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300 in a model t

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chessterd5
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300 in a model t

Post #1 by chessterd5 » Sun Jan 27, 2013 11:51 am

hello. Great site! learning alot. First off I know nothing about 300 sixes except for what I've learned here & surfing web. I'd like to put one in my hot rod but don't know if it will work.I have a 1927 model t doctors coupe I've owned for a number of years. It has a locked up 302, I beleive an FMX, & an 8in. w/ 2.79 gears. I'd like to keep everything from the tranny back cause the chassis w/ suspension is already basicly set up.I may change the front axle though, different story. My basic questions are Will the 6 bolt up to the FMX? How often will I honestly see 5k rpm on the street? Will the 6 flywheel work w/ the starter? Will the torque this engine produces be useable on the street w/ the 2.79 gears & what about hiway? particularly if I want to run 31 10.50 tires? Can someone suggest a better combo.? Is this a good swap for me or should I get another SBF? All things being equal the 6 sounds like a better motor.Cause it's not getting a chevy regardless! thank you & any help would be appreciated.

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #2 by bubba22349 » Sun Jan 27, 2013 5:52 pm

Hi chessterd5, welcome to the site, built a 27 T Roadster long ago, so yours sounds like a fun project.

My basic questions are Will the 6 bolt up to the FMX?


Yes your good to go on that one, the 302 and 300 six share the same bell housing bolt pattern so that bell will bolt up.

Will the 6 flywheel work w/ the starter?


yes the same starter will bolt back together again just as long as the flywheel is same dia. or tooth count as your current 302 one, again your good to go.

Will the torque this engine produces be useable on the street w/ the 2.79 gears & what about hiway? particularly if I want to run 31 10.50 tires?


With such a light weight car I think you will be good in that department too 300 six has such great torque down low. If I remember right think FTF is using a 2.47 gear (9 inch) in one of his builds.

Can someone suggest a better combo.? Is this a good swap for me or should I get another SBF?


I guess it all depends on how much time you want to put into changing it and the type car it is IE full fender-ed or T bucket style etc. If you have enough room (length) in chassis between the firewall and radiator to fit the six. Or you are willing to mod the chassis and front engine mounts so there is the room than I think it could be a very good combo and everything from trans bell on back stays the same. If it's not whats in your plan for front end mods than might be better to get another 302 or 351 SBF V8
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #3 by Fordman75 » Sun Jan 27, 2013 6:32 pm

Why not? They make great hot rod engines.

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #4 by Asa » Sun Jan 27, 2013 9:10 pm

Wasn't the FMX a weak/bad transmission?

Considering that in stock trim a 300 makes more torque than a 302 of the same year, I wouldn't put a transmission with a bad reputation behind the I6.
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #5 by Fordman75 » Sun Jan 27, 2013 9:42 pm

Asa wrote:Wasn't the FMX a weak/bad transmission?

Considering that in stock trim a 300 makes more torque than a 302 of the same year, I wouldn't put a transmission with a bad reputation behind the I6.


I don't remember any specific issues with the FMX. All I seem to remember is a cast iron case with aluminum bell housing and tail shaft housing.


That transmission came stock behind bigger engines then a 302. If they survived behind 351C's and 351W's it should be fine, as long as it's in good shape. A C4 would be a better choice in a light car. But if it's in good shape why change it.
Ted

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #6 by Asa » Sun Jan 27, 2013 11:24 pm

Fordman75 wrote:I don't remember any specific issues with the FMX. All I seem to remember is a cast iron case with aluminum bell housing and tail shaft housing.

