Street 300 L6 Motor

Moderator: Mod Squad

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #1 by old28racer » Mon Jul 03, 2017 2:52 pm

I am rethinking my idea's for my first 300 motor build, going to back down on some of the high performance idea's and build a street motor for our low octane pump gas. This will be a good learning build as I have never done a Ford 240/300 motor before. All comments and idea's are welcome.
300 block with standard cast crankshaft
Flat top pistons 4.030 w/3cc
Pistons to block deck .020
CR 8.46 - 9.95
76cc head, P&P, 1.94 Int/1.60 Exh
RV Hyd Cam
HD EFI Exhaust Manifold
Dual Autolite 2100 1.08 two barrels
Home made Intake

Hope to make 200 HP
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

F-250 Restorer
Registered User
Posts: 589
Joined: Wed Jan 13, 2010 10:42 pm

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #2 by F-250 Restorer » Mon Jul 03, 2017 8:53 pm

Your build sounds interesting. But with a flat top piston won't it be difficult to keep the c.r. to 9.0:1? You should also consider the dynamic c.r. I believe you need to be under 7.5 to avoid pinging. You might want to consider using the early 300 rod. That will allow you to use a 351 W piston, which gives you a whole other world of possibilities. I found one on Summit with a nice 19cc oval recess that allowed me to zero deck and get 9.0:1 static c.r. with a 76cc c.chamber.

If you want to run inexpensive gas, then keep the static c.r. close to 9.0:1.

The only aspect of your build I question is the efi exhaust. You're spending money and labor to make that engine breathe (larger valves, porting, 4v carb, etc.) but then you're going to restrict the exhaust with two 1.75" pipes? One tube, for one cylinder, on my header is 1.5"! That doesn't make sense to me. If you want to feel the result of all your mods, I think you'd be better off with a header. Air in/air out.

You'll find that 'RV' cam encompasses a huge range of cams. Oh, I should mention that a Ford 300 does not react to a mild cam the way certain v8's do. Because of the large pistons and relatively small exhaust ports, the engine will not lope at idle until the duration @ .050 of the cam is up close to 220*.
Last edited by F-250 Restorer on Mon Jul 03, 2017 9:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
bubba22349
Global Moderator
Posts: 7902
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:46 pm
Location: Flagstaff, Az. 86005 near the old Route 66

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #3 by bubba22349 » Mon Jul 03, 2017 8:58 pm

For another build example this is the parts combo for the Medium Duty 300 I built.

Short block build was basic .030 over rebuilder Pistons (I used a NAPA sourced engine kit) est. compression was around 8 to 8.5, Molly rings, .010 / .010 crank with Cleveite 77 bearings, rebuilt stock connecting Rods, Melling oil pump, Melling (Torque) Cam, Aluminum Cam gear / steel crank gear, FelPro gasket set. The head was off a 300 propane engine (stock valve sizes Serdi radius valve seats with 3 angle grind to valves and back cut). I found the head to use as a replacement when I was having trouble with the two previous early head castings (1965 to 69) that kept wiping out a couple exhaust guides. I used the stock exhaust manifold into a 2 1/4 inch pipe and a single turbo muffler dumping right in front of the passenger side tire. Stock intake with a new Holley 1940 carb, the ignistion was a stock used DuraSpark II system and stock wiring harness from a 1977 up Ford 300. The engine was great for hauling or towing, ran great on 86 - 87 crap gas and it's pulling torque started from just off idle. Some other things I wanted to try out on was a big truck (heavy duty) exhaust manifold, an Eldenbrock 1V intake, with a 1968 Autolite 1V and Carter YFA carb's, (was going more towards economy MPG) and also a gear venders overdrive unit for the trans. If I was building it today it would also get pocket porting and mild porting to clean up intake and exhaust ports.

About the truck.

