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300 hop up

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Angelking
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300 hop up

Post #1 by Angelking » Wed Jan 18, 2017 5:35 am

I have this 300 engine I am putting into a streetrod or more precisely, a replica '30's single seat dirt track racer that is for the street.

The engine was supposedly running when pulled out of the truck it was in. The "numbers" start with "E1" so I assume this is an early '80's engine. I was told it came out of a Bronco (I know) but I have no idea. I was thinking of just leaving it stock, put in the car and see what happens. I think I will change my plans and rebuild it with some mild performance gains. Is there a particular company that you guys use for parts for these engines? I will be happy to do a build thread here. I know it will have a homemade header 6 into 1, I have several Ford/Holley "59" carbs that I will pick the best three of I will use with probably a homemade manifold. Was thinking of either just honing the cylinders or boring next size up. . The engine does not have a distributor. I am wanting to find one that uses points instead of electronic. I have a Chopper I built with an S&S Panhead that came electronic and the module failed one day. I replaced it with points and never looked back. It also does not have a fuel pump or alternator......

I did pull the water pump off and noticed inside the head it is a bit rusty. Appears to be a rusty film instead of established rust.

I am going to start pulling it apart today and will take pics every step of the way. Better decisions I think can be made once it is apart and see what it needs.

Sorry for the rambling.......

SM

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #2 by pmuller9 » Wed Jan 18, 2017 2:33 pm

SI valves are one of the few suppliers (if not the only) of Ford 300 six valves.
The 4.880" long SBC valves can also be used with the stud mount rocker arms. The Ford 300 carburetor head valves are 4.810" long.

Most of the cam supplier have 300 six cams.
A lot of members have used Comp cams.
I prefer Crower for an off the shelf or custom cam.
The cam choice depends on what you want to do?

You do not want to use the regular cast piston as they have a tendency to break off skirt pieces into the oil pan.
If you must go the inexpensive route then use a hypereutectic cast piston.
The problem is the "off the shelf" 300 pistons are set up for low compression with the 300 carburetor head.
You would really like to have a 9:1 compression ratio if you are running pump gas and moderate cam.
You can get close to that using a 240 head or the EFI head.

The other route is to use a custom piston from Autotec for around $500 and stay with the 300 carb head.
Last edited by pmuller9 on Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:23 pm, edited 2 times in total.

pmuller9
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Re: 300 hop up

Post #3 by pmuller9 » Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:03 pm

So what are the rules concerning the engine and type of fuel?
With the engine at a slant it would look absolutely "Bad-Ass" with a set of stacks and mechanical fuel injection.

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #4 by bubba22349 » Wed Jan 18, 2017 8:38 pm

If you are really set on a points type ignistion than look for a 1968 (also a 1967 if it was for California Emssions) to about a 1974 point Distributor will at least have a decent advance system. That said a stock later electronic Distribitor the DuraSpark II 1976 to about 1983 is pretty much bullet proof. Good luck :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

Angelking
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Re: 300 hop up

Post #5 by Angelking » Thu Jan 19, 2017 5:55 am

bubba22349 wrote:If you are really set on a points type ignistion than look for a 1968 (also a 1967 if it was for California Emssions) to about a 1974 point Distributor will at least have a decent advance system. That said a stock later electronic Distribitor the DuraSpark II 1976 to about 1983 is pretty much bullet proof. Good luck :nod:


Just want to make sure I have this straight so I don't get the wrong thing for the millionth time. As I understand it, the early 240 and 300 were basically the same except for the stroke. So the two shared the same points distributor? So if I found a single or dual points distributor from 1968 to 1974 it would fit the the later model 300( mine is a 1981)


Thanks

Scott

Angelking
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Re: 300 hop up

Post #6 by Angelking » Thu Jan 19, 2017 5:58 am

pmuller9 wrote:So what are the rules concerning the engine and type of fuel?
With the engine at a slant it would look absolutely "Bad-Ass" with a set of stacks and mechanical fuel injection.


LOL.... the rules are whatever I want them to be.


SM

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #7 by Angelking » Thu Jan 19, 2017 6:24 am

pmuller9 wrote:SI valves are one of the few suppliers (if not the only) of Ford 300 six valves.
The 4.880" long SBC valves can also be used with the stud mount rocker arms. The Ford 300 carburetor head valves are 4.810" long.