Maybe I just remember that it was a relatively short run before the AOD, so it's harder to find upgrade parts?
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #7 by BIG 6 farmer » Mon Jan 28, 2013 8:01 pm

Gota Model T as yard art (for now). Was thinkin bout it with a 300 six. If your still using hood tin, & have Rad. in stock position. I think the 300 is too long? The FMX Cruise-O-Matic, was not a weak Trans. (if i remember right?) just funky. They put them behind Big Blocks, before the C6 came out. The AOD was born off the FMX. A 300 six would be too cool in a T Bucket.
83 F 150 SB 4x4 300 six NP 4speed - - 1950 IHC L162 (1&1/2 ton?) - 87 & 88 T-Bird Turbo Coupes - 2000 Triumph Tiger , 76 Honda GL 1000 , & other toys and parts (& junk) -

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #8 by 80broncoman » Mon Jan 28, 2013 9:47 pm

Asa wrote:Wasn't the FMX a weak/bad transmission?

Considering that in stock trim a 300 makes more torque than a 302 of the same year, I wouldn't put a transmission with a bad reputation behind the I6.


Not weak at all. Just a older/different design. IIRC they were used in ford powered checker cabs.
They had a cast Iron center section, and when you pulled the pan off of them there were a lot of hyd hard lines running all over the place.

I like the 300 in a model T . Just hope you have room for it.
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #9 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Tue Jan 29, 2013 10:22 am

I had a FMX in a 351 powered Torino station wagon. It was tuned for very smooth shifts and as such I ended up glazing over the clutch discs in it from pulling my car trailer with it. As others have said it is a rather beefy, bulky, heavy and complex transmission but it should give you no problems. I recommend a shift kit to firm up the shifts and a trans cooler.

The answer to your question about when will you reach 5000 RPM is never. The FMX will shift automatically at about 4100. Yes, my roadster pickup uses 2.47 gears with a 4000 stall speed converter. I think a gear ratio around 3.25 would be a better choice but the 300 will have no problem twirlling that 2.79 gear.
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #10 by 65fback » Tue Jan 29, 2013 3:20 pm

My parents' '69 torino convertible has an FMX behind the 351W 4bbl. That's all stock and was still good at 70k miles plus (until the car got parked).
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #11 by Nashtooth » Tue Jan 29, 2013 9:26 pm

And then you carjacked the convertible that yearned to be free...right?

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #12 by chessterd5 » Tue Jan 29, 2013 11:18 pm

hello, Thank you for all the responces. All good information.I,m not sure if I can respond to everyone personally but I,ll do my best. I,m a horrible typer, 2 fingers tops. Haven't figured out qoutes yet. But to the car, 1st: it does have the big bell &164T flywheel I know it's not the 153T. I believe it's an FMX I don"t know. IT has a bolt to case bell, a pan fill dipstick, but a magnet doesn't "stick" to the case real well.It has about 5k miles since stock rebuild. The # on the servo?cover; pass. side in front of vacum modulator is CBZP-7DO27-A. There is a large 16 on top of case. the starter isa big nose cone, small case for a V8 1984 cougar.A parts buddy of mine found it to fit model t frame (28 inches wide). I boxed the T frame w/ 1/4" plate. The 6 should fit I think,cause when I got it I wanted tolower the body but not chop it or Z the frame. So I went to a spring behind axle in front & spring in front on the rear with homemade batwings& perches & a 2in. rake. this lengthened the wheel base to about 110-112 in. I don't remember. THen I moved the body back 6 in. on the frame to line the Wheel wells up w/ the wheels, that way I didn't have to cut the stock firewall except for trans clearance. Ther are no front fenders or hood just grille & rad. I don"t mind making new motor mounts & the radiator is going in the trunk w/ elec. fan. Just for fun I channeled the front of the body the width of the frame & left the back on top of the crossmember. I'm gonna bob the rear fenders Like a 60's east coast rod. I'm getting together my questions on the 6 thanks 4 the help everyone!

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #13 by Fordman75 » Wed Jan 30, 2013 12:13 am

It's been at least a decade since I owned a FMX but I don't think they had a pan fill dip stick. The only pan fill I'm aware of is on the C4's. I might be wrong, I'm far from an expert on the FMX ( and my memory sucks! ) . The C4 is a good transmission with a huge aftermarket. They can be built to handle just about anything and are pretty light when compared to a C6, FMX or AOD.

