what you would like to accomplish?



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #3 by old28racer » Fri Apr 14, 2017 11:32 pm

pmuller9 Thanks for the information. I have built two GM L6 motors, a 194" and a 292", Both for nostalgia front motor dragsters.
I want to take a shot at my first Ford 300 L6. I would like to make 225-250 HP and still use as much factory exchange parts as I can. Lots of research before I get started. Will take all ideas and information I can get. Would like to have a 320" or so motor. Want to be able to run it on premium pump gas.



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #4 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sat Apr 15, 2017 9:40 am

Hi Tom,
Generally the pistons sit about .050" down in the bore. With a .040" head gasket that is not enough squeeze in the quench areas to give you much charge motion, so tightening that up can help the engine run more efficiently. As far as milling the block and head surfaces - that is a two-edged sword. Yes, you can gain quench and compression, but at the same time you are taking strength away from the block in its more vulnerable location - the head gasket sealing area. Since I run a lot of compression on my race motors I've had head gasket sealing issues and am reluctant to take more than a clean up cut off those surfaces. Your idea of using the 240 head will raise the compression about 1/2 a ratio, so I would do that and forgo taking lots of metal off the head or block. If you still want to get the piston higher in the block I'd opt for custom pistons or modified 352 FE V8 pistons.
You also mentioned going out to 320 ci. The head ports are too restrictive to support even 300 ci at any appreciable RPM so I do not recommend stroking or boring the cylinders more than .060". Less is more. Yes 1.94 / 1.60 Chevy valves wake up the top end when combined with judicious port and bowl work. I think the bigger intakes contribute more than bigger exhausts (On my 550 HP race engine I'm using 2.02 intakes and 1.55 exhausts.) Also, get rid of the positive exhaust valve rotators. Any good RV or towing cam, or even a higher lift "short track" race cam , a set of EFI cast exhausts and an aftermarket intake should get you to the 250 HP level. Good luck with your project.

I see you posted a similar query on the fordsix website. I'll cut-n-past this reply over there so you may see it sooner.


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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #5 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sat Apr 15, 2017 9:48 am

One additional suggestion: I have become a believer that the best off-the-shelf intake for either street or race is the Clifford dual quad intake with a couple of low cost Autolite 2100 / 2150 TWO BARRELS, sized accordingly. If you can find one of those intakes scarf it up - before I do. lol.

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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #6 by old28racer » Mon Apr 17, 2017 9:25 pm

I trying to get my ducks (maybe rods) in a row I found an old post that said 1965-67 300 rods have .912 pins that are the same as 351W pistons. Is this correct?



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #7 by pmuller9 » Mon Apr 17, 2017 10:26 pm

old28racer wrote:I trying to get my ducks (maybe rods) in a row I found an old post that said 1965-67 300 rods have .912 pins that are the same as 351W pistons. Is this correct?


I believe it is actually 1964 to 1968.
The Rod forging number is C5TE-A
They are getting hard to find.

Also look for the 1965 to 1968 240 six rod.
It is 6.8" long (300 rod is 6.2") and will let you use a shorter and much lighter piston.
The rod forging number is C5AE



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #8 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Tue Apr 18, 2017 1:11 pm

In a 240 ci motor you can use the early rods with a 302 V8 piston. As a matter of fact that's how the early 240s came from the factory.


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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #9 by old28racer » Tue Apr 18, 2017 8:53 pm

In all my research on this site I am still not finding what I would like to go with, maybe it's not out there. :?:

Is there any off shelf (not custom) pistons with a compression height out there that will work with the with the 300 (6.2) or the 240 (6.8) rods that will place the piston closer than .040-.050 down at TDC. Thinking more like .010-.015 down?



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #10 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Tue Apr 18, 2017 10:00 pm

no - not to my knowledge - unless you're handy with a mill and a lathe


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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #11 by old28racer » Wed Apr 19, 2017 11:52 am

Looks like the easiest way would be to use a set of 351 pistons, cut .040-.050 off the top to -0- deck and bush the stock 6,2 300 rods to the .912 pin size. Will be putting ARP rod bolts in so I can have big & small end done at the same time. Is .040-.050 off the piston top doable?



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #12 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Wed Apr 19, 2017 1:27 pm

old28racer wrote: Is .040-.050 off the piston top doable?