The truck was a 1965 Regular Cab F-350 short wheel base Dually chassis with 9ft x 7ft stake bed with a dump, extra 18 Gal saddle type fuel tank, weight was just a little over 5800 Lbs empty, had a NP435 trans and either 5:14 or 4:88 rear gears. The truck originally had a 240 six so the gearing was a bit too low for the extra torque of the 300. To try and compensate some I put the tallest 16 inch radials on the stock wheels that I could find easy, think they were 255's. I never had a tach in it but the truck stopped pulling at 62 MPH (am sure the speed O was off some too because of tire size being a little taller but even still it really needed an overdrive or taller gearing for Freeway driving. Good luck on your 300 build. :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #4 by old28racer » Mon Jul 03, 2017 10:42 pm

[b]F-250 Restorer & bubba22349 [/b]-- Thanks guys for the comments and information. I am using a KB flat to piston with the early .912 pin with a CH 1.774 & 6cc valve pocket. It will be .040 in the hole at TDC and I will have a CR 9.29. I have run a 292 chevy with same CR on mid grade pump gas with no problem. I want to run OEM style exhaust and not headers. The HD EFI exhaust for big trucks had a 2 1/4" exit, used with a single turbo muffler and a 2 1/4" exhaust pipe I think it will do fine for a street motor. Cam will be in the 216/228 dur at .050 with 484/500 lift with 1.6 roller rockers.
Keep in mind that this motor may not go in a car or truck, just a run stand. I may pull it apart later and rebuild it into a drag race motor for an altered drag roadster. keep in mind that I only want to make 200-250 HP for this stage of the build.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

User avatar
bubba22349
Global Moderator
Posts: 7902
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:46 pm
Location: Flagstaff, Az. 86005 near the old Route 66

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #5 by bubba22349 » Mon Jul 03, 2017 11:31 pm

:beer: old28racer, yes that sounds like a good workable combo, good luck on the build up :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #6 by old28racer » Tue Jul 04, 2017 12:28 am

bubba22349 -- Thanks, I pick up a core motor from my buddy next week, then the fun starts. :mrgreen:
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

User avatar
THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
VIP Member
Posts: 5299
Joined: Sat Nov 09, 2002 9:25 pm
Location: FRENCHTOWN

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #7 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Tue Jul 04, 2017 8:54 am

old28racer wrote:...I am rethinking my idea's for my first 300 motor build... All comments and idea's are welcome.

I have built a few motors nearly identical to your concept. I used the dual EFI exhausts and I think they will RPM better than the HD single. With good head work it will meet or exceed your 200 hp objective and pull strong to 5000 rpm. You are going to love the way the 2 x 4 (Clifford) w/ two 2150s work. Or your fabbed equivalent. It'll make you forget all about 4Vs. I have used two 1.02s and two 1.01s but I am sure two 1.08s will be fine. One of the builds I did I upgraded to a roller cam and headers and the 1.01s are too small to pull much over 5000 so I too am looking for a matched set of 1.08s to try out in the future. But for now the smaller carbs are a good rev limiter for my (relatively inexperienced) driver I have in the cockpit. And a couple of my grandkids just got their licenses so the smallish carbs are good training carbs - trouble free and hesitation free. The 2 x 2 concept eliminated many of the nagging flat spots I encountered with various 4Vs.
FORD 300 INLINE SIX - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #8 by old28racer » Tue Jul 04, 2017 1:48 pm

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER -- Thanks for the comments on the motor build. As you can see I am taking a step back from my first idea on a build for the strip and have decided to go for a more pump gas friendly motor that I may rebuild for an altered roadster later. First I need to build a running engine stand motor and get it tuned like I need. I think I will stay with a single HD Truck (600 or 700) EFI exhaust for now as I will change to headers when I rebuild motor for the strip. I really want to fab the intake for two 1.08's but 1.02's would be fine and they may be easier to find, also I have not found a lot of 1.01's for sale. With you, your son and the grandkids you need a stacker trailer. :mrgreen: Good racing, stay safe.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

User avatar
THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
VIP Member
Posts: 5299
Joined: Sat Nov 09, 2002 9:25 pm
Location: FRENCHTOWN

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #9 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Wed Jul 05, 2017 9:09 am