Your T sounds like a cool project. You should post some pics!!
Ted

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #14 by StrangeRanger » Wed Jan 30, 2013 8:41 am

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #15 by Asa » Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:24 am

Fordman75 wrote:Your T sounds like a cool project. You should post some pics!!

I agree.
And if you need any help doing so, please email me and I'll be glad to help you out.

My email is Evan . Fountain @ gmail . com
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #16 by woodbutcher » Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:45 pm

:hmmm: Hi Asa and all.IIRC The C4 and C6 were between the FMX and the AOD.I Like the idea of a 300 I6 in a Model T.Sounds like BUNCH of fun.What would REALLY be fun would be to turbo and FI the "T".
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #17 by StrangeRanger » Thu Jan 31, 2013 5:36 am

The C4 was introduced in 1964. C is the Ford code for the 1960s hence "C4". Similarly the C6 was introduced in '66. The FMX, which was based on the old Ford-O-Matic, was introduced in 1968. The AOD was a modification of the FMX which added an OD was introduced in '80 and converted to electronic control in '92 as the AOD-E
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #18 by woodbutcher » Thu Jan 31, 2013 10:51 am

:D Hi SR.Thanks for that info.Thought that the FMX was an older tranny.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #19 by chessterd5 » Fri Feb 01, 2013 9:06 pm

Hello, The pic's really helped StrangeRanger. I'm a dummy it's a c4 truck tranny 1976-77. Thanx Asa i would need help but, it"s in pieces now & honestly it's ruf. turbo & FI might be too much skill for me. I'm thinking carbed 300 w/ 240 head, port & polish w/ 352 FE pistons if I read that right. Question:1) If the stock cam lift is .400 & FTF said the stock port flow flattens out at .400 does that mean any cam, carb, & exhaust combo is secondary to getting the head to "breathe"? 2) If I use TRW forged piston L2083NF 1.825 975 .080 dish 352 FE is there anythingelse I need to do to them besides turn down tops .050? 3) Does the 30 degree by 0.60 backcut applie to both valves or just intake? 4) In the FAQ under post " Level Based Performance I think I want to be about level III. What kind of hp. & ftlbs. r we talking here? how does it change w/ EFI exhaust (w/ x-pipe) & the 2.79 gears? I built a 283 chevy once (327 crank 30 over w/ 4.11's & TH350) I did not like the high rpm's on freeway. 5) Should I advance the cam 4 degrees on a bigger than stock cam or is that only nessesary on the stock one? I'm sorry for asking so many questions, I'm just trying to figure it out. thank you all.

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #20 by BIG 6 farmer » Sat Feb 02, 2013 12:27 am

Cool to see your pushing ahead with a 6 Banger! A 240 cyl. head good. Pocket porting, & extra work on Ex. port roofs. Might look into 351 w pistons. Would be lighter, & a ton of companys make them. Not sure on the Machine work to fit? I think in such a light car, you could go a lot more than a stock camshaft. 1000-5000 rpm range? A lot of them out there. Besides, maybe you want a little lope to it? Most of those cams have a .425-.450 lift. If this was mine? A Clifford Dual carb. intake, with 2 small/matched, Ford 2V carbs. ( Nothing says old school Hot Rot like extra carbs.) Fuel Inj. Ex. manifolds, maybe using 2 fronts, or 2 rears would look cool. Not sure if or can be done? ( have to look @ parts i got) On your car, run any cam timed straight up. Your going to have gobs of extra torque anyway, with not much car to push. Even with your Hyw. 2.79 gears.
83 F 150 SB 4x4 300 six NP 4speed - - 1950 IHC L162 (1&1/2 ton?) - 87 & 88 T-Bird Turbo Coupes - 2000 Triumph Tiger , 76 Honda GL 1000 , & other toys and parts (& junk) -

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #21 by StrangeRanger » Sat Feb 02, 2013 5:55 am

1) There are some performance gains that can be had without doing any head work but significantly more can be had with a port and polish

2) Don't waste money on forged pistons. Hypereutectics are cheaper and better for a street build.

