Street 300 L6 Motor

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old28racer
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #151 by old28racer » Wed Mar 14, 2018 11:01 pm

Still looking for a Ford 300 EFI head in the Southern CA area !!!!!!!!!!!! PM please if you have one for sale.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #152 by J.R. » Sat Mar 17, 2018 3:41 am

Seems like I still have a used (1972) 240" head; out in Riverside area. 240 stated to have smaller "66-69cc" chamber vs. 300" head's "76-79cc". That any help?

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #153 by old28racer » Thu Mar 29, 2018 11:52 pm

JR --- I thought 240 head were only used from 1964 - 1967 and they were 68cc kidney shape chamber.

1968 - 1987 were 300 79cc head with a mod D shape chamber.

1988 - 1997 were 300 EFI 69cc head with a fast burn chamber.

thanks
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #154 by Fordman75 » Fri Mar 30, 2018 12:31 am

old28racer wrote:JR --- I thought 240 head were only used from 1964 - 1967 and they were 68cc kidney shape chamber.

1968 - 1987 were 300 79cc head with a mod D shape chamber.

1988 - 1997 were 300 EFI 69cc head with a fast burn chamber.

thanks


64-67 is the age for the early connecting rods on the 240/300's.

240 heads were 65-74 and they were all the same size 68 cc.

300 carbed heads 65-86 were 76 cc.

EFI heads were 87-96/97( HD trucks )
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #155 by old28racer » Thu Apr 26, 2018 11:45 pm

Got most all of the parts for the build. Polished crankshaft and installed new King main bearings. New rear seal is in place. New Speed Pro Hyper pistons are at machine shop to have reconditioned rods pressed on. New cam bearings, RV cam, thrust plate, cam & crank gear are mounted. Front timing cover was marked with white paint on TDC & 10* BTDC marks to make them easier to see with timing light.

Found a 240 68cc head to replace my 69cc EFI head that had unrepairable cracks into water jacket. That's the good part :D
The bad part is that it is in a shed in Minnesota with 5' of solid ice & snow blocking the door to get in. :mrgreen:
May be another month before my buddy can get to it, pull head, strip all parts, hot tank & mag and get it on it's way out west.
The build is going slow but I am learning a lot about the 240/300 BB Ford inline 6.

A couple of pictures, nothing to get to excited about. Not sure they will come out. :lol:

<img src="https://image.ibb.co/bLzgjH/300_Motor_61.jpg" alt="300 Motor 61" border="0" />

Image

<a href="https://ibb.co/iQq36x"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/n1t1tc/300_Motor_65.jpg" alt="300 Motor 65" border="0" /></a>
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #156 by old28racer » Thu Apr 26, 2018 11:57 pm

Well pictures did not work that well. Going to try a few test pictures.

Image

Image
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #157 by old28racer » Fri Apr 27, 2018 12:02 am

That's a little better, ain't that easy teaching a 73 year old dude new computer tricks. :beer:
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #158 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Fri Apr 27, 2018 9:28 am

I also like to put a mark on the damper 30 degrees ahead of the TDC notch. That way I can check total advance with a timing light.

Example: If I zing the motor up and the 30* line is aligned with the 2* mark on the cover then the advance is 2 + 30 =32*.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #159 by Wesman07 » Fri Apr 27, 2018 9:58 am

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:I also like to put a mark on the damper 30 degrees ahead of the TDC notch. That way I can check total advance with a timing light.

Example: If I zing the motor up and the 30* line is aligned with the 2* mark on the cover then the advance is 2 + 30 =32*.


That is a great idea! I always wondered how people check their timing after it has been re curved
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #160 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Fri Apr 27, 2018 11:56 am

Like this Moroso balancer. It happens to be degreed 360* around, but the yellow paint is the 30* advanced mark. The other one is TDC #1 and #6.

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #161 by old28racer » Fri Apr 27, 2018 2:52 pm

FTF --- Thanks for the 30* mark idea, will ad it to balancer today, will make it a little easier to make sure total advance is at 36* like I want.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #162 by old28racer » Fri Apr 27, 2018 3:06 pm

My Offy DP intake manafold has a vacumm block on the side with a few small & large nipples in it. Can I pull my vacumm for the distributor advance off this setup?

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #163 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Fri Apr 27, 2018 3:35 pm

yes

You may want to read some of the many threads discussing ported vacuum signal vs full manifold vacuum signal. But for your test stand application it will work fine. When you get to putting it in a race car of course you will not need vacuum advance at all - unless you are in the Mobilgas Economy Run.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #164 by old28racer » Fri Apr 27, 2018 10:24 pm

Went through a bunch of threads on manifold vacuum and port vacuum. Lots of opinions, not all real good.

The bottom line I got out of them was as follows.

Manifold vacuum in most cases is best for street motor driveability. Port vacuum is more about emission controlled engines. As an example if you set 10* initial + 20-25* centrifical full in at 2500 rpm and had 15* from vacuum advance at cruising speed. When you excelerate manifold vacuum drops & vacuum advance drops to -0-, when you slow down to cruise manifold vacuum increases.

