Replacing lifters

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mudslinger
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Replacing lifters

Post #1 by mudslinger » Wed Nov 04, 2009 2:59 pm

The lifters in my truck are quiet until it has been running awhile, then a couple of them start ticking. My question is if I change out the lifters, will this wear out the cam quickly? Also, I know basically how to remove them, but are there any tricks to make it go easier? I've heard that it can be a real bitch to get them out.
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Re: Replacing lifters

Post #2 by mutt » Wed Nov 04, 2009 5:52 pm

the established theory is that years of running create a varnish n the mating parts, when either the cam or lifters get replaced, the new unit will be worn by the old part. However, Ive often enough replaced lifters w/o replacing the cam. I liberally apply "break in oil/assembly oil" to the lifter & cam faces. A small bottle will last for years. I put mine in years go. I haven checed, but Im willing to bet the wear is minimal....
How many miles on the truck? Have you tossed a qt of Marvel Mystery oil in the crankcase? Often they will respond to a cleaner like that.
About the only trick is sometimes a ring of varnish keeps you from lifting them out. Mine were like pulling teeth.... i ended up hosing them w/ PB Blaster (or MMO) it will slide down the side of the lifters and start to loosen the gum up. Then I found needle nose type vice grips were needed as an extraction tool.....

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Re: Replacing lifters

Post #3 by MI6 » Wed Nov 04, 2009 6:05 pm

I second the MMO. I've seen it quiet noisy lifters on many vehicles.

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Re: Replacing lifters

Post #4 by AbandonedBronco » Wed Nov 04, 2009 6:37 pm

If you DO have to remove the lifters, it can be a real pain. Accessing them is relatively easy.
1. Remove valve cover
2. Remove rocker arm nuts and washers and pull the push rods out. Keep track of which goes in which.
3. Remove lifter arm access cover.
4. Remove lifters.

There's nothing holding the lifters in, they just sit in the hole. So if you can pull them out, they come right out.
The problem is, there's nothing to hold on to, which is why they're usually pulled out with a magnet. But if you have a lot of junk in there, like deposits from oil buildup and stuff, like I did, nothing will get a good enough grip on them to break through that stuff. It gets frustrating after you lift them up and they keep falling back down..... (Very frustrating. I remember throwing a few things...)

If yours are like this, the best way I found to get them out is to just disassemble them while they're still in the engine. Rotate the engine until the cam pushes the lifter in question up to it's highest point. Then take some needle nose to remove the retaining spring, and take the hydraulic piston out of the lifter along with the spring. It'll now be empty. You should be able to just stick your finger into them and work them out easily. It took me four hours to get the first six lifters out before I tried this, and twenty minutes to get the next six out.

Hope this helps.



Secondly, I put new lifters in with my original cam and didn't know anything about break in fluid. It's been two years and everything seems okay. :roll:
1981 Ford Bronco 300. 3.00 final drive, 4 speed NP-435. 4bbl QuickFuel 450cfm w/Offenhauser DP Intake. EFI manifolds and 2.5" exhaust. DUI ignition.

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mudslinger
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Re: Replacing lifters

Post #5 by mudslinger » Wed Nov 04, 2009 9:09 pm

All I've done that's even close to using MMO is dumping a can of Seafoam in before my last oil change...man was that oil BLACK! :shock:
As far as using MMO, I just dump it in and leave it till my next oil change? Th truck has 108,000 miles on it, although I don't know if it has the original motor in it or not. The last time I pulled the valve cover, it looked pretty clean in there, so that should be a good sign.
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Re: Replacing lifters

Post #6 by AbandonedBronco » Thu Nov 05, 2009 10:14 am

The instructions should be on the bottle, but if I remember right from the last time I used it, it's just a pour in and leave sort of thing.
1981 Ford Bronco 300. 3.00 final drive, 4 speed NP-435. 4bbl QuickFuel 450cfm w/Offenhauser DP Intake. EFI manifolds and 2.5" exhaust. DUI ignition.

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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
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Re: Replacing lifters

Post #7 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Thu Nov 05, 2009 1:27 pm

Rule of thumb:

You can put new lifters in an engine with a used cam
but

You can't put a new cam in an engine using used lifters

exception (there's always exceptions) - When I ran dyno tests on the Mustang GT mule development motors I would run a series of slightly different grind camshafts in the same engine using the same set of lifters because I knew the engine was only going to run an hour or so on each cam and the engine had fresh oil, so there was little likelyhood of scrubbing a lobe, and, of course, each camshaft was inspected after use.

exception #2 - roller cams
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Re: Replacing lifters

Post #8 by frank b » Sat Nov 07, 2009 10:55 am

Change your oil and filter, use a good filter, not the generic $2.00 ones, add the MMO or Rislone at that time and run it a few hundred miles to see if the ticking goes away.
http://www.barsproducts.com/100QR.htm


I use rislone in standard trannies too that use motor oil or gear oil. Really cleans it up and shifts smoother.

I used a small dental scribe with a slight hook on the end to cath the inside groove on the lifter to pull them out. But as mentioned before, the build up of oil varnish and crud or the wear on the metal, catches the lifter and it will only come up so much. Spray it with WD40 or the like, but not too much, then pull up til it stops, push it back down, pull up, down, etc until it breaks free. But don't pull too hard or things will break.

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Re: Replacing lifters

Post #9 by Lazy JW » Sat Nov 07, 2009 1:41 pm

Use a wooden clothespin to pull the lifters after removing the plunger. It may require a small amount of whittling to make it fit.
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Re: Replacing lifters

Post #10 by powerjunkie » Sun Nov 08, 2009 1:34 pm

have you tried ATF? ive done it and it works just as good as MMO
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1980 F-150 Ranger 300ci M5OD-R2, 3.50 gears

1980 F-150 4X4 300ci (unknown aftermarket cam) mild port job, NP435 trans. 3.50 gears

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Re: Replacing lifters

Post #11 by powerjunkie » Sun Nov 08, 2009 1:35 pm

Lazy JW wrote:Use a wooden clothespin to pull the lifters after removing the plunger. It may require a small amount of whittling to make it fit.
Joe


i like vice grips :D i dont even bother to take it apart. just wobbel it out
"Fix it Till its Broke, Repeat"



1980 F-150 Ranger 300ci M5OD-R2, 3.50 gears



1980 F-150 4X4 300ci (unknown aftermarket cam) mild port job, NP435 trans. 3.50 gears

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Crankshaft Position Sensor

Post #12 by 50danno » Fri May 19, 2017 1:12 pm

I am trying to locate the crankshaft position sensor on my 1996 Ford 300 engine. I have pulled the air pump, fan, and everything around the crankshaft pulley and I can't even find the wire bundle that goes to it. Any Ideas?

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Re: Replacing lifters

Post #13 by wallen7 » Fri May 19, 2017 7:01 pm

they make a nice little inexpensive tool to pull lifters with, if I remember correctly KD tols makes it.

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