3) Do not back-cut the exhaust valves. They need the extra mass for cooling.

4) Because of your very light weight you can run a hotter cam that gives up a little low RPM performance but the small gears will offset that. Call up the cam grinder of your choice and talk with their techies about your build.

5) follow the cam manufacturer's recommendations
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #22 by BIG 6 farmer » Sat Feb 02, 2013 10:38 am

X2 on the Hyper. cast pistons. They will go right in. They have more than proven them selves to hold up in a High Performance engine. More than a few Companies make them for a 300 six, Mine are Perfect Circle. As far as any port grinding, i dont think much about it cause i do my own. If you have to pay to have it done, can get pricey. If ya wanna try your hand @ it. Get a cheap Die Grinder, (air or electric) some good die cutter bits. Get an old junk Chevy head to practice on. Good lights, eye protection & a fan blowing crap away from you. It is filthy work, but i enjoy it. There is a lot of info. & pictures of good port grinding. Might be a sticky on it?
83 F 150 SB 4x4 300 six NP 4speed - - 1950 IHC L162 (1&1/2 ton?) - 87 & 88 T-Bird Turbo Coupes - 2000 Triumph Tiger , 76 Honda GL 1000 , & other toys and parts (& junk) -

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #23 by chessterd5 » Sun Feb 17, 2013 11:23 pm

hello, project: model T. E.verythings R.uste D. is on it's way. I cut off the SBF V8 motor mounts the other day as well as some other work on the frame. I'm in the process of building a floor for the body now that I've channeled it. Out with the plyboard in with the steel! Well, I measured the engine bay & there is 35" at the bottom of the firewall to the front of the framerail.I guess I need a junk 300 for mock up & find out. I have a question about ignition? On the 302 I was running points (yes, when dinosuars roamed the earth & cavemen fixed amc pacers with Plumb handtools). I would like to upgrade but I don't know wich way to go. Fantasy says run a magneto! But since I'll need a starter, altenater, & battery anyway thats not really practical. Wich leaves a duraspark II or a Ford DUI. The DUI was expensive but only needed one 12 volt wire hook up.The duraspark sounds cheaper & junkyard ready but what"s bothering me is I won't have the wiring harness in the dash that everything plugs into.Will I just have to get the entire harness, chase the wires &figure it out or does someone have a better way?

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #24 by BIG 6 farmer » Mon Feb 18, 2013 12:49 am

COOL ! You know your going to have to post some pictures. On your ignition system. Since you will have your Engine out in the open? In my opinion, a modern looking Dist. would look all wrong for your build. A smaller, older looking Dist. cap will give you that look. I like a Duraspark Dist. hooked to a GM HEI Module. I think if you go early enuff, (75-79?) you get the small cap. An other way, go with a point style Dist. Convert it to Electronic (Pertronixs), but Ford made 2? different point style Dist. The conversion is only made for the one. OR, keep the points & hook them to an Elect. Ign. Module. I have done this many times, on older stuff.(had a stash of old stock Hurst ign. boxes) Your points last a lot longer,& its a slick way to get elect. Ign. Im sure you can use an inexspensive GM HEI 4pin Module for this. Go on www. gofastforless, every thing you need to know there on cross breeding Ignition systems. Its easier than you think! :nod:
83 F 150 SB 4x4 300 six NP 4speed - - 1950 IHC L162 (1&1/2 ton?) - 87 & 88 T-Bird Turbo Coupes - 2000 Triumph Tiger , 76 Honda GL 1000 , & other toys and parts (& junk) -

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #25 by chico71 » Mon Feb 18, 2013 2:26 pm

amen to that! while i am personally a big fan of the DSII, i agree with the above post. the small distributor would "look right". i was lucky and had an "electron guru" help me hook mine up, because contrary to popular belief, they are not all "plug and play." however, i understood the part where he said, "you've got to have power to the ignition circuit, and power to the coil." that was it. he had never even heard of such a changeover before.

