300 rebuild project

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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #51 by pmuller9 » Thu Nov 30, 2017 1:58 pm

Good News!
Bolt down roller rockers are now available.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/scc- ... /overview/

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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #52 by brandoncw » Thu Nov 30, 2017 7:18 pm

pmuller9 wrote:After you get the head apart, would you mind taking some measurements.

Install an intake valve in the head with only the spring retainer and keepers.
With the retainer pulled up tight, measure the distance between the underside of the retainer and the spring seat in the head.

I'm looking for the installed height of the valve spring.
The EFI valves are 4.75" in length while the 300 carb head valves are 4.81"
Just need to know if the installed spring height is also different.

Measure how much intake valve lift it takes to have the top of the valve head even with the surface of the head.
Thanks

Ok no problem. I have it apart already so ill take the measurements tomorrow.

A couple questions. Do you want the seal included in the measurement? And when you say "valve head even with the sureface of the head" do you mean hoe much left it takes to hit the bottom of the retainer or till the tip of the stem is flush to the head?

Here are a few pics i got of my head and my over due for a replacement camshaft

Im also working on a four wheeler for a guy. Only lead i had was sometimes it would start sometimes it wont. Can you guess whats wrong? Hint: timing
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #53 by brandoncw » Thu Nov 30, 2017 7:26 pm

pmuller9 wrote:Good News!
Bolt down roller rockers are now available.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/scc- ... /overview/

Sweet. They arent very bad on price compared to roller sets ive seen before. Very possible i might get them for the heck of it. What is the stock lift ratio. Those say lift ratio of 1.73
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #54 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Thu Nov 30, 2017 8:55 pm

brandoncw wrote: What is the stock lift ratio. Those say lift ratio of 1.73

Purportedly, 1.61:1, but it is likely less than that actual. That is theoretical, instantaneous.
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #55 by brandoncw » Thu Nov 30, 2017 9:16 pm

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:
brandoncw wrote: What is the stock lift ratio. Those say lift ratio of 1.73

Purportedly, 1.61:1, but it is likely less than that actual. That is theoretical, instantaneous.

Theoretical? Why cant they have just measured the lift on one side of the pivot and then the lift at the other end, put it in a fraction and reduce to x/1?
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #56 by pmuller9 » Thu Nov 30, 2017 11:06 pm

Thanks for reminding me that I need 3 measurements.

The distance from the underside of the intake retainer to the spring pocket on the head. (Installed spring height)

Distance the intake valve moves till the retainer hits the valve stem seal.

With the head lying flat on the bench, combustion chamber side down, how far does the intake valve move till it hits the bench surface.

Thanks again

Great pictures. You have your work cut out for you.
May I suggest that before you invest a lot of time in the head, clean it up and have it magnafluxed for cracks.

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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #57 by brandoncw » Fri Dec 01, 2017 7:58 am

pmuller9 wrote:Thanks for reminding me that I need 3 measurements.

The distance from the underside of the intake retainer to the spring pocket on the head. (Installed spring height)

Distance the intake valve moves till the retainer hits the valve stem seal.

With the head lying flat on the bench, combustion chamber side down, how far does the intake valve move till it hits the bench surface.

Thanks again

Great pictures. You have your work cut out for you.
May I suggest that before you invest a lot of time in the head, clean it up and have it magnafluxed for cracks.


Ok ill get those for you. And the first thing i was gonna do was wire brush the chambers and ports just to get them clean. The intakes are pretty nasty. But there isnt very much carbon build up on the exhaust or in the combustion chambers unlike my old 351w that had so much carbon that cylinder 1 exhaust valve no longer fully sealed. I got a quote on boring and hot tanking my block at $120 And ill have to double check but i think he was talking about cutting my valve seats and hot tanking the head for $100. Those prices dont seem to out of line. And he is reputable, most of the shops in my area pointed me to that guy.
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #58 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Fri Dec 01, 2017 9:30 am

brandoncw wrote:
THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:
brandoncw wrote: What is the stock lift ratio. Those say lift ratio of 1.73

Purportedly, 1.61:1, but it is likely less than that actual. That is theoretical, instantaneous.

