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Tractor Puller

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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #51 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Thu Mar 22, 2018 9:34 am

good plan

A 460 pump hex quill will also work if it gets shortened. I use one on the end of a drill to prime before fire-up.
The mid sump is a good choice since it has vertical walls for the first three inches all around.
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #52 by drag-200stang » Thu Mar 22, 2018 10:08 am

Very nice work :thumbup:
Can you post up the length of the 351 drive and any others you may have, when you get it.
Thank you.
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #53 by arse_sidewards » Thu Mar 22, 2018 10:41 am

Marine engines sometimes use solid baffles that run almost full with with the gap on alternating sides. This limits the speed at which the oil can move through the pan so that the oil isn't going from end to end every time the boat pitches. If you're just planning on the front wheels leaving earth momentarily that would work.

You could add some hinged or trap door baffles to the pan if you really want to prevent the oil from leaving the sump when some force tries to throw it all to one end of the pan. With well fitting hinge/trap door baffles you could probably buy a lot more time, maybe even enough to run the start of the pull on two wheels without an accumulator.

I don't know how much oil a 300 pumps. The spec on the oil filter is 7-9gpm max but that doesn't mean that the engine actually pumps that much.
1994 F150 4x4 8ft, engine is basically stock.

66" leafs, extended radius arms, lockers in both ends, nothing special.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #54 by pmuller9 » Thu Mar 22, 2018 1:41 pm

Lunatic Fringe wrote:[My original oil pan is a centre sump, so I'll cut it up to add a deeper rear sump. Plan to test fit the rear sump pickup tube from a '95 to see if it will work. If we get the weight balance wrong and get the front end too high I don't want to suck air.

I like the idea of the rear sump.
As you probably know the rear sump pickup tube has a tab that bolts to a main cap bolt/stud for support.
I'm sure you can come off the girdle with some type of support.

Did you decide on what cam to use?

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #55 by Lunatic Fringe » Thu Mar 22, 2018 11:06 pm

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:good plan

A 460 pump hex quill will also work if it gets shortened. I use one on the end of a drill to prime before fire-up.
The mid sump is a good choice since it has vertical walls for the first three inches all around.


Yes, agree on both, a little bit of precussion adjustment in a few spots on the pan gives enough clearance for the main girdle.

Actually, agree on all 3.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #56 by Lunatic Fringe » Thu Mar 22, 2018 11:26 pm

drag-200stang wrote:Very nice work :thumbup:
Can you post up the length of the 351 drive and any others you may have, when you get it.
Thank you.


Thank you.
The aftermarket 351W drive measures 8 3/16".
Aftermarket 460 drive measures 9 5/16". Both have a large OD in the middle that will need to be reduced in order to fit the 300.
Stock 300 is 4 1/2". The one we need will be 6".

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #57 by Lunatic Fringe » Thu Mar 22, 2018 11:38 pm

arse_sidewards wrote:Marine engines sometimes use solid baffles that run almost full with with the gap on alternating sides. This limits the speed at which the oil can move through the pan so that the oil isn't going from end to end every time the boat pitches. If you're just planning on the front wheels leaving earth momentarily that would work.

You could add some hinged or trap door baffles to the pan if you really want to prevent the oil from leaving the sump when some force tries to throw it all to one end of the pan. With well fitting hinge/trap door baffles you could probably buy a lot more time.


This is the plan.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #58 by Lunatic Fringe » Thu Mar 22, 2018 11:48 pm

pmuller9 wrote:
I like the idea of the rear sump.
As you probably know the rear sump pickup tube has a tab that bolts to a main cap bolt/stud for support.
I'm sure you can come off the girdle with some type of support.

Did you decide on what cam to use?


Lol, even my combine motor came with that stud. Probably use some kind of brace off the main studs.

No final decision on the cam yet, but I really like the 2nd one that Frenchtown Flyer posted.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #59 by pmuller9 » Fri Mar 23, 2018 12:42 am

Lunatic Fringe wrote:No final decision on the cam yet, but I really like the 2nd one that Frenchtown Flyer posted.