Most of the cam supplier have 300 six cams.
A lot of members have used Comp cams.
I prefer Crower for an off the shelf or custom cam.
The cam choice depends on what you want to do?

You do not want to use the regular cast piston as they have a tendency to break off skirt pieces into the oil pan.
If you must go the inexpensive route then use a hypereutectic cast piston.
The problem is the "off the shelf" 300 pistons are set up for low compression with the 300 carburetor head.
You would really like to have a 9:1 compression ratio if you are running pump gas and moderate cam.
You can get close to that using a 240 head or the EFI head.

The other route is to use a custom piston from Autotec for around $500 and stay with the 300 carb head.


I have no idea how many miles are on this engine. It seems to be in pretty good shape from what I have seen so far. I did notice one head bolt (head) was a different size from the others, so the head has been off at some point. There is a tremendous amount of oil buildup, more than I have ever seen. Have pulled all the valves and non are burnt. There was some oil on top of the number 4 piston. Pulling the crank, rods and pistons today. I am thinking if the rest of engine looks good, I may just have the head and block tanked, check the bores for any issues and just do a basic rebuild.

I am thinking of:
new rings
Cylinder honing or boring if needed...
new valve guides and seal
new valve springs and keepers
new main and cam bearings
new cam and lifters (stock)
new timing gears if needed
new water pump, fuel pump, distributor(points if I can find)
homemade header
intake manifold for three Ford/Holley 59's.

If anyone thinks of anything else I should need or should do, please let me know...

This car is only going to way around 1700 lbs, if that much.

Do these look like the original pistons? They are low compression....
Image


Image


Image

Thanks

Scott

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #8 by Angelking » Thu Jan 19, 2017 11:29 am

Can someone tell quickly what this Allen head bolt is for? I am ready to take this block to the machine shop this afternoon and have removed everything but this tight as *&^*&^* bolt. If it is not important will just leave it.... It is on the right side(passenger side) just above the numbers....

Thanks

Sm

Image

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #9 by bubba22349 » Thu Jan 19, 2017 11:29 am

Angelking wrote:
bubba22349 wrote:If you are really set on a points type ignistion than look for a 1968 (also a 1967 if it was for California Emssions) to about a 1974 point Distributor will at least have a decent advance system. That said a stock later electronic Distribitor the DuraSpark II 1976 to about 1983 is pretty much bullet proof. Good luck :nod:


Just want to make sure I have this straight so I don't get the wrong thing for the millionth time. As I understand it, the early 240 and 300 were basically the same except for the stroke. So the two shared the same points distributor? So if I found a single or dual points distributor from 1968 to 1974 it would fit the the later model 300( mine is a 1981)s


Thanks

Scott


Yes basically the 240 and 300 short blocks are the same except for the stroke i.e. Different crank, rods, and pistions. The 240 heads are also different with a smaller combustion chamber using a 240 head on a 300 short block will raise the compression about .4 to .5 of a point. Yes early versions of the both engines shared the same point Distribitors but they only had single points, also you don't want to use a real early Distribitor from 1965 to 67 engines these are the old Load-O-Matic type that don't have centrivical advance. If you can find an aftermarket point Distribitor like an Accel or Mallory it might have duel points. Good luck :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #10 by pmuller9 » Thu Jan 19, 2017 1:04 pm

The allen head plug on the passenger side just above the lettering is to drain the water jackets. It can stay in.
You should be able to see or feel the back side of it once you remove the freeze plugs.

I have to ask: If you are going to replace the cam, why not go a little larger profile than stock?

Paul

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #11 by pmuller9 » Thu Jan 19, 2017 3:22 pm

Those are the stock 1981 pistons. The Silvolite 1170 is the replacement piston.
The round dish has about an 18cc volume and the pistons sit about .040" in the hole at TDC.
With a .039" thick head gasket and a slight overbore on the piston size the compression ratio should be around 8.5
Last edited by pmuller9 on Thu Jan 19, 2017 10:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #12 by Angelking » Thu Jan 19, 2017 5:34 pm

Thanks everyone for all your input. I have the block and head at the machine shop now getting tanked and will make final decisions once that is completed so I can measure everything and see what needs replacing....


SM

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #13 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Thu Jan 19, 2017 8:41 pm

240 / 300s never had steel shim head gaskets from the factory. 144, 170, 200, 250 do.
FORD 300 INLINE SIX - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #14 by pmuller9 » Thu Jan 19, 2017 10:46 pm

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:240 / 300s never had steel shim head gaskets from the factory. 144, 170, 200, 250 do.