Theoretical? Why cant they have just measured the lift on one side of the pivot and then the lift at the other end, put it in a fraction and reduce to x/1?

A rocker arm used on two different lobes will have two different ratios. The published ratio is the instantaneous ratio measured at the midpoint of the lobe lift on the cam that was originally intended to be used on that engine.

I have done dyno testing on various brands of rockers, including OEM Ford and plotted lift curves and there is a wide variation in theoretical-vs-measured ratios.
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #59 by arse_sidewards » Fri Dec 01, 2017 11:59 am

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:
brandoncw wrote:
THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:I have done dyno testing on various brands of rockers, including OEM Ford and plotted lift curves and there is a wide variation in theoretical-vs-measured ratios.


Care to share a few data points?
1994 F150 4x4 8ft, engine is basically stock.

66" leafs, extended radius arms, lockers in both ends, nothing special.

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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #60 by brandoncw » Fri Dec 01, 2017 1:20 pm

pmuller9 wrote:
The distance from the underside of the intake retainer to the spring pocket on the head. (Installed spring height)

Distance the intake valve moves till the retainer hits the valve stem seal.

With the head lying flat on the bench, combustion chamber side down, how far does the intake valve move till it hits the bench surface.

The measurements are in the order of the questions asked.

Intalled spring height: i got 1.620" may not be exactly accurate but ought to be very close

Spring retainer to stem seal: 0.510"

Valve to table: 0.340"
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #61 by brandoncw » Fri Dec 01, 2017 1:36 pm

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:A rocker arm used on two different lobes will have two different ratios. The published ratio is the instantaneous ratio measured at the midpoint of the lobe lift on the cam that was originally intended to be used on that engine.


Sorry i still dont quite understand :?
Mathematically it doesnt matter how much you change one side in a ratio it will always reduce to the same numbers. To make things simple lets use a ratio of 2:1. If we double the lift (change 1 to 2) the ratio changes to 4:2 which will reduce back to 2:1. I understand that the cam lobes may have different lift heights but it shouldnt change the ratio of that rocker, just the amount of lift.

<edit> i think i figured it out. Since the rocker pivots and technically moves in a circular motion, and the valve moves in linear motion some of the lift is lost through te rocker sliding back and forth instead of all the lift moving with the valve
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #62 by pmuller9 » Fri Dec 01, 2017 1:52 pm

Thanks for the measurements.

The installed spring height on a carb 300 head is closer to 1.7 which makes sense since the valve is .060" longer, 4.810" versus 4.750"

Same with the distance to the valve stem seal.
If a person throws in a cam with over .500" lift with stock EFI valves they will have a problem.

I like to use 4.910" SBC valves which gives plenty of margin on both counts.

The valve to table top explains why there is almost never a need to have valve pockets in the piston.
It also a dimension you may need for combustion chamber modification. Will explain later.

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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #63 by pmuller9 » Fri Dec 01, 2017 1:57 pm

brandoncw wrote:
THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:A rocker arm used on two different lobes will have two different ratios. The published ratio is the instantaneous ratio measured at the midpoint of the lobe lift on the cam that was originally intended to be used on that engine.


Sorry i still dont quite understand :?
Mathematically it doesnt matter how much you change one side in a ratio it will always reduce to the same numbers. To make things simple lets use a ratio of 2:1. If we double the lift (change 1 to 2) the ratio changes to 4:2 which will reduce back to 2:1. I understand that the cam lobes may have different lift heights but it shouldnt change the ratio of that rocker, just the amount of lift.


It has to do with the change in geometry.
As the pushrod increases the angle of the rocker it gets closer to the pivot point however the distance from the pivot point to the valve stem remains the same so there is a change in the ratio just from that perspective.

If you want to do the check, put a dial indicator on the lifter and one on the valve and chart both lifts at small increments of cam rotation.