That cam will certainly give you high initial tire speed.
I just don't how well it will work with a 3500 stall converter.
It would be better if the converter stall was close to peak torque so the sled can't drag the engine rpm below peak torque.
You would have to try the cam to see where the power band is with your engine configuration.

You will need lots of carburetion on your sheet metal intake manifold.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #60 by Lunatic Fringe » Fri Mar 23, 2018 11:55 pm

pmuller9 wrote:I just don't how well it will work with a 3500 stall converter.
It would be better if the converter stall was close to peak torque so the sled can't drag the engine rpm below peak torque.
You would have to try the cam to see where the power band is with your engine configuration.

You will need lots of carburetion on your sheet metal intake manifold.


Unfortunately, some decisions are financial, converter is one of them. It will get us on the track, we can replace it later.

We will start with a 750,have access to a 650 and 850.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #61 by pmuller9 » Sat Mar 24, 2018 10:44 am

Lunatic Fringe wrote:We will start with a 750,have access to a 650 and 850.

A sheet metal manifold would let you use 3 two bbl carbs which has far better distribution than a single 4 bbl.
You can even do two smaller 4 bbl carbs.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=77623&hilit=stumble
Last edited by pmuller9 on Sat Mar 24, 2018 12:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #62 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sat Mar 24, 2018 11:38 am

Three 350 2Vs is about equivalent in flow to a 750 cfm 4V. I do think the three 2Vs will outperform the 4V due in part to the better fuel distribution (I say this in spite of what I said in the article on me in the 1986 Superford magazine, favoring the 4V at that time. Hey, I guy can learn, can't he? It took me a while to adjust to three twos.).
FORD 300 INLINE SIX - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING

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Sled Puller - the 300 as a tractor

Post #63 by chad » Sat Mar 24, 2018 5:15 pm

"...took me a while to adjust to..."
some use 1 per...I wouda said something bout that but my limited understanding of automotive tech is "one huge 1v is best for tq".
Yes, some use 6 cycle carbs - but that's on the 200 as a race motor.
Work here?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #64 by Lunatic Fringe » Sun Mar 25, 2018 12:09 am

Because we compete in a Limited Small Block class, we are restricted to a single 4BBL. I would love to be able to use 3-2BBL's. Once we have a season under our belts, I plan on asking for an allowance. Unless all the SBC's are sceeerred of a little ol 6!

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #65 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sun Mar 25, 2018 1:14 pm

I used a 650 double-pumper early on. Mechanical secondaries, nicely sized for a race 240 or 300.
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Re: Sled Puller - the 300 as a tractor

Post #66 by chad » Sun Mar 25, 2018 2:41 pm

chad wrote:"...took me a while to adjust to..."
some use 1 per...I wouda said something bout that but my limited understanding of automotive tech is "one huge 1v is best for tq".
Yes, some use 6 cycle carbs - but that's on the 200 as a race motor.
Work here?


They're usin 6 Mikunis or Keihins. I'll drop the below & allow ya ta get back to it. No more side tracks, just this info:

Keihin and Mikuni

http://www.triumphspitfire.com/carbchoices.html.

http://www.altiss.com/ThrottleBodies.html

http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=103402

http://www.danstengineering.co.uk/




ttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWM5-xZ1q0M

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIeh3Bf_8sQ

ttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyTHu3NkQIE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-EVAnY7WKQ



CUT OFF LOG or INTAKE

Sawed off Log
OpelGT+3point3
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=74153&p=570045&hilit=Cutting+off+the+log#p570045

Chopped Log and Intake
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=77786&p=599485#p599485




http://www.v-performance.com/products/air_fuel.html

http://www.triumphspitfire.com/carbchoices.html.



http://www.altiss.com/ThrottleBodies.html

http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=103402

http://www.danstengineering.co.uk/




ttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWM5-xZ1q0M

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIeh3Bf_8sQ

ttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyTHu3NkQIE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-EVAnY7WKQ



CUT OFF LOG or INTAKE

Sawed off Log
OpelGT+3point3
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=74153&p=570045&hilit=Cutting+off+the+log#p570045

Chopped Log and Intake
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=77786&p=599485#p599485

Enjoy!!!
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #67 by Lunatic Fringe » Fri Mar 30, 2018 1:59 pm

This is our original chassis(We built in 1982) running a 400M w/Cleveland 4BBL heads(We built in 1990). Points champ several times. Could have assembled a similar motor for our new effort, but we like a challenge.
aYLv0a.jpg
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #68 by chad » Fri Mar 30, 2018 2:18 pm

like that motor: largest displacement "square' motor (I know of).
No 400? boar out the 351...