Thanks FTF. I fixed my post
I could have sworn that I pulled one from a 300 after removing the head.
Oh well.

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #15 by Angelking » Fri Feb 03, 2017 12:26 pm

Got my block back from the machine shop today. Is there a book anyone could recommend here
on a total rebuild of a 300 ....

Thx

SM

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #16 by pmuller9 » Fri Feb 03, 2017 1:22 pm

A service manual will give you the specs and procedures for inspection and rebuild.
Specs start in section 8-01
http://www.pittauto.com/customer/piauel ... CSG649.pdf

Are you using the original pistons or does the cylinders need to be bored?

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #17 by Angelking » Fri Feb 03, 2017 1:24 pm

pmuller9 wrote:A service manual will give you the specs and procedures for inspection and rebuild.
http://www.pittauto.com/customer/piauel ... CSG649.pdf

Are you using the original pistons or does the cylinders need to be bored?


Thank you for the link!

The cylinders were bored 030 over. I have 030 over pistons.....

SM

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #18 by pmuller9 » Fri Feb 03, 2017 2:44 pm

Just to add;
Even on a stock rebuild it is a good plan to replace the old rod bolts with new preferably ARP bolts and resize the big end bore back to round.

When you replace the cam don't forget the spacer inside the thrust plate between the cam gear and the cam.
If forgotten the cam will bind on the thrust plate when the cam gear is installed.

Are you still going to use a new stock cam?
Which pistons did you get?

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #19 by Angelking » Fri Feb 03, 2017 4:01 pm

pmuller9 wrote:Just to add;
Even on a stock rebuild it is a good plan to replace the old rod bolts with new preferably ARP bolts and resize the big end bore back to round.

When you replace the cam don't forget the spacer inside the thrust plate between the cam gear and the cam.
If forgotten the cam will bind on the thrust plate when the cam gear is installed.

Are you still going to use a new stock cam?
Which pistons did you get?


I have new rod bolts..... Are you talking about resizing the big end of the rods?

These pistons:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-H519P30

The cam is no good. Will go to a little hotter grind. Haven't really looked at it...

Scott

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #20 by pmuller9 » Fri Feb 03, 2017 5:31 pm

Angelking wrote:I have new rod bolts..... Are you talking about resizing the big end of the rods?
These pistons:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-H519P30

The cam is no good. Will go to a little hotter grind. Haven't really looked at it...
Scott

Yes
New aftermarket rod bolts like ARP have a higher clamping force than stock and the big end can go out of round.
The big end may also be out of round from the many years of service.

Here is an overview of most available cams for the 240/300 six.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=69462

Cams with .050" intake durations of 220* or less are relatively mild profiles for the 300 six.
If you are looking for a lopey or rough "Hot Rod" sounding idle, the cam will need a tight LSA with valve overlaps around 4 degree or more.

Since any of the hotter cams will require more spring pressure it is a good idea to replace the press-in stock rocker studs with screw-in studs that won't pull out.

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #21 by Angelking » Sat Feb 04, 2017 1:45 am

pmuller9 wrote:
Angelking wrote:I have new rod bolts..... Are you talking about resizing the big end of the rods?
These pistons:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-H519P30

The cam is no good. Will go to a little hotter grind. Haven't really looked at it...
Scott

Yes
New aftermarket rod bolts like ARP have a higher clamping force than stock and the big end can go out of round.
The big end may also be out of round from the many years of service.

Here is an overview of most available cams for the 240/300 six.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=69462

Cams with .050" intake durations of 220* or less are relatively mild profiles for the 300 six.
If you are looking for a lopey or rough "Hot Rod" sounding idle, the cam will need a tight LSA with valve overlaps around 4 degree or more.

Since any of the hotter cams will require more spring pressure it is a good idea to replace the press-in stock rocker studs with screw-in studs that won't pull out.


I will check into the rod issue with the machine shop. Thanks for the heads up. As far as the cam, I am not into top end speed, too old for that. I would like a lopey sound, but first and foremost I want excellent acceleration. This car will only weigh about 1500 - 1700 pds. I will certainly replace the press in studs with screw in. Is that something the machine shop needs to do? I have a tap and die set I used frequently in my chopper build.