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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #64 by brandoncw » Fri Dec 01, 2017 2:01 pm

pmuller9 wrote:
brandoncw wrote:
THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:A rocker arm used on two different lobes will have two different ratios. The published ratio is the instantaneous ratio measured at the midpoint of the lobe lift on the cam that was originally intended to be used on that engine.


Sorry i still dont quite understand :?
Mathematically it doesnt matter how much you change one side in a ratio it will always reduce to the same numbers. To make things simple lets use a ratio of 2:1. If we double the lift (change 1 to 2) the ratio changes to 4:2 which will reduce back to 2:1. I understand that the cam lobes may have different lift heights but it shouldnt change the ratio of that rocker, just the amount of lift.


It has to do with the change in geometry.
As the pushrod increases the angle of the rocker it gets closer to the pivot point however the distance from the pivot point to the valve stem remains the same so there is a change in the ratio just from that perspective.

If you want to do the check, put a dial indicator on the lifter and one on the valve and chart both lifts at small increments.

Yep i just figured that out lol. I had to think about it.
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #65 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Fri Dec 01, 2017 7:26 pm

And don't forget the possibility of differtent cams having different base circle diameters, especially aftermarket high lift cams that need to reduce the base circle diameter in order to have enough lobe height.
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #66 by brandoncw » Sun Dec 03, 2017 6:15 pm

Hey guys I just got back from a weekend adventure thing. I was looking online earlier this week and forgot to ask if these would work. I found some cool looking 2 bbl carbs advertised for Volkswagen engines on feebay. I was thinking to modify my efi intake and use the CNC plasma table to cut me out mounting plates, thread in some studs, and put three of them on. Then ill probably play with jets and tune it till it runs right.

Here's the link: https://www.ebay.com/p/2x-Carb-Carburet ... serReviews
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #67 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sun Dec 03, 2017 9:11 pm

Those look nice. At 1200 cc a VW engine is about a fourth as big as our 300 so three would be OK for a street engine. Many folks run 45s on hopped up 300s and racers use either 48s or the rare 58s. They are sure a lot less pricey than Webers.
Go for it.
Post pics and results.
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #68 by brandoncw » Mon Dec 04, 2017 2:06 pm

Ok, ill get to work on the manifold maybe next week while i wait on my block and head to clean up in a lye and water mixture. (yes i know this stuff can be pretty nasty if not handled correctly) then after the block an head have sat in the stuff for a week or so ill put them in an electrolysis tank to get rid of any rust, then it will get a little oil sprayed on to keep the rust away. Hopefully by the time all that is dont ill have enough money scratched together to get the machine work done. Should be about $220
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #69 by brandoncw » Thu Dec 07, 2017 8:24 pm

Well these intakes clean up really nice with a bit of elbow grease. Not even close to done yet though. I was wondering what the best method for cleaning the black crud out of the inside of these. My plan of attack is to get one of them cheap bottle brushes with the wire handle, stick it in a drill, fill the intake with oven cleaner and brush the heck out of it
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #70 by woodbutcher » Fri Dec 08, 2017 4:33 pm

:hmmm: Don`t even think about using oven cleaner on aluminum.You for sure won`t like the results.
Good luck.have fun.Be safe.
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #71 by brandoncw » Fri Dec 08, 2017 4:46 pm

woodbutcher wrote::hmmm: Don`t even think about using oven cleaner on aluminum.You for sure won`t like the results.
Good luck.have fun.Be safe.
Leo

I was told dont let tye oven cleaner set too long as it will eventually dissolve the aluminium. Just leave it on long enough to break up the crap then rinse it off.
Plan b might be just soak it in acetone to see if that will loosen it up
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #72 by wallen7 » Fri Dec 08, 2017 5:30 pm

Do you know any one with a media blast cabinet? That would be a quick easy way to clean without all the chemicals. I also know folks that have run a ball hone for medium-heavy truck wheel cylinders in side ports to clean them.

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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #73 by brandoncw » Fri Dec 08, 2017 6:24 pm

wallen7 wrote:Do you know any one with a media blast cabinet? That would be a quick easy way to clean without all the chemicals. I also know folks that have run a ball hone for medium-heavy truck wheel cylinders in side ports to clean them.