1.08s are found on 302s and 289s and are the easiest and cheapest to find. 1.01s and 1.02s are older. BTW, the 1.01s I have on the KFT flow a combined 4V equivalent of 340 cfm, which, with the stock head are adequate up to 5000 rpm.
FORD 300 INLINE SIX - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #10 by old28racer » Wed Jul 05, 2017 11:22 am

Not having any luck finding a 240 (68cc) head in the southern calif. area, so I need to ask the question. Can I mill the 76cc 300 head .060 - .070" to make it a 65-67cc head? Is .060-.070" a safe amount? I will still P&P the head & install 1.94/1.60 valves.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

User avatar
Haywood
Registered User
Posts: 102
Joined: Tue May 09, 2017 10:35 pm
Location: Texas

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #11 by Haywood » Wed Jul 05, 2017 1:41 pm

Not an answer to your last question, but a general reply to this thread; I'd like to see a full on fuel injection build. Most racers these days, at least the ones going the fastest, have adapted. I too used to poke it with a stick, like a stone age man first seeing fire, but I have seen the light. The stock 4.9 FI setup really isn't that bad of a place to start. Those extremely long intake runners should be some torque builders, could maybe stand to be extrude honed. The throttle body could easily be replaced with a bit bigger one. The injectors are too small to make any serious power, but some later variable injectors should cure that without flooding it at idle. The fuelie exhaust manifolds are pretty good, though the down pipes could be bigger. A stand alone computer would keep needed sensors to a minimum, and be adjustable from an easy chair with a laptop. Again just some thoughts.
I come here from a place of some knowledge, I used to be the guy to fix the BBD accelerator pump problem, or the quadrajet float problem. I've built 4 corner idle Holleys for cammed up big blocks. At this point though, unless it is lawn equipment, it better be fuel injected.

pmuller9
Registered User
Posts: 1932
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:33 am
Location: Columbus, Indiana

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #12 by pmuller9 » Wed Jul 05, 2017 3:23 pm

old28racer wrote:Not having any luck finding a 240 (68cc) head in the southern calif. area, so I need to ask the question. Can I mill the 76cc 300 head .060 - .070" to make it a 65-67cc head? Is .060-.070" a safe amount? I will still P&P the head & install 1.94/1.60 valves.

The 76cc chamber head will allow up to a 10.8 compression ratio with a flat top piston and anything below that with dish pistons.
Why the need for a smaller chamber head if you are building a pump gas friendly engine?

pmuller9
Registered User
Posts: 1932
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:33 am
Location: Columbus, Indiana

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #13 by pmuller9 » Wed Jul 05, 2017 3:32 pm

Haywood
If you want to focus more on horsepower rather than just low end torque, consider making a long plenum that fits on to the lower half of the EFI intake manifold.

1964f100240
Registered User
Posts: 68
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2013 5:40 pm

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #14 by 1964f100240 » Wed Jul 05, 2017 4:15 pm

old28racer wrote:Not having any luck finding a 240 (68cc) head in the southern calif. area, so I need to ask the question. Can I mill the 76cc 300 head .060 - .070" to make it a 65-67cc head? Is .060-.070" a safe amount? I will still P&P the head & install 1.94/1.60 valves.


i have a couple 240 heads im in fontana ca

User avatar
Haywood
Registered User
Posts: 102
Joined: Tue May 09, 2017 10:35 pm
Location: Texas

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #15 by Haywood » Wed Jul 05, 2017 4:38 pm

pmuller9 wrote:Haywood
If you want to focus more on horsepower rather than just low end torque, consider making a long plenum that fits on to the lower half of the EFI intake manifold.

Since my vehicle is a long bed F150 weighting in at an estimated 5k, torque is king. I'm wondering if the tubes could be extended to the left fender.