Scott

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #22 by pmuller9 » Sat Feb 04, 2017 2:46 am

Angelking wrote:I will check into the rod issue with the machine shop. Thanks for the heads up. As far as the cam, I am not into top end speed, too old for that. I would like a lopey sound, but first and foremost I want excellent acceleration. This car will only weigh about 1500 - 1700 pds. I will certainly replace the press in studs with screw in. Is that something the machine shop needs to do? I have a tap and die set I used frequently in my chopper build.
Scott

In order to get the screw-in studs perfectly straight and parallel to each other, the drill and tap procedure needs to be done using a vertical mill where the head can be clamped down on the deck to maintain the same drill and tap angle between holes.
Drill the hole then remove the drill, install the tap in the chuck and tap the hole. Then move the deck and head to the next hole location and repeat.

Camshaft: Lots of mid range torque and lopey idle.

Since the engine is low compression and will have a long tube header you can do some creative cam profiling to work with it.
With low compression you want to have an early closing intake valve to make high cylinder pressure for good torque.
This normally moves the torque down in rpm and limits the upper end of the power band but in a case where there is good scavenging due to the header, the intake cycle can be started early during the valve overlap period and partially make up for the early closing intake point.

The result would be a cam with a 106* LSA installed with the intake centerline at 102* ATDC.

Example: 220*/220* .050" duration, 106 LSA, .450" valve lift. Looks like a big cam, right?
Now consider the stock cam 192*/192* .050" duration, 110 LSA, Intake center at 114* ATDC.

The stock cam's intake valve .050" closing point is 30* ABDC.
The 220* cam's intake valve closing point is 32* ABDC. Only a 2 degree difference.
The big difference is that the 220* cam has 36* more valve overlap and will take advantage of the scavenging from the long tube header.
Also the 8 degrees of overlap will give a lopey sounding idle which is the other feature we are looking for.
The cam will turn on around 2000 rpm and will make very strong midrange torque.

Crower ground a 280* adv. duration, 220* @ .050, .465" lift, 108 LSA for a member here.
Don't know if he has run the engine yet.
Crower would gladly grind one with a 106 LSA.

Paul
Last edited by pmuller9 on Sat Feb 04, 2017 10:41 am, edited 3 times in total.

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #23 by MechRick » Sat Feb 04, 2017 10:37 am

pmuller9 wrote:In order to get the screw-in studs perfectly straight and parallel to each other, the drill and tap procedure needs to be done using a vertical mill where the head can be clamped down on the deck to maintain the same drill and tap angle between holes.


I've always wondered at what kind of chore this procedure would be an a canted valve head, such as a Cleveland!

Do you think it could be done on a stout drill press?

pmuller9 wrote:Example: 220*/220* .050" duration, 106 LSA, .450" valve lift. Looks like a big cam, right?


pmuller9 wrote:The big difference is that the 220* cam has 36* more valve overlap and will take advantage of the scavenging from the long tube header.


I can verify that a 219@.050" cam (110 lobe center) will lope at idle with cast iron manifolds, but is much tamer with a long tube header.
1994 F150, 4.9L/ZF 5 speed, C-Vic police driveshaft
EFI head w/mild port work, 3 angle valve job
1996 long block, stock pistons, ARP rod bolts
Stock cam, aluminum cam gear
Hedman header, full mandrel bent duals, crossover, super turbos
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=73244
Bronco II with a 2.3L swap http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=72863
1988 F250 2x4, 460 ZF 5 speed.

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #24 by Angelking » Sat Feb 04, 2017 11:26 am

pmuller9 wrote:
Angelking wrote:I will check into the rod issue with the machine shop. Thanks for the heads up. As far as the cam, I am not into top end speed, too old for that. I would like a lopey sound, but first and foremost I want excellent acceleration. This car will only weigh about 1500 - 1700 pds. I will certainly replace the press in studs with screw in. Is that something the machine shop needs to do? I have a tap and die set I used frequently in my chopper build.
Scott

In order to get the screw-in studs perfectly straight and parallel to each other, the drill and tap procedure needs to be done using a vertical mill where the head can be clamped down on the deck to maintain the same drill and tap angle between holes.
Drill the hole then remove the drill, install the tap in the chuck and tap the hole. Then move the deck and head to the next hole location and repeat.

Camshaft: Lots of mid range torque and lopey idle.