I've done that with a 352 FE piston:

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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #13 by pmuller9 » Wed Apr 19, 2017 4:24 pm

old28racer wrote:In all my research on this site I am still not finding what I would like to go with, maybe it's not out there. :?:

Is there any off shelf (not custom) pistons with a compression height out there that will work with the with the 300 (6.2) or the 240 (6.8) rods that will place the piston closer than .040-.050 down at TDC. Thinking more like .010-.015 down?

You are looking for a CH of 1.800" which would put the piston .010" from the top.
As FTF pointed out the only piston that is close is the Ford 352 V8 piston with a CH of 1.816" which means .006" would need to be trimmed off the top but then the compression ration is too high and a dish would also need to be milled in the piston.

A custom set of pistons are $565 from Autotec with the .975" pin. They are $48 cheaper per set with the .912", .927" or .990" pins.
The custom piston will have the dish volume needed for the correct compression ratio and the right CH for zero deck without having to machine the block.

Figure in the cost of modifying any off the shelf piston or having to machine the block, head or both, then you can check that against the cost of the custom piston. The custom piston will be a much stronger forged 4032 alloy with your choice of ring sets.



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #14 by old28racer » Wed Apr 19, 2017 11:51 pm

Thanks for all the information on pistons, rods and heads that will work with a 300 motor.

I ran across a Speed Pro Forged 351 Oval dish piston L2446F30 today. When you run compression numbers it will still be in the hole .022 at TDC but with a 1.772 CH and 68cc 240 head it would produce 10.28 CR, with a 76cc 300 head around 9.52 CR. Still would have to bush small rod end for a .912 pin, but that's no big deal. Nice forged piston that you do not have to cut and at $348 not bad price. Dish is 13.20 cc. I think for a prem. pump gas motor 10.28 CR would work real well. I will agree that a little head and block milling cost will bring the price near custom piston prices.

my problem is that I am an "Old School" motor builder and like to try a lot of parts from other motors to see if I can put a strong 300 together. :mrgreen:



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #15 by arse_sidewards » Thu Apr 20, 2017 12:00 am

Are there any rods with a compatible crank end (or close enough that one could use oversize bearings from their original application)? That could open up more forged and hyper piston choices.

Taking some material off the face of a piston with a fly-cutter is a very simple job.

If one could use an off the shelf or at least not uncommon rod in combination with an off the shelf forged piston that was decked some (or a lot) that's only a single fairly cheap machining operation. When you consider the number of people who could get such a simple job done cheap, in exchange for other work or as a favor that could be a very attractive combination for the guys who don't want to go all out but want to knock a fair bit of weight off.


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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #16 by pmuller9 » Thu Apr 20, 2017 12:26 am

If the Piston CH is 1.772 with a deck height of 10.00" and a rod length of 6.20" (After it has been resized), 3.98" stroke,
The piston is .038" from the deck top.
Using a .039" thick head gasket and 13.2 cc piston dish brings the compression ratio to 9.5 with the 68cc head and 8.9 with the 76cc head.
If you mill the block for zero deck
68cc head = 10.3
76cc head = 9.5

The Speed Pro L2446F30 piston is only for a press fit pin so bushing the small rod end is not an option.

If you want to bush the rod ends you can use the Icon IC9925-030 forged piston which is set up for a floating pin.
1.774 CH
11cc volume in valve pockets.



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #17 by old28racer » Thu Apr 20, 2017 8:35 pm

Ok guys, even thought I would like to use off shelf pistons and 240 or 300 rods, with the press or float issue and head & block milling cost the Auto Tec Custom pistons are looking like the best road to take. My only question is how do I get the correct CH to -0- deck after the block is milled .010-.020 to true it up. What information are they going to ask? What is a 300 stock cylinder height and where is it measured from (the bottom where the pan mounts to top of block)? I like that the pistons can be had both pressed & floating in the 300 6.8 rod with the .975 pin. Still not sure on what head to use 240-68cc or an early year 300-76cc head. Either one will be P&P, 1.94/1.64 intake and exhaust.

I think I'm on the right track and may be close to a build start. :D



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #18 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Thu Apr 20, 2017 8:49 pm

The nominal deck height is 10.0000" as measured from the CL of the crank journals.