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #26 by chessterd5 » Thu Mar 07, 2013 6:37 pm

Help, I don't know what I'm doing. I'm going to go look at a 300 tommorrow but, I don't :shock: know enough to identify a block or head as this or that. What's bothering me is it's listed as a later 4.9 300 but he says he's got the carb & fuel pump? In the pictures it "looks good" but nothings on it (intake,exhaust,dist. he says he has everything for the engine just disassembled.good price,& even if I have to buy another long block I can use the manifolds, carb , dist., timing& valve cover etc.) I can't tell from the picture if the fuel pump boss is actually milled out or not. it has an earlier style valve cover, but the only definitive thing I can see is that it has 14 bolts in the head for the intake & exhaust manifolds. Is that enough to identify it as a carbed head?

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #27 by Fordman75 » Thu Mar 07, 2013 7:40 pm

Are you looking for an engine you can run as is or one to build? If you don't plan to rebuild it you need to find one that is complete and you can hear run. If you are looking for one to rebuild you are still better off buying a runner. If you can't hear it run you are taking a gamble.

As far as IDing the engine's age here you go.

I think they started calling them 4.9L in 1980.

A carbed head will have 13 manifold bolts, the EFI will have 15. Are you sure you didn't count a dowl pin hole as a bolt hole?


Check the engineering/casting # on the passenger side of the block down by the starter. It will start with something like C5TE-, D5TE, E1TE, E7TE, etc. The First letter is the decade, C=60's, D=70's, E=80's F=90's. The # is the first year of that version of the part. The T is for a Truck. And the Engine stands for engine parts. This will give you a general idea about the age of the block.

But for an exact age you need to check out the date code ( usually right after the casting # ) . The date code will be a three or four number/letter combo. The first # is the year, The second digit is a letter, that is the month ( A-M, no i ) . Then the third and possibly forth # will be the day.

If it's a fuel injected 4.9L the block casting # will read E7TE or newer.

The head casting # is at the bottom front edge of the head. With the head on the engine it's easiest to read with a small mirror.


The EFI engine will have the fuel pump boss but it won't be open.
Ted

54 Ford F100/F150 4x4
300, NP435 4spd, NP205 transfercase

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #28 by chessterd5 » Sat Mar 09, 2013 3:32 pm

I bought it, I own a complete 300 engine now. The block # is D5 something. I'll write down all the #'s later.( It is a carbed head & there are 13 manifold bolts. I did count a dowel pin by mistake.) Carb is rebuilt, fairly new.both intake & exhaust manifolds plus a set of EFI exhaust. A DSII w/ module,coil,& wiring. some extra stuff. Will still need some small stuff. I,m amazed at how light it is.That engine weighs nothing orso it seems. I have a couple of questions though... 1) Is the charging circuit for my small block 302 the same as for the straight six? Are the external voltage regulators the same? 2) Can anyone reccomend a good rebuild book? I need to know the torque specs for main bolts, rod bolts, head bolts, & crank& cam end play, side clearances etc? Does the cam "walk" alot or is that a small block chevy thing? 3) Does anyone make an engine bolt kit for this engine? Thank you & I really appreciate everyones help. Pictures coming soon.

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #29 by StrangeRanger » Sat Mar 09, 2013 5:00 pm

2) all the specs are in a Ford shop Manual available for big $$ from Helm or frequently on CD at Evilbay for a whole lot less.

3)try http://headbolts.com/ford-240-300-inlin ... bolts.html
1996 F-150 (tow missile)
1993 Mustang 5.0 (hot rod and auto-x monster)
1982 Tiga Formula Ford (SCCA racecar)
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #30 by bubba22349 » Sat Mar 09, 2013 5:20 pm

You should be able to reuse your 302 Alt. uses same mounting bolt locations, wire routing, etc. and if your 300 mounts it on same side as the 302 did. But in a worse case scenario you may just need to lengthen the wires, replace with six cylinder Alt. loom, or make some new ones. You may also need to change the front pulley depends on the dia, and or if you need the double pulley system.
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I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #31 by BIG 6 farmer » Sat Mar 09, 2013 5:50 pm