I'm surprised how the vehicle is configured - almost like the ol dragster (a "rail").
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #69 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Fri Mar 30, 2018 10:00 pm

NICE
Were you able to get the 400 crank to live?
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #70 by old28racer » Fri Mar 30, 2018 11:02 pm

Your V8 puller was a nice looking rig. I am glad you are up for the challenge of a big block 300+ between the rails. Will be very interested in any dyno reading you may get. How many inches are you going to push the motor out to? What HP range are you looking for? Keep the thread & pictures coming.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #71 by Lunatic Fringe » Sat Mar 31, 2018 12:30 am

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:NICE
Were you able to get the 400 crank to live?


Mostly yes,lol. 1 failure when the 2nd owner cheated out on the rearend, broke that during a pull and the motor hit 9400 RPM(according to the tach). The heads survived, the rest of it was subjected to spontaneous disassembly.

Crank was machined to be internally balanced when I built it. ARP rod bolts, main studs and caps was all I did. Would spin 6500 every time out. So from 1990-2017 would be pretty good.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #72 by Lunatic Fringe » Sat Mar 31, 2018 12:40 am

old28racer wrote:Your V8 puller was a nice looking rig. I am glad you are up for the challenge of a big block 300+ between the rails. Will be very interested in any dyno reading you may get. How many inches are you going to push the motor out to? What HP range are you looking for? Keep the thread & pictures coming.


Thanks for the compliment.

Motor will only get an overbore, no extra stroke. The 300 and the 400 are virtually the same CI per cylinder.

LOL, in pulling the dyno is hooked on a chain behind us. If we're not getting the RPM and tire speed we want, we're not making enough HP.

I'd like to spin it 6500-7000. Time will tell.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #73 by old28racer » Sat Mar 31, 2018 1:25 pm

Good answer on HP :mrgreen:

I ran a AC Vintage tractor puller up in WA state from 2000 - 2008 so I know what you mean about the sled telling you if the setup is right.

2004_0704testpictures0006.JPG


2004_0704testpictures0005.JPG


Tom
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #74 by chad » Sat Mar 31, 2018 5:34 pm

now there's a rail...
:twisted:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #75 by Nebr Rex » Sat Mar 31, 2018 6:16 pm

old28racer wrote:Good answer on HP :mrgreen:

I ran a AC Vintage tractor puller up in WA state from 2000 - 2008 so I know what you mean about the sled telling you if the setup is right.

2004_0704testpictures0006.JPG

2004_0704testpictures0005.JPG

Tom


Were those wheels originally red?


.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #76 by chad » Sat Mar 31, 2018 10:17 pm

no pic Tom, just this

2004_0704testpictures0006.JPG

2004_0704testpictures0005.JPG
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #77 by Lunatic Fringe » Sat Mar 31, 2018 11:16 pm

old28racer wrote:Good answer on HP :mrgreen:

I ran a AC Vintage tractor puller up in WA state from 2000 - 2008 so I know what you mean about the sled telling you if the setup is right.

Tom


Nice unit, love the old tractors.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #78 by Lunatic Fringe » Fri Apr 06, 2018 11:42 pm

Testing the bolt and port locations on the CNC. Once I've got that part perfect, I'll add in the parting lines between intake and exhaust plates. Then create a CAD file to send to the Waterjet. Once they come back, I'll be able to start welding up the headers and a sheet metal intake.
5cd2efee822c5758227cee911f005f86.jpeg
Doing the same for the valve cover.
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #79 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sat Apr 07, 2018 2:10 pm

Lunatic Fringe wrote:Testing the bolt and port locations on the CNC. Once I've got that part perfect, I'll add in the parting lines between intake and exhaust plates. Then create a CAD file to send to the Waterjet. Once they come back, I'll be able to start welding up the headers and a sheet metal intake.5cd2efee822c5758227cee911f005f86.jpeg Doing the same for the valve cover.

