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Motor Oil Question

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franko66
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Motor Oil Question

Post #1 by franko66 » Fri Jan 08, 2010 4:57 pm

I know this question has been wore out. whats the best oil to run in a stock Ford 200 6? I have been running with Rotella .A diesel engine grade per some post I read in the past.It has zinc in the oil to reduce friction wear.It just seems a little thick when starting this winter. Do you think Royal Purple would be a better oil in the colder months than Rotella. This winter When I do a cold start I hear a few lifters tick until the engine runs for 2 or 3 minutes.Afterwards , no lifter noise. Can start it up 6 hours later, still no lifter noise. I am ready to try a different oil grade and viscosity. Whats the best year round oil to use for a 1966 ford 200 inline 6 cyl ? A little lifter noise is probably normal with these engines when cold starts in Winter. Never owner one until this one.

Harte3
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Re: Motor Oil Question

Post #2 by Harte3 » Fri Jan 08, 2010 6:03 pm

You are correct...the question is wore out, usually restarts the "oil wars" with the result being...there is no definitive answer as to what is best for you.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum70/

Try those two Forums.
'83 F150 300, 0.030 over, Offy DP, Holley 4160/1848-1 465 cfm, Comp Cam 260H. P/P head, EFI exhaust manifolds, Walker Y Pipe, Super Cat, Turbo muffler, Recurved DSII, Mallory HyFire 6a, ACCEL Super Stock Coil, Taylor 8mm Wires, EFI plugs.

mutt
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Re: Motor Oil Question

Post #3 by mutt » Fri Jan 08, 2010 6:22 pm

as above. Synth in this app is a waste of $. If you are in cold climate, or its cold in the AM, use the right multigrade , cant go wrong. 10-30, there you go. hot summers? 20-50, parts store cheap house brand, change every 3k.
When it sits overnight, the lifters under load bleed down. The oil is thick in he AM so it takes a bit to pump the lifters up. Normal.....

Luckyman
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Re: Motor Oil Question

Post #4 by Luckyman » Fri Jan 08, 2010 6:30 pm

What mutt said about some lifter noise being normal on a cold start. Given the climate you appear to be in and the age of your engine, I would use a good 10-30 in the winter and a 10-40 or 15-40 in the summer. Synthetics are good, and can be safely used for 2-3X longer than conventional, but unless your engine is unusually tight for its age it will find its way out everywhere. Gets messy.
1 "76" F150 RC, LB, 2WD, 300, NP435, 9" open 3.00, special order 2-76/Delivered 4-76. Still "new".

1 "73-79" F150 RC/SS/SB/4WD, "84"-300, T18, NP205, 9" open 3.50, Dana 44 3.50 open, Offy DP, Holley 470, EFI + single 2.5" exhaust. Gathered from 15+ donor/parts trucks. "Fubar". Runs good, safe, still needs details/project continues.

Lazy JW
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Re: Motor Oil Question

Post #5 by Lazy JW » Fri Jan 08, 2010 7:37 pm

Asking what oil to use is sorta like asking what type of beer you drink :beer: ; I don't drink beer but I do have opinions about oil. You are probably safer to criticize a man's choice of women, religion, or politics than to badmouth his choice of motor oils :nono:

I'll be the contrarian and say that I prefer synthetics in the winter time; this is actually why they were developed originally so it seems reasonable to me. Synthetics definitely can exhibit superior pumpability in cold temps, I like 5w-30 synthetic and since I am a tightwad I use the Walmart SuperTech Full Synthetic stuff; I can install it at the autumnal equinox and drain it at the vernal equinox, life is good :thumbup:

A 300 in good condition shouldn't need 20w-50 any place in the continental United States :bang:
Joe
"The White OX" 1974 F-350 300-6, Stock single exhaust, Carter YF, T-18A, Dana70 w/4.11, Flatbed dually w/dump bed. "Where no oxen are, the crib is clean, but much increase is by the strength of the ox" (Proverbs 14:4)
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The Plankster Prankster
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Re: Motor Oil Question

Post #6 by The Plankster Prankster » Sat Jan 09, 2010 5:02 am

Lazy JW wrote:A 300 in good condition shouldn't need 20w-50 any place in the continental United States :bang:
Joe

but one in the condition mine is in, does require it even in this cold wet climate, 33* rain with wind is by far the coldest weather known to man. 10* snow is warmer by far
83 F250 flatbed 300-6, NP435, 4X4, 5800lbs empty weight
87 E-350 6.9 diesel, c6, 3.55s, powertrax no-slip locker, onboard 120v power and compressed air, built out with toolboxes and toys

kelly
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Re: Motor Oil Question

Post #7 by kelly » Sat Jan 09, 2010 8:22 am

i've noticed last couple years in my older engines, when i use high milage oil i cut 50% on consumption. engines were using 1 qrt at 2k another at 3k. only down 1 at 3k with hm oil. only buy on good sale. similer results with luces addittive with alittle less lifter noise at startup

Lazy JW
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Re: Motor Oil Question

