Belt routing.

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psa1sonic
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Belt routing.

Post #1 by psa1sonic » Mon May 21, 2018 6:04 am

So I pretty sure I have the wrong belt. But can having the wrong Belt. not having tension caused the truck stall and die I do you know if I put too much electrical load on my volts go down to 10

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bubba22349
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Re: Belt routing.

Post #2 by bubba22349 » Thu May 24, 2018 11:14 am

psa1sonic wrote:So I pretty sure I have the wrong belt. But can having the wrong Belt. not having tension caused the truck stall and die I do you know if I put too much electrical load on my volts go down to 10


So it sounds as though your charging system isn't working to full capacity or its not working at all if you know you have the wrong belt get the right one also clean all the electrical contacts and grounds, have tha alternator check too it's free at many auto parts stores. Yes for sure if your voltage has dropped down to 10 volts than you don't have enough power for the engine to run as it should, electronic ignistion systems need more than that atleast 12 volts minimum. A fully charged battery should have 13.4 to 13.8 volts this is what you need to have for best performance of the electrical system. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

psa1sonic
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Re: Belt routing.

Post #3 by psa1sonic » Fri May 25, 2018 1:23 pm

bubba22349 wrote:
psa1sonic wrote:So I pretty sure I have the wrong belt. But can having the wrong Belt. not having tension caused the truck stall and die I do you know if I put too much electrical load on my volts go down to 10


So it sounds as though your charging system isn't working to full capacity or its not working at all if you know you have the wrong belt get the right one also clean all the electrical contacts and grounds, have tha alternator check too it's free at many auto parts stores. Yes for sure if your voltage has dropped down to 10 volts than you don't have enough power for the engine to run as it should, electronic ignistion systems need more than that atleast 12 volts minimum. A fully charged battery should have 13.4 to 13.8 volts this is what you need to have for best performance of the electrical system. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:


Fully charged a good 12 v battery should read 12.6. But yes the belt routing was far to short on my original belt. The k060938 fit perfectly for removal of the air pump. And 10v is actually the minimum threshold for ability to start up. Running it prefers 13.5 to 14.5. But yes good clean grounds and power are clean they are new new. Alt I need to test. I have a feeling that it’s going tits up. I’m just at my wits end with my poor truck. New motor only because I pull the transmission out and figure hey my oil pans leaking a little bit pull oil pan and my camshaft lobes all look like ski slopes totally worn out. So out cam the motor. And the Mains were original @495kk miles so time for over haul pulled head and massive white powder. So she was super lean. So now 6$k later I have a half running truck because I am crazy and decided I can work 80 hrs at work come home be a dad and work on my truck. Oh well my daughter has leaned new was to curse. So one the plus side the conversations with here teacher now involves words like "censored" nugget and wanker.

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Re: Belt routing.

Post #4 by bubba22349 » Sat May 26, 2018 8:35 am

psa1sonic wrote:
bubba22349 wrote:
psa1sonic wrote:So I pretty sure I have the wrong belt. But can having the wrong Belt. not having tension caused the truck stall and die I do you know if I put too much electrical load on my volts go down to 10


So it sounds as though your charging system isn't working to full capacity or its not working at all if you know you have the wrong belt get the right one also clean all the electrical contacts and grounds, have tha alternator check too it's free at many auto parts stores. Yes for sure if your voltage has dropped down to 10 volts than you don't have enough power for the engine to run as it should, electronic ignistion systems need more than that atleast 12 volts minimum. A fully charged battery should have 13.4 to 13.8 volts this is what you need to have for best performance of the electrical system. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:


Fully charged a good 12 v battery should read 12.6. But yes the belt routing was far to short on my original belt. The k060938 fit perfectly for removal of the air pump. And 10v is actually the minimum threshold for ability to start up. Running it prefers 13.5 to 14.5. But yes good clean grounds and power are clean they are new new. Alt I need to test. I have a feeling that it’s going tits up. I’m just at my wits end with my poor truck. New motor only because I pull the transmission out and figure hey my oil pans leaking a little bit pull oil pan and my camshaft lobes all look like ski slopes totally worn out. So out cam the motor. And the Mains were original @495kk miles so time for over haul pulled head and massive white powder. So she was super lean. So now 6$k later I have a half running truck because I am crazy and decided I can work 80 hrs at work come home be a dad and work on my truck. Oh well my daughter has leaned new was to curse. So one the plus side the conversations with here teacher now involves words like "censored" nugget and wanker.