Haynes Manuals very good. Almost always a re-print off a Factory Manual. Just get one for a 70s-80s Ford Light Truck, be less than $20. D5 on your block means its a 1975 casting. That would mean its out of a 75-86 Truck.(could be other casting# for those years too) If both have external voltage Regulators, all should be same? Yes Cam walk is a Chevy thing. Fords use a thrust washer on camshaft. Happy for ya, sounds like you scored well. :thumbup: :D
83 F 150 SB 4x4 300 six NP 4speed - - 1950 IHC L162 (1&1/2 ton?) - 87 & 88 T-Bird Turbo Coupes - 2000 Triumph Tiger , 76 Honda GL 1000 , & other toys and parts (& junk) -

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #32 by chessterd5 » Wed Mar 13, 2013 10:03 pm

Hello everyone. here's the casting #'s 1) Intake: D7TE9425J7A 2) EXHAUST: D7TE can't read rest. 3) ENGINE BLOCK : D5TE-6015-AA 4) HEAD: D7TE 5) STEEL TIMING GEARS: D7TE 6) RODS : C8TE & 7) CRANK: only 2 markings a stamped 14 on the first counterwieght & a stamped 1NABC on the edge of a center counterwieght close to the thrust bearing. Any I>D> help would be appreciated. thank you.

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #33 by BIG 6 farmer » Wed Mar 13, 2013 11:38 pm

Sounds like you got a 77 or later 300 Truck Engine. To read Ford part #s, The first letter is the decade D= 70s, 7= 1977. Second letter is Body type, T= Truck. The rest describe what it is, Plant that made it & other info. You gonna owe us some pictures real soon :D
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #34 by bubba22349 » Wed Mar 13, 2013 11:52 pm

1977 is probably close enough for locating / ordering parts. but If you want the exact year you need to find the casting date code for the block and head these tell you year, month, and day part was cast. Look for a little tag in casting it will have a number a letter and 2 or 3 more numbers.
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I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #35 by crash-harris » Sun Mar 17, 2013 12:30 pm

StrangeRanger wrote:2) all the specs are in a Ford shop Manual available for big $$ from Helm or frequently on CD at Evilbay for a whole lot less.

3)try http://headbolts.com/ford-240-300-inlin ... bolts.html



Or spring for the head stud kit :beer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/390552956045?ss ... 1436.l2649
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #36 by chessterd5 » Tue Apr 16, 2013 12:18 am

Hello everyone, small update. I haven't said much lately cause it hasn't been Ford 6 related. I'm still rebuilding the floor after the channel. I got a new front axle out of an '88 cherokee wich solved 3 major problems: 1) it's not bent 2) it's the right track width 48" upper ball joint to ball joint. & 3) i got disc brakes now. I bought some steel square tubing to make some doors. I can't afford the real thing. Never done it before, it will either turn out or it won't. I may still have to remove the stock firewall to set the 300 back far enough. But, I just keep telling myself it will help with wieght transfer :D thanks, guys.

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #37 by chessterd5 » Mon Apr 29, 2013 6:57 pm


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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #38 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon Apr 29, 2013 7:25 pm

Lots of potential there. I think I'd whack the top and channel it about four inches more than the height of the frame.
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #39 by BIG 6 farmer » Wed May 01, 2013 3:14 pm

X2 on a chop & channel :nod:
83 F 150 SB 4x4 300 six NP 4speed - - 1950 IHC L162 (1&1/2 ton?) - 87 & 88 T-Bird Turbo Coupes - 2000 Triumph Tiger , 76 Honda GL 1000 , & other toys and parts (& junk) -

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #40 by chessterd5 » Mon May 06, 2013 12:08 am

hello everyone, big six is in. Hopefully pictures tomorrow.