If you are ordering custom flat tops then you will have plenty of compression with the early 300 head - 76 cc. You will not need valve reliefs in them.


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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #19 by old28racer » Thu Apr 20, 2017 9:03 pm

Thanks Greg, do you think I will be able to be in the 10.25-10.50 CR? I do not want to go any higher on Prem Pump Gas.



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #20 by pmuller9 » Thu Apr 20, 2017 9:39 pm

old28racer wrote:Thanks Greg, do you think I will be able to be in the 10.25-10.50 CR? I do not want to go any higher on Prem Pump Gas.

It depends on the camshaft intake duration or intake valve closing point.
If the cam has an advertised intake duration around 288* or more, then no problem.



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #21 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Thu Apr 20, 2017 10:06 pm

Well if you assume 78 cc for the chamber after a clean-up and valve job and about 7 cc for the head gasket plus a couple more for any valve head tulip and spark plug volume at zero deck you'll have about 10.5:1 static, which is pushing it for pump gas. I have a similar street rod (cammed) that I have to mix in a gallon of 110 RON with every fill up to keep the spark close to MBT and no detonation.


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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #22 by old28racer » Thu Apr 20, 2017 11:25 pm

Greg, maybe I would be better to go for 10.0 CR with our Prem gas out here at around 97-98 oct. I ran my SDRA dragster at 10.0 on Prem pump gas. That was a 194 GM with a soild Clay Smith cam and about 36 deg of advance. What cam do you have in your street rod?

This motor hopefully will end up in a D/G or E/G drag car or maybe in an altered for our open wheel nostalgia class. No street time!



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #23 by bubba22349 » Fri Apr 21, 2017 1:35 pm

Also if you have access to a set of early 240 or 300 rods they will have the smaller .912 pin size. If you go with the custom pistions then you could use the longer 240 rods for a little less pistion weight and maybe a little less cylinder wall loading. Good luck on your build. :nod:


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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #24 by pmuller9 » Fri Apr 21, 2017 2:59 pm

On the left is the Autotec piston made for the 240 rod used on the 300 crank and the stock piston on the right.
The stock piston and .975" pin weighs 819 grams
The Autotec piston and .912" pin weighs 575 grams.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/h5rwpzcctzeew ... 8.JPG?dl=0

The pistons have a 10cc dish for a 9.75 compression ratio for use with pump gas.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0a5olnskn79m1 ... 2.JPG?dl=0

The cam is a 232/232 .050" 288/288 advertised .534 lift. on a 112* LSA

This is the same piston on the 240 rod that has been polished, shot peened and resized with ARP bolt.
Notice the early rods with the .912" pin do not have the oil spit hole in the big end. The spit hole can be a point of rod failure at high rpm.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k9u6bhvzw0p5w ... 0.jpg?dl=0



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #25 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Fri Apr 21, 2017 10:07 pm

Tom, I'd say if you are building it for on track action only I'd run it with the higher compression discussed. But I'll never build another street 300 with a CR over 10:1. (I forgot the specs of the Crane cam I have in there but its pretty stout.)

Now you've got me curious about the gasser. More info please.


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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #26 by old28racer » Fri Apr 21, 2017 11:09 pm

Greg, I think I will try for a 10.50 - 10.75 CR and add a little 110 to the tank. I would still like to run a 240 head with (68cc) chambers and 1.94/1.64 valves. This is the same size head I ran on my 194" GM L6 and it really woke it up. If you come up with the Crain Cam spec's let me know if you would. I want the motor to be manageable at the track and still be respectable. Because I will run a little 110 in the tank I may even push CR up to 11:1.

I want something a little different in a gasser. Car will be a 38 Chevy Coupe with a 9" and straight tube front axel. Most guys just drop a SBC & glide and call it good. Most be 10-15 out west with that setup. Cost more to build a like 292 L6 than I will have in a 300. I have never ran a C4 or C6 trans so that will be new. I plan on running 4 Holly 94's (have them left from the 194 motor. they flow 150 cfm as singles and around 425-475 as a 4x2 setup because of a lower vacuum. Want to keep the car very 50's-60's Nostalgia. It's all on paper and in my head right know, lot's of work ahead. Should be a one of kind build out this way. Will run DG (10.50) or EG (11.50) index.