Since the engine is low compression and will have a long tube header you can do some creative cam profiling to work with it.
With low compression you want to have an early closing intake valve to make high cylinder pressure for good torque.
This normally moves the torque down in rpm and limits the upper end of the power band but in a case where there is good scavenging due to the header, the intake cycle can be started early during the valve overlap period and partially make up for the early closing intake point.

The result would be a cam with a 106* LSA installed with the intake centerline at 102* ATDC.

Example: 220*/220* .050" duration, 106 LSA, .450" valve lift. Looks like a big cam, right?
Now consider the stock cam 192*/192* .050" duration, 110 LSA, Intake center at 114* ATDC.

The stock cam's intake valve .050" closing point is 30* ABDC.
The 220* cam's intake valve closing point is 32* ABDC. Only a 2 degree difference.
The big difference is that the 220* cam has 36* more valve overlap and will take advantage of the scavenging from the long tube header.
Also the 8 degrees of overlap will give a lopey sounding idle which is the other feature we are looking for.
The cam will turn on around 2000 rpm and will make very strong midrange torque.

Crower ground a 280* adv. duration, 220* @ .050, .465" lift, 108 LSA for a member here.
Don't know if he has run the engine yet.
Crower would gladly grind one with a 106 LSA.

Paul


Wow.... i have to study every sentence of this.......may take a while.....

Thank You

SM

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #25 by Angelking » Sun Feb 05, 2017 3:56 am

This may seem like an odd request, but does anyone make an intake that rises? I want to be able to make an exhaust that all six pipes come straight out of the engine and out the side. All six pipes will then join into one and go down the side of the car.
Thanks

AK

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #26 by pmuller9 » Sun Feb 05, 2017 4:52 am

The bottom half of the 300 EFI intake manifold makes a 90* turn upward.
You can make a plenum that attaches to the end for any combination of multiple carburetors.

Since the engine is at a slant you can cut the intake partially into the 90* turn for the attached plenum so the carbs sit straight up.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/393 ... intake.jpg

Won't the header pipes have to turn down slightly because of the engine slant?

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #27 by Angelking » Sun Feb 05, 2017 4:44 pm

pmuller9 wrote:The bottom half of the 300 EFI intake manifold makes a 90* turn upward.
You can make a plenum that attaches to the end for any combination of multiple carburetors.

Since the engine is at a slant you can cut the intake partially into the 90* turn for the attached plenum so the carbs sit straight up.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/393 ... intake.jpg

Won't the header pipes have to turn down slightly because of the engine slant?


My engine did not come with an intake or exhaust manifold, so I haven't even seen the stock ones yet. How much of a slant does it sit at? I thought it sat straight up...

Thanks

AK

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Re: 300 hop up

Post #28 by pmuller9 » Sun Feb 05, 2017 6:48 pm

Angelking wrote:
pmuller9 wrote:The bottom half of the 300 EFI intake manifold makes a 90* turn upward.
You can make a plenum that attaches to the end for any combination of multiple carburetors.

Since the engine is at a slant you can cut the intake partially into the 90* turn for the attached plenum so the carbs sit straight up.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/393 ... intake.jpg

Won't the header pipes have to turn down slightly because of the engine slant?


My engine did not come with an intake or exhaust manifold, so I haven't even seen the stock ones yet. How much of a slant does it sit at? I thought it sat straight up...

Thanks

AK


You are correct. The stock 300 carburetor intake manifold is a log style where the carb sits straight up and the log would be in the way of a straight on approach with an exhaust pipe. Here is what it looks like. There are 7 views to click on.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2318709926 ... noapp=true

However the bottom half of the EFI intake manifold (1987 - 1996) has runners that go straight out and curve upward leaving room for straight exhaust pipes in between the intake runners. You can also see pictures of them on the same Ebay site.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-1996-Ford- ... 1870992637

Here is what it looks like with a home made plenum attached for multiple carburetors.
Image

Angelking
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Re: 300 hop up

Post #29 by Angelking » Mon Feb 06, 2017 5:00 am

pmuller9 wrote:
Angelking wrote:
pmuller9 wrote:The bottom half of the 300 EFI intake manifold makes a 90* turn upward.
You can make a plenum that attaches to the end for any combination of multiple carburetors.

Since the engine is at a slant you can cut the intake partially into the 90* turn for the attached plenum so the carbs sit straight up.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/393 ... intake.jpg

Won't the header pipes have to turn down slightly because of the engine slant?