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #16 by old28racer » Wed Jul 05, 2017 5:06 pm

Haywood-- Building a plenum on the lower EFI intake pipe is exactly what I am going to do. I am going to run two autolite 2100 1.08 two barrel carbs. Setup will have no intake hot water heat as I live in Southern CA and it is really not needed.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #17 by old28racer » Wed Jul 05, 2017 5:39 pm

pmuller9-- my numbers for a flat top piston, 6cc valve pockets, .040 in the hole worked out to be 9.29 CR with the 76cc head and 10.01 CR with the 68cc head. I do not want to mill the block any more than .002-.005 to clean it up. I would like to run 10.0 to 10.50 CR. I really wanted to know if it was safe to mill 300 76cc head .060-.070 to make my on 68cc head?
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

pmuller9
Registered User
Posts: 1932
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:33 am
Location: Columbus, Indiana

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #18 by pmuller9 » Wed Jul 05, 2017 6:41 pm

old28racer wrote:pmuller9-- my numbers for a flat top piston, 6cc valve pockets, .040 in the hole worked out to be 9.29 CR with the 76cc head and 10.01 CR with the 68cc head. I do not want to mill the block any more than .002-.005 to clean it up. I would like to run 10.0 to 10.50 CR. I really wanted to know if it was safe to mill 300 76cc head .060-.070 to make my on 68cc head?


Then use the KB315 pistons that have no valve reliefs and will sit about .025" in the hole for a compression ratio just over 10:1 with a 76cc head.

Every head is different due to core shift and it is best to keep the head surface as thick as possible.

F-250 Restorer
Registered User
Posts: 589
Joined: Wed Jan 13, 2010 10:42 pm

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #19 by F-250 Restorer » Wed Jul 05, 2017 9:18 pm

[/quote]
I have built a few motors nearly identical to your concept. I used the dual EFI exhausts and I think they will RPM better than the HD single. With good head work it will meet or exceed your 200 hp objective and pull strong to 5000 rpm. ...[/quote]

What would be interesting is whether those engines would have performed better had they been equipped with a header.

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #20 by old28racer » Wed Jul 05, 2017 10:29 pm

pmuller9 -- Don't see how the KB315 piston that has the same compression height as the stock 300 dish at 1.774 and will place piston .020 in the hole? It will place it .040 same as stock. As a flat head piston it will make 9.29 CR with 76cc head and 10.01 CR with 68cc head at .040 in the hole. Also you must change to early .912 rods. If I am missing something set me straight. Maybe I will need to deck block .020 to get CR up to 10.5. May be easier to take a 352 piston with a CH 1.816 and take .022 off the piston top. Piston will be in the hole about .020 and will be a flat top with a CR 10.0 or 10.19 if you take .010 off the top. This is with 76cc heads.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

pmuller9
Registered User
Posts: 1932
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:33 am
Location: Columbus, Indiana

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #21 by pmuller9 » Wed Jul 05, 2017 11:45 pm

I double checked calculations using the following specs.
Head volume 76cc
Gasket thickness .039" (Fel-Pro 1024)
Gasket bore 4.18"
Piston volume 0 (Flat top, No valve pockets)
Piston to deck .040"
Stroke 3.98"
Bore 4.030"
The Static compression ratio comes out to 9.93 with a flat top piston sitting .040" in the hole.

Rod length is close to 6.21"
Stroke 3.98"
If the block deck is at the factory 10.00" spec then a piston with a 1.774" CH will sit .026" in the hole giving a 10.22 compression ratio with a flat top piston.

Having said the above, the last set of rods I worked with varied .004" in length. After resizing to the shortest rod, the rod length was closer to 6.20".
If the block deck is more than the 10.00" spec then yes, a piston with a 1.774" CH would sit around .040" in the hole.
In either case the compression ratio is still around 10:1 and if you use a cam with an advertised intake duration of 280 degrees or more the engine will be happy with pump gas.

The KB315 pistons are press fit or floating pin.
A floating pin makes it possible to bush the .975" rods down to .912"
You wouldn't need the early .912" connecting rods.

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #22 by old28racer » Thu Jul 06, 2017 2:32 pm

pmuller9--- Thanks for the information, I will be picking up the 300 motor from a buddy this next week. When I get it home I will check the block height.
Cam I am thinking about is advertised duration 272/284, will run it with 1.7 BBC roller rockers, duration at .050 is 216/228 and lift will be 487/566.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

pmuller9
Registered User
Posts: 1932
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:33 am
Location: Columbus, Indiana

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #23 by pmuller9 » Thu Jul 06, 2017 6:26 pm

The Ford 300 head exhaust port flow is very good compared to the intake port flow.
The intake port needs more attention than the exhaust port and that also holds true for the cam profile.