All the re-search and question are good therapy for me after my stroke. I may never be able to drive it on the track again but a good friend and race buddy can peddle it for me. Thanks Tom



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #27 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Fri Apr 21, 2017 11:37 pm

I looked up my engine specs. I built this in the '80s when I didn't know any better. I used the biggest hydraulic cam Crane offered at the time.

Specs:
#H-216/3027-2S-12
272/284 adv
.487/.515 lift
.535/.566 w/ 1.75 rar
440#/in K spring
110# closed
216/228 @ .050

This cam is surprisingly streetable. Other driveline pcs include 2500 CJ converter, 3.50 9" posi, 31" tires.

Chevy Z-28 12:1 Pistons w/ domes milled down

Still running strong on street and occasional drags.

I'd say 11.50s is a realistic goal. Good luck with your project. Sounds like fun.


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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #28 by old28racer » Sat Apr 22, 2017 12:48 am

Greg, are you running stock 300 6.8 rods? Are they & the pistons press or floating? Are the Z28 pistons forged or cast? Are you running 240 or 300 head? do you remember how much you milled of the piston dome?

Sorry for picking your brain, but I gotta ask. Tom



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #29 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sat Apr 22, 2017 7:36 pm

In that street / strip engine I used the stock 300 rods, 6.21". I think I made them full floating. The TRW Z-28 pistons were 12.5:1 forged units, but I think I got the pin offset reversed on a couple of them because the engine has always had piston slap noise. That engine uses an early 300 head. I milled the dome at an angle to match the angle of the 300 valves - 12 degrees vs 23 degrees for the SBC. That gave me about 11.5:1 CR. Too much. I blew a head gasket on the street. So I took the pistons out and milled the domes down where the minimum thickness was .150" locally. That gave me about 10.5:1. Still more than I would build today for the street.

But she do go.

Image

That engine is several generations removed from my current race engines which use Oliver connecting rods in the 240 length (6.79") Diamond custom pistons, and roller cam / valvetrain.


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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #30 by old28racer » Sat Apr 22, 2017 9:22 pm

Thanks a ton for all the information. If I use the SLP-L2446F30 pistons with a -0- deck and a 240 68cc head with a set of early 300 .912 pin rods I can get 10.28 CR in a forged piston with out braking the bank. They run $385 for a set of 8. SLP piston is a press fit pin so it will work with the early 6.2 rods. Would like to get a little more CR, maybe 10.50 but 10.28 will do and I get a forged piston. Piston has an oval dish of 13.20cc.

I think with a nice header, good intake with my 4x2 setup, Nice soild cam and a MSD Billet dizzy hopefully 240-260 HP.

Any idea where I can get a set of early 300 6.2 .912 pin rods?

PS has your race season started yet.



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #31 by pmuller9 » Sun Apr 23, 2017 4:27 pm

B&P rods may have the 64 - 68, 300 .912" pin rods. Forging number C5TE-A.
I'm not sure if they will sell cores. They may only have the rebuilt rods available which may work for you depending on the price.
Talk to Miles.

Otherwise place an add in the wanted section of this forum.



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #32 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sun Apr 23, 2017 8:04 pm

old28racer wrote:Any idea where I can get a set of early 300 6.2 .912 pin rods?

PS has your race season started yet.

I think I have a set of early early 6.21 rods w/ a .912 pin hole and no oil spit hole. I was hoarding them but am getting to the point in my life where I have too much stuff. PM me.

I've been working on rebuilding my race motor. Short block done. Head done. Its going back in the chassis tomorrow for a debut next weekend.


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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #33 by old28racer » Tue Apr 25, 2017 12:49 am

Greg, I sent you a PM on the rods and a 240 head. Tom



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #34 by old28racer » Tue Apr 25, 2017 10:59 pm

Any one out there have a bare 240-68cc head they would part with. Trying to find out what's around.



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #35 by old28racer » Mon May 01, 2017 11:18 pm

I have a few questions on using a 351FE V8 4 valve pocket piston. (#1) Is there top of the piston thick enough to mill .050" off the tops? (#2) If you can mill .050" off the tops will it be a full flat top with no sign of valve pocket? (#)3 What is the max you can mill off the piston top to be safe?