The collision repair at my votech school has a sand blasting cabinet. I dont kbow anything about what grit of sand they use though. It might be too course. Id like to blast it with plastic beads. But of course id like to have a lot of things. The only place left to clean really is the insides of the ports, thats why i was just gonna use chemicals, get to the hard to reach spots and loosen the crap up in there. 375k of exhaust reidue builds up quite thick :lol:
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #74 by wallen7 » Fri Dec 08, 2017 8:56 pm

Sand will clean it, just go slow and easy, don' t stay in 1 spot too long. after you finish you can polish the runners a little with sanding rolls and a die grinder. the wash it good with solvent and blow it dry. I am assuming that you are going to fab a box plenum to mount carbs.

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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #75 by brandoncw » Sat Dec 09, 2017 7:27 am

wallen7 wrote:Sand will clean it, just go slow and easy, don' t stay in 1 spot too long. after you finish you can polish the runners a little with sanding rolls and a die grinder. the wash it good with solvent and blow it dry. I am assuming that you are going to fab a box plenum to mount carbs.

Ok, ill see if the instructor will let me use it. I plan on fabbing a plenum yes. My idea for the paint sceme of the engine is either black or charcoal grey gloss, with chrome valve cover, pushrod cover, exhaust, and maybe oil pan
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #76 by brandoncw » Mon Dec 11, 2017 10:47 am

Ok i got permission to use the blast cabinet, ill get the intake all cleaned up and prepped for welding. I have a few questions regarding plenum design. For the three 2 bbls carbs i mentioned, how large should the plenum be? Should i divide the carbs to supply only 2 cylinders each? Or leave it all open so it can all mix together?
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #77 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon Dec 11, 2017 12:20 pm

I would NOT blast the manifold. You can't be sure every bit of grit is gone. I have seen a rash of engine failures related to this cause. Don't obsess over a squeaky clean runner. Wash / brush it out with solvent and go.

I would make the plenum half of the engine displacement, i.e. 150 cubic inches, or a little larger. Bigger than that gives more max HP; smaller than that gives better throttle response. I prefer to not divide it - others do.
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #78 by brandoncw » Mon Dec 11, 2017 2:08 pm

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:I would NOT blast the manifold. You can't be sure every bit of grit is gone. I have seen a rash of engine failures related to this cause. Don't obsess over a squeaky clean runner. Wash / brush it out with solvent and go.

I would make the plenum half of the engine displacement, i.e. 150 cubic inches, or a little larger. Bigger than that gives more max HP; smaller than that gives better throttle response. I prefer to not divide it - others do.

very good point on the sand possibly finding its way into the engine. ill just use acetone and a bottle brush on a drill as planned before then. ill upload pics of my progress when i start getting the fab work done.

Also i don't see any harm in covering the holes and blasting just the outside to prep for painting, do you?

As for the dividing, In theory i should be able to narrow down which carb needs to be tuned a little bit easier than if the plenum was open. Just my thought on it, feel free to give me your take on it.
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #79 by brandoncw » Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:31 pm

Boy its been a long couple of weeks. I havent had any time to work on this engine between all the tests for school, and working day in day out. Ill update you guys when something new happens
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #80 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:59 pm

brandoncw wrote:Also i don't see any harm in covering the holes and blasting just the outside to prep for painting, do you?

After a rash of engine failures attributed to grit ingested in a fleet of highly expensive prototype engines an edict went out to all suppliers saying no engine parts entering the Engine Build-up Building shall be media blasted with any form of grit.

I think an open plenum helps in the max HP department. I also think having both carbs communicate with all six cylinders makes for a smoother signal at the carbs. I also think the odd pulse timing on a split intake will adversely affect even fuel distribution on some runners. If you want to divide the plenum with a wall at least put an equalizer hole in it - say, 1/2" - like most European multi-carbed inlines did.
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #81 by brandoncw » Wed Dec 20, 2017 9:09 pm

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:
brandoncw wrote:Also i don't see any harm in covering the holes and blasting just the outside to prep for painting, do you?