The Crane cam you are looking at favors the exhaust flow in both lift and duration and is not the best profile for street application in a 300.
A cam with more intake and less exhaust duration will provide a stronger midrange power.

May I suggest the Crower 19205 cam, .509”/.517”, 220/222, 284/290, 110deg.
Very strong mid range with a mild ported head.
Also the 284 degree advertised intake duration will keep the Dynamic compression low enough for lower octane pump gas
compared to the Crane cams 272 degree intake duration.

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #24 by old28racer » Thu Jul 06, 2017 10:03 pm

pmuller9----- Thanks again, I will check it out. I have been building drag race motors over the last 35 years and it is taken me a little longer to get my head around a pump gas street motor to say nothing about it being a 300 inline 6 that is new to me. With help from this site I know I am headed in the right direction.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #25 by old28racer » Sat Jul 08, 2017 10:59 pm

What is the proper size and tooth flexplate to mate a C4 Trans to a 240/300 motor. I understand the flexplate has to be nutral balance. Need a good make, part number, number of teeth, supplier. Does not need to be SFI race certified.

Will all C4 bolt on to the 240/300 rear motor layout?
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

User avatar
bubba22349
Global Moderator
Posts: 7902
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:46 pm
Location: Flagstaff, Az. 86005 near the old Route 66

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #26 by bubba22349 » Sun Jul 09, 2017 9:01 am

Old28racer, yes the C4 will bolt right up to the 240 / 300 blocks as long you have one with SBF V8 6 bolt bell housing like the late 289, 302, 351W and 351C V8, the 250 six'es also use this same block pateren along with all 240 & 300 six'es. I look for C4's that are 1972 and newer V8 units (more clutches) because they will have all the Ford factory improvements, the 1971 C4 trans can also be a good just by changing the input shaft to a 1972 up.

The flex plate size is determined by the bell housing size. Generally the car type C4 trans (the case fill's) uses a 157 tooth flex plate and the truck type (pan fill's) uses a 164 tooth flex plate. If you use the case fill you can get the 1975 to 77 Maverick / Comets 250 six , the Grenada's / Monarchs with 250 etc. flex plate and probally a few others too. On the pan fill there are some years of the Econoline Vans that had them, can't help you with the part numbers though maybe somebody else has that for you. Good luck :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #27 by old28racer » Sun Jul 09, 2017 12:50 pm

bubba22349-- thanks for the information. I will need to go through the different combinations & years when I get to the trans stage. I want to get the correct flexplate & ring gear so I can install the correct starter when it is on a run stand.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

User avatar
THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
VIP Member
Posts: 5299
Joined: Sat Nov 09, 2002 9:25 pm
Location: FRENCHTOWN

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #28 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sun Jul 09, 2017 10:26 pm

One advantage of the pan fill type is they have an extra set of bolts to hold on the bellhousing, not relying on the pump bolts, making the case stronger.
FORD 300 INLINE SIX - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #29 by old28racer » Sun Jul 09, 2017 11:20 pm

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER----- Maybe you can help me out as I do not know the difference between a (case fill) & (pan fill)?

Is this the type of C4 trans & how does that affect the Flex Plate size and type?

I am going to run a non SFI flexplate to start with. Is the type of starter an issue with the different C4 trans?

Unlike the GM Powerglide, can you change the bellhousing for a C4/300 combination?
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

User avatar
THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
VIP Member
Posts: 5299
Joined: Sat Nov 09, 2002 9:25 pm
Location: FRENCHTOWN

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #30 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Wed Jul 12, 2017 10:48 pm

Pan fill / case fill has to do with the dipstick location. Some are placed in the case casting; some have the dipstick in the pan. The flex plate is the same regardless of the case type. The tooth count is either 157 or 164 and the starter is the same also. Note that the late model PMGR starter can be retrofitted to earlier model years for improved cranking power in a smaller package.
FORD 300 INLINE SIX - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #31 by old28racer » Fri Jul 14, 2017 12:47 pm

TFF -- Thanks, I was sure a case fill was like PG/TH350 & 400, but I have never seen a pan fill with the dipstick located in the pan so I had to ask.