iNSTEAD OF SEPARATING THE INTAKE FROM THE EXHAUST WHY NOT JUST LEAVE IT ONE-PIECE. tHEN ADD SIX STUB PIPES WITH TWO-BOLT FLANGES. tHAT WAY THE MOUNTING OF THE INTAKE IS WAY MORE SECURE, LESS PROBLEMATIC IN TERMS OF ALIGNMENT, AND YOU GET THE FLEXIBILITY OF BEING ABLE TO CHANGE HEADER DESIGNS (IF, FOR EXAMPLE, YOU WANT TO PUT THE ENGINE IN A DIFFERENT VEHICLE, OR RE-DESIGN THE HEADERS.)
wORKED FOR ME.
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #80 by Lunatic Fringe » Sat Apr 07, 2018 10:37 pm

iNSTEAD OF SEPARATING THE INTAKE FROM THE EXHAUST WHY NOT JUST LEAVE IT ONE-PIECE. tHEN ADD SIX STUB PIPES WITH TWO-BOLT FLANGES. tHAT WAY THE MOUNTING OF THE INTAKE IS WAY MORE SECURE, LESS PROBLEMATIC IN TERMS OF ALIGNMENT, AND YOU GET THE FLEXIBILITY OF BEING ABLE TO CHANGE HEADER DESIGNS (IF, FOR EXAMPLE, YOU WANT TO PUT THE ENGINE IN A DIFFERENT VEHICLE, OR RE-DESIGN THE HEADERS.)
wORKED FOR ME.[/quote]

LOL, The KISS principal in action. Thanks for the idea!

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #81 by Lunatic Fringe » Sat Apr 21, 2018 9:44 pm

Have been very busy doing all the million little details that are part of a project like this. Some pieces can be taken from donor vehicles, most have to be scratch built. For example- brakes. Pullers run individual rear brakes in order to steer on the track when the front wheels are in the air. Rotors are from a 2004 Explorer, callipers from a 2002 VW Jetta and master cylinders from a 1999 Honda. Pedals are mounted an inch away from the transmission, so things get tight real quick.

photo.JPG


Converting a center sump pan to a rear sump. Bent the tube to connect to the 70's 400M pickup. Next is to bend up new pan sides.
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #82 by chad » Sat Apr 21, 2018 10:31 pm

nice, appears to be a rear sump?
If so, whaja use for the p/u tube (only)?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #83 by Lunatic Fringe » Sat Apr 21, 2018 10:45 pm

chad wrote:nice, appears to be a rear sump?
If so, whaja use for the p/u tube (only)?


Will be rear sump when I'm done.

3/4 x 1/16 wall tubing.

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sump work

Post #84 by chad » Sun Apr 22, 2018 12:36 pm

Thnx!
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #85 by Lunatic Fringe » Sat Jun 09, 2018 12:33 am

Work has been interfering with my hobbies, but finally getting a chance to get back at it. Doesn't help that some parts are delayed too. Welded up the rear end and test fit the axles, wheels and centre section.[image]
6EluVJ.jpg
[/image]
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #86 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sat Jun 09, 2018 7:05 am

The thought of a stout 300 ripping away at that robust rear end makes me smile.
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #87 by chad » Sat Jun 09, 2018 7:02 pm

OUTRAGIOUS !
U Go Boy !!!
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #88 by Lunatic Fringe » Sun Jul 29, 2018 11:44 pm

Christmas in July! All my backordered parts finally showed!!! Pistons, head and main studs, rod bearings for the aluminum rods, oil pump, etc, etc .... Now I can start sending the block to the machine shop.

Now if I just had a cylinder head to go with it all.......
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Lunatic Fringe
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #89 by Lunatic Fringe » Mon Sep 03, 2018 2:23 pm

Sent these off to get waterjet cut. Intake in 1/2" aluminum, exhaust in 1/2" steel. My first DWG's using AutoCad, he only had to do a bit of cleanup. I'm pretty happy with how they came out. Should get them back in a week.Image

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chad
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #90 by chad » Mon Sep 03, 2018 4:12 pm

"... finally getting a chance to get back..."
slo but steady.