After a rash of engine failures attributed to grit ingested in a fleet of highly expensive prototype engines an edict went out to all suppliers saying no engine parts entering the Engine Build-up Building shall be media blasted with any form of grit.

I think an open plenum helps in the max HP department. I also think having both carbs communicate with all six cylinders makes for a smoother signal at the carbs. I also think the odd pulse timing on a split intake will adversely affect even fuel distribution on some runners. If you want to divide the plenum with a wall at least put an equalizer hole in it - say, 1/2" - like most European multi-carbed inlines did.


Ok so ill just brush the heck out of it and soak in warm acetone then.

If i had access to a dyno tester i would build to intakes to the excact same net cubic inches. One with dividers, and one without and put them both and and see if there is any noticable difference. But i dont even know of one around me much less have access. So ill just use K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid) and make life a little easier by keeping the plenum open.
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #82 by brandoncw » Fri Mar 23, 2018 12:48 pm

Good news,
I landed a new job that pays substantially more than farm work. And Ill have regular hours 6 days a week. So that being said I should have much much more extra spending money for this project to finally get moving here in a few weeks.

First step is to get block machined, then buy a reconditioned head (I had to use mine on a salvage engine with 5 cracks in the head, engine was otherwise in great shape. got it for $100). The block with be hot tanked, deck minimally surfaced, and the cylinders minimally bored due to heavy scratches in cylinder 5.
The machinist i talked to a few months ago estimated something like $120 for the block to be tanked and bored, seems low so I'll have to call him again. Then with that out of the way I need help on how to get the pistons removed from the rods. I have a 12 ton press that I built. Do I just use a socket method like replacing u-joints to press out the wrist pin? Or will I have to have the machinist do that too?

Im thinking going a turbo build.
pmuller9 wrote:If you want to operate at 4500 rpm you can use a 63mm turbo.

Pmuller, Do you possibly know the size of first gen cummins 5.9 turbos? I couldn't find any specs

P.S. sorry i know i brought up my own dead post
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #83 by brandoncw » Fri Mar 23, 2018 1:59 pm

"The stock turbo has a 62mm compressor, but the exhaust side is tiny, not sure of the exact size. It's no bigger than 9cm, I wouldn't be surprised if it's smaller."
Pmuller I seen this on a diesel forum, everyone else there said similar numbers (60- 63 mm intake and 9 cm exhaust). Would this work for my application?

Ps. I realized i think this is the newer cummins
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #84 by pmuller9 » Fri Mar 23, 2018 2:09 pm

brandoncw wrote:Pmuller, Do you possibly know the size of first gen cummins 5.9 turbos? I couldn't find any specs

From what I can tell
The 89-91 non intercooled Holset Turbo H1C is small with a 7 blade 50mm inducer.
The 91-93 intercooled Holset Turbo H1C has a 54mm 8 blade inducer.
Yes both have very small turbine housings.

The problem is as you stated, the diesel 5.9 operates at a very low rpm and the exhaust volume is much less than a gasoline engine.
The small turbine housings required to spool a turbo on a diesel will choke a 300 six.
There has been success here running the larger Holset HX35 that has a 56mm inducer.
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #85 by brandoncw » Fri Mar 23, 2018 2:19 pm

pmuller9 wrote:
brandoncw wrote:Pmuller, Do you possibly know the size of first gen cummins 5.9 turbos? I couldn't find any specs

From what I can tell
The 89-91 non intercooled Holset Turbo H1C is small with a 7 blade 50mm inducer.
The 91-93 intercooled Holset Turbo H1C has a 54mm 8 blade inducer.
Yes both have very small turbine housings.

The problem is as you stated, the diesel 4.9 operates at a very low rpm and the exhaust volume is much less than a gasoline engine.
The small turbine housings required to spool a turbo on a diesel will choke a 300 six.
There has been success here running the larger Holset HX35 that has a 56mm inducer.

Where would the HX35 fall into my power band? 1500- 3500 rpm?
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #86 by pmuller9 » Fri Mar 23, 2018 11:35 pm

brandoncw wrote:Where would the HX35 fall into my power band? 1500- 3500 rpm?