I am changing direction on the motor build and working towards 11.50 - 11.75 CR. This piston run on compression calculates to about 11.47 with FT piston, -0- Deck, 68cc head, .050 compressed gasket.

Has anyone out there done this for a motor they built or have?



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #36 by pmuller9 » Mon May 01, 2017 11:33 pm

Why do you want to mill .050" off the piston top.
The 352 FE piston only goes above the deck .016" or less depending on rod length after they have been resized.
The Felpro 1024 head gasket is .039" compressed.

The 300 EFI head has around 68cc chambers in case you don't find a 240 head.



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #37 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Tue May 02, 2017 10:01 am

Its a 352 FE piston. C.D = 1.84"

1.84" + 6.21 " (rod) + 1.99" (1/2 stroke) = 10.40". It sticks out the top of a nominal block by .040".

-.050" off the top of the (1.840 C.D.) gets you .010" down in the hole. We did this on my bud's Pinto with great success. It did survive on the track. He set up a CNC program to mill off only the amount in the quench area, keeping the original deck thickness over the chamber for added compression. You can see in the photos that a clean across cut would leave some of the valve dish. The biggest drawback to using these [stock] pistons is the older style ring pack. The biggest advantage to using them is they are relatively cheap. The total build cost for that engine scrounging used parts, doing most of the machining in-house, etc. was $700 carb-to-pan. Ran mid 11s.

You can also use the 390 FE pistons with a 1.79" C.D. but they are 4.050" standard size so your are starting out with boring the block .050" just to get the stock 390 in the hole. That starts to eat into the already-thin cylinder wall.

FWIW I just installed a set of custom pistons from Diamond to freshen up my zoomer after six years of racing it. They cost around $660. Compare that to an inexpensive 352 stock replacement and you can start to appreciate the savings by using the 352 piston in a budget build.

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Here's a photo from my wall of memories. Good little racer. Great times
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pmuller9
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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #38 by pmuller9 » Tue May 02, 2017 11:57 am

The Sealed Power and Silvolite 352 pistons show a CD of 1.816".
You would only need to machine .016" off the piston top.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp- ... /make/ford



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #39 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Tue May 02, 2017 9:43 pm

pmuller9 wrote:The Sealed Power and Silvolite 352 pistons show a CD of 1.816".
You would only need to machine .016" off the piston top.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp- ... /make/ford

I've seen 352 piston CDs listed at 1.88 also. I can only say ours measured at 1.84, like production. At any rate, be it 1.81, 1.84, 1.88 or something else, you can measure the ones you acquire, calculate how far down in the hole you want them to sit, and machine the tops off appropriately for an inexpensive hot rod motor. You can tell by looking at the ring lands that there is still plenty of meat there to support the ring for a budget NA application.


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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #40 by old28racer » Tue May 02, 2017 11:11 pm

Ya FLYER,
You are right as I have seen 5 or 6 CH for the different 352 pistons out there. I think taking what ever I need off the top to -0- deck or a .010 deck will work great with the rods we talked about and keep the dollars in control. With what we have went over I still think a $2000 build in a light altered will run 10.25 - 11.00 on prem pump gas with a little C110 added. For the few races I will run the ring back will be fine. 10.25 - 10.50 CR will work out fine and a lower CR helps cooling on a gas motor.



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #41 by worken2much » Wed May 03, 2017 8:54 am

Old28racer,

I'd suggest octane of 105 for your build. You might get by with less if you choose your cam carefully. Trouble is, with open headers you won't know there is detonation until too late. Mix 110 race gas & 100 LL, (off road use is ok) from your local airport. Works for me. I have a couple motors with similar compression. Broke pistons prior with lesser octane. Expensive gas yes, but cheap insurance.

Good luck,
Worken2much


Rule #1. Six Cylinder Racers Have Longer Cranks.
Rule #2. Unless your given name is Richard...don't be a dick.