My engine did not come with an intake or exhaust manifold, so I haven't even seen the stock ones yet. How much of a slant does it sit at? I thought it sat straight up...

Thanks

AK


You are correct. The stock 300 carburetor intake manifold is a log style where the carb sits straight up and the log would be in the way of a straight on approach with an exhaust pipe. Here is what it looks like. There are 7 views to click on.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2318709926 ... noapp=true

However the bottom half of the EFI intake manifold (1987 - 1996) has runners that go straight out and curve upward leaving room for straight exhaust pipes in between the intake runners. You can also see pictures of them on the same Ebay site.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-1996-Ford- ... 1870992637

Here is what it looks like with a home made plenum attached for multiple carburetors.
Image


Well that is just awesome..... I will order one of the '87 - '96 manifolds today....

Thank you very much.....

SM

Angelking
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Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2016 8:46 am

Re: 300 hop up

Post #30 by Angelking » Tue Feb 07, 2017 5:22 pm

pmuller9 wrote:
Since the engine is at a slant


How many degrees does the engine slant? I never knew this...

SM

pmuller9
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Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:33 am
Location: Columbus, Indiana

Re: 300 hop up

Post #31 by pmuller9 » Tue Feb 07, 2017 6:02 pm

Angelking wrote:How many degrees does the engine slant? I never knew this...
SM

No No LOL
Stock engines sit straight up.

Aren't you going to slant the engine in the Sprint Car?

Angelking
Registered User
Posts: 104
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2016 8:46 am

Re: 300 hop up

Post #32 by Angelking » Tue Feb 07, 2017 6:12 pm

pmuller9 wrote:
Angelking wrote:How many degrees does the engine slant? I never knew this...
SM

No No LOL
Stock engines sit straight up.

Aren't you going to slant the engine in the Sprint Car?


thought they did...... that's why I was asking.....LOL

The sprint car belongs to someone else on this forum. I was just hosting the pics for him....

SM

pmuller9
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Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:33 am
Location: Columbus, Indiana

Re: 300 hop up

Post #33 by pmuller9 » Tue Feb 07, 2017 6:22 pm

Angelking wrote: thought they did...... that's why I was asking.....LOL
The sprint car belongs to someone else on this forum. I was just hosting the pics for him....
SM

My Mistake.
So what vehicle will this 300 six be in?

rpatt1
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Posts: 29
Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 8:38 pm
Location: Hillsboro Oregon

Re: 300 hop up

Post #34 by rpatt1 » Thu Feb 09, 2017 9:36 am

Hi guys,

I see pmuller mentioning Autotec pistons, but when I go to their site i see no pistons for the 300. I even down loaded their pdf catalog and still see no 300 pistons.

I do see some FE pistons that are close - part number 1000778 for example which has the .975 pin we need and similar compression height - but the bore is 4.080 and i don't want to go that big??

When I do the math for any of the suggested replacement pistons from Summit racing - the dish is more like 40cc - which puts the CR at a dismal 7.4:1 with the 76cc heads.

Not trying to hijack the thread, reading it with enthusiasm and can't wait to see more!

My son has a number matching 300 engine in his 1967 - we would like to get a decent 9:1 cr for our rebuild without trying to find a 240 or an EFI head. For the silvolite pistons you mentioned which are .04 below deck - can we safely deck the block .04 to get a zero deck? Even then cr is going to be fairly low with a 76 cc head. :(

Thanks,
Rusty

pmuller9
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Location: Columbus, Indiana

Re: 300 hop up

Post #35 by pmuller9 » Thu Feb 09, 2017 12:04 pm

Rusty

The Autotec piston for the 300 is a custom piston.
You would need to fill out the custom piston order form with the specs for the piston.

You have a 1967 300 which has .912" wrist pins but you need to check first before ordering.
Connecting rods after 1968 use a .975" pin.

PM me if you need help
Paul

Angelking
Registered User
Posts: 104
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2016 8:46 am

Re: 300 hop up

Post #36 by Angelking » Mon Feb 13, 2017 6:24 am

pmuller9 wrote:
Angelking wrote: thought they did...... that's why I was asking.....LOL
The sprint car belongs to someone else on this forum. I was just hosting the pics for him....
SM

My Mistake.
So what vehicle will this 300 six be in?


Building a '40's 'dirt track replica with a '23 T- bucket body.

SM

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