If you turbocharge a 300 six it is hard not to make power to 4500 rpm.

The HX35 has a small T3 turbine housing that will spool the turbo for early boost.
The compressor inducer is 56mm which is on the large size for making boost at 1500 rpm on a 300 six.
It puts the turbo right at the edge of the surge zone at those points with a 4.9 gas six where they are otherwise comfortably inward on the map with a 5.9 diesel.

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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #87 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sat Mar 24, 2018 11:19 am

brandoncw wrote:... I have a 12 ton press that I built. Do I just use a socket method like replacing u-joints to press out the wrist pin? Or will I have to have the machinist do that too?

I also use a homemade 12 ton press to remove pistons. As I recollect you will have to use a sleeve that has a notch taken out of the top of it because the underside of the piston crown comes down almost to the pin bore, preventing you from getting a straight push against the pin if you try using a socket.
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #88 by brandoncw » Sat Mar 24, 2018 8:25 pm

Ok pmuller. I wanna get a parts list going so i have an idea of what im gonna be spending. I have decided to used a hx35 turbo because its rather affordable. What cam and pistons would get the best use out of this thing? Valve size? Valve springs? Should i use the scorpion roller rockers? Chrome moly push rods?Preffered timing set other than cloyes (can hardly find any but they are my first choice)? And what size carb would suit a boosted 300 well, 650 cfm? I may convert to a FiTech system later if i have too much trouble dialing in a carb. Stock or after market ignition?

For the turbo header im gonna try to use the stock efi manifolds as a template to cut out a couple flanges, or i may just use them and fab some tubing to fit it, depends on space after the build i suppose.

Sorry, i know its alot, but your guidance its greatly appreciated by many more than just I. Thanks :thumbup:
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #89 by pmuller9 » Sat Mar 24, 2018 9:15 pm

If you run the HX35 plan on power from 2000 rpm to 4500 rpm.
How much torque and horsepower are you looking for?

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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #90 by brandoncw » Sat Mar 24, 2018 9:26 pm

pmuller9 wrote:If you run the HX35 plan on power from 2000 rpm to 4500 rpm.
How much torque and horsepower are you looking for?

Those rpms sound pretty good to me, i looking to get as much as i can while still having a pretty reliable engine, not a crank snapping fire breathing monster :lol:
But i assume you want numbers, maybe 400 ft/lbs and 300 hp? If i can keep reliability with that.
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #91 by pmuller9 » Sat Mar 24, 2018 9:37 pm

Next Question.
Can you do all the following head modifications shown in this thread?
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=77808

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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #92 by brandoncw » Sat Mar 24, 2018 10:08 pm

pmuller9 wrote:Next Question.
Can you do all the following head modifications shown in this thread?
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=77808

Yep, just gotta get a rotary tool and an assortment of sand barrels
I even have a severly cracked 300 head to practice my carbide skills on first, has 5 cracks like this one
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #93 by pmuller9 » Sun Mar 25, 2018 12:21 am

Here is what I'm thinking for an economy build.

Do the head first so you know what the completed combustion chamber volume is.
With the modified EFI head chamber you can use 1.94" intake and 1.60" exhaust valve.
SI should have the 4.810" long 300 valves. If not you can use the 4.910" SBC valves.

Crane 96803 valve springs with associated retainer. 1.700" installed height. May need locators and shim set.
.530" Viton valve stem seals.

You can stay with the stock rockers arms (replace with new stock rockers) or the Scorpion rollers for extra valve lift. Your choice.

Recommend this turbo cam.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qufkzkwyxoz8o ... m.jpg?dl=0

Use a Melling iron or Comp steel timing gear set.
Install the cam, check the timing to see how far you need to advance the cam, send us the crank gear with the offset spec.
We will cut a new keyway and return the crank gear with instructions.
It is very important that the cam is installed with the intake lobe center at 110* ATDC.