:rolflmao: lol teaching your daughter these new words gave me a big laugh when I read that. Yeah that’s a tough spot to be in working so many hours not to have much time for the repairs. Yes when you get the chance to check out the alternators output then you will know if and where to go next.

Sorry not 12.6 on the battery but it would at least operate and run fair at that amount of charge. So will be sticking to my previous statement, as each cell of a (12 volt battery) in good condistion and fully charged should be 2.3 volts X 6 this equals 13.8 volts. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

psa1sonic
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Re: Belt routing.

Post #5 by psa1sonic » Sat May 26, 2018 12:56 pm

Fully charged automotive batteries should measure at 12.6 volts or above. When the engine is running, this measurement should be 13.7 to 14.7 volts. If you don't have a multimeter to tell you the voltage of your battery, you can do a test of your electrical system by starting the car and turning on the headlights.




But yes the alt is good putting out 95 amps.

But my electric fans suck 30 amps x2.
But the new belt btw efi motor for smog delete a 94” belt length seems to be the magic number.

As far as a battery reading 13v when the motor is not running or just after the car was turned off. There is a kinda of residual charge left over. Like the head on a beer. To remove it and get true battery voltage readings turn your high beams on for thirty seconds then go re check the voltages with a good volt meter. A centec harbor freaight is not a good one.

But running a cars battery should be 13.5-14.5.

psa1sonic
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Re: Belt routing.

Post #6 by psa1sonic » Sun May 27, 2018 12:33 am

bubba22349 wrote:
Sorry not 12.6 on the battery but it would at least operate and run fair at that amount of charge. So will be sticking to my previous statement, as each cell of a (12 volt battery) in good condistion and fully charged should be 2.3 volts X 6 this equals 13.8 volts. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:

Your right about the 2.3v x6=13.8v.


A batteries internal resistance can be .5ohm+-.5ohm to 1.0 ohm +- .5 ohm. That was you don’t get that full 13.8v your forgetting ohms law. I promise you. Got to a parts house. V test every battery. Get 12.3v -13.1v but usually 12.5-12.8. That’s why the rule of thumb is 12.6v is a fully charged battery. Electricity is pure freaking magic. And will do wonky weird stuff. Were the ranges come in. Just like hydraulics. To calc working loads. But they have to leave a variable for shockloads.

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bubba22349
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Re: Belt routing.

Post #7 by bubba22349 » Sun May 27, 2018 10:15 am

:thanks:Yes this is what I taught back in my college days (1967-69), when I was studying to get my Aircraft A & P Licenses. The air frame course was very heavy on electrical theory.

That said though proper voltage is important more so is the amount of available amperage. I think you may have answered you own question if you have such a high load with those two fans you probably need to upgrade the Alternator. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

psa1sonic
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Re: Belt routing.

Post #8 by psa1sonic » Sun May 27, 2018 4:54 pm

Yes I did sorta. Sometimes you got to talk it out loud.

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bubba22349
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Re: Belt routing.

Post #9 by bubba22349 » Mon May 28, 2018 5:47 pm

:hmmm: Yes that's for sure! Recently I have been having quite a bit battery trouble (low life no mater with ether the regular lead acid or AGM types) on my wife's mobility scooter. In the past have used all the regular testing methods like load testing, hydrometer, and volt / ohm meter. Yet even though battery's would test good they really weren't in top condistion. So been studying about Conductance Testers that are suppose to be much better at determining the internal battery Condition. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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