"...Now if I just had a cylinder head to go with it all..."
What's the issue w/the head?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #91 by Lunatic Fringe » Mon Sep 03, 2018 4:37 pm

LOL, I have a head for now, It's a reference to waiting patiently for a new one from World Champ Gramp (And group).

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #92 by Lunatic Fringe » Sat Sep 08, 2018 4:24 pm

8C3CJv.jpg
]Got my parts from the waterjet today! Time to weld up an intake and some headers!
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #93 by Max_Effort » Tue Dec 11, 2018 7:49 pm

Nice project!

Lunatic Fringe
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #94 by Lunatic Fringe » Tue Dec 11, 2018 10:46 pm

Max_Effort wrote:Nice project!


Thanks! Haven't been posting much lately as I'm dealing with all the "non fun" work that needs to be done. Hope to be posting some pics during the Christmas break.

The local county fair just announced a tractor pull so the pressure is on to be ready!!

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maxtrux
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #95 by maxtrux » Wed Dec 12, 2018 3:20 pm

This thing should be a beast. I can't wait to hear how you're doing. I'm imagining this thing with a new set of aluminum Sr. heads on it. The guys running the big blocks have got to be scratching their heads when they see how competitive a "measly li'l 6 cylinder" can compete with them.

Give'em fits and take their trophies!
68 F100 300 auto; '78 T'bird 28K original miles; '86 F350 5.9 Cummins; '93 Lightning Turbo coming soon; '94 Mark VIII w/nitrous; '98 Ram V6 43K My dad's last truck; '99 Navigator; 2000 Excursion V10; 2011 F350 6.7; 2017 F350 6.7
Reckon my next one should be from the 50s but I do love the early 60s falcon

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chad
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Tractor Puller

Post #96 by chad » Wed Dec 12, 2018 3:28 pm

"...Reckon my next one should be from the 50s but I do love the early 60s falcon..."
try the 215, 223, 226, 264 ?
C our forum for that.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #97 by sdiesel » Thu Dec 13, 2018 10:07 pm

I'm really digging the new members with this big experience and skill
combined with all the old regulars:
ftf
muller
cnc
work in
arse
mech rick
sick six
and other heavyweights who been here a long time and have contributed so much to this board
... hike myself up on the fence, hitch my boot heels into the rail, and watch the goin's on.
This here thread is most interesting
a long love affair with the 300 six.
my lastest and final fling is a fresh 300 in an 88 ford f350 dually 4X flatbed

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #98 by Lunatic Fringe » Mon Dec 24, 2018 10:36 pm

Finally got a chance to start on the intake manifold. Centre 2 runners tacked in place, will work on runners 2 and 5 next. Plennum floor is oversize for now until I've got all the runners cut in.Image
Image

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #99 by pmuller9 » Tue Dec 25, 2018 10:00 am

The bell shaped runner entry looks good!

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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #100 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Tue Dec 25, 2018 11:30 am

You have a really nice beginning to your intake manifold. For an Nth degree of perfection, it may have been optimum to flatten the short side radius - the inside of the curved runner - to mate up to the flat roof of the port. Also, if the intake is to be dry, the entry radius should protrude up into the plenum a bit.

These details fall into the category of "how many angels can be balanced on the head of a pin" category but are details that are considered for an all-out performance attempt.

I once had a consult with a nationally prominent race team crew chief about such details and recommended he make the radiused inlet opening to his runners such-and-such a size. After speaking with me he consulted a flow expert who pointed out that technically speaking " the entry should be a parabolic cross section, not a radius. So instead of just using a simple radius opening, he had parabolic CNC-machined air horns made up. Very costly. I've got nothing against seeking a second opinion. After all, isn't that what we do here on fordsix. And in the back of my mind I knew that a parabolic opening is infinitesimally better than a radius. So I didn't even think to mention it. But at the highest levels of competition its the infinitesimally small details that make the difference, regardless of the cost. You can take this to extremes ( runner surface finish, degree of taper, placement, etc.) and keep yourself awake nights in search of perfection. That's just my Christmas Musings while I'm still cogent on this Blessed Holiday.
Merry Christmas.
FORD 300 INLINE SIX - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING

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