Want to keep the compression low because of the early closing intake valve of the turbo cam.
The KB S3117H heavy duty piston with a 30cc stepped dish will work.
Since the pistons have an accumulator groove you can discuss a ZGS ring set from BWE.
Use with reworked stock rods.

Option 2 if you think you may want to push the boost:
Molnar "H" beam rods with custom forged pistons.

The carb doesn't have to be any larger than the base engine without boost would need, say around 200-225 hp.
The engine cfm doesn't change with boost, the air density is increased instead so the engine is getting more air by weight not volume.
If you are going to make a large volume plenum to fit the lower EFI manifold, you could get away with a 500 cfm 2 barrel which would be much simpler to modify and tune for boost.

You will need an ignition system that can provide boost retard. MSD has several types that will work.

This combination will give you plenty of torque and horsepower with 10 lbs of boost.

Hopefully there is room for an intercooler in front of the radiator.
Did I miss anything?

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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #94 by brandoncw » Sun Mar 25, 2018 11:22 am

pmuller9 wrote:Did I miss anything?

Use replacement stock push rods or aftermarket?
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #95 by pmuller9 » Sun Mar 25, 2018 11:53 am

brandoncw wrote:Use replacement stock push rods or aftermarket?

Aftermarket
The stock pushrods are .060" wall. I would go with something at least .080" wall thickness.
The exhaust pushrod sees extra force as it tries to open the exhuast valve against the extra cylinder pressure.

Since you will be using longer valves then the stock EFI 4.750" length, I'm sure you will need longer pushrods also to get the correct rocker arm geometry.
Last edited by pmuller9 on Sun Mar 25, 2018 12:11 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #96 by brandoncw » Sun Mar 25, 2018 12:00 pm

pmuller9 wrote:Since you will be using longer valves then the stock EFI 4.750" length, I'm sure you will need longer pushrods also to get the correct rocker arm geometry.

So I need to assemble the head before I order the rods? If so that seems to put me at about $700 so far not including the Turbo, cam, valves, and machine work
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #97 by pmuller9 » Sun Mar 25, 2018 12:11 pm

Yes
That is why I always say "finish the head first" because it affects a lot of the rest of the build.
What does the $700 include?

Let me add:
ARP head studs.

I wish ARP made a direct fit bolt kit for the main caps.
ARP main studs interfere with the oil pumps body.
I haven't called them to see if they have bolts separately that are close the stock length.
Last edited by pmuller9 on Sun Mar 25, 2018 12:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #98 by brandoncw » Sun Mar 25, 2018 12:20 pm

Ok, well I start my new job tonight, so ill post again when money starts flowing here in a couple weeks. Thanks for your help pmuller9

Also I just found this. It might be helpful in keeping cost down.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/build-blow-carb-less-50/
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #99 by brandoncw » Wed Apr 04, 2018 12:38 pm

My first pay check is coming soon, i worked as many extra hours as i could snag up. so my first check ought to be a pretty healthy amount. I have about a week and a half to figure out what carb i want to buy (i need to get it soon while im still in my welding class so i cam make the intake)
I am having difficulty finding a 2bbl blow-through style carb. i found this little thread and was wondering if this is worth a shot

"I did no mods to my two barrel carb ( Solex 35 EEIT ) and it runs great so you could trie that first.
Just overhauled the carb with fresh seals & valves.
I got myself a Malpassi rising rate fuel pressure regulator and an injection fuel pump to cope with the extra fuel pressure needed under boost. ( 5psi fuelpressure + 1psi fuelpressure for every 1psi of boost).
The carb cover covers the whole top of my carb including all the vents.
Got myself a MSD 6BTM to sort the ignition retard under boost conditions. ( 1.5' retard/psi )

Have an Innovate LC1 wideband monitor installed to see whats going on."

Or should i find a stock motorcraft 2bbl and modify it for boost?
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Re: 300 rebuild project

Post #100 by pmuller9 » Wed Apr 04, 2018 1:36 pm

The Hot Rod article you posted has the step by step procedure you need to do your own blow thru carb.
You might want to consider a little larger 2 bbl like the 500 cfm holley which is the equivalent to a 350 cfm 4 bbl

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