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #41 by Fordman75 » Mon May 06, 2013 12:22 am

Cool! Can't wait to see them!! :thumbup:
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #42 by chessterd5 » Tue May 07, 2013 11:15 pm


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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #43 by 80broncoman » Wed May 08, 2013 11:48 pm

I like the use of the stock radius arms. Does that mean it has twin I beam suspension?
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #44 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Thu May 09, 2013 8:29 am

Looking good. What kind of steering are you going to use? If you are using a cross steer (Vega type) a rear sump oil pan may work better. Be sure to leave enough room for radiator / fan. A '64 - '66 Mustang radiator is small and can be trimed to fit inside an early grill shell.
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #45 by chessterd5 » Fri May 10, 2013 12:30 am

Hello everyone, I hope you like the pictures. It's still all in the mock up stage. Thank you Broncoman for the compliment on the stock Ford radius arms. The fronts are off a 1970 1/2 Ton & the backs are also stock Ford, they are actually front 4x4 arms off a 1969 Bronco.I'm hoping they'll act like ladder bars. Thanks FTF, I'm going to reuse the steering box I have. Its from a 1970 postal jeep. The axle is a cross steer but it's in front of the axle so I'll have to do some engineering to hook the axle to the box to the steering column but I've got an idea so we'll see. As for the fan &radiator it's going in the trunk. I'm going to run coolant tubes from the radiator back to the motor. If I move the engine any further back I'll have to change the tranny crossmember, recut the driveshaft, & have to make a firewall from scratch. As of now I was able to reinstall the stock firewall backwards wich gives me enough engine clearance. I've still got alot of work ahead of me. thanks everyone for your help.

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #46 by woodbutcher » Fri May 10, 2013 2:22 am

:beer: Looking real good.
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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #47 by chessterd5 » Sun May 12, 2013 8:45 pm

Thanks Woodbutcher. I appreciate it. On a different note, it looks like I do need to move the engine up & back to have it sit right. I guess I was just intimidated by the extra work, time, & money but, I think I'll be happier in the long run. And, the time & expence will be worth it compared to just taking shortcuts. Ya'll are probably right, I need to use the vega box & put the radiator up front where it belongs. thanks everyone, this is a great site!

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #48 by chessterd5 » Sun May 19, 2013 5:51 pm

Hi everyone, I have a couple of stupid questions. I've been moving the engine & tranny back in the chassis & I'm trying to make sure it's sitting right. I put a small level on the bellhouseing behind the block & I'm straight side to side. But I don't know about front to back ? iS THIS ENGINE PUT IN STRAIGHT, PARALELL ACROSS THE VALVE COVER OR IS IT JACKED UP IN THE FRONT ANGLED TOWARD THE BACK? The reason why I'm asking is when I put it in straight the top of the carb isn"t level but, when I lvel the carb it looks way to angled in front. I want to make sure the carb is positioned correctly. It's the stock intake & 1 barrel carter that's in the pictures. 2ND) When I got this engine it was disassembled & the previous owner lost 2 of the head bolts. So I went & bought 2 more head bolts. They are exactly like the original ones I have except the capscrew heads are 5/8" instead of 11/16" is this gonna really matter? Did Ford change the head size on head bolts between like the carbed engines & the EFI ? 3RD) I don"t have two of the three studs that bolt the bottom of the intake to the top of the exaust manifold where the heat chamber is under the carburater. Can I use allthread &nuts or can I get new ones? thanks for the help!

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #49 by bubba22349 » Sun May 19, 2013 7:19 pm

I think they are a 3 degree tilt to the rear, if you level the carbs base on intake side to side and back to front should be right.
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: 300 in a model t

Post #50 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon May 20, 2013 2:24 pm

HINT: Instead of using a Vega box find a Saginaw 525 series box. These were used in GM cars like Chevelles. But some AMC cars also used them. When I went shopping for one in the junkyard I asked 'how much for the manual Chevelle box?'

"$75."

'How much for the AMC box?'

"$15."

Same basic box, but Chevelle was deemed to be 'in demand'.
FORD 300 INLINE SIX - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING

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