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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #42 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Wed May 03, 2017 9:15 am

OK, Tom, I'll tell you a little story from my distant past as a FoMoCo engineer: Back in the early '80s I was working on the Mustang 5.0L GT engine program. My department manager liked to take the shotgun approach to new model upgrades, i.e. throw a bunch of improvements at the product. Needless to say this kept his staff (including yours truly) extremely busy trying to validate / certify all these changes to the product. Things like sequential EFI, MAF, headers, roller cams, block, rotating component and valvetrain upgrades, induction upgrades, emissions improvements, more power, etc.,etc. I once asked him, "Instead of inundating our department with significant, costly, and in some cases breakthrough technology changes that keep everybody busy in a near-crisis mode all the time why don't you phase these changes in over several model years so we can fully sort everything out?" His reply," Look, if I make ten changes I know five will be home runs with significant gains, a few will have very little impact and a couple may even hurt us. We'll do it all - fix the things we should have got right but didn't as soon as we can down the road, and carry on." In retrospect he was correct - I was not. You take your best shot, come up with a product that's as good a guess as you can imagine and down the road make improvements as time and resources allows. The resulting Fox-bodied GTs changed the company's stance on performance pony cars [fact: the Probe was supposed to be the new Mustang in its infancy - yuk] and brought back an era of fun-to-drive American cars. It was the '55 Chevy of the '80s - every kid wanted one. Every old codger who got in one and hammered the throttle instantly lost twenty years of age.

My point: Take your best shot. You'll get some things right - you'll make some incorrect decisions. Part of the fun of a project like yours is trying to get better as time goes by. It's taken me nigh on to fifty years of drag racing to shave a couple seconds off my times. So yeah, maybe you'll get the squish height off, or the jetting, or the cam events, or the CFM on the intake, or tire size, or gearing, or the vehicle choice, or whatever. Go follow your star and enjoy whatever journey it leads you. Good luck on your project.


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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #43 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Wed May 03, 2017 9:21 am

worken2much wrote: Expensive gas yes, but cheap insurance.

Good luck,
Worken2much


good point


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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #44 by old28racer » Wed May 03, 2017 11:52 am

FRENCHTOWN FLYER & workentomuch All points well taken. As a first time "300" builder I want to get as much information as I can before I start dumping cash into this project. I feel good about the direction I am going to take, but only track time will tell if it was the correct plan.



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #45 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Wed May 03, 2017 10:33 pm

old28racer wrote:FRENCHTOWN FLYER & workentomuch I feel good about the direction I am going to take, but only track time will tell if it was the correct plan.

I have nothing but respect for anybody who gets a drag car to go down the track, regardless of class. Not easy. If you get it to go down the track...it was the right plan. Howsoever, acquiring knowledge up front is always best, and sticking to your plan is a plus.


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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #46 by old28racer » Thu May 04, 2017 4:36 pm

FLYER Thanks for the good word and encouragement. In my years at the track I have been able to get all my rides down the track. All the dragsters & altered were SBC & BBC motors. In 2008 I built what is called a SDRA dragster that was powered by a "little" 194" inline 6 cylinder motor. It was the first inline 6 that I had built. This dragster was the slowest of all the dragsters I have run at 13.98 @ 106. I spent more time getting it to run right than any of the small & big blocks. You are spot on when you say "have a plan & stick with it". I have always been of the mind that others out there have way more knowledge than me and all you have to do is ask. Lot easier to spend a little time on a few sites than to blow money on wrong parts and machine work.

As I have always said, "ANY DAY AT THE TRACK MAKING PASSES IS BETTER THAN A DAY IN THE STANDS". This Ford 300 build will try my skills as it is something new and different, but I do have a plan and I think a 10.25 - 10.75 ET ride is in my future. :thumbup:



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #47 by F-250 Restorer » Mon May 08, 2017 2:00 am

I skimmed much of the posts, so if this has been covered I'm sorry.

To the list of heads, the 240, 300 carb, and the 4.9 efi, I think you need to add one. In 82 Ford made a 300 carbed head with odd ridges in the c.chambers that cut down the cc volume to about 72cc. I have one.



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #48 by old28racer » Tue May 09, 2017 9:30 am

If you mill .060 off a 240 68cc chamber head what is the new cc? Same question for a 76cc chamber?



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #49 by pmuller9 » Wed May 10, 2017 1:38 am

The 76 cc chamber is a .007" cut per cc.
The 240 head will be less. Don't know the exact figure.



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Re: 300" L6 Piston & Head Information

Post #50 by old28racer » Sun May 14, 2017 1:34 pm

Has anyone on this site purchased 352 Hypercutectic pistons from Rock Auto? I was not able to find them on their site? Word was that they have best price around.



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