Is there a better year C4 trans to mate to the 300 motor for light duty (car or hot rod)?
Is the pan fill or case fill of any real importance?
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #32 by old28racer » Sat Jul 15, 2017 4:56 pm

pmuller9 -- & all others --- I was not able to find the seat & open pressure and the spring height requirements for the Crower 19205 cam. Any body got them? A good replacement spring that will fit the 300 head seat?
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

pmuller9
Registered User
Posts: 1932
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:33 am
Location: Columbus, Indiana

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #33 by pmuller9 » Sat Jul 15, 2017 9:47 pm

old28racer wrote:pmuller9 -- & all others --- I was not able to find the seat & open pressure and the spring height requirements for the Crower 19205 cam. Any body got them? A good replacement spring that will fit the 300 head seat?


The Crower 84010 kit has the lifters, springs, retainers, and seals.
Lifter# 66015-12
Spring# 68324-12
Retainer# 87050-12
Seal# 86072-12 (The top of the valve guides will need to be cut for the seals)

Keeper# 86107 is extra and recommended.

The installed spring height is 1.650" with a seat pressure of 108 lbs.
If you are going to use 1.7 ratio rockers the exhaust valve lift will be .550" with an open spring pressure of 254 lbs.

The stock installed spring height is 1.700" which means you will need to shim the springs to the 1.650" height.
That will give you room for the Crower 68924 bottom spring locator.
The shims go under the locators.

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #34 by old28racer » Sat Jul 15, 2017 10:09 pm

pmuller9--- Thanks for the numbers, I will buy the kit & extra keepers. I think this will be a nice setup. I know that Jegs & Summit have the kits, any better dollar wise place to get a deal?
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

pmuller9
Registered User
Posts: 1932
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:33 am
Location: Columbus, Indiana

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #35 by pmuller9 » Sat Jul 15, 2017 10:15 pm

Because of the free shipping, Summit has the best price that I know of.

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #36 by old28racer » Mon Jul 17, 2017 1:14 pm

Will the TransDap 2086 adapter fit a Autolite 2100 1.08 bolt pattern?
Need two for spacers on my home built EFI lower intake tube plenum.
I think the Holly & Aurtolite 2100 two bbl have the same bolt pattern.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #37 by old28racer » Wed Jul 19, 2017 11:27 pm

Picked up my core 300 motor yesterday, have not checked out numbers for the block or head yet. Motor has been disassembled and has original standard pistons in it that have no marks on the piston skirts or the bore. This motor was removed from a farm truck when it had valve train problems. It is an EFI motor and the problem was it cleaned a bunch off the cam gear. As this was years ago the motor was pulled and went into the bone yard and new motor was installed. I would be surprised if it had a few thousand miles on it.

The head is a 300 that ran pedistal mount rockers. My question is how much has to be milled from the already flat bosses to drill and tap for screw in 7/16 rocker studs? Is the number .250? I will be running guide plates also.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #38 by old28racer » Fri Jul 21, 2017 7:57 pm

Was able to spend some time going over the motor & parts today. The block casting number is F2TE-6015-BA so it is a 1992 Truck Engine. I reset the crank in the block and both the main & rod bearings are standard Ford factory units. I measured the #1 piston torqued in place to see how far down it was in the bore (.021") I was thinking it would be .040-.050". The pistons are original Ford standard units that like I said, no skirt marks & no cylinder wall marks. All bearings look like new. I really think this motor had only a few miles in a ranch truck and they needed it repaired ASAP so they pulled motor and put in a new replacement. This motor sat in their bone yard until I picked it up in 2010 for a buddy of mine. The rancher that gave me the motor is a race buddy of ours. 25% of the cam teeth were broken off.