Post #8 by Lazy JW » Sat Jan 09, 2010 8:39 am

The Plankster Prankster wrote:...33* rain with wind is by far the coldest weather known to man. 10* snow is warmer by far


That does indeed feel colder to you, but your engine prefers the 33º with rain.
Joe
"The White OX" 1974 F-350 300-6, Stock single exhaust, Carter YF, T-18A, Dana70 w/4.11, Flatbed dually w/dump bed. "Where no oxen are, the crib is clean, but much increase is by the strength of the ox" (Proverbs 14:4)
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Craigwell
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Re: Motor Oil Question

Post #9 by Craigwell » Sun Jan 10, 2010 8:54 pm

Trust Mutt (he knows about cold starts from "Varmint" winters - no I wont forget that story!) and LazyJW is also correct. 33 and rain is fine. Put thinner oil in for the winter. A couple of our 300's are fairly badly worn out, and even they wont get thinner than 10W30, here in Nova Scotia, which while not quite Vermont cold, still hits zero in the winter for weeks.
1995 F150 4x4 4.9L E4OD Mule / Plow Truck
Gone but not forgotten: 1976 F250 4x4 300 six, NP435. Dana60/44HD 4.10 Traction Lok, EFI Exhaust, 240 Head

mutt
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Re: Motor Oil Question

Post #10 by mutt » Tue Jan 12, 2010 1:05 pm

ah, jees, first Luckyman ruins burgers for me now the highly reguarded empiricist Lazy JW roons 20/50 for me.
I buy it by the case for the 280z, the two old bikes, & the mighty Ekonokrates. Not in cold climates, but Im in San Diego now. I CAN say that running 20/50 hasnt caused any problems I ever been aware of, and its pretty thin hot.
Perhaps its useful to explain: on 10/30, or whatever, the first number is the viscosity at....32F? Or 0F?
the SECOND number is the viscosity at....212F? So- at 212F (or whatever) it dosnt flow like 50wt at ROOM temp, say, but 50Wt at 212F. Which is pretty thin.
A habit, but one Im willing to break, should someone explain why. My rigs are usually high milers. And old. The Girl wanted some more modern, which explaind the cursed '05 Passat in the driveway. Make it go away & leave a early Falcon in its place. Please. (In German, the P is silent, so its pronounced "ass hat") The bikes want it- roller bottom ends. heck, you can get straight 70 wt from Amalie for HD's & old Ducatis. Try kickin the brute cold, tho.
We all pick up ideas that have no basis in reality, thats for sure.

Lazy JW
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Re: Motor Oil Question

Post #11 by Lazy JW » Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:07 pm

mutt wrote:.... I CAN say that running 20/50 hasnt caused any problems I ever been aware of, and its pretty thin hot......

And you are correct, 20w-50 isn't a great deal thicker TO THE NAKED EYE at 212º F. Oil is properly measured in units called "Stokes", more usually known as "Centistokes" ( abbreviated as cSt) so named for George Stokes who devised this method of measuring kinematic viscosity.

Our old Ford engines were designed to run on oil that is about 10 cSt at OPERATING TEMPERATURE. Let's forget about the first number in the multi-grade oil rating and just talk about the second number for a bit. This is the number that most concerns us when the engine is warmed up; first, bear in mind that ALL oil viscosity specs are in a "range", so an oil at 212º may be on the low side of the spec and still be barely a 30w, and it could also be at the high side and still be "within spec".

30w oil at 212º can be plus or minus a couple of cSt and still be in spec (I didn't look up the exact number, but I'm telling a story here, not writing a thesis). If the oil temperature goes up enough to drop the cSt below the acceptable range, we may need to go to a 40w or even a 50w in order to maintain the desired 10 cSt at operating temps. In really cold weather the oil temperature may not EVER get up to the "ideal" 10 cSt range; in this case we would be better advised to switch to a 20w oil.

Unless we are pulling a 300 Six really hard for a LONG time in a VERY hot climate ( think Death Valley) it is unlikely that the oil temperature will ever get high enough to bring a 50w oil down to the "normal" operating range of 10 cSt. Pumping heavier oil than needed does no good and possibly some harm; it does require more energy (power) just to pump it.

Now let us look at the other number, the 5w, 10w, 15w, or 20w. This number is derived by measuring the cSt at a low temperature (32º?), and indicates how well (or poorly) the oil will pump before it warms up. Ideally, the oil would flow just as well as if it were already fully warmed up, but this simply doesn't happen so we have to do the best we can with what we have. Remember, there is NO OIL THIN ENOUGH AT COLD STARTUP! If our oil could be fully warmed up before starting, all would be wonderful.

What this lower number does NOT indicate is how well the oil will pump at REALLY low temps (below zero F etc.) This is the area where good synthetics REALLY outperform conventional oils; also at really high temps such as are encountered in some turbocharged applications.

Please do NOT put 5w-20 oil in your Harley, it won't like it :twisted:
Joe
"The White OX" 1974 F-350 300-6, Stock single exhaust, Carter YF, T-18A, Dana70 w/4.11, Flatbed dually w/dump bed. "Where no oxen are, the crib is clean, but much increase is by the strength of the ox" (Proverbs 14:4)
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