Bottom line was to use full manifold vacuum on a non smog engine with no computer.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #165 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sat Apr 28, 2018 11:04 am

I tend to disagree with some folks - I prefer ported signal. To each his own.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #166 by old28racer » Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:01 pm

FTF ---- I know what you mean on this subject, 20% are for ported, 20% are for manifold, 60% don't know what there talking about.

So what's your swing on ported, I need to learn more? I agree on the engine stand the manifold vacuum will be fine.

On my last Chevy :nono: 194 inline 6 I went with a MSD ProBillet mechanical advance, really worked well and easy to make changes to the advance system.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #167 by bubba22349 » Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:04 pm

X2 yes I agree! For any type street use I always use ported vaccum it usually is easier to tune and gives much better drivability. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
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I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #168 by guhfluh » Sun Apr 29, 2018 4:38 pm

My idle seems to be a little more stable with ported and vary rpm less with A/C kick on or temp but it's hard to tell. Manifold vac and idle needs less choke quicker, and idle is smoother with no lope. It's no difference at all in driving. I keep it on ported for the lope at idle.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #169 by old28racer » Mon Apr 30, 2018 7:27 pm

Image

Image

Image

Just testing my pictures again :bang:
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #170 by old28racer » Mon Apr 30, 2018 7:46 pm

I know I have went over the basic of the Autolite 4100 1.08 carb I have for this first 300 build. With all the talk about manifold / port vacuum I just want to make sure on the connections.

In top picture of the nipple just below the filter base gasket is this were the PCV hose line will connect?

In the middle picture of the choke heat nipple I will not need it as I am going to convert the choke to a manual operation.

In the bottom picture is the nipple that comes out of the carb base the ported vacuum that needs to be hooked up to the distributor vacuum advance canister?

Is the secondary open operation built into the carb and needs no additional vacuum connections?
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #171 by Fordman75 » Mon Apr 30, 2018 10:09 pm

The red circle is your ported vacuum. The other one is fresh/filtered air intake for the heated choke set up.

Run the PCV valve to the intake manifold vacuum port not the carb.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #172 by old28racer » Mon Apr 30, 2018 11:39 pm

So the fresh air nipple at the base of the air filter seat can be caped off as I will not be using it, correct?
Also I will remove the choke heat setup as it will be changed to mechanical operation.
Is the nipple from base of the carb the proper port vacuum and size.

I will run the PCV to the side of the intake as shown.

Image

Fordman75 -- Thanks for the help
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #173 by old28racer » Tue May 01, 2018 11:05 pm

Going to build a 2x2 plenum intake off a 1992 EFI lower tube section for my 300 motor build. Not having much luck finding a pair of rebuildable carbs.

Looking for a pair of Ford Autolite 2100 or 2150 1.08 or 1.14 two barrel carbs. Must be clean/rebuildable and complete.

PM me with what you have and price.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #174 by old28racer » Sat May 05, 2018 2:23 pm

Just a couple of shots of block with correct oil filter and new water temp & oil pressure sending units. Thanks for the information on what goes where.

First picture is with the balancer marked at both TDC & 30* BTDC as FTF had suggested so I can see full advance on my cam cover with a timing light while it is on a run stand (will be able to read 30* - 44*). Plan is to go for 36* full advance. Still need to paint marks white. much easier to see with a timing light.

The forth picture is of the bare sending unit hole on my 1992 EFI motor block that was for the knock sending unit. AS this motor is being built to run on prem gas and is now a four barrel carb motor with a full vacuum & mechanical advance distributor I am not planning to run the knock sender unit. Any problem with that?


Image

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #175 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sat May 05, 2018 3:32 pm

NO PROBLEM WITH OMITTING THE KNOCK SENSOR - IT WOULDN'T WORK WITHOUT THE SUPPORTING EFI ELECTRONICS ANYWAY.

I also recommend TEEing in a low oil pressure switch for an idiot light in conjunction with your pressure gage sensor. But use steel nipples, not brass, for vibration resistance.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #176 by old28racer » Sat May 05, 2018 7:10 pm

TFF --- That is what I thought about the knock sender that it needs all EFI support stuff. The motor will be more like a 240/early 300 with a carb. I will add the tee for a idiot light.

I have a 240 68cc head at a buddy place in Minnesota, he has to let the snow & Ice melt from in front of the shop roll up door so he can get to it. He will strip it of all parts & have his local machine shop clean it, pressure test and mag it before I spend the money to ship it to CA. Looks like $78 Fed Ex, but not so bad as he is giving it to me for free. :beer:

Rods are at my machine shop to be shot peen & big end sizing, new hyper pistons to be pressed on. When I get them back I should be able to get the short block all put togeather.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #177 by old28racer » Fri May 25, 2018 10:44 pm

Getting ready to install my new Speed Pro .030 hypereutectic pistons with a 5/64, 5/64, 3/16 ring set. Moly top ring, iron second ring, standard oil ring.

Keep in mind that this motor will be on a run stand for the near future until I find something to put it in. It is a mild performance street motor that I hope is in the 225 - 250 HP range with 9.3 CR and an RV cam.

I have never used Hypereutectic pistons on a rebuild so I am unsure on the ring gap.
Moly top ring gap ----- ?
Iron second ring gap ---- ?
Oil ring gap ---- ?

What is the piston to bore side wall clearance Max & Min ?
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #178 by pmuller9 » Fri May 25, 2018 11:41 pm

Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons use standard ring gaps.
Other Hypers like KB transfer more heat through the top ring and require more top ring gap.

Top ring gap for a 4.030 piston is .018"
Second ring gap is .022"
Oil ring rails are .016" or greater

Piston to wall clearance is .0015" to .002"

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #179 by old28racer » Sat May 26, 2018 1:32 pm

pmuller9 ---- thanks for the ring gap and wall clearance information. I checked the new piston to wall clearance before I took them and rods to my machine shop to have them pressed on. The clearance were all between .0015 & .002 but two of the cylinder were tight .0015 and I rehoned them to a better .0015. I marked the cylinder number on the piston to make sure the correct rod got together with the right piston. I will recheck them when I get them back from the machine shop.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #180 by old28racer » Sat May 26, 2018 6:21 pm

Just a few words & a couple of pictures on a Fel-Pro OS34601R one pc oil pan gasket for 240/300 L6 blocks. This is a top quality gasket with nice plastic snap studs (4) to make the installation go very smooth. If you have not tryed there one pc unit, you may want to. They are a few bucks more, $26 at Summit but well worth the money. Took a couple of pictures so you can see how the gasket sits on the studs and how the gasket has side tabs along the block edge to keep it in line. I have used there gaskets on BBC race motors for years and it is nice to see this guality gaskets for an inline 6 motor.

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #181 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sat May 26, 2018 9:28 pm

Those studs are a clever idea. I can think of several places they could be used - front cover, water pump, valve cover, side cover, etc. If FelPro doesn't sell them separately - they should.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #182 by old28racer » Sun May 27, 2018 12:18 pm

I got to agree with you on that one. The studs have side snap ring. When you lay the gasket down & screw in the plastic studs, then drop the oil pan and rail plates down on the studs and the snap ring will hold them in place. In my 40+ years of drag racing I have never seen a more quality setup and that they made a setup for inline 6's ( that ain't a big money gain in there all around sales) shows what kind of company they are.

Try a set on your next 240/300 build and " save the studs " for other gasket installations as FRENCHTOWN FLYER suggested.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #183 by pmuller9 » Sun May 27, 2018 9:30 pm

Take a look at the gasket surface on the oil pan.
Is it flat at the bolt holes or does the metal around the holes curve out towards the gasket surface a little?

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #184 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sun May 27, 2018 10:00 pm

Late model pans are flat and rely on bushing inserts to control the amount of gasket crush; earlier pans have protruding holes to sorta do the same thing with the then-extant cork side rails.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #185 by old28racer » Sun May 27, 2018 10:10 pm

A few were up and I hit them all with my die grinder with a small sanding disk. All nice and flat now.
I just made a test fit to see if everthing was as it shoul be. Looks nice

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #186 by pmuller9 » Sun May 27, 2018 10:40 pm

Nice job :thumbup:

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #187 by old28racer » Mon May 28, 2018 2:26 pm

I hope to get back my reconditioned rods with the new Speed Pro pistons pressed on this week so I can button up the bottom end.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #188 by bubba22349 » Tue May 29, 2018 10:25 am

Quote by "old28racer"

Question on where to connect the PCV on the valve cover. Most I have seen run to the bottom of the air cleaner plate, but because I have vacuum ports on my intake I wanted to know if one of them would work below carb?

Image
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #189 by bubba22349 » Tue May 29, 2018 10:27 am

Quote by "old28racer"

Answer from question I put on another incorrect thread of another member.

Running a hose from the PCV to the base of the air cleaner dosent do anything. A PCV always needs to have a vacuum source that is below the carb's throdle blades (Manifold Vacuum) to work correctly, some carb's have this built into the base plate. Next if the valve covers breather /oil fill cap has a nipple on it then it would go to the air cleaner base, this gives you the very best, a full closed PCV system. Good luck

I am a bit confused as I see no difference between the vacuum reading at the carb plate base and the manifold vacuum from one of the nipples shown in the picture in the side of my Offy intake.

Yes that's because there would be no difference and yes you could use one those manifold vacuum ports if you wanted.
Quote by "old28racer"
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A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #190 by old28racer » Sat Jun 09, 2018 12:11 am

Well this has not been a good 3 months for my 300 street motor build. Back in April my machine shop informed me that my EFI head was cracked and scrap metal and a few days ago my buddy called to let me know the 240 head he had for me was also cracked. :bang:

Not a lot of 240 68cc, 300 76cc or 300 69cc EFI heads out in the Southern CA area. :roll:

I am looking for a bare head as I have larger SS valves, new springs, keepers and locks to build a new Hi Pro head. If you have a bare head or know of someone that has one for sale please reply on this thread or PM me on this site.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #191 by old28racer » Thu Jun 14, 2018 11:26 pm

Copied this picture from razor-rod thread so I will have an idea where I am headed with my EFI Plenum Intake with dual Autolite 2100 carbs. RR hope your OK with this, thanks.

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