I have some pictures of the head but they are stored in my computer as Jpeg and I don't know how to attach them to this message.
If you can help me I'll attach some pictures.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

User avatar
Haywood
Registered User
Posts: 102
Joined: Tue May 09, 2017 10:35 pm
Location: Texas

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #39 by Haywood » Fri Jul 21, 2017 8:53 pm

I've found; just setup an account at a place like https://imgbb.com/
upload your pics, copy the links they provide & paste between the img img that appear when you select image.


old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #41 by old28racer » Sat Jul 22, 2017 11:26 pm

Looks like it worked (thanks Haywood).
Is there any way the pictures can all come up so you do not have to open each one?
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

80f150custom
Registered User
Posts: 40
Joined: Tue Jun 28, 2016 1:18 am

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #42 by 80f150custom » Sun Jul 23, 2017 5:22 am

When you click on the first link on the left hand side of the screen is an arrow that takes you through the rest of the pictures. So it is only necessary to click on one link not all of them.

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #43 by old28racer » Sun Jul 23, 2017 10:52 am

80f150custom -- thanks for the hint
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

pmuller9
Registered User
Posts: 1932
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:33 am
Location: Columbus, Indiana

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #44 by pmuller9 » Sun Jul 23, 2017 5:14 pm

Nice looking engine core.
Since the head has around 68cc chambers the quest for the right piston begins again.

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #45 by old28racer » Sun Jul 23, 2017 7:20 pm

pmuller9--- I still want to look at a 352 V8 piston with .065 milled off the top and set .065 deck that will still give me 10.0 CR with a flat top piston. numbers are in general and not finial. Will check out some other combinations.

Please take a look at the picture of the head chamber with the stock 1.775 Intake valve in place. I am not sure there is enough room to mount a 1.94 intake valve in the head as it is now. I do not want to do a lot of chamber machine work. I am thinking that may have to go to a little smaller 1.84 Intake. Take a look at the picture and see what you think. If I can do a 1.94 that is what I want. I will haul the head over to my machinist next week for him to take a look at.

https://ibb.co/fXfax5
https://ibb.co/icRtjk
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

pmuller9
Registered User
Posts: 1932
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:33 am
Location: Columbus, Indiana

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #46 by pmuller9 » Sun Jul 23, 2017 8:18 pm

There should be room for a 1.94" intake valve.
Bolt the head back on the block and scribe the cylinder bore on to the head surface.
That will show you how far you can grind the chamber walls back away from the intake valve.
Also grind the radius back that is on the quench pad (Flat area) while still keeping the heart shape.

This is one of my 300 heads where I ground the walls back for a 2.02" intake valve.
You can see the circular scribe line.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9dpif5xrxob8g ... .JPG?raw=1
Yes it is different than the EFI head but will give you a visual to work with.

This is usually where comments come in about messing up the quick burn swirl feature of the EFI chamber.
Last edited by pmuller9 on Wed Mar 21, 2018 12:56 am, edited 3 times in total.

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #47 by old28racer » Sun Jul 23, 2017 9:26 pm

pmuller9--- Thanks for the information and the picture. I will mark the head before I run by the machine shop so he can see what I have in mind. This whole motor build, piston, head, cam, valve train will be way different than Ford had for an EFI with quick burn. The 194/160 valves, crower 19205 cam, flat top pistons and 10.0 CR will make up for any mods to the head chamber.

This is what is fun, building something different with a plan on were you want to end up. :mrgreen:
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #48 by old28racer » Sat Jul 29, 2017 7:20 pm

Any one out there have a good used hyd cam for 240/300 l6 motor. I am looking for a cam with an advertised duration in the range of 280-284 for Intake and 288-290 for the Exhaust with lift in 509-517 with 1.6 rockers, lobe separation of 110. Open to others what do you have out there.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #49 by old28racer » Thu Aug 03, 2017 7:44 pm

Who has a good rebuilt stock style water pump that will fit a 1992 300 motor?
Would like to run V-belt pulleys and belts, more for old style look.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

old28racer
Registered User
Posts: 279
Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:27 pm
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #50 by old28racer » Tue Aug 08, 2017 12:31 am

best off shelf distributor & coil for my mild 300 build?

Will be running a 2x2 autolite carb setup on a home made plenum off original lower EFI intake tubes, 1.94/1.60 valves, 10.0 CR.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests